Removing Hole

Removing Hole




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Removing Hole
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I have a shapefile that consists of a single polygon. I have gaps within the polygon that need to be eliminated. The resultant dataset shoulde be a single, solid polygon.
I have tried implementing topology rules (rule: must not have gaps) on the dataset (it's in a geodatabase and within a feature dataset), but I don't think this is the appropriate solution/technique to accomplish this task. Any ideas?
I'm on ArGIS 10 with an ArcInfo License.
The help file under Common Polygon Editing Tasks and the section Filling in donut holes in polygons may help.
You could also try the "must not have gaps" rule to actually find the donut polygons. I've had mixed success with automatically creating polygons to fill the gap, when using the Topology edit toolbar.
Either way, once you've filled the holes you could use the Merge or Dissolve tools to create a single polygon.
If you're just trying to do one or two manually, this solution worked for me.
Make sure you are in an active edit session, highlight the feature you want to edit, and look for the "edit vertices" toolbar. Select the "delete vertix" button, draw a box around the gaps, and then press delete.
Stephen's answer is definitely the best. Just looked at this in another context and if you only need to clean up a single feature, deleting parts of it in the Editor works like a charm:
This is also a great way to study the structure of shapefiles, in case of erroneous geometries etc.
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By
Ashley Friedman Updated
February 1, 2022

Reviewed by

Reed Nelson, Master Plumber


Hunker may earn compensation through affiliate links in this story.

Image Credit:
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Can Manhole Covers Fall Into Their Holes?


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People often underestimate how heavy a manhole is. It rattles when we drive over it, so it should be pretty easy to dislodge and lift, right? Wrong. Manholes are generally made of cast iron and are extremely heavy. Removing one improperly can be very dangerous to the back and spinal column if proper precautions are not taken.
Using a manhole cover hook to remove a manhole cover is probably the most practical approach since you're a using a tool specifically designed for this use. Manhole cover hooks are available at home improvement stores like Home Depot or Lowe's. Manhole cover hooks, also known as manhole keys, come in a variety of sizes and styles. Make sure that you have the correct sort of hook for the manhole cover you are trying to remove. Using the wrong hook will get you nowhere.
After acquiring the correct manhole cover hook or key, make sure that the area around the manhole cover is clear of dirt, debris or mud that can bind the manhole cover to the hole itself, making it difficult to dislodge.
Once the perimeter is clear, hook the manhole key into the manhole cover, straddle the manhole cover and lift with your back straight and your knees bent. This is very important: Back injuries can happen when you lift using your back and not your legs.
While manhole cover keys are the most highly recommended way to dislodge and remove a manhole cover, there are other ways to complete this task. However, it's very important to exercise caution when removing a manhole cover with ancillary tools that are not specifically designed to leverage the weight of a manhole cover. Crowbars can be used to prise open manhole covers if you are ultimately planning to lift the cover with your hands, but cannot be used to lift the manhole covers themselves. If you plan to lift the manhole cover with your hands, be sure that you're wearing heavy duty gloves to protect your hands from scrapes, cuts and the rough sides of the manhole cover.
Screwdrivers can also be used as prising tools to help loosen the manhole cover from its ring, but should not be used to lift the manhole cover.
A common worry about lifting a manhole cover is that the manhole cover will slip out of your grip and go tumbling into the hole. However, this is impossible: Manhole covers can't fall into manholes because both the hole and the cover are round. Underneath the manhole cover is a small lip that is smaller in circumference than a manhole cover, and the manhole cover itself, even turned on its side cannot slip through.

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Choose your reamer. Hand reamers work best in soft materials such as wood or plastic. Begin by choosing the size reamer to which you need your hole bored out. A hand reamer will have a square shank and depending on the size of the reamer, you’ll fit the shank into either a tap wrench or crescent wrench to turn it. [1]
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A hand reamer allows for great accuracy after considerable practice.


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Place the material you need to bore in a vise or steady it with clamps. Since a reamer is a precision tool, you don’t want your material moving around as you ream the hole.

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Drill the hole. Because a reamer is an enlarging tool and not a cutting tool, you must drill out the hole with a standard drill bit before reaming it. [2]
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You want to use a drill bit approximately 0.016" smaller than your reamer to ensure that you don’t oversize the hole.

For instance, if you know that you need to ream your hole to 1/2", then you’d want to drill the hole first with a 31/64" drill bit. [3]
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Drilling a hole too small and leaving too much material left for the reamer to clear can lead to the reamer deflecting off the material, which is called chatter. Chatter leads to poor finishes and can also damage your reamer.


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Apply lubricant to the material. Based on the material into which you’re boring, you may need to apply cutting fluid to lubricate the reamer. Though less common with hand reaming, it’s not unheard of.

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Ream the hole. Now that the hole is prepped, you can use your tap wrench or crescent wrench to ream the hole. You will likely have either a straight flute reamer or a left-hand spiral flute reamer, which refers to the direction of the blades that actually enlarge the hole. In the case of a spiral reamer, you will need to turn counterclockwise.

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Affix the material firmly to a flat surface with clamps or a vise. If you’re boring completely through the material, use a set of vise parallels to help support it while keeping it raised enough to drill through. [4]
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If you do use parallels, tap the material down with a rubber mallet to ensure that it’s tight against the parallels and won’t move once you begin drilling. [5]
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Use a center drill bit in the press to mark your hole accurately. A center drill is a much smaller, pointed bit that allows you more precision in starting a hole at an exact mark before drilling it out with a larger bit. [6]
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A dab of cutting fluid should be applied when boring tougher materials such as metals to lubricate the bore and extend the life of all bits. [7]
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Drill with a bit 0.016" narrower in diameter than the hole desired. As with hand reaming, you still want to use a 1/64" smaller drill bit to bore your hole before reaming. [8]
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A drill press will allow more control and accuracy than a hand-held drill, especially on harder materials and denser metals, which is why a drill press is recommended.

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Clear the hole. Especially when reaming a metal piece, you want to clear any filings from drilling the hole before reaming. Use a small round file to work away any filings. [9]
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Affix your reamer into the drill chuck. You’re now ready to place the reamer into the drill chuck and tighten it down. For high precision jobs, you may also consider using a floating reamer holder. A floating reamer holder allows the reamer to float, meaning it gives the reamer just enough movement to
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