Pump That Rump
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Pump That Rump
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4.3 out of 5 stars
89 ratings
Currently unavailable. We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock.
Size:
1.25 Inch (Pack of 1)
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Size: 0.75 Inch (Pack of 1) Verified Purchase
The fittings to build a ram pump are less than half this cost. However, many buyers would not have a clue when they shopped at their local home-improvement store. They don't understand the terminology: nipples, check valves, unions, pressure tank, ball valves, etc. Foremost, I've never shopped a plumbing department where everything was in the correct bin. If you are a rookie, don't even try. How much is your time worth? Land-to-House builds ram pumps that work. They arrive almost ready to use. It will be up to you as to how to connect to the device; and that includes both the front and rear ends. Connecting is the easy part. Any clerk can look at your device and tell you what it takes to complete the circuit. Usually costs less than ten bucks for the adapter fittings. A ram pump is a delicate balance of nature. Please watch YouTube to educate yourself. There is math and physics involved to understand how a ram pump works. Maybe you might get lucky and score on the first shot. But, a ram pump is akin to adjusting the carburetor and distributor on grandpa's old car. Doesn't take much effort; but it requires a lot of comprehension. Again, educate yourself on YouTube before buying. This is not a toy for the ignorant. My best advice is to test your pump in your yard before dealing with the creek. You can buy a cheap trash barrel to hold water. Set the barrel up on your porch steps. Find out exactly how much elevation is required to get your pump started. Also, test how much drive pipe is needed. A ram pump is a tool. You need to know how to wield that tool. Land-To-House makes a great tool. But, don't think this device is "plug&play." Before buying, watch the numerous videos of Land-to-House on YouTube; or visit his web site. Very informative. If, after all that you are still confused, don't buy this pump. Now, back to the beginning: What would you pay somebody to shop all those parts, and glue them together? Might realize this is a pretty good deal for the newcomer. Personally, I'm experimenting with different designs. Couldn't have got this far without Land-To-House. And, so far, his designs rule. Buy this pump only if you understand why it works. Great pump for the informed.
Size: 0.75 Inch (Pack of 1) Verified Purchase
Size: 1.25 Inch (Pack of 1) Verified Purchase
I just got my Land to House ram pump a couple days ago and it is exactly what I saw on his YouTube channel (with the exception of having a brass shut off valve instead of the stainless steel one. I am assuming I got one of the old ones that was still in stock from before he made the switch). Everything looks like it is put together well and I am excited to get started putting it all together! I also bought all of the parts separately to make a second pump (Seth at Land to House on YouTube has a video that goes into detail on what to buy and how to assemble your own ram pump) and I have to say that the cost difference between buying all of the parts to build one and just buying one pre-assembled is minimal. One thing I do like better about the one I built is that the ball valves I used have mounting holes in the bottom of them and they have unions on each end. They also come with both threaded and slip type ends, so there are just more options there. If you are unsure how these things work, or how to set one up, Seth does a great job of showing the ins and outs of the whole process. He also has a lot of videos where he tries different things with his ram pumps to see what works and what does not. I highly recommend checking out his channel. I read a lot of reviews before I bought this pump and one of the biggest negative comments that I saw was in regards to the pump requiring both, a steady flow of water as well as a significant drop. Seth goes over this thoroughly in his videos as well as in his description. If you are unsure whether or not your location will be suitable, I recommend checking out his videos. Just as a quick reference, every 1 foot of drop in the drive pipe generates 7 feet of lift in the delivery pipe.
Size: 0.75 Inch (Pack of 1) Verified Purchase
While these pumps have incredible capacity to pump water uphill, they are quite fiddly to get the desired outcome if you have challenging terrain to overcome. I have watched everything online I could find prior to purchase, and it still took a week of trial and error to get the water to the desired location. Seth’s videos on YouTube are a crash course in rampump tech and I would highly advise watching them all repeatedly when trying to get your pump working properly. Pump comes w/a hand written note from Seller which gives an email address to pose any question. A very nice touch. Thank-you Seth and LandtoHouse.com -David in TN
Size: 1 Count (Pack of 1) Verified Purchase
This product is well made and works perfectly. If I had to buy all the parts it would cost this much or more and I would have to then spend time making it.
Size: 1.25 Inch (Pack of 1) Verified Purchase
You have given me alot of important info through the many videos on YOUTUBE. Keep up the good work
Size: 1 Count (Pack of 1) Verified Purchase
There's something so cool about watching this thing work.
Size: 1.25 Inch (Pack of 1) Verified Purchase
Great product I will be using it to fill the swimming pool, watering yard and fruit trees. Thanks Brad
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Hydraulic Ram Pump An old technology that allows you to pump water from a creek or river. -The 1-1/4" ram pump requires at least 8gpm to operate. -You will need a minimum of 2 feet of fall (head pressure) to get the pump running correctly. -The driving force behind the ram pump is “head pressure” this is the drop in water between the source and pump location. You will need at least 2 feet of head pressure to get the pump going. -You can expect to get a ratio of 1:7 head pressure to lift. This means that for every 1 foot of water falling into the pump you will get 7 feet of lift out. -In order to setup the ram pump you will need two additional components. A drive pipe, to bring water to the pump, and a delivery pipe to take water to the desired location. The Drive pipe needs to be the same size as the waste valve on the pump. In this case 1-1/4". You can use Steel, PVC or Poly Pipe. It is recommended that the drive pipe be longer than 15 feet and shorter than 100 feet. The Delivery pipe can be any size you like. Even a garden hose will work. (Some additional components might be required to connect pipe to the pump depending on the type pipe you use) -Once the required pipes are installed and the pump is in location you will need to start the pump. Initially you will need to manually press the brass swing valve to allow pressure to build in the pressure tank. Once the pressure has built the pump will cycle on its own.
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#49,415 in Patio, Lawn & Garden ( See Top 100 in Patio, Lawn & Garden ) #300 in Water Garden & Pond Pumps
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By habolooby
in Workshop Energy
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Before you can really do much, you've got to go out and buy some stuff. One of those sad facts of many projects. But if you want to build this (and it's a lot of fun to see it work), print out this list and head to the plumbing dept of your hardware store. Materials for the Pump 1-1/4" valve 1-1/4" tee (buy two of these) 1-1/4" union 1-1/4" brass swing check valve 1-1/4" spring check valve 3/4" tee 3/4" valve 3/4" union 1-1/4" x 3/4" bushing 1/4" pipe cock 100 psi gauge 3/4" x 6" nipple 4" x 1-1/4" bushing 4" coupling 4" x 24" PR160 PVC pipe 4" PVC glue cap 3/4" x 1/4" bushing Short (4') section of 1-1/4" PVC pipe Old Bicycle Innertube This parts list comes directly from the Clemson website. I recommend you look there for help in identifying what each of the pieces look like, if you're unsure. I'm also not convinced that the 100 PSI gauge, or all of the things that make it possible, are necessary. This will probably drop the price a good bit, and I haven't found a need for it on my pump. The associated pieces are: 100 PSI gauge, 3/4" Tee, 3/4" x 1/4" bushing, the 1/4" pipe cock. Four things not needed. But have them if you like. Connections Note Read through the instructable and understand all the pipe-fitting connections that will happen before buying materials. The store may not have exactly what you're looking for, and you may have to improvise. I wound up getting some different parts because my local store didn't have the exact parts I was looking for. This usually appears in the form of not having a threaded fitting, but having a smooth pipe connection, or vice versa. Not a problem, you can figure it out. Installation Materials Long section of 1-1/4" PVC ("drive pipe", connects pump to water supply) Garden Hose (male end threads into 3/4" union, supplies pumped water) Bricks, blocks, rocks to prop up and anchor pump Shower Drain assembly (must be able to attach to 1-1/4" pipe, for attaching pipe to water supply) Build Materials and Tools PVC Primer (I used Oatey Purple Primer) PVC Cement (Oatey again, just what they had) Teflon Thread Tape Hacksaw Measuring Tape Clamps Pocket Knife Lab gloves (keeps the chemicals on the pipe and off your hands) Bike Pump (to inflate the innertube)
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Wooden Zipper
by rschoenm
in Woodworking
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Pump water with no electricity, no gasoline, just gravity! Sound crazy or impossible? Don't worry, it does obey the laws of physics, but I'll try to explain the operation later. This instructable shows how to build a fairly simple water pump that needs no energy input other than water flowing from a higher point to a lower point. Most of the pump is constructed from PVC, with a couple of bronze pieces thrown in for flavor. I was able to source all of the parts from a local hardware store (Lowes) for a bit under $100. To function, the pump does require a reasonable amount of water that will drop at least 3'-5'. The level that the pump can raise water to depends on the water's head (total drop the water will make). This design was worked out by Clemson University . If you like what I've done, please take the time to give it a rating, and I'd love to hear your input. Thanks!
Now that you've bought lots of goodies, lay them out on the table (or floor) so that you can start to see how the pump goes together. See the pictures for a visual on this. You will have to cut the long sections of pipe into shorter sections to go between each of the fittings. This is discussed more in the next step.
You need to connect each of these little units with some pipe, so set about cutting segments off of that stock 1-1/4" pipe with the hacksaw. They don't need to be long, just enough to reach all the way into each fitting, maybe with some space between. But not much! Once these pieces are all cut, take your knife (or some sand paper) and try to smooth the inside edge of the pipe. Get all the burr off, clean it up, give it a nice bevel or rounded edge. The idea here is to make these as smooth as possible, to reduce the likelihood of cracks developing with the repeated pressure waves that occur inside the pipe. Clean up both ends, and make pieces to join all of the 1-1/4" fittings. While you're at it, you might as well clean up the edges on the other sections of pipe, though it will be less critical for the other parts. Now that you've got all the connecting segments, you can actually test fit the first part of the pump together, just for fun. Don't worry if the pipes seem rather tight when you're test fitting everything. The primer and cement help them go together when you do the real assembly.
Grab your lab gloves, a clamp, primer, cement, two fittings and their connecting piece of pipe. Then head to a well ventilated space, because the primer and cement aren't precisely aromatherapy. At least not the good kind. For those of you who haven't built things from PVC in the past, it isn't terribly difficult. The primer serves to clean off the PVC a little bit and gets it ready to really bond with the cement. The cement keeps everything together. Most PVC chemical bottles have caps with little brushes attached to them. Take the cap off the primer, and carefully coat the outside face of the pipe, with a band about 2" wide beginning at the end. Take care not to drip the primer on anything that you don't want permanently purple. Once the pipe is coated, do the same for the inside of the fitting that you're planning on cementing up. Close up the primer bottle. Open up the cement bottle, which should also have a little brush in it. With this brush, go over the areas that you painted with the primer. Don't rush, but you do want to get the pipes together before the cement dries up. You've got time though, so focus on getting a nice coating of cement on both pieces. Once you've got cement where you want it (and hopefully only a little where you don't) fit the pipe into the fitting. It should slide in without too much resistance. When working on my pump, I felt that it was best to clamp up each piece after I had assembled it, that way the pipe couldn't slip back at all. It may not be necessary, but I figure it helps. Most of the pieces go together in a fairly self-explanatory way, but there are a few things to note: on the spring check valve there is an arrow, and you will want this to point toward the main tee that will have the 4" pipe (air chamber) on it. This allows water to pass through toward the main tee, which you want. With the brass swing check valve , the arrow should point down toward the tee, and the main line of pipe. On to the next step for order of assembly!
I began at one end of the pump, with the 1-1/4" valve to the 1-1/4" union. You can choose to start with other pieces, but I found that setting up the main line gave me something easy to clamp up. After the 1-1/4" to 3/4" bushing is on this tee, you can glue up the end assembly separately, and then connect it to the main assembly with the threaded 3/4" pipe. When connecting the threaded sections, make sure to wrap some teflon tape around the threads. This will help the operation along and prevent leaks at these joints.
Now you need to put together the pressure chamber. Gather up your big pipe section, cap, adapter, bike tube, and bike pump. Using the pump, partially inflate the bike tube. Don't pump it up all the way, just enough that the tube is squishy. We need the air in the pressure chamber to act like a spring. The bike tube prevents the pressure chamber from becoming waterlogged during operation. Air dissolves into water. It does so more readily at high pressure. (This is related to how commercially produced soft drinks are carbonated) The bike tube sequesters some of the air from ever contacting the water (in theory), and prevents all of the air from being carried out of the pressure chamber. Stuff the bike tube down into the big pipe, a la image two. After this, cement on both ends, and clamp that suck
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