Setting up a brand-new shower system

Setting up a brand-new shower system


Setting Up a New Shower Unit

A successful shower installation requires mindful planning and a lot of work. Most of the times, you will need to do 3 types of jobs: framing walls, installing the pipes, and finishing walls.

Preparation

Firstly, you should select the kind of shower that you wish to set up. It is necessary to ascertain whether the selected shower is capable of managing certain systems and can regulate a safe level of water through the boiler. Most shower units nowadays are designed to be flexible to different water pressures (such as saved warm water and cold mains).

It is likewise essential to consider the water pressure and the planning of the piping and drainage for the shower

Different Kinds of Shower Units

Push-on Mixer: The hose and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be connected to the bath tap based on your requirement, and the water temperature can be changed by means of the taps. Push-on mixers are low-cost and extremely easy to set up. However, although the tube connection is basic, it is quickly dislodged. Furthermore, it is inconvenient to adjust the temperature level.

Bath/ Shower Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this kind of shower are integrated with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature level can be changed through the bath taps. It is a really low-cost alternative and no additional pipes is involved. However, the bath/shower mixers likewise suffer from inconvenient temperature control alternatives.

Manual Mixer: The tube and spray of a manual mixer shower system are a part of the wall unit and the hot and cold water supplies are linked to a single valve The temperature and pressure of the water are managed through either one or a variety of knobs (in more expensive showers). Although temperature level control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more pricey than the previously mentioned mixers. They likewise require additional plumbing of hot and cold water supply pipes.

Thermostatic Mixer: The pipe and spray of this shower type belong of the wall system and the cold and hot water materials are linked to a single valve here too. It is complete with a built-in stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature level and to avoid it from becoming too hot. Among the greatest advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type consists don't forget to read this of hassle-free temperature level control. Nevertheless, it is the most costly of the various mixer options.

Power Shower: A power shower is a single system including an effective electrical pump that is capable of changing both the water pressure and temperature. This kind of shower can be fitted if there is water supply from a cold water tank and a warm water cylinder. A power shower makes the modification of both pressure and temperature level simple. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water warmed directly by the shower or where the water is provided by a mix boiler under mains pressure.

Electric Shower: An electric shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it warms the water electrically. It is very important to keep in mind that for this shower type to be set up, the mains pressure requires to be at least 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system permits the temperature level and pressure to be changed through a knob. Models with temperature level stabilisers are much better as they stay unaffected by other taps in other places in use within the home. A major downside of electrical showers is that the control knob just permits the alternative of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperatures at a higher pressure. This is bothersome in the winter season when the spray is often weak and the mains water is cooler. Nevertheless, this issue is tackled in some designs which are offered with a winter/summer setting.

Method

Depending on the type of shower you wish to set up, the shower head must either be fitted in order to prevent its contact with the water in the bath below or the base tray, or it needs to have a check valve.

Before beginning, it is a good idea to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to plan the pipe-work involved. In addition, the drain system to eliminate the waste water will require to be planned. Both positions of the cable route and the shower switch will likewise require to be thought about if a rapid or electric shower system is being installed.

Use the guideline guide provided with the shower system to fit the shower control.

Before fitting the pipes that will provide the water to the shower system, it is very important to cut off the water system. In order to secure the pipelines, they ought to be offered a waterproof covering and likewise fitted with isolating valves. The pipes can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the total look.

Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.

Connect the main shower control to the pipes that will be providing the water (This may need a female screw thread adapter).

Reconnect the water supply and test the pipes for any leakages, as some might need tightening.

If you are setting up an electrical shower, remember to switch off the electrical power supply before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have been made (there ought to be guidance within the user's manual), the power supply can be changed back on.

Adjusting Water Pressure to Suit Your Shower

The cold water reservoir can be lifted to a higher height (sometimes just 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wood support beneath it-- perhaps made up of struts and blockboards. If you pick this choice, the primary and distribution pipes will likewise have to be raised to meet the brand-new height of the reservoir.

Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is picked, it should be connected into the power supply in order to operate.

Piping and Drainage

It is best to use 15mm diameter supply pipes, and make the runs to the shower as brief and straight as possible so regarding preserve optimal pressure and minimise heat loss. Additionally, by minimising using elbows for pipe corners, you can decrease the resistance in the circulation of the water supply. You can accomplish this by bending the pipes instead.

Most Common Mistakes

# Breaching or ignoring local code restrictions.

# Using pipelines that are too small.

# Attaching copper to galvanized without utilizing a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.

# read this Not utilizing tape or pipe compound at threaded joints.

# Not leveling your fixtures when setting up them.

# Not setting up an air space filling for fixtures.

# Cutting supply stub outs too brief to install the shutoff valves onto after the completed wall is in place.

# Not appropriately lining up tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leak.)

# When turning the water back on in your home, always run the outside hose valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can cause problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.


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