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Some time ago over 8 months I was thinking about what I can build. I thought about the lot of robots but a lot of them were posted on the internet. And i thought about making a drone completly by myself, including flight controller, pilot, program and frame design. This is by far the longest build i have made, it takes a lot of time and effort to make it but finaly after over 8 months it's ready and i am here to share it with you as completly open source project. I just started my facebook fanpage! If you want to see what I am making, be up to date with my projects or need some help feel free to like it, thanks! Here is link to video if you use an app. This project is not the simple one. You need some basic knwoledge of arduino programming, PCB's and electronics to make it. If you haven'y done anything like that before I advise you to start with something simpler like:. Arduino sensitive robot. DIY bike tachometer speedometer. Very Simple Robot for Beginners. I am participate in contests right here on instructables. In one of them microcontroller contest there is macbook air as a grand prize. It could help me with calibrating PID for my drone because right now I haven't any laptop that I can go outside with so there is no way to calibrate it perfectly. I am also working on an app with my friend we want to publish it before holidays. We have a very very good idea for it and it can be very popular, I can't tell you what is it I can just tell you name of it - Socialize. We are finishing android version of this app. As you may know to make an iphone app you need t have apple computer. We haven't one and we haven't money for it : So it will also help me with developing IOS version of our map that I will inform you about shortly. If you want to vote for my project you can do it by clicking vote! Thanks everyone! For some reasons and because of my friend lukmar I named my drone Ludwik. And Ludwik took part in International robotic tournament in Rybnik in Poland and it won first place in freestyle category! I even print for this contest like this label with Ludwik dron : Above is the photo from this contest. You can ask why do you wrote your own program for it? Why do you made custom 3D printed frame see next steps to see why I failed with it? And additionaly custom pilot and PCB's. Basically because I can : I like making things on my own and learning how they works. Thanks to this type of thinking I learned a lot about quadcopters and how they works. The biggest problems I had with code for stabilizing it, it wasn't hard to write it but very hard to adjust and to get rid off some bugs. It's still not perfect but much closer to it and it works really good so far. For a long time my PID regulator was adjusted very bad but every day I was closer to make it perfect. While this adjusting I broke my 3D printed frame 4 times :. At the beggining I thought that it can be very usefull to make 3d printed frame. It was really possible that I will broke it at least few times I was right : but after 7 broken parts I decided to buy one, mainly because it is much stronger and rigid. I broke this frame during first flight with it :. Main reason is money. And the good thing about it is that I can create as many channels as I want :. Because of my own code and my own pilot I have to make PCB's. I made 3 of them. The first one is power distributor for motors, second one is pilot and third one is of course flight controller. All of them use through hole componnents to make it easier to solder. In my final version I am not using power distribution board because my frame already have that. I want to write this quick story of building of this drone, if you don't wnat to read it just go to next step. I want to warn you that english is not my mother language and it's really common that there will be some mistakes, sorry for that. I started building it in june Right now when I writing this it's March so it took me 9 months to make it. Mainly because of bad weather, rain, snow, windy days. The first thing that I bought was motors, ESC's and battery from amazon. There is no amazon : So I asked my uncle to buy me those parts thanks uncle. Then I designed my 3D printed frame and print out everything. Then I started prototyping I mount aruino UNO with a breadboard on my frame connect MPU this is gyroscope and accelerometer and the best thing my 'controller' : which was breadboard with potentiometer connected with 5 meters long cables to arduino uno on my quadcopter :D It looked pretty funny and it wasn't very safe but it gave my posibility to test my drone fast without dealing with radio yet. I also create some kind of holder for my drone to test it at home without the possibility of destroying something including me by drone. I also made some odd experiments with this drone, fortunately, my dad takes a few photos of it so you can see it above : thanks dad. During those experiments, I destroyed 2 lipo batteries to be honest I don't know when and how. By testing it and flying in bad conditions or with bugs in my code I broke 3d printed frame 7 times. After 9 months of building, breaking, experimenting it is finally ready. But it's not a final version I still want to make some improvements, and I hope that you the makers will help me in it. I share all of those as open source so you can modify it, and do whatever you want not for commercial use remember to mention about my project somewhere. For this project we need a lot of parts, because it is actually a little bit complicated. Here is complete list with links to parts that I bought from different suppliers:. The first thing to do was protyping, to check how everything works and if circuits are good connected. I screwed up arduino UNO to drone frame and mounted mpu in breadboard which was fixed to frame with double sided tape. At this point I created the world's first wire drone : After testing, in my wooden frame, outdoor tests and some changes in connections design I created eagle schematic and then PCB. Above you can see some photos of my drone with a lot of cables on the top. On one of those photos you can see red cable with black tape on it, guess what is this : it's some kind of kill switch which just cut off power for arduino board. This frame for testing a drone is made out of wood just to hold it in place and let it rotate on one axis, thats all. This code isn't as hard as you can think. It just use 3 PID algorithms for stabilizng it in 3 axis x, y, z also cold pitch, yaw and roll , code for getting angles from mpu's DMP digital motion processing , and also handle radio receiving and some basic math to calculate data received by radio. It stabilize itself at times a second Hz that's enaugh for this drone. There are a lot of great explonations of how PID works, and because I not a good teatcher I woldn't try to explain how it works. I use those values for PID bcause after lot's of test I find them best one, but they still can be better, Kd is much to big. I am not the PID tune expert and I have never done it on any other drone then this. For different motors, propellers, frame this value can be different. If you will find better one send them to me and I will test it on my drone. This code is just copied from MPU library. I wanted to write my own, faster library for it but I couldn't find any good datasheet of it and I was to lazy : If there is ready library which works fine but could be faster why not to use it? Here are just few lines to receive array of 8 bit numbers from pilot and convert it to throttle and rotation on x, y and z axis. You can also add more values and using them turn on lights on drone or anything you like. Code for pilot is straight forward. Just reads joystick values and send them over NRF24L01 that's all, nothing complicated. Radio speed is reduced to increase range. Right there you can find all files including. And some photos of how I made them. Traces are very small so the board is not so easy to make. There are not a lot to write about so just enjoy the photos and files :. How to make PCB's. I also made a power distribution board and it was used on 3D printed version of my drone, but right now I am not using it since frame that I bought have power distribution board build in to the frame. Quick story of pilot. The first version of it was potentiometer on a breadboard as I mentioned earlier. It was connected to drone with 5 meters long cables. Then I build real wireless pilot on breadboard with arduino pro mini, two joysticks and battery. Work's great but this mess with cables are so bad. And thats the final version, max size of PCB in free eagle version to make it more handy. Looks pretty good, works perfectly. I added right there 2 switches for eventual light switching or maybe even some kind of thrower : Schematic, PCB and program for it you can find in previous steps. This is my 3D printed frame for my drone it's bad, don't print it. I just put it right there to show you how I made it, how it looks like and how you shouldn't design a frame for a drone. Printing time all parts for this frame is about 13 hours. I broke 7 part of it and after that I decided to give up at this point with this frame and buy one. I prefered to focus on my program and then when I finish it completly I will design comletly new frame, that will be stronger and smaller this one is actually a little to big. To design all of those parts I used fusion in my opinion the best 3D designing software. You can check it out here. I also recommend you to watch fusion's youtube channel there are a lot of great tutorials, updates and usefull tips. Because some parts that were 3D printed are usefull I put. There is just antena holder for flight controller you need to drill new hole in PCB just don't drill through traces and holder for PCB of flight controller. I put a small like sponge under this holder to limit vibrations and srcew it down with M3 screws. There are some photos and quick explonation of how to assemble all parts of drone. First of all you have to assemble the frame, there are 4 arms and 2 main plates it's very simple. After that you can mount your brushless motor on frame. Use 4 short screws to mount them on the arms screws can't be too long because they can damage colis of the motor. Then you can solder ESC to the motor. Remember that left front motor and rear right must be soldered in the same way. Right front and rear left must be connected in the same way but you have to swap 2 phases of motor. I mount ESC to frame with zip tie. Remember to tight propellers very strongly, it is very usefull to use tiny screwdriver for it. I spent most time of making it on this stage. It was endless code changing, testing, code changing testing and so on. Above you can see some photos of it. One time when I test stabilization and I added piece of code to decrement throttle continously to make it landing softly after radio disconnection right now I know that it is impossible without barometer or GPS. I forgot to add in this code protection at some level to don't let the number infinitly down. And what happens when number go infinitly down? At some point in to goes from max minus to max plus and then my drone has turned their motors with full throttle it goes up with this frame hit my door and wall and fall. I was on the opposit side. It was so close to hit me. And that's the reason that I wear ski helmet during rest of tests :. There were a lot of problems during this build some of them because of my errors some of them no. One time I forgot to add minus on the y axis and my drone instead of stabilize itself, was doing exactly opposite thing. But after a lot of troubles, I achieved first succesful flight, 10 perfect seonds of flying : just up and down but it was stable and that's what I wanted to have. Above you can see video from one of the firsts flights with 3D printed frame and this was the first time that I thought that maybe it will finaly work. And then winter came it was snowing, it was cold and wet. I spend most time at home doing other things than drone. I was skiing and drone was waiting for better weather. At February I started working on it again I changed a program a little bit and do more test. It was better and better every test. And after some time I achieved this what you can see right now. It's not perfect but it's very good and the most important thing it's mine! There are still things to do to make it better, the most important one is calibrating PID for roll and pitch but there is no way for me to do it right now, I haven't laptop, but I need one to go outside with it and with drone and calibrate it by changing PID constants slightly, uploading program, testing and repeat as long as it will hover perfectly. Because I haven't a laptop I can't do this :. If you like my project and want to help me, vote for me in contests in microcontroller contest the prize is macbook air which could help my with fine-tuning this project. So as I said this is the not final version. I just want to go for some other builds and learning new things. But if you want you can help me with this project, we can work together on it to make the best, the simplest arduino drone that anyone can make. If you have build my project send me some photos of it on ma mail nikodem. If you have any questions just ask in the comments, on my mail or on my new facebook fanpage! I am here to help you. You can also write what you think about this project or how to improve it. By Nikus Visit My Site! More by the author:. About: Hi, my name is Nikodem Bartnik. I'm 19 years old. I am into designing, making, programming and electronics. In the future, I want to start a company and make my own products. As for now, you can find my work o… More About Nikus ». Here is link to video if you use an app Info for begginers: This project is not the simple one. If you haven'y done anything like that before I advise you to start with something simpler like: Arduino sensitive robot DIY bike tachometer speedometer Very Simple Robot for Beginners But if you really want to make it, you should try, I am always here to help you. My apel to you! Code The biggest problems I had with code for stabilizing it, it wasn't hard to write it but very hard to adjust and to get rid off some bugs. While this adjusting I broke my 3D printed frame 4 times : Something about 3D printed frame At the beggining I thought that it can be very usefull to make 3d printed frame. I broke this frame during first flight with it : Pilot Main reason is money. I hope you enjoy this quick story. Right now we can start building a drone :D. Here is complete list with links to parts that I bought from different suppliers: Motors - I just bought the cheapest one, that works easily for this kind of drone. ESC's - depends on motors that you choose max current of ESC should be a little bit bigger than max current of motor. It must have BEC because the flight controller is powered by it. We will also 4 of them. Battery - 3S Make sure that it can deliver enough current. Frame - at the beginning it was 3D printed and in the feature, it will be, but for now I used very popular F frame. LiPo charger - you must charge lipo batteries with a special charger with a balancer. Remember to choose right power plug Propellers - can be different but this one works the best. I advise you to buy some more, they are easy to break. They need to have a hole not thread. Flight controller This code isn't as hard as you can think. NRF24L01 Here are just few lines to receive array of 8 bit numbers from pilot and convert it to throttle and rotation on x, y and z axis. Pilot Code for pilot is straight forward. Both codes you can find below. There are not a lot to write about so just enjoy the photos and files : How to make PCB's I also made a power distribution board and it was used on 3D printed version of my drone, but right now I am not using it since frame that I bought have power distribution board build in to the frame. I also broke down 2 Li-Po batteries :. Attachments arm3. Download View in 3D. Attachments framedesign. Because I haven't a laptop I can't do this : And here is my request to you If you like my project and want to help me, vote for me in contests in microcontroller contest the prize is macbook air which could help my with fine-tuning this project. Thanks for reading don't forget to follow me on instructables, on facebook and on youtube. Have a nice day everyone!

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