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We had spent the morning of our second Sunday in Slovakia visiting Bardejov, and then arrived in Poprad at to meet Paula. But today, unfortunately, it was cloudy and raining, and we could not see the mountains at all. Paula directed us through the main part of Poprad, which is actually rather spread out, with lots of trees and open spaces between the major buildings. We passed some apartment blocks, stores, a hospital, two hotels, and a couple of modern glass buildings that housed banks. She said that the bankers make the most money. Near the edge of the city, we saw the Winter Stadium, which was a center for hocky, football soccer , and tennis. Beyond that were acres and acres of communal gardens which seemed large enough to accommodate everyone who lived in Poprad. Paula mentioned that Poprad has the highest airport in the middle of Europe. Many people fly to Poprad and then take the trains to the various High Tatras mountain resorts. We noticed a nice-looking penzion called the Penzion Dagmar. We saw another patch of intensively-cultivated communal gardens, and went on to a residential area with modern single-family houses. Paula explained that there had been very little house construction since the end of the communist era, because no one could afford it. We finally got the answer to one question that had been bothering us since we first got to Slovakia. We had noticed that in all the larger towns and cities, all of the houses had two separate numbers displayed on the front. We asked Paula about this, and she explained that the red number was the street number, as we use in the United States, and the black number was a unique number of the house within the town. In Poprad, that number was into 4 digits. The next thing we saw was a big Billa store, a new enterprise run by an Austrian parent company. This was a big WalMart-style grocery store, set in the middle of an extensive parking lot, and painted in bright orange and yellow stripes. For one thing, it was open on a Sunday, which was pretty unusual in this area. We decided to stop by and check it out. What we found was an American-style supermarket — brightly lit with wide aisles and a big selection of stuff. They had an interesting system for keeping their grocery carts from wandering off. At the place where you picked up your cart, each cart connected to the one in front by a small chain that terminated in a coin box. You had to put a 5 or 10 crown coin in the box to release the chain. Later, when you were done shopping and put your cart back in the row, you could hook up the chain, and your coin deposit would be released. Paula had to explain the system to another shopper who had never used it before. Jan is the son of Marta and the grandson of Anna, which makes him my second cousin. The outside was a little barren, with no landscaping and a muddy parking lot, but the inside was very modern and comfortable. My father said that it would be good if he could get a modem so that he could communicate with us via e-mail. She put in a rock and roll disc, but my father requested some traditional Slovak music. So then she put in a polka disc, and before we knew it we were all taking turns dancing the polka with each other in the small room. It was fun. After the polka, we all sat down in the living room and talked with a bit more decorum, as Slavka brought us a big array of food — plates of meat, eggs, bread, coffee, tea, soda, chips, cake, and pickles. We were surprised that there was no liquor served. Jan explained that his father had a drinking problem, and so with that example in front of him, he had decided that he would not drink. My father said that he admired him for that resolution. As we talked, a tennis competition was on the television, and we watched as Karina Habsudova of Bratislava managed such a powerful serve that she broke the tie-down strap on the net, and had to wait for it to be replaced. I was envious of the way their TV station covered the tennis match. There were fewer breaks for commercials, which left more time for replays and analysis, including closeup views of fine points like footwork. Jan and Slavka told us that they did not speak any English, but their daughters are learning English in school. This was demonstrated by the younger daughter, Mischka, who counted from one to ten in English. You can see her in the family picture below. I was then called upon to count in Slovak. I almost got stuck at four, but finally got it, and managed to get all the way up to ten. Paula was very pleased. I said that the rafting looked like fun, and Jan said that they would take me with them the next time I came to Slovakia. We talked about the difficulty of traveling to the United States. He said there were people on the waiting list. This is because many people intend to stay illegally in the United States. It is thought that if you can work in the U. He said that he would like to send his oldest daughter Mirka for a visit when she gets a little older. My father said he would be happy to take care of her when she came. Slavka shown here with her daughter Mirka works in an electronics assembly plant. Jan was trained as an engineer, and used to work on highway construction and water filtration plants. But since the communists left, no highways are being built, so now he supervises housing construction. However, only 40 houses have been built in the last 3 years in Poprad. A new house costs 36 million crowns nearly 1 million dollars. He said that the government officials took property for themselves. He himself had not been paid for 3 months. They stopped building highways due to lack of money and 30, people lost their jobs on the highways. Yet they still had to pay laid-off workers 5 months salary, which was wasteful, and now they are being paid unemployment. He said that they Czech Republic has been bought up by German investors, and the new government will allow the same to happen with Slovakia. After this intense political discussion, Slavka brought us a lovely dinner, a nice rich stew served over rice. I was also surprised to hear that Jan had cooked the stew, although Slavka had made the pastries we were served earlier. We talked a little about climate, which was difficult because of the need to convert temperatures from fahrenheit to centigrade and vice versa. Luckily, I remembered the formula, so was able to work it out. Jan said that the temperature in Poprad in the summer averaged from 22 to 28 degrees centigrade, which I calculated was only 72 to 82 fahrenheit. I told him that our part of the United States went up to 32 centigrade 90 fahrenheit in the summer. The winter temperature in Slovakia, however, goes down to fahrenheit , and sometimes as low as fahrenheit! We told them about the time we lived in Duluth, Minnesota, where it gets that cold. Jan told us a little more about his life. So instead he went into the army. Then he passed the exam for studying architecture, but was unable to follow up on that because he had to marry. My father also talked about his early career — how he started out working in a factory, but was able to attend college on the G. Bill, and then went into government service in the Customs Service. On Monday, we planned once again to do some sight-seeing on our own. This was our last chance to visit the High Tatras, and even though the day dawned cloudy, we decided to go ahead with our plan. We had our usual breakfast at the Hotel Barbakan, where the elegant dining room had a habit of playing American popular music. Which my father deplored, and I usually found intrusive. It got my day off to a bouncy start. I was shocked to find that the exchange rate had dropped in our favor, even during the week we were in Slovakia. We did notice a sign for an English-language club that met weekly; I thought it would have been fun to attend if we had been there on the right day, and give people a chance to practice their English on us. We also found a computer store, with some young people who spoke English. My father enquired about Slovak-language fonts, but it appeared that the only way he could get them was to buy a complete operating system disk, which was a bit too much. He also picked up a flyer about Web access, which was available in Poprad. Later we got Paula to help us translate it which was difficult because of all the technical terms , but it did appear that the cost was about the same as it is in the U. Of course if the absolute cost is the same, the relative cost is much higher because the average salaries in Slovakia are so much lower than ours. We looked inside the main hotel, called the Hotel Club, which looked very comfortable, and which offered various activities, including horseback riding trips, which appealed to me. We also browsed in a craft store and a very nice book store, where I finally found the beautiful coffee-table book the Torysky priest had shown us, plus a Slovak edition of The Hobbit. I asked about songbooks and was directed next door to a music store, which had a nice selection of books of Slovak folk songs, and I picked out one to buy. For lunch, we went to a restaurant which was on the second floor overlooking the main square and the town hall, shown above. The waiter spoke English and was wearing a tie featuring Disney cartoon characters. I had garlic soup and some sort of turkey thing. After lunch, we drove west directly toward the High Tatras. We would have had a spectacular view if the weather had been nicer; as it was, we only got a glimpse of the peaks through the clouds and fog every now and then. The road directly up the mountain until we were just below treeline, where it intersected the main road that ran along the flank of the mountains, linking all of the main resort areas. The resort areas were very nice, with modern accommodations, restaurants and gift shops, and even a little bit of landscaping, which was not something I saw very much of in Slovakia. The rain we had been having in the lowlands had turned to snow up here in the mountains, so there was a light accumulation of snow on the ground, but the roads were clear. We stopped in one of the resort areas — I think it was Stary Smokevec — to browse through the shops. We found one very nice glassware shop, where I picked up a set of small cut-crystal glasses for a souvenir. As we drove west toward Strbske Pleso, which was the highest of the resort areas, the snow on the ground got deeper, and it actually started snowing a little bit. We had dinner, then watched a sad romantic movie on TV, which ended with a beautiful woman walking slowly into a lake until the water closed over her head because her former lover had rejected her. Not understanding Slovak, it was hard to tell for sure. Continue to Part Your email address will not be published. Notify me of new posts by email. We picked up a few snack items, then had to move on to meet Jan Petak. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published.

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