Puebla buying snow

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Puebla buying snow

But nothing about it is typical for us. My friend Deirdre and I have arrived for the first time in this Central Mexican metropolis after a five-hour flight from New York and two-hour bus ride east from Mexico City. Deirdre, who planned this trip, sits by my side in the taxi, reenergized, like me, our heads poking out the back seat windows into the humid air to take it all in. Back in our 20s, before husbands and kids, Deirdre and I were travel buddies, road tripping around the United States and visiting Mexico City twice. Our kids are grown. We have a few days off. So here we are on the road again. Our taxi pulls up to the 17th-century manor house Casona de la China Poblana casonadelachinapoblana. I feel a little bit like her myself, kidnapped by Deirdre and brought to this strange and beautiful city. This manor house is where she once lived. Our rooms, individually named and decorated, are fit for a princess. Mine is the Catarina de San Juan and features ornate plasterwork, exposed woodbeams, and a sparkling chandelier. And, with the antiques and charm also comes Wi-Fi and air conditioning. The weather in Puebla in the winter is warm, but not oppressive. A communal balcony with comfortable couches and chairs offers a view of the courtyard. Though part of me would like to luxuriate in my four-poster bed, we hit the town running. Its 2, preserved Colonial-era buildings and its many Baroque churches, gloriously lit by spotlights each night, give the city a smaller, safer feel than Mexico City. Tourists here tend to be from Mexico and Latin America. The main square is filled with Mexican families on holiday, laughing children running on the grass and buying balloons from street vendors, and couples sipping coffee from portico -covered cafes, serenaded by buskers. Looming over us all is the immense Catedral de Puebla, its lights just going on as the sun begins to set. Another local legend has it that after the cathedral was completed in , its architects puzzled over how to lift the more than 8-ton bell into its tower. We explore the cathedral as well as several other churches, including Santo Domingo, famous for its over-the-top Capilla del Rosario, a Baroque explosion of angels and cherubs encrusted in gold. Dating back to , the ornate chapel was considered in its time to be the eighth wonder of the world, and looking at it now, I can see why. The ornamentation is made from stucco and covered in shining karat gold sheets, all in honor of the Virgin Mary standing in a bright orange carved canopy on the altar. I briefly consider putting on my sunglasses. After a late-night walk around the still-buzzing center of town, we retire to our rooms. We hit the Biblioteca Palafoxiana palafoxiana. The library is a nearly foot vaulted hall lined with three levels of ornate cases filled with oversized books. A well-worn ceramic floor is studded by a grid of gorgeous blue and white Talavera tiles, while a golden altar dedicated to the Virgin of Trapana sits at one end. Over the next few days, we keep running into her memory, most notably at the Museo Internacional del Barroco mib. She was not only brilliant and well read at a time when women were discouraged from being either, but she was also a knockout; her beautiful likeness is on display on a panel at the museum. Designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Toyo Ito, the newly opened museum is a must-see when visiting Puebla. Its exterior is a jarring and thoroughly modern contrast to the Baroque pieces inside, built of undulating white walls that resemble curved pieces of paper. In a spacious courtyard, a large amoeba-shaped fountain provides a calming contrast to the collection of ornate arches, moldings, costumes, and statuary inside. Chinese ceramics with curved dragons and ornate swirls are on display, making that artistic connection abundantly clear. Back at the hotel the next morning, we have a delicious plate of chilaquiles, lightly fried pieces of corn tortillas cooked in green salsa and covered in cheese and chicken. Back in my 20s on a trip to Cairo, I walked fearlessly into the depths of one of the pyramids at Giza. But middle age has left me slightly claustrophobic. Instead of in, we go up. Back at the bottom is the Museo Regional de Cholula museospuebla. I sit on a bench for a few minutes to rest my feet and take it all in. The museum houses an exhibit on the surrounding volcanoes as well as pre-Columbian objects and Mexican folk art, including some snarling, colorfully painted imaginary animals. While waiting for the train back to Puebla, we pass by hawkers selling dried insects I tried them years ago in Mexico City, thank you very much. Hungry from our climb, we grab lunch at a two-story food court near the station. We slurp down hearty bowls of pozole, a hominy and chicken soup. I foolishly dress mine with the raw lettuce, cilantro, radishes, and onions provided in small ceramic dishes. Miraculously, I rally within 24 hours. Meanwhile, Deirdre has her beautiful blue and white Pueblan pottery and I have my day of rest. There are rooster-shaped sweets, and heart-shaped sweets, lime flavored and coconut covered, many made from sweet potato, tamarind, and other savory ingredients mixed with sugar. The sweet making in Puebla is said to have been started by 17th-century nuns, and the place we choose, La Gran Fama lagranfama. The woman at the counter carefully wraps each jelly, cookie, and jamoncillo de leche the Mexican version of fudge in colored tissue paper and places them in a box with a bow. We spend most of the day shopping, with me buying some of the pottery I missed on the tour, including a blue and white flowered bowl for the center of my dining room table. The street gets its name from Colonial times when the San Francisco River would flood the barrio and leave frogs in its wake. The day ends with dinner at Augurio augurio. Deirdre has saved the best for last. Because of my sensitive stomach, I gingerly tuck into my deep, dark mole and hesitantly sip a mezcal recommended by our waiter. But all is well. I thank the angels. And the nuns. And Deirdre. Correction: This story has been updated to correct the credit for the photo of a worker crafting ceramics. The photo was taken by Lisa Bauso. By Helene Stapinski October 31, , a. Email to a Friend. View Comments. Lisa Bauso. Get Starting Point. A guide through the most important stories of the morning, delivered Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Enter Email Sign Up. The Catedral de Puebla at night. Adobe Stock. Capilla del Rosario is considered a masterpiece of 17th-century architecture. The Biblioteca Palafoxiana, the oldest library in Latin America. Alamy Stock Photo. A worker shapes a piece at Uriarte Talavera, a ceramics company started in Enchiladas tres moles at El Mural de los Poblanos. Boston Globe Today.

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Puebla buying snow

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Puebla buying snow