Phat Diem Cathedral
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Phat Diem Cathedral
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Phat Diem Stone Cathedral is an impressive structure with four roofs standing on six sets of pillars made of iron and wood. It was built sometime between 1875 and 1899. It is surrounded by ponds, lakes, manmade caves and churches.
Even a Catholic cathedral but Phat Diem is modeled after the traditional architecture of a Vietnamese pagoda. Located in Kim Son Dist, Ninh Binh , about 120 kilometers (75 miles) from Hanoi. It is known as the unique complex with a good combination in term of architecture between modern European and traditional oriental.
Please see the map below for the location of Phat Diem Cathedral.
The priest Tran Luc “Cu Sau in Vietnamese” is the one who ordered the construction of the cathedral. It took 24 years to complete the cathedral.
In 1954, the cathedral was temporarily closed and now it is known as the worshipping place for many Catholic followers in the regions.
In 1972, part of the cathedral was destroyed during the Vietnam war.
From 1994 to 2000, it was under renovated in order to keep the safety of the structures.
Phat Diem Stone Cathedral, Ninh Binh
The most convenient way is to travel by limousine Dcar offered by Binh Minh Limousine with comfortable seats departs at FLC building (36 Pham Hung), drop off at most of the famous tourist attractions in Ninh Binh such as Tam Coc, Thung Nham, Trang An, Hoa Lu and Phat Diem Cathedral. Ticket costs 250k per person and it takes 2.5 hours to Phat Diem. Booking a ticket on the online platform VeXeRe
Otherwise, there is another choice to go by a local bus depart from Southern Bus Terminal ( Ben Xe khach phia Nam ). Go to the ticket booth and find a bus to Kim Son, Ninh Binh and ticket costs 70k but they do pick up passengers along the way, it also takes 2.5 hours. This is an option for those who want to travel on a tight budget.
Private transfer arranged by the hotel where you are staying is a good choice because you can combine with other nearby attractions. For a day trip, I recommend going to Phat Diem Cathedral, Van Long Nature Reserve (Galaxy Grotto) . For both of these options, you can also take a bike ride with a local guide to explore rural areas and the stunning beauty of limestone karst mountain surroundings.
If money matter isn’t a big deal, then going on a guided tour with a private guide and a private car . The cost is up to $100 USD per person includes a private transfer, guide, lunch, entrance fee, a water bottled per person.
Phuong Dinh Church is an imposing stone building located in the Phat Diem complex . You can see beautiful stone sculptures on the walls of the church. There is a large bell in the bell tower cast in 1890 that weighs about two tons.
There are four smaller churches around the Phuong Dinh Church. Three stone caves can be seen in the north, the most beautiful being Lo Duc Grotto.
The massive structure of Phat Diem Stone Cathedral is surrounded by paddy fields and several small stone churches. All these small churches look like typical churches of that era built by the Europeans.
The Phat Diem Stone Cathedral was designed and built by Father Sau , a Vietnamese priest and includes five side chapels, an artificial lake, a bell tower, and three artificial grottoes. Grahan Greene has described the cathedral as a massive structure with huge pillars made out of a single tree trunk.
The cathedral is featured with exclusive scarlet lacquer word at the altar, a multi-tiered curling roof with 48 wooden columns. The largest column weighs seven tons. Phat Diem is far removed from the usual European cathedral. The walls are sculptured with angels overlooking carved dragons. The two-ton bell in the bell tower has a gigantic brass gong.
The bombings in 1972 by US air force during Vietnam War razed two side chapels to the ground but the Phat Diem Stone Cathedral miraculously escaped unscathed although it did lean by about twenty degrees. Despite the war, restoration started instantly. The only trace of the bombing today is that some stone carvings were destroyed. Every year a midnight mass is held on Christmas in the cathedral grounds accompanied by a brass band and attended by thousands of people
The hall at Phat Diem Stone Cathedral
The cathedral is known as a former capital of Vietnamese Catholics. The total size is about 3000 square meters (32.000 square feet). A priest, Cu Sau (The sixth Grandfather), is the one who built this cathedral within 24 years from 1875 to 1899.
After well-researched in term of history and topography, the 6th father decided to choose Kim Son to build this cathedral for Catholicism. In 1965, Mr Sau started to find and collect materials. In 1975, it was officially started to build.
According to written documents, it was really hard work but all done by hand. There was a piece of wood up to 7 tons or piece of a marble stone up to 20 tons, was transferred by rudimentary methods in the late 19th century. It was made of natural stone, jade and ironwood.
In order to get the materials, locals had to transfer stones both by mainland and waterway from somewhere a couple of hundred kilometers from here. Artisans cut big stones over 20 tons into smaller pieces mixed with sugar cage oil and caustic lime in order to create a single building in the whole complex.
The heart church – Phat Diem Cathedral
The name “Phat Diem” means “light up the beauty”. What makes it different from any others cathedrals all over Vietnam is its materials, majority from natural stone, jade and ironwood. Combing with manual building methods which makes a massive cathedral. The stone used for construction called yin-yang stone which is good for heath
As a Vietnamese, but Grand Farther Sau soon got to know about Catholic European culture, he himself designed a unique architectural style to build the biggest stone cathedral in Vietnam. Good harmony between communal house, Buddhist temple architectural style of Oriental and Gotic style of European culture.
What makes a memorable experience for visitors is the quintessence of pattern: images of Jesus Christ, the cross, the Virgin Mary flower combines with the images of lotus flowers, old Chinese characters, Four Holy Beasts, including Long (the Dragon), Lân (the Jilin), Quy (the Turtle) and phụng/phượng (the Fenghuang), Tu Quy (precious four season pictures), including spring, summer, fall and winter; were engraved in columns, beams, veranda and porch
Chapel of Heart Phat Diem Stone Cathedral
Phat Diem used to be a coastline region formed by alluvial soil so that it had a weak soil platform, the 6th Grand Father had to order putting down millions of bamboo pillars, a thousand of cubic meters of soils and stones in order to make a stable platform for such a huge construction site like this.
The Cathedral complex comprises a bell house tower, a well, a stone church, a cathedral, and three artificial grottoes. You first see the square well lies right on the main path to the cathedral.
The Church at Phat Diem Stone Cathedral
There is a Jesus Christ statue in a small islet. Bell tower monument is next to it, made of stone carving. There is a massive bell and drum. Next, you will see a huge cathedral built in 1891 with the name “Chapel of Virgin Mary”; its length 74 meters, its width 21 meters and its height 15 meters with 4 roofs, Ironwood for six rows.
The lake with a small island in Phat Diem Cathedral, taking 2020
Next to the grand cathedral is a stone church with formed name Chapel of The Sacred Heart’s fully built by stone. And now people call it “Stone church”.
It is rated as top 4 things to do in Ninh Binh on Trip Advisor with 87 excellent reviews
Please see more reviews of Phat Diem Cathedral on Trip Advisor
In my opinion, you’d better book a guided tour because it isn’t easy to travel to Phat Diem by a local bus. There are no other tourist attractions closed. Going on a guided tour you can also check out other places in the Ninh Binh area.
There is no nearby hotels. The closest one locates in Ninh Binh city which is 30 kilometers (20 miles) or 50 minutes drive.
There is a vintage cafe ( Cafe Mau Dich ) near Phat Diem Cathedral, which is right in front of the cathedral. Besides, there is an onsite restaurant at the Cathedral where you can have lunch
Father Sau (Pere Tran Luc) is the one who orders the construction of the Cathedral
No short sleeves or cover your shoulder
Phat Diem Cathedral Entrance fee : Free of charge
Mass opens daily at 6.00 am 10.00 am and 4.00pm
You can combine a day trip with other tourist attractions in Ninh Binh area such as Hoa Lu ancient capital , Tam Coc, Trang An eco-tourism site, Bai Dinh Buddhist temple
Hynam Travel offer days trip to Ninh Binh and tours to Phat Diem Cathedral
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Visiting Phat Diem Cathedral - Vietnam
The Phat Diem Cathedral is located about 123 kilometers (76 miles) outside Hanoi, Vietnam. The Cathedral is a unique architectural structure designed and built in the mid-1800s by Father Six, a Vietnamese Catholic Priest. The Cathedral complex has a bell tower, a Cathedral, and also smaller chapels and grottoes .
Graham Greene, the famous British author, featured the Phat Diem Cathedral in his book The Quiet American. American bomber dropped eight bombs on the Cathedral in 1972.
The Phat Diem Cathedral architect was Father Tran Luc, or as he was known, Father Six. In French, he was called Pere Six , and in Vietnamese, he is known as Cu Sau .
Father Six’s real name was Triem. He was born in 1825 in My Quan village in Nga Son district in Thanh Hoa province in North Vietnam . In 1858 he became a deacon, but before he could become a priest, he was arrested and sent to Lang Son. During this period, many Catholic priests were arrested and put in prison as the Emperor of Vietnam did not like or trust the Catholics. It was when he was in prison that he became known as Father Six.
If you are interested in reading more about Vietnam’s history, you can read the blog entitled A Short History of Vietnam what You Need to Know by clicking here.
In the 1860s, Father Six was still in prison, but he was allowed to go to his hometown for a short period. It was during that time that he took the opportunity to be able to be finally ordained a priest. He was released from prison in 1863 and was eventually put in charge of the Phat Diem parish.
Father Six was a pastor for the Phat Diem parish for 34 years. When he first came to Phat Diem, the area had about 2,000 Catholic parishioners, but there were over 10,000 Catholics in the area when he died. At his funeral in 1899, it is said that over 40,000 people came to honor him and his life. There is little doubt that he was greatly loved and respected.
It took Father Six about 34 years to build the cathedrals. It took him 10 years to prepare all the materials and 24 years for the actual building. Money for building the cathedral was not given by the French or any foreigners, but Father Six raised funds from many poor Vietnamese in the local area.
There is little doubt that if a foreigner had built this Cathedral, it would have looked more like the European-style churches of its time. Instead, it has become one of the most important and unique architectural churches in Asia, as it was built in the Far-Eastern architectural style. The architecture showed that East and Western design styles could be mixed.
It can be said that Father Six was like all great architects or designers, a man who had the vision to think outside the box and the norms of his day. He clearly understood his parishioners, the world around him and built a church that spoke and resinated to that world.
Father Six was skilled in architecture, but he also excelled in politics, Chinese literature, and Vietnamese poetry. He composed prayers, catechisms, and educational lessons.
He was ahead of his time for a new type of evangelism called “inculturation. Inculturation is defined as:
“Inculturation is the term that Catholic leaders and theologians have used in recent decades to denote a process of engagement between the Christian Gospel and a particular culture. “
Father Six was a forerunner in inculturation. Similar to the Jesuit Priest Matteo Ricci and his work in China and the Jesuit missionary Roberto de DeNobili and the work he did in India
The land and area that Father Six and his church were located on was basically a swamp or marshland. To stabilize this ground for the chapels’ building, he had first to prepare the land for building. But they also had to use materials that were readily available to them.
There was no machinery used during this time, so everything had to be done by hand. Millions of bamboo stakes were driven about 30 meters into the ground until they could not drive them down any further. Then earth and gravel were poured on top of that and trampled on by men and water buffaloes. Then bamboo rafts were made and put on top of that. One reason why bamboo was used is not only because of its strength but also because it does well in water. They did all this before any actual foundations were ever laid.
These foundations have withstood the test of time. Not only are they very stable today, but even with 8 bombs dropped on the Cathedral by the American forces in 1972 (see our section below), the cathedral compound has continued to stand strong.
One of the most difficult questions Father Six had to resolve was what materials he could use for the building of the cathedrals. He needed to use materials that were easy to find, cost-effective, and would also be long-lasting.
Almost all the materials had to be brought in from other places as materials are not readily available in this area. Even today, this area is known for basket weaving and farming.
You can watch our video below to see more of the Phat Diem Chapel:
Here are some of the materials and where they had to come from:
By today’s standards, these places may not seem that far, but remember, this was in the mid to late 1800s when transportation and transporting these materials would have been complicated. There is no wonder it took him over 10 years to gather and find the materials. It would have taken them quite a while to find, locate, and transport these materials to the construction site.
Some of the huge blocks of rock would weigh up to 20 tons. Other large trunks of the trees weighed as much as 7 tons. They brought many of these heavy materials down by bamboo rafts through the waterways and canals and then would unload them at high tide. They would pull them off the rafts and to the building site by men and water buffaloes.
Getting the materials was very challenging, as was also the construction. The area this cathedral is located is still quite a small town today compared to other areas in Vietnam as Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, or even Danang.
During this time, all construction had to be done completely by hand as no machinery could be used. Even by today’s standard of construction, these cathedrals would have been difficult, but it was a very ambitious undertaking during that time period.
Here is some information on the construction of the Phat Diem Cathedral:
When you think about the procuring of materials and the construction, it is really a testament to Father Six and his ability as an architect, engineer, and project manager to build this cathedral. It is also a testament to the men who worked on the construction site hauling and lifting those heavy stones, marble, wood, and other materials without any machinery. Only with the use of backbreaking manual labor and some water buffalo to help them.
When I first entered the Phat Diem Cathedral’s entrance area, the first thing you will notice is a pond with a small island that has a statue of Christ outstretching his hands. It reminded me of the Christus statue , at the Evangelical Lutheran Church in Denmark, except for in this statue, Christ’s hands are outstretched higher than the original Christus statue. The Phat Diem Christ statue is called “Christ the King.”
The other thing that struck me was the pond itself. Most Buddhist Temples in Vietnam have a pond in front of them, so besides the Christ statue and the cross that you could see on the horizon, the Cathedral setting from the beginning looks a lot like a Vietnamese Buddhist Temple.
Visitors will also notice that to enter any building in the Phat Diem Catherdal complex, you must step over the threshold. This is the same way that you must step over the threshold to enter a Buddhist temple. The reason for this is that this is considered a mark of respect.
The bell tower is the structure near the lake and the first building you see when you enter the cathedral complex. The bell tower was built to represent a typical Vietnamese communal house that is in most Vietnamese villages. Also located in the back of the bell tower in the courtyard between the bell tower and one of the cathedrals is Father Six’s tomb.
The building is almost square and was built without any doors. Above the central entrance, you can see four large Chinese-style characters that translate to mean “precious seat of the Holy body.” The smaller characters tell the date of the building, which translates as “Holy Thursday 1899.” On the other side is a Latin inscription that reads “Capella in Coena Domini,” which translated means “Chapel for the last supper.”
The bell tower has a very spacious interior. In the center of each section is a large stone slab. This is a communal kind of seat where Vietnamese would sit upright, crossed-legged. The large slab in the middle section was said to have belonged to the Tay Giai Citadel’s royal hall in Thanh Hoa Province.
You can look at the bell tower, and you can almost imagine the thousands of Vietnamese who have sat on these stone slabs talking about everything from Christian teachings to love or just daily life. How many friends were made on those slabs, or how many proposals or love matches were made because of those conversations?
On the bell tower
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