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For some reason I had fixed in my mind that the chateau was on rather large main square with a pub on one corner, so I expected that the direct bus from Prague would drop me off there. She answered affirmatively. There was no big square with a pub. The main square was hardly a square at all, just a few buildings along the main street with a small parking lot. I got off the bus, feeling utterly lost. Luckily, a passerby pointed out how to get to the chateau. I walked by a decent-looking restaurant. I wondered if it was the only one in town. I hoped I would be able to get a table there later in the day. I entered the main gate of the chateau, eager to become reacquainted with the place. The gentle, soft tones of classical music also filled the air. The atmosphere made me feel at ease on this sunny, warm, spring day. I noticed that the wall of the chateau facing the fountain was covered in what I would later find out were 16 th and 17 th century frescoes depicting six Roman emperors and a battle. The 16th and 17th century frescoes of six Roman emperors and a battle. I sat on a bench and read a David Hewson mystery in English for a while, feeling relaxed and enthusiastic, after walking to the pond with gazebo. The flowers in the garden were ravishing, in full bloom, bringing vibrant colors to the natural setting. The establishment featured plush couches and armchairs, one of which I sunk into. The pastel colors decorating the space were lively, vibrant. It was also very quaint. I sipped a cappuccino before heading for the box office to start my tour. While the first written records of what was then a stronghold dated back to , the chateau was transformed into Renaissance style in the 16 th century, renovated into a Neo-Gothic style during the 19 th century and then changed back to Renaissance style at the beginning of the 20 th century. The Sternberg family has owned the chateau for 11 generations, dating back to , when Count Adolph Vratislav Sternberg, the Highest Burgrave in Bohemia, purchased it. From to — not counting the Nazi Occupation of the country — Sternbergs have lived here. The chateau was returned to interior designer Diana Phipps Sternberg in , and at that time she was residing in one wing where she also had a pension. Soon it was time to see the interior of the Renaissance architectural masterpiece. It featured furnishings from the 16 th to the 19 th century, and the many family portraits attested to the significant role of the Sternberg dynasty. To be sure, the interior was more than impressive: Take the Gallery of the Bohemian Kings, for instance. In the Dining Room overwhelming, mammoth portraits of four Bohemian kings filled me with awe. I felt so small compared to the vast portraits. Breathtaking as well were the portraits of seven Habsburg Emperors who ruled from to Two portraits of the Spanish side of the Habsburg dynasty plus three others hung nearby. What is more, the painted coffered ceiling, another architectural thrill, illustrated a biblical scene from the Old Testament. I was particularly drawn to her painting. I gazed up at the coffered ceiling, which shows 24 pictures from the Old Testament. I noticed that the marble fireplace had a bronze relief in the middle; it showed a woman praying. In yet another, a woman donning a serious expression and dressed in black stood next to blooming pink roses. I found the juxtaposition of her black attire and the pink roses intriguing. The adjoining chapel was a real gem, too. The painted doors depicted the 12 apostles, and the painted pews were adorned with floral decoration, which immediately caught my eye. I thought this was an impressive, unique touch. The wooden altar dated from , and one of the frescoes inside the chapel harkened back to the Late Gothic period. While family portraits were scattered throughout the chateau, there were other intriguing paintings as well. A copy of a portrait by Rubens, depicting his second wife, Helen Fourment, hailed from One painting that drew me into its artistic power was the head of Medusa, with bulging eyes and blue and golden snakes slithering around her head; it was another painting after Rubens. Slavata lived through the ordeal as he landed on a pile of manure, but was then arrested. The ordeal reminded me of the black humor in the stories and novels by Czech legendary writer Bohumil Hrabal. Paintings of Venice, specifically of St. Realistic paintings from the Netherlands adorned the chateau, too. I have been fascinated by art from that country ever since taking a course about it in college. In one small portrait, a poor man is eating fish, the bones and head left on the plate he is holding. Another picture from this era depicted a man reading, though he seems lost in thought. The guide pointed out four portraits of women representing the four seasons. Dating from the middle of the 18 th century, they included a woman holding grapes for autumn and one holding a flower for spring. If you look closely, the guide explained, it was possible to discern that one woman was the subject of all the portraits, and she aged as each season went by. I was intrigued by these four unique works of art. Numerous other objects of interest cropped up in the chateau. There was a year old Mignon portable folding typewriter and a portable, folding Napoleonic desk in the Empire Room, both of which caught my attention. The Biedermeier Room boasted furniture of that style. I was impressed by the many military medals that the general donned. I loved Flemish tapestries! Two mirrors seemed to be decorated with small gem stones in the frames, but it was just imitation, painted under the glass. I found it to be a nice, elegant touch to the interior. The Wallpaper Room gets its name from gold-and-black wallpaper that imitated leather, though it was made of paper. In the library, which contains political and religious books as well as novels and poetry written in Latin, English, German, French and Czech, I saw a tapestry showing Cleopatra and Mark Antony. It was Flemish, from around Another thrill for me! The flowers bursting with color in the garden. The Renaissance arcaded Gallery, with its vibrant dark pink walls and flourishing plants, featured lavish silver-framed mirrors that dated from the Second Baroque period. I marveled at the elegance of the elaborate silver frames. It was almost all white, with dolls, portraits of children and a dollhouse, exuding a sense of purity. After the breathtaking tour, I walked to the only restaurant in sight and found a table outside. Again I was able to order my favorite — chicken with peaches and cheese — plus a Diet Coke. After a delicious lunch, I made my way to the bus stop to wait 20 minutes. I always arrived early because I was always nervous I would miss my bus. And it did. I watched it whiz by the other bus stop, without even slowing down. I was at the wrong stop! I chided myself for being so stupid. I had thought the bus would come to this stop and turn around. I sure felt like an idiot! Then I thought that maybe it was a blessing in disguise. I read about another murder in front of the Baroque fountain. So, I got there at , determined not to miss this bus as it was the last direct one to Prague. Shortly after I arrived, five others with big duffle bags and shopping bags gathered there, too. Then, a little after , a bus to Prague showed up. Bewildered at the timing of its arrival, I got on and made my way back to Prague. Tracy A. Burns is a writer, editor and proofreader in Prague. The moment I reached the entrance to the castle ruin in northern Moravia, I was beside myself. The views to the gentle, green Beskydy Mountains, which loomed in the distance, were magnificent. I saw picturesque, romantic villages in undulating valleys, the lush green of the mountains surrounding the dots that made up the small towns. I wondered if I could see the Polish or Slovak border. The views from the castle ruins are breathtaking. Upon entering the castle ruins, I was in for an even bigger surprise. The castle ruins were just as romantic and picturesque as were the views from the wall at the entrance. All those compositions inspired by Moravian folk music, the unique melodies and specific, repeating motifs. The monument dates from around From that point on, the Olomouc bishopric and later archbishopric were almost continually the owners of Hukvaldy until it became state property in The castle became a ruin in the 18th century. The once vibrant castle became a ruin in , when a fire broke out after lightning struck the fortress. The castle had a famous prisoner, too. Philip Dambrovsky was accused of poisoning four Olomouc bishops. As I walked through the gates and courtyards, strolled around the bastions, peeked into the cellars and took note of the destroyed buildings that were once occupied by the burgrave, I felt energized from the power that was emitted by the stone walls and fragments, as if this place had a significant story to tell and was telling that story as I stepped through its magical gates. Hukvaldy is, indeed, magical. Burns is a writer, proofreader and editor in Prague. The views of the mountains in the distance are sure to amaze. The facade of the chateau. The Baroque fountain. The picturesque courtyard. The view from the park. The park. Another shot of the frescoes. The frescoes and the arcades. The chateau from the park. The stunning chateau from the park. The breathtaking view from Hukvaldy Castle. The castle ruins. Another breathtaking view. The castle dates from the 13th century. The ruins even have their own ghosts. A view through the ruin. Another view of the ruin. The magical countryside. Subscribe Subscribed. Tracy's Travels. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website.

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