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Woodworking is an important part of any contractor’s job, whether you specialize in carpentry or offer general services to clients. Using pocket holes to screw together two sides of a joint is an effective technique that comes with a number of benefits, including saving time and effort without sacrificing quality.
A pocket hole is a form of joinery that creates a tight bond between two pieces of wood without using glue. The screw is drilled in at a 15-degree angle. But first, a pocket hole is drilled into to create the perfect entry angle for the screw. The hole for the screw allows the head to lay flush within the pocket hole and the two pieces of wood are held securely together without needing wood glue. Pocket holes can be used with all types of wood and only requires a few specialized tools to get the job done.
Pocket holes are often used in building furniture, cabinets, decks, stairs, and other carpentry projects. This process offers several benefits.
Here’s what you’ll need for pocket hole joinery.
Follow these 5 steps for creating a pocket hole.
MT Copeland offers video-based online classes that give you a foundation in construction fundamentals with real-world applications, like introduction to cabinetry . Classes include professionally produced videos taught by practicing craftspeople, and supplementary downloads like quizzes, blueprints, and other materials to help you master the skills.
How to Cut a Mortise and Tenon Joint
A Guide To Dowel Joints & How To Make Them
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Whether you own a pocket-hole jig or are considering buying one, these shop-won insights will help you get more from your jig.
WOOD Magazine Staff March 29, 2019
Each product we feature has been independently selected and reviewed by our editorial team. If you make a purchase using the links included, we may earn commission.
These screws won't hold as wellthreaded into end grain. Instead,drill the pockets on the rail anddrive screws into edge grain ofthe stile.
Use fine-thread screws forhardwoods. Use coarse-threadscrews for softwoods, MDF,particleboard, and plywood.
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Make precise, square cuts. When making projects with right angles, such as cabinets or face frames, square cuts ensure square assemblies. Set your tablesaw's blade precisely 90° to the tabletop before cutting parts to size, and make sure your miter gauge is exactly 90° to the blade. Anything less will result in gaps or unsquare joints. If you cut stock on a mitersaw, tune it up as well.
Plan your work, work your plan. After cutting but before drilling, lay out project parts in the orientation you want, and then mark the back faces, as shown below . Be sure to also draw other layout marks, such as where a middle rail lines up with the stiles. Then drill pocket holes into the marked faces to prevent accidentally drilling into the best face.
Grab the best grain. Drill pocket holes so screws thread into edge or face grain for maximum purchase; avoid screwing into end grain, as shown below.
Set the correct pocket depth. For strongest joints, set the stop collar according to your jig's instructions. The pilot point should stop 1 ⁄ 8 " from the workpiece's end or edge, as shown below . Check this each time you use the jig to avoid accidentally drilling too deep.
High speed = cleaner holes. A corded drill bores a cleaner hole than a cordless one because of its faster bit speed. Excessive tear-out around the pocket could indicate a dull bit. Keep a second bit on hand so you can switch to it when the first begins to dull.
Smooth the way. Before drilling, spray the bit with a dry lubricant, such as Bostik BladeCote , to reduce drilling friction and prolong sharpness. Repeat after every 20 or so holes.
Clear chips frequently. Pull the bit out when you've reached about half depth to clear the chips; then finish drilling. This reduces friction and bit dulling.
Match up different thicknesses. When joining boards of two different thicknesses edge-to-edge or end-to-edge, as shown below , set the pocket-hole depth for the thinner board. If joining boards end-to-face or edge-to-face, such as in a table apron to the top, set the depth for the thickness of the board with the pockets, regardless of which is thinner, and then use a shorter screw if necessary.
Choose the right screws. Coarse-thread pocket screws hold best in softer woods, such as pine, cedar, and poplar, as well as plywood; use fine-thread screws for hardwoods. Choose the length based on the workpiece thickness, as shown in the chart below.
Most pocket-hole screws come with an oversized washer head for increased contact with the pocket shoulder, but you can also get screws with a smaller pan head for use with shallow pockets where a washer head would protrude above the workpiece surface. For outdoor applications, choose stainless steel or coated screws. Never use drywall screws -- they break easily while driving, and their tapered ("bugle") heads can split the bottoms of the pocket shoulders.
Don't forget the glue. Screws alone make a plenty-strong pocket-hole joint, but adding glue helps prevent a joint from opening up due to seasonal shrinking and swelling.
Clamp across a joint whenever possible, see photo below , to avoid the parts creeping out of alignment as you snug up the screws. Clamp parts to a perfectly flat surface so the front faces align. (If one of the parts is offset, shim below it, if needed.) When screwing an edge to a face, such as the table shown below, always clamp the assembly securely before driving screws.
Learn to drive a clutch. Although handy for driving fasteners, avoid using an impact driver for driving pocket screws. Because you can't see the screw snug up against the pocket's shoulder, the tool's high torque can easily strip out the screw hole. Instead, use a drill or cordless screwdriver with an adjustable clutch, set to pull together joints without stripping out the holes.

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The Basics of Pocket Hole Joinery
By: Ted Raife
Fast, accurate, versatile, and strong — do you need more reasons to give pocket hole joinery technique a try?

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When it comes to designing and building projects, I've never been a woodworking purist. I usually don't worry too much about whether a joinery technique is considered "traditional". I try to focus on a more important goal - finding a good balance between appearance, structural strength, and efficient methods and techniques. In other words, will it get the job done and will it hold up?
This is one reason why I'm not the least bit reluctant to use pocket hole joinery when building a project. It's a quick, accurate, and reliable way to join the parts of a project together.
To reduce it to a basic level, pocket hole joinery is simply assembly using screws. But when you take a closer look, there's a bit more to it than appears on the surface. This level of sophistication and ingenuity is what makes pocket hole joinery such a valuable technique for a range of applications.
THE BASICS. In a nutshell, here's how it works. An angled pilot hole is drilled into the face of one of the mating pieces near the end. The shallow angle of the pilot hole allows the pocket screw to exit the end of the workpiece and enter the edge of the mating piece, pulling them tightly together. A quick glance at the two photos above will give you the idea.
The key to this technique is the ability to drill the angled pocket holes accurately. This is accomplished with the help of a pocket hole jig. All you have to do is set up the jig to drill the pocket holes and then install the screws. The entire operation can be performed in a matter of minutes.
WHERE & WHY? Speed is just one of the benefits of using pocket hole joinery. Another advantage is versatility, as illustrated by the photos below. You can use it to join two pieces of wood in just about any configuration - end to edge, end to face, mitered - you name it. Consequently, the uses of pocket hole joinery in the construction of a project are almost unlimited.
Assembling structural frames and cabinet face frames is a common application.
Another plus is that the bond created is immediate. Although clamps are usually needed for assembly, once the screws are inserted, the clamps can be removed.
I like to take advantage of the self-clamping feature of pocket hole joinery by using it in conjunction with other types of joinery. The photo above shows how pocket screws can substitute for clamps as well as add reinforcement to standard case joints.
WHAT ABOUT STRENGTH? In terms of strength, a pocket hole joint performs quite respectably. Although generally not as strong as a mortise and tenon or a comparable glue joint, a pocket hole joint is the equal of many of the other "quick and easy" joinery techniques such as a biscuit joint, a loose tenon, or a stub tenon and groove.
The only real drawback to pocket hole joinery is that the oval-shaped pocket holes are visible on one face. However, in many instances, the holes can be drilled on an unseen face. Or if not, they can be disguised with special plugs.
THE JIGS. As I mentioned, what makes pocket hole joinery possible is the use of a specialized jig (and bit) to drill the holes. In order for the screw to make the connection, the pocket holes have to be drilled at a precise angle of 15º. It isn't practical to attempt this freehand or even on the drill press. So basically, a pocket hole jig acts as a drilling guide . Depending on the style of jig you use, the workpiece is either clamped in the jig or the jig is clamped to the workpiece. Then, a steel sleeve in the jig keeps the bit on track while drilling the angled hole.
THE BIT. A special stepped drill bit is used along with a jig. As you can see in the main photo at the top of the page, in one operation the bit drills a flat-bottomed counterbore for the head of the screw and short pilot hole for the shank.
The pocket hole accommodates a pocket screw. These are hardened, self-tapping screws with a wide washerhead and deep threads. Even with fairly shallow penetration, a pocket screw provides a remarkable amount of holding power.
There are a handful of pocket hole jig makers, but one company - Kreg Tool -
dominates this field. (A pocket hole jig is often simply referred to as a Kreg
jig.) As anyone who's used a Kreg jig will confirm, their products are well-designed, well-manufactured, and consequently, very easy to use. T
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