Printable Sex Doll Model

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Uncategorized Design and Print the Doll of Your Dreams
Lydia Mahon
August 11th 2016 - 4:44pm
















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From this point, you can either buy accessories and clothing straight from RML, or source or make your own. As a doll collector myself, its amazing to know that I can customise a doll down to the tiniest of facial features, like lip thickness.
It’s a bit hard to find the right area on the website for everything to be in English, but if you choose the English option in the facemaker program page its a lot easier to navigate the site. However, you can also access the FAQ here and the order form here to see what RML has to offer.
RML doesn’t stop there with their 3D printing expertise either, as they also 3D print flexible plastic fantasy clothing for their dolls.
 The clothing is printed in flexible acrylic, and is modelled and printed to fit their specific doll. Sadly this means these creations aren’t the right size to fit other BJDs on the market, but if you happen to own one of their dolls, this clothing should fit.





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Obviously anything doll-related may not be something to associate with dreams for some, but there are communities of doll collectors that are larger than you’d initially think.
One doll community which is starting to feel the force of 3D printing in particular, is the Ball Jointed Doll (BJD) community.
A BJD is a doll which features ball joints, and is strung together with elastic cord. Most are cast in resin and finished by hand, before being professionally painted, which is why they come with quite a hefty pricetag. However, this doesn’t stop doll hobbyists from collecting them, painting them, developing characters and making accessories. The ‘custom’ element of these dolls is what brings many people into the hobby (as well as them being super pretty and cool to look at) and ‘custom’ products are becoming more and more widely produced on 3D printers.
These resin BJDs allow you change their eyes, hair, how the face is painted, and body parts can even be mixed and matched depending on the owners requirements to help create the perfect doll for them. They even come in a wide range in sizes, from as small as under 10cm, to over a metre tall. More common sizes include 1/6 scale (around 27cm), 1/4 scale (around 45cm) , 1/3 scale (around 60cm) and larger (70cm +).
However the levels customisation these dolls already offer just isn’t enough to some, as that perfect face shape can often be just out of reach. This is where RML makes their entrance.
RML allows customers to model their own doll face using a user-friendly program, print the 3D modelled face, finish, paint and then assemble the face and body into a full doll.
How do I customise my own doll face?
A user friendly program called ‘RML 3D FACEMAKER’ presents you with a list of facial features which you can manipluate using a sliding bar which you can select and scroll side to side with a computer mouse or touchpad. You don’t have to pay anything to use the program, so I’ve already had a go at creating my own dream doll. Here’s the link to the program , which requires unity web player and a browser to run. It doesn’t run in Google Chrome, but it works with most other browsers.
You can create a wide range of faces, here are two I created myself, which both look very different. The different sliders do need a lot of tweaking in order to balance everything and create a face, but its super fun, especially when RML encourages users to share their creations with each other. They do stress that users can’t use their creations on a commercial level, however.
Providing a program that uses a browser to run is particularly useful, as it doesn’t shut out potential users who would otherwise be unable to download large programs just to customise a doll face.
To get your finished design over to RML for making, all you do is copy and paste the code at the bottom into the right box in the order form, and they do the rest. Make sure to click the ‘creation code’ button when you’re finished creating, otherwise you either won’t have a code or may have the wrong one!
Just imagine if this kind of software could be used for other customised items? A chair? An ornament? One of the biggest problems when it comes to 3D printing is the lack of user friendly programs which opens doors for those who struggle with complex 3D modelling software, so this could be the way forwards for customers to customise products themselves.
Once the information is sent off to RML, the face is printed in nylon using a 3D printer.
Once printed, the face is a bit rough, which is fine for some figurines and toys that are printed, but in the world of BJDs, the dolls need to be finished to a very high level of quality, after the printing stage, the head is then sent to an artist who sands and paints the doll face.
The head can be bought separately as is, without a body too, for those who want to paint the doll themselves.
You can get the full doll with a body, which stands at 60cm tall, fitting into the 1/3 category for dolls, also placing it at about the average size for a BJD. This doesn’t seem that important for some, but many owners struggle with buying clothing for dolls which are odd sizes, so having your own custom doll at a size which is easy to buy accessories for makes the doll all the more appealing to potential owners.
The finished face is smooth, painted professionally, and sealed with a Japanese branded matte sealant called ‘Mr Super Clear’.
I’ve seen all too many doll collectors angst over never finding the perfect face for a character they want to customise a doll for, so it’s incredibly exciting to see that you can in fact customise a doll face to exactly what you need. In fact, it is mentioned in the FAQ that you can contact RML about them helping you to create a particular look if you can’t quite manage it using the program, so even if you struggle with the software, you can still have the doll face of your dreams!
A Product Designer and overall creative person, with a passion for all things design. I have a particular interest in cosplay and the violin, but I'm an explorer of many mediums.
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Hi naughty one! So you'd like to have fun with kinky 3D printed models?! You are right ;)
But on Cults, little bunnies have to prove they are grown up enough.
This doll gives you nothing but pleasure. Just stuff it with any meaty TPE/Silicon stroker and enjoy the workout.
Cradle Lily back and forth, dress her up a bit, switch positions in seconds with one hand. Say goodbye to flabby torsos and heavy dolls weighing between 12 to 40Kg. After a hard day's work, all some of us really need is pure pleasure and having great workouts before crashing. And Lily is designed specifically for this.
Dimension is 67x33x33cm (26.38x13x13 inches) with a "wing span" of 67cm (26.38in). Cavity is 20cm (8in.) and tunnels through to the other side to save filament as well as provide an extra area to tuck-in excess clothing material.
Removable 2-piece cylinder is 9.5cm (3.7in) in diameter and fastens into the cavity via a twist-fasten mechanism¹ which enables customization of fillings (eg. cloths, sponges, silicone flesh-toys etc.). Do away with the cylinder and order the thickest, "dual entry" TPE/Silicon you can find online as a filling, and experience the tightest, yet soft, alien hole this universe has to offer.
Or create your own custom TPE/Silicon filling (for those who know how). The removable design is intended for quick and easy cleaning.
This doll is worth the print time and you'll be pleasantly surprised.
¹ Add thickness to the removable cylinder with masking tape for a tight, smooth and quiet fit inside the cavity, if found loose.
Originally designed for Creality CR-10 3D printers.
Recommended Simplify 3D and Cura Settings
(or use what works best for you if you like)
EXTRUDER (Primary Extruder)
- Extrusion Multiplier: 1 (to 1.2 for increased outline adhesion)
- Extrusion Width: Auto
- Retraction: No (Yes for cap.stl)
- Coast at End: No
- Wipe Nozzle: No
LAYER
- Layer Height: 0.2mm
- Top Solid Layers: 4
- Bottom Solid Layers: 3
- Outline/Perimeter Shells: 3
- Outline Direction: Inside-Out
- Startpoint: Choose start point closest to specific location
X: 150, Y: 300
ADDITIONS
- Use Skirt/Brim: Yes
- Skirt Layers: 1
- Skirt Offset from part: 2.00mm
- Skirt Outlines: 3 (just to prime the nozzle)
- Use Raft: No
INFILL
- Internal/External Fill Pattern: Rectilinear
- Interior Fill Percentage: 2% (0% for thighs)
- Outline Overlap: 60%
- Infill Extrusion Width: 100%
- Minimum Infill Length: 5.00mm
- Combine Infill Every: 2 layers (or 1 for increased strength)
- Internal/External Infill Angle Offsets: 45, -45
TEMPERATURE
Heatbed: Layer 1 @ 70°C, Layer 2 @ 60°C, Layer 3 @ 55°C
Primary Extruder: Layer 1 @ 205°C, Layer 2 @ 195°C
Printing Temperature Initial Layer: 200°C
Intial Build Plate Temperature: 70°C
Build Plate Temperature: 55°C
Extrusion Multiplier: 1.00
Extrusion Width: Auto
SUPPORT
- Not required. Torso and thighs have built-in support geometry
to be manually clipped off after printing.
TEMPERATURE
- Primary Extruder: L1@200°C, L2@195°C
- Heatbed: L1@70°C, L2@60°C, L3@55°C
COOLING
- Per-layer Fan Controls (depends on your cooling fan):
L1@0, L2@50, L3@60, L4@75, L5@100
QUALITY
Layer Height: 0.2mm
Line Width: 0.4mm (Nozzle 0.4mm)
- Skirt/Brim Line Width: 0.4mm (around 3 outlines)
- Skirt/Brim Offset: 2mm
SUPPORTS (External)
- Not required. Torso and thighs have built-in support geometry
to be manually clipped off after printing.
SHELL
Wall Thickness: 0.8mm (minimum 3 perimeter walls)
Top/Bottom thickness: 0.8mm
- Top Layers: 4
- Bottom Layers: 3
Top/Bottom Pattern: Zig Zag
Bottom Pattern Initial Layer: Zig Zag
Optimize Wall Printing Order: True (checkmarked)
Fill Gaps Between Walls: Everywhere
INFILL (Cura)
Infill Density: 10-15%
- Infill Line Distance: 10mm
Infill Pattern: Zig Zag (or grid but always same angle)
Infill Overlap Percentage: 20%
Infill Layer Thickness: 0.2mm
Gradual Infill Steps: 0
MATERIAL (PLA)
Printing Temperature: 195°C
Printing Temperature Initial Layer: 200°C
Default Build Plate Temperature: 55°C
Build Plate Temperature: 55°C
Build Plate Temperature Initial Layer: 70°C
Diameter: 1.75mm (PLA)
Flow: 120%
Initial Layer Flow: 120%
Enable Retraction: False (True for cap.stl)
SPEED
Print Speed: 65mm/s
Travel Speed: 85mm/s
Print Jerk: 2mm/s
Travel Jerk: 2mm/s
Generate Support: True
Support Placement: Touching Buildplate
Support Overhang Angle: 75°
Support Pattern: Zig Zag
BUILD PLATE ADHESION (only for priming the nozzle)
Build Plate Adhesion Type: Skirt
Skirt Line Count: 2
Skirt Distance: 0.5mm
Your settings may vary based on room temperature and how well your 3D printer is calibrated.
PRINT TIME:
Torso: Approximately 2 days (of faster depending on infill).
Thighs: Approximately 2 days.
Cap and Cup: 1 day.
Actual print time will vary. Depending on printer speed.
Is there a way to slice this to fit on an ender 5 pro
Good work, see you accept suggestions, I assume you had the idea of ​​making a full size doll here are some ideas:
It should not be a "large" doll at least its original design, since anyone can scale it to the size they prefer, it should be a doll thought to be the size of 60cm to 120cm at most.
Could you provide the source files? Got a different mold I would like to fit with the body.
Anything "normal" would be too loose, so, just experiment. So long socks makes excellent stockings. One half of a long-john makes a nice sexy blouse. Even a santa hat (after Xmas parties) makes a nice red mini-skirt (just cut the top of the hat and slide it on).
Another idea is to just hang "her" down from the ceiling... just a ton of stuff you can do there. Have fun.
And sorry, no molds available. Maybe someday.
What size clothing would best suit this model?
I want a mold for full silicone casting of the same design, can you make it? I will pay you
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