Retinol: How It Repairs Everything From Acne To Wrinkles

Retinol, like many vitamins, has different names. For example, vitamin C is also known as ascorbic acid, and niacinamide is a type of vitamin B3. Retinol is one of the most common forms of vitamin A. It can help to stimulate cell turnover as well as collagen production.

However, the term retinol has become a less-than-accurate catch-all for vitamin A-derived ingredients in cosmetics. Retinol is actually one of several types of retinoids. Retinoids is a broad term that encompasses all natural and synthetic vitamin A derivatives. The most common retinoids used in skin care are retinoic acid, retinol, retinyl esters, and retinaldehyde.

Retinoic acid, also known as tretinoin, is the most bioavailable retinoid. In other words, Retinoic acid does not need to be converted, so it is readily available and acts faster than other retinoids. As a result, Chang claims, it's typically only available by prescription — most commonly as Retino-A.

Retinol is the alcohol formulation of vitamin A, as well as the version most commonly used in skin-care products. Retinol has been shown to improve tone and texture, dyspigmentation, dryness, and fine lines. However, there is a catch. It is less irritating than tretinoin, but it is also 20 times less effective because it must be converted into retinoic acid.

However, this does not imply that retinol is ineffective. Retinol can benefit skin at levels as low as 0.01 percent up to the maximum recommended level of 1 percent, which is great news for first-timers who may want to start low and work their way up in retinol strength.

Retinyl palmitate, a retinol ester combined with palmitic acid, is also commonly used in skin care. In general, retinol esters are precursor molecules to retinol, which means they must be broken down first into retinol and then into retinoic acid, making them less potent than retinol.

How should you begin using retinol?

If you're new to retinoids or prone to irritation — or even if you're not prone to irritation — your skin may become reactive when the vitamin A derivative is introduced into your skin-care routine. Start with a small amount of retinol every other night. I would suggest a milder retinoid in a cream base for the sensitive areas under the eyes.

On the face, I prefer a serum formulation followed by moisturiser to combat potential irritation or dryness.

Finally, there is retinaldehyde, also known as retinal aldehyde. It's very stable, but it's also the least potent retinoid in the group.

What is the function of retinol?

You've probably heard that retinol can benefit almost everyone, and that's not an exaggeration. Retinoids are keratolytics, which means they stimulate collagen synthesis and increase skin cell turnover.

So, what does this have to do with your skin-care concerns and goals? As a dermatologist I highly recommend it if you want to reduce common signs of ageing. It can help smooth, even out, and firm skin, as well as reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

Although smoothing lines and increasing elasticity are the most obvious benefits of retinol, its mechanism can also help with breakouts and the residue they leave behind. In terms of acne, the increase in cell turnover aids in the unclogging of pores. This also aids in the reduction of brown or red post-acne spots — post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation — as well as collagen synthesis for acne scarring.

Prescription-strength retinoids are typically used to treat acne, whereas over-the-counter formulas are used to treat signs of ageing. Thankfully, many nonprescription retinoid products have significantly improved their formulations by incorporating retinol release over time.

My patients begin taking prescription-strength retinoids twice a week and gradually increase to every night over the course of a month. I recommend waiting about 30 minutes after washing your face to allow the natural facial oils to return. She also extols the virtues of a technique known as flash contact, which entails rubbing in the retinoid and then washing it away. Studies show that this is still beneficial to your skin.

According to Chang, this could be because retinol works best when used sparingly. Applying more at once to your skin will not result in faster results; instead, it will cause more irritation.

The sandwich technique is another popular application method among top dermatologists in Mumbai. This entails applying a base layer of moisturiser to your skin before and after applying your retinol product. This base layer of moisturiser does not dilute or reduce the efficacy of the retinoid, but rather helps with tolerability.

But, whether you're new to retinol or an old pro, one rule remains constant: sunscreen is a must. Because retinol restores your skin's normal balance, it can make your skin more prone to burning. The best way to combat this is to wear sunscreen every day while using a retinol — something everyone should do anyway.