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With the emergence of the sun, in the religious town of Rishikesh and Haridwar, hundreds of sadhus emerge from their ashrams and huts to start their day by a taking in the holy waters of cold gushing Ganga. The average life of a sadhu starts with that and ends with that, from the perspective of normal people. But many of the sadhus here in Haridwar, lead a completely different lifestyle. It is fascinating to see how some of these sadhus have no interest in meeting the tourists, pouring in everyday. They only entertain people who wish to seek the truth and learn about the ancient culture and traditions. Rishikesh, this little North Indian town, which is the gateway to the Himalayas and the home to the most sacred river, The Ganga, has much more to offer than just a myriad of virtually unknown sadhus and saints in nondescript kuttias cottages. They have endless stories to tell about their spiritual journey, their plight and ideals of freedom while puffing a joint of chillum. Posted by admin. Leave a comment.
One week in the foothills of the Himalayas
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Rishikesh is many things to many people. It is where the Ganges is, in some sense, the purest—having just slowed its path from the meltwaters of the Gangotri. To Hindus, Rishikesh is a site of pilgrimage. And to some, like me, it is just a small town in the Himalayan foothills where one goes to escape the mindless buzz of the city, to smoke weed, while emphatically not looking to find oneself. He and his partner, fellow Beat poet Peter Orlovsky set out via sea, and by the time they reached Bombay, all they had was a dollar between them. And when they visited Rishikesh, it truly was a small, unknown town. Today, though, its small-town infrastructure can barely contain its density of ashrams and yoga centers. Ever since The Beatles visited to learn Transcendental Meditation in , it has been marketed as a spiritual sanctuary. To me, it is just a small town in the Himalayan foothills where one goes to emphatically not look to find oneself. But his diaries, rather than the sheer amount of time he spent here, prove otherwise. He came looking for a level of genuineness that he thought American society lacked at the time. When I first moved to Bombay as a copywriter at an ad agency, the city itself was what drove me: In its quirky street-corner bookshops, heritage buildings and destitution, I found solace and motivation in equal measure. Yet, that genuineness is something I think Indian society—and perhaps societies the world over—lack in the age of social media, rising nationalism and faux individualism. The type one revisits periodically to see if anything has changed—either I or it. We need to take stands. Posters of the incumbent Hindu nationalist party, Bharatiya Janata Party or BJP , were plastered on walls, telephone poles and on other posters. When I was there, they were favored to win—by a long shot. Is there even an alternative? While Ginsberg snaked his way through the Indian rail lines, drinking sweet, milky tea, stopping in opium dens in Delhi and hanging out with Hungryalist poets in Calcutta, he made sporadic but detailed notes about everything from his meals to his inability to digest them. Yet, Rishikesh only appears thrice in India Diaries—once in poetry, and twice in a letter to Kerouac. Afternoon walk down to sand and rock point of Ganges—white glittering sand. A few orange robes spread on rocks to dry. My mind went wild at this glimpse of information: Ginsberg and I were both in Rishikesh in March. Both on the other side of the river. Was he in Ganga Vatika? Where in Swarg Ashram? I scoured books and internet forums, hoping to find specific answers, but found none that was verifiable. By not knowing, possibilities scattered themselves everywhere. Maybe he walked the length of the Ram Jhula and Laxman Jhula. Maybe he saw the Ganga Aarti, a prayer to the river and Goddess Ganga. As disappointed as I am by the outcome of this election, I find myself taking solace in those few constants which make India, India. Akanksha Singh. Akanksha Singh is a travel writer and culture journalist based in Bombay, India. Related Content.
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