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How Pink Hair Came to Define the Aesthetic of COVID-19
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“Very often, pink is thought to have a calming effect.”
Rose gold, pastel pink, neon shades of coral: A simple scroll through Instagram or Tiktok immediately proves that pink hair is as common today as any natural hue. Especially during the pandemic, I’ve seen friends, colleagues, and strangers take the pink plunge, whether it’s for the first time or as a color people return to out of nostalgia. That’s in addition to the countless celebs, including Kaia Gerber, Ashanti, Paris Hilton, Lady Gaga, Ariel Winter, and Charli D'Amelio, who have transitioned to various shades of pink in the past few months.
Why is 2020 the prime time for pink manes? The color has been having a moment for years and it's not going anywhere soon, it's just evolving. Many people have decided to try pink hair during this time because they're bored with isolation or have a strong urge to change up their appearance. Elena Kanagy-Loux, a collections specialist at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, has been coloring her hair a rainbow of hues for nearly two decades, but recently went back to one of her roots. “Pink was my favorite color as a child, but it wasn’t until I saw celebrities like Gwen Stefani with pink hair that I realized you could dye your [hair] any color you wanted,” she says. “I recall wanting pink hair as early as elementary school, and using colorful hair mascara to achieve pink highlights.”
“In isolation I got the urge to change it up and try something different, and I think perhaps that’s the same feeling that led so many people to try pink hair,” adds Kanagy-Loux. “Everything felt so terrifying and uncertain in the early days of the pandemic, and changing my hair color gave me something to put energy towards that wasn’t stressful and that I could control.”
Similarly, Marisa Ravel, creative director of the accessories brand Laser Kitten, has had pink hair for three years and now considers it her natural hair color – so much so that she sells enamel pins that read, “Pink is my natural color.” “It's been my favorite color since I can remember,” she says. “When Gwen did it back in the late 1990s, I was obsessed. I guess that stuck with me. About 10 years ago I wore a pink wig as Jem for Halloween and loved the way it made me feel. Pink hair also makes me feel like an anime character, which brings a sense of fantasy to my daily life.”
Even those who have never tried unusual colors are going pink. “I was sitting at home in April, alone in my apartment, and randomly went shopping on Poshmark and purchased a pink conditioner,” recalls Alexis Curtis. “I tried it and was addicted, which made me want to fully dye my hair pink at the hair salon when the salons opened back up. Now I can maintain it with the conditioner, which is super-simple to do.”
Perhaps the pink-hair obsession also has a lot to do with the fact that many of us are forgoing the full face of makeup we used to wear before the pandemic. Pink hair is one fun beauty change that requires little maintenance; it’s like a real-life filter for your hair that you only have to put minimal effort into.
And perhaps there’s something even bigger behind all the pink-hair transitions happening during COVID-19. Having pink hair can alter your mood in a positive way, according to psychologists. “It's not actually a function of hair color, it's more an expression of self-expression that makes one feel good,” says Michael Mazius, Ph.D., behavioral psychologist. “Right now there isn't much happening. Finding safe and creative ways to make one feel better, in this case dyeing hair, is especially key.” Increased time on screens, including Zoom and Instagram stories with distinct, appearance-changing filters, can also cause anxiety, stress, and feelings of wanting or needing to change one’s look, according to Mazius: “Going for a bold, happy color like pink can be a healthy way to express oneself and counteract the negative feelings from filters."
Some neuropsychologists see pink hair as being comforting too. “Pink is the color of the ‘universal’ love of oneself and of others,” explains Sanam Hafeez, Ph.D., a neuropsychologist at Columbia University. “Very often, pink is thought to have a calming effect. It is not a 'loud' color like yellow or orange. As most of us lounge around in scruffy clothes like sweatshirts, sweatpants, in little-to-no makeup and messy hair, pink hair is a way of bringing out our softer side in a way that does not require everyday upkeep and is not expensive.”
According to hair historian Rachael Gibson, the history of pink hair in the mainstream dates back hundreds of years. “An early example of pink hair as a trend would be in the 17th and 18th century, when hair powders for wigs came in fashion shades of pink and other pastels,” she says. “These powders, which were often scented with lavender or other flower essences, were used by men and women.” She references a pink-powdered wig portrait by John Smart, circa 1770, wherein a man wearing a jacket has distinctly pastel-pink hair.
One of the most interesting things about pink hair, however, is the ebb and flow of what it has represented. Over time it has stood as a symbol for the upper class (think: expensive wigs in the 18th century), gone mainstream, and also represented subcultures on society's fringes. “With advances in modern hair colorants in the 1950s, we started to see more widespread use of color and tinting,” Gibson explains. “British hairdresser Raymond Bessone, known as ‘Mr. Teasy Weasy,’ was famous for creating elaborate and flamboyant looks in his various TV appearances and often created brightly hued looks to compliment a head-to-toe look. Think Shirley MacLaine in What A Way To Go, [from] 1964.”
As early as the 1970’s, pink hair and other nonnatural colors came to represent subcultures like punk and goth. “Although pink can be a fairly subtle color, it still marked wearers as an outlier,” Gibson says. “In the punk era, vivid colors were contrasted with harsh styles (think spikes and shaved heads), playing with the feminine connotations of pink and the aggressive shapes being formed. Musicians like Gwen Stefani, in the 1990s, were also poster girls for pink, creating DIY-feel colors that at once played up to and challenged ideas of hyperfemininity.”
Stefani's pink hair of the '90s is a nostalgic memory for many, but other celebrities also adopted the look and helped make it iconic. It’s not unusual to see photographs of a pink-haired Kate Moss from the 1990s re-grammed. And in the past few years, beginning in 2010, pink hair exploded in popularity, spanning gender, race, and age. It’s hard to name a celeb who hasn’t tried it: Fernanda Ly, Rihanna, Kim Kardashian, Lil’ Kim, Demi Lovato, Nicki Minaj, Katy Perry; even Zayn Malik and Kanye West made it their signature at one point or other.
Aura Friedman, celebrity colorist at Sally Hershberger, agrees that pink hair really hit its stride in the past 10 years. She remembers 2009, when she first started putting pink in her clients' hair, such as Lady Gaga. “It went from pink pastels to all the other pastels,” she says. “There was a moment for hot pink or neon pink, white pink; it was crazy. Pink is the gateway drug of doing funky hair colors. People tend to want to try pink before they want to try something like blue, which is much harder to remove. Pink always has such a nice fade too.”
“I think the popularity of pink amongst celebrities and on social media has no doubt played a part," says Gibson. "They show us diverse ways to wear pink, including very subtle updates, and also show that it’s wearable and not as out there and edgy as it once was. The improvements in color technology also mean there’s little-to-no compromise condition on the hair, so you can still have healthy hair and be quite bold.”
Friedman thinks there’s another major reason pink hair has come to represent the most widespread beauty trend of 2020: “The nice thing about pink is there's just so many options that work for every single ethnicity,” she adds. “That's another amazingly magical thing. Like, if you look at my Instagram, you can see pink hair on a Black girl, and then Ashley Smith, or Lion Babe. There's just so many different options. You can pick out so many skin tones and so many different ethnicities and [they] all look like little magical unicorns with their pink hair.”
“Pink is hopeful. We're all going through so much stress, who doesn't want the color of bubble gum, flowers, babies, girls, cotton candy, and all these wonderful things?” Friedman says. “I think it helps people take their minds off all the crazy things that are happening right now. It means love and it means romance, and it means the opposite of everything that's happening right now.”
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