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This is a line of articles discussing a sailing trip from Lisbon in Portugal to Arrecife on Lanzarote. This fleet of six brand new Grandlarge sailing yachts ranging from 38 to 51 feet has been sailed by dedicated skippers well known to the company who recruited their respective crews amongst friends and committed sailors. As I open my eyes and wake up, a gentle sew-saw of the boat reassures me that we are still on our yacht, I am still out here on the Atlantic Ocean and as consciousness finally returns my memories do as well. Yesterday — or should I say today? Prone to a 2. He was now the one commandeering the crew to get up soon because a berth in the marina has been emptied for us. Minutes later we sat alongside a floating pontoon: Now we had really arrived! And what a difference to our first impressions when we arrived here today during pitch black darkness and violet eddies in the marina. It is situated some 30 miles north-east of Madeira. A small Island, some 15 kilometers in length and not wider than 6 kilometers. As we check Wikipedia, we learn that not more than 6. Mostly from tourism, sparse agriculture and mostly from cattle-breeding. Porto Santo features one single harbour, both open for a small fleet of fishing boats, the daily ferry to Madeira and of course pleasure craft. The marina berths are fully occupied and as I judge by the rich coloured murals on the harbour wall Porto Santo may be a jump-point for Atlantic crossings over to the Caribbean or the Azores for sailors from all over the world as well. Biggest attraction for tourists seems to be an almost never ending beach, some 10 kilometers in length. As we talk to locals, they do assure that Nevertheless, we cannot stop to wonder about Porto Santo. At the same time, Porto Santo features a rich history. As we begin to stroll around soundly, our crew splits, each and every one seems to enjoy some quiet hours alone after 4 days of being cramped into out 14 meter yacht. I want to get to know the island more …. He seems to have fallen in love with this small chunk of earth in the midst of the ocean as we did. A small but bristling harbour, somewhere anybody hjas always something to do, be it the ferry arriving or the fishermen repairing their nets. We occasionally walk over to the marina restaurant which we learn to appreciate, not just for the perfect and free WiFi connection but for their ice cold beverages and delicious daily dishes. No comparison to the other marinas we have and we will visit during our journey, Porto Santo is a quiet, intimate and very beautiful place for its own. It is on this very island where I develop the plan to maybe not bring my own sailing yacht back to the Baltic Sea but to sail her down here to Tenerife or one of the other islands. Because it is so unbelievably beautiful and quiet down here. Next day will be as beautiful and even more warmer than the previous one. Climbing the harbour wall we stand on a sheer endless, some 10 kilometers long perfect sand beach. There are no tourists visible nor local people. I find Porto Santo an interesting island. Two mountains. Some forests. And a beach of course. After lunch Ute goes swimming, Thomas has different things to do and so I pack a small rucksack with apples and water and like small boys, Martin and I decide to climb to the highest elevation of the island. We have to walk over huge landslides, cross the so-called Barrancos, sharp and deep eroded valleys and finally reach the bottom of Pico do Facho where the elevation grade would exceed 45 degrees. When we finally reach the top the view is both fascinating as it is rewarding. To the North a violet Atlantic Ocean would smash its huge waves against the island. Sparsely populated, we can imagine hard and cold winds there. We see cattle on green grassy meadows and nice, newly built Fincas next to ruined remainders of human houses. We also enjoy the rich vegetation — a harbinger of the Flower Island of Madeira. Every now and then blossoms of a wide range of colours will bloom, even small but tasteful sweet wild tomatoes will grow amongst the grassy hills. Exposed to the wind it will turn chilly at an instant, which makes the choice of clothing a tricky one. We take off and turn on our jackets in a matter of minutes. After some three hours we arrive back in sweat from our hiking tour, Martin throws away his clothing and jumps right into the clean turquoise marina from our bathing platform to refresh himself. Enjoying the quite wilderness of Porto Santo is one thing. But this small Island has another face as well: A bristling town with people and cars and shops and rich civilised life going on. As we stroll around in town I am taken with the architecture of the houses: Built from black vulcanic stones, the houses stand tall, most of them feature a green atrium with palms and other plants, mostly flowers of many colours. The streets are narrow, creating a refreshing wind cooling our sweating bodies. I would have loved to set foot on this continent as I have heard so many nice things about Morocco, especially when arriving by yacht. Perfect day! Thomas, the Doctor, has prepared an exact list of what to get and so we search for a market of some kind. And behold, there is a huge supermarket that features all you can dream of and every item you will find in any continental shopping centre as well. I am astonished by the huge choice of fresh fish, meat from any animal you could dream of and a 25 meters long corridor for dairy products only. I love working on the yacht, looking outside from time to time and having a chat with a jetty-neighbour. Marina Porto Santo is a small one. He was preparing and refitting the yacht for the owner — his reward is some weeks solo-sailing with GREEN. He seems a bit puzzled by the sailing characteristics of a pure racer like the Pogo This is what I love about sailing as well: You will always find a friendly skipper to talk to. Apart from great Marcus, I talked to a German couple who was sailing to the Caribbean in their 12 meter custom built steel yacht best daily run 92 miles , a crazy French guy who lived on his Aluminum-three keeled yacht and reminded me of a modern Moitessier. Besides, on him and his boat you can expect an upcoming article. And of course there was this Dutch guy on a wonderfull full-wooden pilot cutter. Sleeping that night is pure treat. I cannot imagine a place other than my bunk where I would like to be now instead. As this Island seems to have putting a good spell on all of us, we decide to stay one another day. We can fully understand the caution of Skipper Hanno. Other skippers seem to have stranded here, as I encounter by strolling the large dry stand area behind the marina. There are a lot of rigged boats on stands, seemingly waiting for their European masters to return them to the water, but also unfinished boats, some hulks, telling a story of people who seem to fulfil their dream of a perfect blue water cruiser here, but also a story of failure. How touching: The waiter of the restaurant will shuttle us from the marina to the remote place. A grill bar at the end of the cliffs in the westernmost part of the island. As the sun goes down we enjoy Tapas, beer and wine, fish and meat by the finest. A perfect ending session to conclude our visit to this fantastic island of Porto Santo. They will head for Marina Calheta on Madeira Island. Having a different interpretation of the general weather situation, their skipper in respect to the fact that amongst the crew of the boat is wife and daughter of the owner, has decided to go directly down to Lanzarote to avoid any strong winds — a wrong decision, as it will turn out later. Skipper Wilfried of our boat decides to leave at 2 a. So the evening passes and we are full of joy about having visited this wonderful place. As I enter the berth I sleep very well. Tomorrow will be our last day here, bidding farewell to all of the boats, readying our boat and leaving for Madeira too. All previous and the upcoming articles on this sailing trip from Lisbon to Lanzarote can be browsed by clicking on this hashtag dufourcanaries. For information and offers on charter trips on the Canaries on these Dufour Yachts please visit www. The smaller brother of Madeira: Porto Santo Porto Santo features one single harbour, both open for a small fleet of fishing boats, the daily ferry to Madeira and of course pleasure craft. Uncountable adventures … Nevertheless, we cannot stop to wonder about Porto Santo. I want to get to know the island more … Whsitle Stop or longer Stay? The Island is small — but virtually untouched by mass tourism No comparison to the other marinas we have and we will visit during our journey, Porto Santo is a quiet, intimate and very beautiful place for its own. Beaches, bathing and walking the Island Next day will be as beautiful and even more warmer than the previous one. Endless beaches — no people at all There are no tourists visible nor local people. After 4 days of sailing, strolling at the beach is a pure treat I find Porto Santo an interesting island. Climbing the steep hills of Porto Santo When we finally reach the top the view is both fascinating as it is rewarding. Civilisation has us again Enjoying the quite wilderness of Porto Santo is one thing. Doing the washing … Marina Porto Santo is a small one. A Pogo 40 approaches the harbour He seems a bit puzzled by the sailing characteristics of a pure racer like the Pogo Fresh air for our much badly treated cooking herbs Sleeping that night is pure treat. The restaurant at the end of the cliff How touching: The waiter of the restaurant will shuttle us from the marina to the remote place.
Catamaran Trip from Porto Santo Stefano on the Argentario Coast
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After the somewhat traumatic trip from Portugal it was a relief to be tied up in the marina and surrounded by such a friendly and welcoming bunch of fellow sailors. We spent a day or so tiding the boat up and making repairs to the main sail which had ejected a batten from its pocket on the first day out from Portugal. You always get chatting to people when you work on the boat, and this was no exception. We had arrived ahead of a wave of boats who obviously waited for our front to pass before leaving and it seemed we were not the only ones to have a bit of a rough crossing. The rain squalls had taken a few people by surprise; that was the easy bit for us! We eventually dug the bikes out. Another couple had road bikes and assured us it was worth the effort. Out came they came in bits and pieces, a wheel or two, saddles, the frames all askew with the handle bars at an awkward but exact angle to fit in the locker. An hour or so later and we had two bikes ready and waiting for our adventures, much to the astonishment of our neighbours. The next day we set off to explore the island, taking some small roads, then the 'main road' out and around the mountain that makes the highest point. The roads were quiet, well paved and mostly an acceptable gradient- although the heat was a bit much at times and we did stop at village water taps for a dousing whenever we passed them. The island is quite arid, not being tall enough to catch the rain clouds as neighbouring Madeira does. The north coast was a bit greener but not much, what greenery there was was cacti and pine trees. Another ride took us out behind the airport onto quadbike tracks that criss-cross the dry plain in the middle of the island. This was a bit like cycling on Mars I imagine , loads of red dust, gnarly rocks and steep gullys to play in. It was really fun, and fortunately nobody broke a clavicle! A highlight was to ride down the length of the island along to Calhetta on the western point. Here we would stop for a coffee, a pastel de nata and a coke because we were far too hot! The waitress knew our order by the second day and we became regulars. After our post ride refreshment it would be back along the straight road to the marina at the eastern point with a sprint finish for a road sign just before the road ran out. If we were feeling super keen we went up to an abandoned go kart track and did a few laps of that in homage to our Dunkerswell racing days of past. It's good to test your cornering every now and then, I still have it. We had 10 days at Porto Santo, we never planned to stay that long! But the cheap marina rates and fabulous cycling were really hard to leave. We had a good routine of getting up and going for a ride or doing a boat job before it got too hot. Then in the afternoon we would head to the beach and mess about in the sea to cool down. It was really quite a step change from Portugal where the winter chill was making itself felt. This is, I guess, why people do it! The question of carrying on to the Caribbean had been lingering after the tough trip to Porto Santo. After a bit of time out, relaxing and assessing our options, as well as talking to people who had 20 years cruising experience and who assured us it was 'easy from here' and absolutely worth it, then we both felt a bit more confident to carry on Little did we know, but we sorted most of it out in our next port of call on Madeira. Sometimes it just feels like everything is going your way at last, and Porto Santo was that tipping point for us! PS: Sorry for our washed out photos- on the bike we use our waterproof, knock proof camera which has a problem with exposure in sunny landscapes. Its the same on passage, and normally the lens is filthy too Share this.
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