Rough Shower
🛑 ALL INFORMATION CLICK HERE 👈🏻👈🏻👈🏻
Rough Shower
If you’re installing a new shower, you’ll have to rough in the drain. A rough-in is the initial phase of installation, where you lay pipes and fittings – but don’t yet install the final drain.
In most cases, your shower drain rough-in should occur before laying the concrete slab or the sub floor. However, if you’re laying fittings for a shower drain in an existing house, you’ll have a lot more work on your hands.
However, in most cases, all you’ll need to rough in your shower drain is a few tools and pipe.
Roughing in a shower drain means laying the pipes, p-trap, and connectors to connect to your eventual shower drain. This must be done before installing the shower itself.
Ideally, if you have a concrete slab, you’ll also want to install it before the concrete slab.
This article covers how to rough in a shower drain in most homes.
Things you’ll need (pipes and fittings in 2” format):
Pipe lengths depend on the distance of your shower from the main sewer. However, in most bathrooms, you’ll already have run the main sewer relatively close for the toilet, and you will connect the shower drain to that.
Use a measuring tape and measure the distance between the drain and the main sewer. If you’re using a shower plate, you’ll want to lay that in place and mark the exact location of the drain. Here, installing pegs in the floor is a good idea if you’re working with a foundation.
If you have a plywood underfloor and you’re laying the plumbing in the crawlspace, you’ll want to lay the plywood and mark it with a pen or marker. Then, drill out the hole where the drain should be.
Here, a drill with a 2” forex or spade bit and a jigsaw are usually the easiest ways to do so. Then, mark the subfloor underneath. You’ll have to remove the plywood to continue the installation.
If you’re laying a drain in a cement or tile floor, it should be at the lowest part in the shower floor. It doesn’t matter how close to the wall the drain is.
However, if you have a linear drain, it should be no more than 3-5″ from the wall. That’s because a linear drain has to clamp to the wall.
Then, fit an upright pipe into the P-trap and water seal pipe and place it over the drain spot. Fix it in place with a stake or a board across the joists. Then install the T on this. Fix it in place where it should be in the installed shower or have someone hold it.
Then, measure from the T to the sewer. Depending on where the shower is, that will either be down through the wall, directly to the sewage pipe laid under the home, or horizontally across the floor.
The P-trap should be a minimum of 4” from the shower drain and a maximum of 5 feet. Other than that, there are no standard shower drain rough in dimensions. They will always depend on where your plumbing is.
However, your shower cabin or panel may come with a diagram of recommended dimensions, which you can refer to.
Measure from the top of the T you installed. This should be a minimum of 4” from the end of the trap weir and no more than 8 feet from the weir.
Then, measure a line to the vent branch. If you haven’t roughed this in yet, you should decide where it should go. Alternatively, you could immediately vent the shower outdoors or directly to the vent stack.
The vent pipe must be a minimum of 45 degrees from horizontal. This prevents water buildup so that the vent remains dry.
Measure and cut the pipe for the shower drain and the shower vent. Here, you should use a measuring tape and a marker to mark out lengths.
Then, use a hacksaw or a pipe cutter to cut your lengths. Additionally, you’ll want to use a Stanley knife or sandpaper to remove any sharp edges.
Then, lay everything out with the connector fittings to make sure you have the right lengths.
Plot the path of your pipes through the wall and the floor. If they have to move through studs or joists, you’ll want to drill them.
Here, the hole should never be more than 25% of the stud’s width. If it is, you’ll have to reinforce the stud with a second board of the same size.
Additionally, you should keep holes to the center of the stud or joist and aligned with the angle of the pipe.
E.g., if you’re angling a vent pipe up at 45 degrees, the holes should be angled that way.
Ideally, you should use a Forstner or spade bit for drilling.
Lay your plumbing into the space and fit everything together. However, you shouldn’t glue it yet. Make sure everything reaches where you need it to be.
Then, cut your cent pipe and attach it to the vent branch or vent stack. Here, you normally want to use an angled T for the connection. Your waste pipe should drop by a quarter of an inch per foot .
Lay the waste pipe to the nearest soil pipe. If you already have an existing drain, you’ll want to tap into that instead.
Similarly, you likely want to join the shower and sink drains into the toilet soil pipe. This connection should always be downstream from the toilet vent.
In this case, it should be a minimum of four inches away from the toilet vent.
Fit your boss connector into the soil pipe. Here, it’s a great idea to get a boss cap with more access points than you need. You can cap the others off.
This allows you to access and flush the system if you have clogs. Use a boss or a strap on boss.
A boss connector requires that you cut the soil pipe and glue the whole thing back together. A strap on boss allows you to drill a hole into the side of the soil pipe, fit the boss, and strap it on around the soil pipe. Both options require pipe cement.
Then, make sure your pipes connect to the boss.
Once you’re certain of drain placement, you can glue everything together. Make sure you wear gloves and carefully glue the outside of the pipe and the inside of the fitting at each connection.
If you’re still working with an uncovered floor or there will still be dust and sawdust, cap the drainpipe sticking up out of the floor.
If you’re putting a shower into a room with an already laid floor, you’ll have a lot more work ahead of you. For example, if you’re trying to figure out how to rough in a basement shower drain or some other drain without access below.
Unfortunately, if you’re roughing in a shower drain in a concrete floor, the only solution here is to break your concrete, install the drain underneath, and then re-fill the floor. Here, there are a few important steps:
If you’re roughing in a shower drain, you want to install a drain pipe extending above the floor. That’s especially true if you have a subfloor in now or if you still have to install the subfloor and the floor.
In most cases, it’s a good idea to go up about a foot and a half from the floor. Then, when you go to install your shower, you can cut it to size based on the subfloor.
For example, if you’re installing a shower drain for tile, your drain needs to be about ¼ of an inch above the subfloor. However, you still want the drain itself to fit in flush with the floor – so the drain pipe can’t be too high.
Therefore, you shouldn’t cut it until the tiles are in place.
Roughing in a shower drain is not easy. Chances are, you still have questions. These answers should help.
Shower pants should usually be at least 3/8ths of an inch wider and 3/16 th of an inch deeper than the shower floor. Therefore, to know the depth to rough in the shower pan, you’ll have to know the depth of the shower floor.
Yes. If you don’t have a trap installed on your shower, sewer gasses will cause your shower to smell. They might also cause blockages and eventual overflow in the drain.
Use a 4” or larger pipe to create a gap between the drain pipe and the space being filled with concrete. Then, use silicone to adhere the pipe to the floor.
If you’re laying a full new floor, you’ll want to lay rebar and then pour the concrete as normal.
If you’re filling a broken hole, you’ll want to lay rebar in the middle of the concrete hole. Then, you can add primer to the old concrete and pour the new concrete in.
A p-trap can be a maximum of 5 feet from the shower drain. However, the closer the better.
In this case it can be as close as 4 inches. This ensures that the trap actually prevents gas and smell from rising back up through the sewer.
The minimum size for a shower drain is 2”. Older homes use 1 ½ inch pipes. However, all new installations are required to use 2” pipe.
You can buy a pipe cap with a rubber seal to permanently seal your old shower drain. Install this by fitting it over the old drain, level with the floor.
Some caps include a wingnut tightening system. Others feature an expanding rubber ring. Therefore, you should follow the directions on the package.
Yes. Your shower vent prevents air from building up in the drain. Air buildup will actually cause blockages and may cause overflowing drains.
It’s also required to have a vent in your drain. Here, you can connect the vent directly to the weir via a T-fitting that branches to the main drain and the vent just behind the weir.
Ideally, you should rough in the shower drain before laying a concrete floor. Your shower drain should also go in before the sub-floor where possible.
However, if that hasn’t happened, you’ll have to take the old floor up to access underneath. When that happens, it’s important to be careful not to damage the foundation or the concrete slab.
Hopefully this guide helped you learn how to rough in a shower drain i n your home. Good luck with the work.
A gap between a brick wall and the windows can allow outside air and moisture to get inside, resulting in damage and loss of heat or cooled air.
Thankfully, you can seal this gap on your own...
Tile Redi is one of the most popular brands of tile-ready shower pans. They’re advertised as a quick and easy solution for constructing or upgrading a shower. But do they live up to expectations,...
Access to this page has been denied because we believe you are using automation tools to browse the website.
This may happen as a result of the following:
Please make sure that Javascript and cookies are enabled on your browser and that you are not blocking them from loading.
Reference ID: #ea17d924-3a65-11ed-b840-7a5252655954
Home
Bathroom
Rough-In Valves
Shower Rough-In Valves
Home
Bathroom
Rough-In Valves
Shower Rough-In Valves
Brass (11) Metal (1) Solid Brass (1)
Electronic (6) Pressure Balance (3) Shower Only Rough-In (1) Single Function (1)
Controller (7) Rough-In Valve (14) Rough-in Valves (28)
M-pact (1) Multichoice (8) Positemp (2) Pressure Balance (6)
1.6 Gallons Per Minute (1) 14 GPM (1) 5 Gallons Per Minute (2) 9 GPM (1)
Shower Only Faucet (5) Shower Only Trim (3) Tub & Shower Faucet (1)
1 Hole (2) Shower Only Rough-In (31) Tub and Shower Rough-In (3)
Relevancy Price - Low to High Price - High to Low
Copyright © 2007 - 2022 · PlumbersStock
Terms of Use
·
All Categories
If you are installing a standalone shower unit with a showerhead (and no tub faucet), then you will need to make sure you get a matching shower rough-in , which will control the hot and cold flow of water.
We have all kinds of rough-in valves , so if you need something other than shower rough-ins, search around. We have all the best bathroom products here at PlumbersStock. If you are looking for high-quality shower rough-in valves, you are certainly in the right place! You may be looking for a tub/shower rough-ins , tub rough-ins , or a bidet rough-ins . Follow the appropriate link if that is the case.
Choosing a rough-in valve for your shower can be difficult, but, with our help, you shouldn’t have any problems at all. Here are just a few things you should keep in mind when choosing your shower only rough-in valve:
Thank you for visiting PlumbersStock.com! If you have any trouble finding shower rough-in valves for your unit, contact our customer support, and save while you update your bathing solution. We carry:
By Tom Dennis Updated December 29, 2018
The rough-in specifications have to do with the placement and sizes of the plumbing pipes, fixtures and faucets that are installed first; these are the plumbing parts that get covered up and you normally can’t see after completion. Some specs like the placement of the shower faucet and shower head can be adjusted according to the desires of the homeowner. Other specs, like the size of the pipes and the location of the drain, must be installed as to manufacturer’s and code specifications.
If placing the faucet in a combination tub and shower unit the faucet is generally placed low, 12 to 18 inches above the rim of the bath tub. The tub spout will generally be located 4 inches above the rim of the tub. In a shower only unit, the faucet is placed higher at 48 inches off the floor. The shower head normally is located 72 to 80 inches above the finished floor. If the homeowner prefers an adjustment in heights, then the shower head can be roughed-in higher or lower. The valve, spout and shower head should be centered side to side in the interior of the shower.
Nearly all tub and shower faucets require a one-half inch diameter water supply pipe on both the hot and cold supplies. If using PEX pipe, an extremely flexible, easy to use and popular type of plastic pipe, you should note a caution on sizing. PEX has a smaller interior diameter than copper pipe, so if the shower is on the second floor, it would be prudent to install three-quarter inch PEX to a point near the shower before reducing to one-half inch and making the connection to the faucet. This larger diameter will help provide adequate water flow at greater distances from the water source.
If the shower unit is being installed where there will be access underneath after the shower unit is in place, such as over a basement with an open ceiling or a crawlspace, then the shower unit can be installed in place and the drain connected afterward. If the shower unit will be set in a spot without underneath access, such as in a concrete floor or an upper floor with a finished ceiling that won't be opened, then the drain will need to roughed-in before setting the unit in place. There are many different designs of showers. To determine the rough-in specs for a shower drain it is necessary to check the manufacturer's installation instructions for that particular unit.
Tub and shower combinations will require at least a 1 1/2-inch-diameter drain pipe and P-trap. A 2-inch drain pipe is better. Shower only units require a 2-inch drain and P-trap. The drain requires a horizontal drop or angle of fall of one-quarter inch per linear foot. A vent pipe will need to be installed and connected to the drain pipe as well.
Tom Dennis has been writing technical as well as faith-related articles and curriculum since 2008. He has been a licensed plumber for more than 30 years with much experience in home projects. Dennis holds a Master of Religious Education degree from Grand Rapids Theological Seminary.
Nude Klarisa Hot Pictures
Hot Sexy Beautiful
Gloryhole 4k