Seasonal Dog Grooming: Managing Shedding in Spring and Fall
Shedding season sneaks up the same way dandelions do. You notice a few tufts on the sofa, then one good pat on your dog sends a cloud of undercoat into the air. In spring and again in fall, most breeds that carry a double coat shift gears. The undercoat, built either for insulation or ventilation depending on the season, loosens all at once. The result is a house that looks like it sprouted tumbleweeds and a dog that scratches a little more as dead hair tickles the skin.

Over the years, after grooming everything from Labradors to Malamutes, I’ve learned that seasonal coat care is about timing, the right tools, and consistency. Manage those well and shedding becomes a week or two of routine rather than a month of frustration. It also keeps skin healthy, reduces hotspots, and helps a dog regulate temperature when the weather swings. What follows isn’t a rote checklist. It’s the method I use in the salon and advise clients to follow at home, tailored for the strange in-between seasons when a warm day can turn to sleet by evening.
Why dogs shed more in spring and fallBiology drives the blowout. Double-coated dogs grow a dense, fine undercoat that traps air next to the skin. In winter, this layer is plush and protective. As daylight hours lengthen in spring, hormonal signals cue the hair cycle from telogen, or resting phase, into a growth and release sequence. The old winter undercoat loosens and sheds to make room for a lighter summer version. Come fall, the cycle reverses. The airy summer undercoat gives way to a thicker winter layer that can pad insulation by a surprising amount. I’ve brushed out two full grocery bags of hair from a single German Shepherd during a spring de-shed. That’s not an exaggeration, it’s a standard Tuesday.
Light exposure plays as large a role as temperature. Dogs that live mostly indoors under artificial light may shed at a lower level year-round with two peaks tied loosely to spring and fall. Outdoor dogs follow the calendar more closely. Spayed and neutered dogs can exhibit more constant shedding, which is normal, just more work. Breed matters too. Huskies, Shepherds, Akitas, Newfoundlands, and other northern breeds blow coat heavily. Boxers and Poodles don’t have the same undercoat, so they behave differently.
The grooming foundation: skin first, coat secondYou cannot brush your way out of skin problems. Dryness, dandruff, or inflammation will extend shedding season and make your dog miserable. Before you plan a brush-out schedule, check the skin in good light. Part the fur along the spine, behind the ears, and in the armpits. Healthy skin is pale pink or pigmented, not red or flaky. The slight musky odor of a dog is fine, but a sour or yeasty smell points to an overgrowth. If you notice excessive scratching, patches of hair loss, or hot spots, book your vet before a deep de-shed. Brushing over irritated skin creates micro-abrasions and delays healing.
Nutrition shows up in the coat. A balanced diet, usually AAFCO-compliant kibble or a well-formulated fresh plan, supports a normal hair cycle. I notice a difference when owners add omega-3 fatty acids derived from fish oil. In practice, 50 to 100 milligrams of EPA and DHA per kilogram of body weight per day can make coats glossier and skin less reactive. Always ask your veterinarian about dosing, especially if your dog takes medications that affect clotting. Hydration matters as well. Dogs that drink adequately shed more cleanly and develop fewer mats in the soft areas where skin folds or rubs.
Brushing strategy for spring and fallI’ve seen more mistakes from the wrong brush than from anything else. Those slick little grooming gloves look clever, but they barely move a heavy undercoat. The goal during a shed is to remove loose undercoat without scraping the skin or breaking the guard hairs that give the coat its look and weather resistance.
For double-coated breeds, I start with a rake that has long, rotating pins. This passes through guard hair and finds tufts of undercoat. Then I switch to a slicker brush with bent wires that lift and catch the fine stuff. On very thick coats, a deshedding tool with a stainless steel edge, used gently and in short strokes, can speed the process. Used too hard, it can thin the topcoat and cause a dull finish. For short-haired shedders like Beagles and Labs, a rubber curry or grooming block loosens hair efficiently with much less risk of irritation.
Work in sections. I start at the rump where the coat is densest, then up the back, under the collar line, behind the ears, down the sides, and finish with the tail and pants. The chest and armpits mat easily, so I lift the leg and brush outward in small motions. Pay attention to the belly where skin is thin. Keep your angle shallow, almost parallel to the skin, and watch for signs of discomfort. If your wrist is sore, you’re pressing too hard. A good brush-out feels like a massage to the dog. They’ll lean into it.
Frequency changes with the season. During peak shed, most double-coated dogs benefit from three to four thorough sessions a week, 15 to 30 minutes each, for two to three weeks. Outside of shedding season, once or twice a week holds the line. I’d rather see you brush a little and often than wage war on mats once a month. Dogs read our mood. Turn it into a routine after a walk when your dog is relaxed. Put a nonslip mat down so they can stand comfortably, and add short breaks for praise and a small treat.
Bath timing that actually helpsWater can be your ally or your enemy. A mistimed bath can tighten shedding fur into clumps you’ll have to cut out. If the coat is already loosening, a warm bath with a coat-safe shampoo followed by a thorough rinse and a dryer session will coax out a surprising amount of undercoat. If the coat is compacted with mats, water will make them smaller and more stubborn.
I schedule a de-shed bath right after the first serious brush-out of the season. Go in having already removed the worst tangles with a rake and slicker. Use lukewarm water and a modest amount of a mild, pH-balanced dog shampoo. Avoid human products, oatmeal if your dog has yeast issues, and heavy conditioners that weigh down the coat. Work shampoo down to the skin with your fingertips, not your nails. Rinse longer than you think you need, then rinse again. Product left in the coat causes flaking and itch.
Drying is half the job. Air drying traps moisture at the skin, especially in dense coats, and can invite hot spots. If you do not have a high-velocity dryer, a basic human dryer on cool or warm (never hot) will work with patience. Aim the airflow with the lie of the coat and watch loose fur fly. Keep the nozzle moving. I brush lightly while drying to capture hair as it lifts. Dogs usually tolerate the noise better than owners expect, especially if you introduce it gradually and feed a few kibbles while you work.
The long coats, the short coats, and the curly coatsNot all coats respond the same. A Golden Retriever’s feathering requires a lighter touch than a Husky’s dense trunk. A Labrador will shed small, needle-like hairs that seem to embed in clothing. A Doodle, if it carries more Poodle genetics, doesn’t blow coat the same way at all, but matting spikes with seasonal moisture and outdoor play.
For heavy double coats like Shepherds, Malamutes, Akitas, and Chows, a structured de-shed sequence makes life easier. Brush with a rake, then a slicker, bathe, then force-dry while brushing. Plan for 60 to 90 minutes for a large dog if the coat is in good condition. If you fall behind, you can add a second de-shed bath a week later and restore order.
For short double coats like Beagles, Pugs, and Labs, skip metal-edged tools in most cases. A rubber curry in circular motions before a bath, a quick slicker pass after drying, and a lint roller on your clothes will address most of what you see. Labs with thick “otter” tails and dense hips still benefit from an undercoat rake, but go light.
For curly and wavy coats in the Poodle and Doodle family, the undercoat behaves differently. Hair grows continuously rather than in seasonal shifts. Spring and fall still bring moisture, pollen, and static that trigger matting in friction areas. Daily combing with a stainless steel comb through armpits, behind ears, the collar line, and the base of the tail prevents solid mats that require shaving. A slicker brush fluffs, but only the comb tells the truth. If a comb won’t pass to the skin, keep working in small sections until it does, or book professional dog grooming services before the coat felts.
Don’t shave a double coat unless a vet tells you toI understand the temptation. The dog is panting, the house is coated in hair, and a short clip sounds like relief. The problem is that a double coat is an engineered system. Guard hairs deflect UV light and shed water, the undercoat traps air. When you shave both down to skin, you remove insulation and sun protection at once. In warm weather, dogs can overheat more quickly after a shave because the skin absorbs radiant heat. Regrowth often comes back uneven, sticky, or with a woolly texture known as post-clipping alopecia, especially in breeds like Huskies and Chows. This can take months to a year to normalize, and sometimes it never fully recovers.
There are exceptions. Severe matting that cannot be humanely brushed out, significant skin disease that requires medicated baths and access to the skin, or surgical prep. In these cases, a close clip is the kind option. But as a seasonal shedding strategy, shaving a double coat trades short-term relief for long-term issues. A good de-shed beats a shave every time.
The house, the car, and your sanityMost owners can keep up with the dog. It’s the environment that throws them. Carpets hold hair like Velcro, car cargo mats breed tumblefur, and static days make everything float. The trick is to attack it from three angles: prevention on the dog, capture in the house, and management in the car.
Prevention starts with regular brushing and well-timed baths, but small changes add up. Swap heavy cotton blankets for smooth, tightly woven throws on beds and sofas. Hair slides off rather than gripping. Launder weekly during peak shed. A quality vacuum with a brush roll that can be cleaned without tools saves time. Vacuum paths dogs travel every other day for two weeks, then resume your normal rhythm. On hard floors, a microfiber dust mop pulls hair to one place better than chasing it with a broom. In vehicles, use a fitted cargo liner or hammock that you can shake out daily. A pumice stone or rubber pet hair remover lifts stubborn hair from upholstery in minutes.
When a professional groomer is worth itEven diligent owners hit a wall during a heavy blowout. A professional can compress the process with high-velocity dryers and products designed to release undercoat faster. The biggest gain comes from technique and time. We move efficiently and know where mats hide. Most double-coated medium to large dogs need a professional de-shed every 6 to 10 weeks in normal seasons and at least once during each major shed. It’s not about pampering, it’s about coat function and comfort.
If you use a dog daycare in your routine, ask if they partner with a grooming team. Many dog daycare Mississauga and dog daycare Oakville facilities do, and a de-shed bath at the end of a playday means you pick up a clean, lighter dog. The same logic applies for travel. If you plan to use dog boarding Mississauga or dog boarding Oakville during spring break or Thanksgiving, book a de-shed service on pickup day. Your homecoming is tidier, and your dog is more comfortable.
Owners with cats should not be overlooked. Long-haired cats blow coat with the seasons, and hairballs spike in spring and fall. A quick pass with a fine-tooth comb a few times a week curbs the issue. If you rely on cat boarding Mississauga or cat boarding Oakville during a holiday, ask for a light brush-out add-on. It reduces stress and hair ingestion in a new environment.
Tools that earn their keepEveryone wants the magic brush. There isn’t one, but there are a few that pay back their cost quickly. The undercoat rake is the workhorse for heavy shedders. Look for one with long, rounded, rotating pins, not sharp edges. A medium slicker brush, ideally with a flexible head, reaches into dense areas without scraping. A rubber curry lifts hair on short coats and doubles as a bath brush. A stainless steel comb acts as your quality control tool, finding snags the brush glosses over. A high-velocity dryer is the biggest leap if you groom at home often. Entry-level units move enough air to push out loose coat safely. Always protect ears from direct airflow and keep a light hand.
Storage and cleaning matter. Brushes clog quickly during a blowout. Keep a comb or an old fork nearby to clear the pad https://www.instagram.com/happy_houndz_dog_daycare_/ every few passes. Rinse tools in warm soapy water after a heavy session, dry well, and they’ll last years. I label tools for multi-pet homes and wash between dogs to avoid spreading skin yeast or mites if a case pops up.
Health signals hidden in sheddingSeasonal shedding is normal. A sudden, dramatic shift outside those windows is not. Watch for symmetrical thinning along the flanks that persists, which may signal endocrine issues like hypothyroidism or Cushing’s. Excessive dandruff with a musty odor often points to yeast overgrowth. Patchy hair loss paired with itch suggests allergies, parasites, or bacterial infection. If brushing produces an unusual number of black specks and you notice your dog nibbling at the base of the tail, check for fleas. In any of these cases, a veterinarian comes first and grooming adapts to the treatment plan.
Behavior offers clues too. A dog that suddenly refuses brushing may hurt. Arthritis in the hips or lower back turns a routine slicker pass into a discomfort. Use a ramp for the grooming table or brush on a supportive mat on the floor. Keep sessions shorter and position your dog to reduce load on sore joints. Many older dogs do best with more frequent, lighter sessions rather than a single deep de-shed. A professional with experience in senior handling can help.
Climate, daylight, and indoor lifeOwners often ask why their dog still sheds like mad even though the dog lives in an air-conditioned condo. Light is the answer. Indoor lighting can flatten seasonality, but it won’t erase the cycle. Dogs also move between indoor HVAC and outdoor humidity several times a day, and that shift fluffs and loosens coat. In my practice in the GTA, we see variable spring weather. An early warm spell can start a shed, then a cold snap will slow it, leading to a drawn-out period of moderate shedding. Fall is more predictable, but indoor heating adds dryness that irritates skin. A simple room humidifier set to 40 to 50 percent reduces static and dandruff. Brush frequency rises a notch during those dry spells, not because hair grows faster, but because breakage and itch increase.
Daycare and boarding as grooming alliesRoutine helps. Dogs that play regularly at a trustworthy doggy daycare tend to maintain a healthier skin and coat simply because movement circulates oils and the environment encourages more shedding where it’s easier to clean up. If you use dog day care as part of your weekly schedule, coordinate with the staff so your dog gets a quick brush-out during peak shed weeks. Some dog daycare Mississauga and dog daycare Oakville providers offer add-on dog grooming services, from simple brush-outs to full de-shed packages. This light touch between full grooms prevents compaction under a collar or harness.
For travel, boarding can be timed with grooming for maximum impact. Facilities that offer pet boarding service often schedule baths close to pickup so dogs go home clean. If you book pet boarding Mississauga during spring or fall, ask for a de-shed bath on the final day. The same applies if you’re choosing between dog boarding Mississauga and dog boarding Oakville. A well-timed service cuts the hair load in your car and your home. Cat owners can do the same with cat boarding. A gentle brush before pickup reduces hairballs the first week home.
A seasonal routine that worksThink of shedding management as a micro-season for your household. Two to three weeks in spring and again in fall, you adjust your rhythm. The investment pays off the rest of the year when breezes through your house don’t send fur sprites dancing across the hallway.
Here is a practical cadence I give most clients during peak shed weeks:
Brush every other day with the right tool for the coat, focusing on friction zones first, then the back and pants. Schedule one de-shed bath after the first week of brushing, followed by thorough drying and another light brush. Vacuum high-traffic dog paths every two days, hard floors with a microfiber dust mop in between. Add omega-3s under veterinary guidance and keep water bowls fresh and full. Use smooth throws on dog-resting areas and launder weekly to keep hair from cycling back into the air.Adjust this up or down. A Corgi may need a little more help behind the ears and pants. A Lab may respond best to rubber curry sessions in the yard where the wind can carry hair away and birds can take it for nesting. A senior Husky might prefer two shorter brush-outs per day for ten minutes each rather than one long session. The goal is consistency, not heroics.
Small details that separate a good groom from a great oneTechnique adds polish. Mist the coat lightly with a conditioning spray before a deep brush-out. Dry hair breaks and creates frizz that traps more hair later. Keep your brush angle shallow and use your non-dominant hand to feel the skin move as you brush. If the skin tent lifts, your pressure is too hard. Finish with a comb down the ruff, pants, and behind the ears to confirm you reached the skin everywhere. Trim nails, because long nails change posture and balance, which makes grooming less comfortable and invites fidgeting. Clean ears after a bath with a vet-approved solution, not cotton swabs, and dry the ear leather fully to avoid yeast blooms during humid swings.
I keep a mat splitter only as a last resort for small, tight tangles behind the ears and under the collar. Used correctly, it saves coat without a full shave. Used carelessly, it nicks skin. If a mat is bigger than a lime or sits in a sensitive area like the armpit, I’d rather clip it out than tug. Comfort first.
When to stop and when to keep goingOver-grooming during a shed is as real as under-grooming. If you reach a point where strokes produce only a few hairs per pass and the skin looks a little pink, call it. The remaining hair will release over the next day or two. Give the skin a rest. A cooling spritz with aloe and witch hazel (dog-safe, alcohol-free) can calm post-groom warmth. If you brush and the pad fills on every stroke for more than a week straight without slowing, reassess. Either the tools are wrong, or the coat is compounding. A professional session will reset the cycle.
Final thought from the grooming tableSeasonal shedding is one of those realities you make peace with when you share your home with a dog. The trade feels fair when your dog lounges more comfortably on warm afternoons, pants less on fall hikes, and your hands come away with a silky glide instead of a fistful of loose fluff. The key is to work with the biology, not against it. Build a plan around your dog’s coat type, use tools that suit the job, and time your baths to help the hair let go. Lean on dog grooming when the coat laughs at your brush, and coordinate with dog daycare or pet boarding dog day care centre service providers in Mississauga and Oakville to keep momentum.
I’ve watched birds carry off undercoat from my grooming yard to line their nests. It’s a nice reminder that even the chaos of a spring blowout has a place. With a little structure and some practice, your house, your dog, and your schedule can all come through shedding season in good shape.
Happy Houndz Dog Daycare & Boarding — NAP (Mississauga, Ontario)
Name: Happy Houndz Dog Daycare & Boarding
Address: Unit#1 - 600 Orwell Street, Mississauga, Ontario, L5A 3R9, Canada
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Happy Houndz Daycare & Boarding is a local pet care center serving Mississauga, Ontario.
Looking for dog daycare in Mississauga? Happy Houndz provides daycare and overnight boarding for dogs.
For structured play and socialization, contact Happy Houndz Dog Daycare & Boarding at (905) 625-7753 and get helpful answers.
Pet parents can reach Happy Houndz by email at info@happyhoundz.ca for assessment bookings.
Visit Happy Houndz Dog Daycare & Boarding at Unit#1 - 600 Orwell Street in Mississauga for dog daycare in a quality-driven facility.
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Happy Houndz supports busy pet parents across Mississauga with daycare that’s quality-driven.
To learn more about pricing, visit https://happyhoundz.ca/ and explore boarding options for your pet.
Popular Questions About Happy Houndz Dog Daycare & Boarding
1) Where is Happy Houndz Dog Daycare & Boarding located?
Happy Houndz is located at Unit#1 - 600 Orwell Street, Mississauga, Ontario, L5A 3R9, Canada.
2) What services does Happy Houndz offer?
Happy Houndz offers dog daycare, dog & cat boarding, and grooming (plus convenient add-ons like shuttle service).
3) What are the weekday daycare hours?
Weekday daycare is listed as Monday–Friday, 7:30 AM–6:30 PM. Weekend hours are [Not listed – please confirm].
4) Do you offer boarding for cats as well as dogs?
Yes — Happy Houndz provides boarding for both dogs and cats.
5) Do you require an assessment for new daycare or boarding pets?
Happy Houndz references an assessment process for new dogs before joining daycare/boarding. Contact them for scheduling details.
6) Is there an outdoor play area for daycare dogs?
Happy Houndz highlights an outdoor play yard as part of their daycare environment.
7) How do I book or contact Happy Houndz?
You can call (905) 625-7753 or email info@happyhoundz.ca. You can also visit https://happyhoundz.ca/ for info and booking options.
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Landmarks Near Mississauga, Ontario
1) Square One Shopping Centre — Map
2) Celebration Square — Map
3) Port Credit — Map
4) Kariya Park — Map
5) Riverwood Conservancy — Map
6) Jack Darling Memorial Park — Map
7) Rattray Marsh Conservation Area — Map
8) Lakefront Promenade Park — Map
9) Toronto Pearson International Airport — Map
10) University of Toronto Mississauga (UTM) — Map
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