Petite Ceinture
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Petite Ceinture
Paris’ Abandoned Railroad, La Petite Ceinture
Grafitti in La Petite Ceinture | © Caroline Peyronel / Culture Trip
A young boy take a walk down the abandoned railroad | © Caroline Peyronel / Culture Trip
A wall of graffiti along the railroad tracks | © Caroline Peyronel / Culture Trip
A young child and their father explore La Petite Ceinture | © Caroline Peyronel / Culture Trip
Flowers along the railroad tracks | © Caroline Peyronel / Culture Trip
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Anastasia Bow-Bertrand explores the past, present and future of the near-forgotten railroad La Petite Ceinture , Paris . Dating from the nineteenth century, its original commercial transportation uses were abandoned, and an underground culture and environmental treasure took their place. But this is all about to change again.
The ‘shall they return to beatings of great bells / In wild trainloads?’ strain of Wilfred Owen ’s The Send-Off floats into consciousness as one contemplates the history and purposes of the Chemin de fer de Petite Ceinture . Translated as The Little Belt , this now abandoned railway line encircles the Boulevards des Maréchaux and the city walls of Paris as they stood during the reign of Napoleon III. For those more familiar with the current Métro, this is approximately the loop of lines 2 and 6. This was also the era of Georges-Eugène Haussmann (the civic planner said to have changed the very shape of Parisian streets), and the Petite Ceinture, built at intervals between 1852 and 1869, similarly transformed the potential for goods and citizen transportation at the time, by linking the major stations of the five core railway companies in a 32 km long thread.
To an impercipient visitor, the original purposes underlying its construction remain obscured by the brambles that blur the lines at regular points along the tracks. However, Owen’s military musings resonate with initial motivations to create a means of rapidly transferring troops from point to point across the city, as a defensive strategy. Since this earliest function, the Petite Ceinture has come to grow and sustain the transport of material goods from depot yards to the core of Paris, ultimately becoming an invaluable urban passenger service at the height of its use. Now, observing a line that has witnessed the decay of 79 years since its closure to the public in 1934, it is near impossible to imagine steam trains charging in each direction six times per hour.
The Métro was the central factor in the outdating of the Petite Ceinture. Even freight train provisions had dwindled to none by the mid-1980s. Nevertheless, much as Haussmann is influential for changing the boulevards of Paris, this railway line shaped the development of the peripheral districts of the French capital. Indeed, a railway is a journey in itself, not merely a means to a destination. The Petite Ceinture’s lingering presence continues to influence the lives of many Parisians, albeit the minority who recall its existence and care for its fate. At present, the Société Nationale des Chemins de fer Français (SNCF) retains ownership of the vast majority of the line, which technically remains functional in the eastern bands stretching between Gare de Bercy and Gare de Nord . As a result, the remaining sections are off-limits to the public.
For children and adults alike, the forbidden tempts with the promise of rebellion and adventure. Inevitably, the Petite Ceinture has attracted an eclectic undercurrent of trespassers, from activists, artists, historians, local residents, to the schoolchildren who slip onto the tracks to se balader (‘wander around’). The lure of Paris’s catacombs physically overlaps that of the railway; the most accessible entrance to these underground tunnels being via one of the 17 abandoned railway stations. Our exploration, ironically enough, finds us arriving via the Métro at Gambetta station, in the heart of the village of Charonne in the 11th arondissement. Immediately, one is struck by a sense of depth. Above the streets, bridges cross like balconies, and houses cling to the sides of suburban slopes. This is typical Petite Ceinture territory. So often forgotten because of its ‘other worldliness’, the omnipresent tracks weave their way through a network of tunnels, slice through deserted goods yards, and rise through elevated terrain above the watching windows of terraced houses.
The sight of two students straddling a lamp post to access the railway is clearly an ordinary occurrence here, as locals passed by unconcerned, until a tip-off revealed an easy access point nearby (albeit involving a scramble up a former playground wall). From those first, bewildered steps onto the rotting wooden sleepers and tracks glistening umber in the dew, the overbearing atmosphere of nature’s supremacy soon becomes evident. The line itself is cloaked in grasses and old man’s beard, stretching out like a green ladder in the remote segments furthest from the invasive, bustling presence of Charonne life. To each side, marrow plants and saplings framed the tracks while soil was mounded into graves, presumably covering sleeping vegetables rather than bodies. This is the character of the Petite Ceinture – simultaneously rural and semi-civilised. The graffiti artists that have covered the walls and many derelict signalling posts along this part, work out of the desire to create.
These artists have the same motivation for being and creating there as the photographers; and even the two 15-year old locals who had come to smoke marijuana are there for that same reason: there is a magnetic mystery to this place. ‘Magic’ is the wrong word, for this railway line is a hub of underground culture, as well as the garden of nature, showcasing the best of its animals, flora and fauna, preserved from the ravages of development and technology. Its stirring force of potentiality overrules the sadness of seeing squatter’s dwellings fashioned out of corrugated iron sheets, dumped gas canisters, and broken terrace chairs. Where a railway has been lost, a place of immeasurable calm and harmony away from the real Paris has descended. ‘Surreal’ is the most apt description for the emotions felt on climbing away from the tracks.
For those who wish to explore the line without having to leave by hopping onto the roof of a Citroën, or entering tunnels of indefinite length, there are several recently developed initiatives that have attempted to integrate the line with its local environment. In the vein of New York’s High Line and Paris’s established Promenade plantée, the opening of a freely accessible walk between Balard and Rue Olivier de Serres offers a taste of the Petite Ceinture, although it is a clinical one, involving abiding by park opening times, and using lifts and stairs. Other ventures include the restoration of the railroad stations into restaurants and venues, such as the alternative music hall La Flèche d’Or , despite its disintegrating back-end when observed from the railway track itself. Cracked windows, sparse roof tiling and rusting gates are somehow permissible in this derelict world.
However, the fate of la Petite Ceinture is not as disregarded as one might imagine. The Association pour la Sauvegarde de la Petite Ceinture et de son Réseau Ferré (ASPCRF) is the pivotal organisation behind the preservation of the railroad, primarily seeking the restoration of the passenger service. Their work frequently engages with councils and residents whose aims range from demolition, to landscaping the line into an ecological haven. Whether the ‘wild trainloads’ ever return to this route is still very much in debate. What is certain, is that change is imminent, and the romance of abandonment cannot, and will not, last forever.
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Exploring La Petite Ceinture (PARIS) - YouTube
Paris’ Abandoned Railroad, La Petite Ceinture
La Petite Ceinture Paris (Walking on Railroad Tracks) – World In Paris
Petite Ceinture – Paris, France - Atlas Obscura
La petite ceinture - Paris tourist office
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La Petite Ceinture Paris (Walking on Railroad Tracks)
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La Petite Ceinture Paris is one of the best-kept secrets of Paris. If you like to explore Paris’s hidden gems and the romance of abandonment, these abandoned train stations, and railroads in the heart of Paris are for you.
La Petite Ceinture Paris (the Little Belt railway around Paris) was a 32 km railroad line that circled Paris, developed during 1852-1869. Originally built to transport material goods from depot yards to the core of Paris, “Le Chemin de Fer Petite Ceinture” became since 1862 also a service for passengers. At the height of its activity, there were steam trains charging in each direction six times per hour.
La Petite Ceinture’s decline started with the construction of the Parisian Metro in 1900. As a result, the passenger service stopped in 1934, when the metro reached its maturity. At the end of the 70’s, with the disappearance of the slaughterhouses of Vaugirard , the cattle station of La Villette and the relocation of the Citroën factories, the freight traffic fell drastically and La Petite Ceinture stopped operating.
Today only four short sections of abandoned railroads are converted into green spaces and opened to the public in Paris 12, Paris 13, Paris 15 and Paris 16. This article is the result of different day-expeditions walking on railroad tracks to explore these public spaces, to explore the backyards of the City of Lights.
Petite Ceinture Map /Plan Petite Ceinture Paris (green line)
Unfortunately, it is not possible walking on railroad tracks without any interruption. This is because some kilometers in the west are reused by RER trains and some tunnels are sealed. To do the tour presented below we are going to combine bike rides with some walking on train tracks.
Accès Petite Ceinture Paris 12: 21 rue Rottembourg, 75012 Paris; M. Michel Bizot, L 8; Velib Station #12.010
This short section (200 meters) was developed to accommodate a shared garden and a nature trail (=sentier nature). Along the nature trail, we can discover the city’s biological diversity: grassland, coppice, and afforestation.
This section of the 12th Arrondissement is linked to the Coulée Verte Paris. If you are around don’t miss the opportunity to explore this cool green walk!
Accès Petite Ceinture Paris 13: 60 rue Damesme, 75013 Paris; M. Maison Blanche, L 7; Velib station #13.110
This section, located between the parks Charles-Trenet et Moulin-de-la-Pointe, opened only in January 2016 so it is a very new sight for Parisians. Along 500 meters, these abandoned train tracks are the common thread of an unusual landscape formed by flora and fauna typical of industrial wastelands. In addition, there is a chill-out area with grassland and some chaise-longues that should host some performances or events in the near future.
Accès Petite Ceinture Paris 15: in front of 99 rue Olivier de Serres, 75015 Paris; M. Porte de Versailles, L12; Velib station #15.111
In Paris 15th Arrondissement la Petite Ceinture served the Citroën factories (Parc André Citroën today) and the slaughterhouses of Vaugirard (Parc Georges Brassens). On this leg, the old railway track was never deferred. In addition, the development carried out by the City Council consisted in keeping the historic installations while preserving the flora and fauna (more than 220 species of plants and animals) installed spontaneously on the site.
Along the 1,3 km walk, we can see an abandoned train station, a couple of wooden chalets and some train signs. As you can see in the pictures, la Petite Ceinture is also a playground for graffiti artists. Any flat surface is completely covered with colorful paintings. Finally, some information panels located here and there help us to appreciate the existent flora better: grassland, coppice, wastelands, and afforestation.
If you can only do one part of these abandoned railroads, we suggest La Petite Ceinture Paris 15.
Accès Petite Ceinture Paris 16: 36 Boulevard de Beauséjour, 75016 Paris; M. Ranelagh, L9; Velib station #16.021
This 1,2 km section links Porte d’Auteuil to La Muette . Deferred in 1993 and completely abandoned, it was quickly colonized by a wild nature which makes a formidable “ecological corridor” for plants and animals.
This walk is especially pleasant in the summer time and probably the most interesting one for nature lovers. Take the time to read the information panels about the incredible diversity of this ecosystem: grassland, wetland, limestone slopes, afforestation.
While la Petite Ceinture Paris 16 is a beautiful section to see, I never had the feeling of exploring abandoned railroads when walking through this section because there are no rails or original installations left. It just looked like a small beautiful forest to me.
Back to our bicycles, we leave Paris 16 direction to Paris 18. On the way, we can see another section of the Paris Little Belt, along rue Navier (Paris 17). On this street, there is an abandoned train station but also in-ground platforms bounded by solid poles and a couple of tunnels. Here everything is covered by obscure graffiti. The ensemble is phantasmagorical and a little bit disturbing. We did not find an entry point to go down to the rails but I am not sure I would like to explore this part closer!
We reach Porte de Clignancourt (Paris 18) at lunchtime. Here we find the old railway station of Ornano which after years of abandon was converted into a very cool community space but without losing the “old railway station” feeling. La REcyclerie Paris (83 boulevard Ornano) is a kind of canteen /restaurant but it is also an urban farm, a cultural space and a “do it yourself” reparation workshop. You can find more information about la REcyclerie Paris on our page Yummy Paris . For the moment, we are only interested in their food and we order their generous brunch (there is also a vegetarian option).
One of the station’s old platforms belongs to la REcyclerie Paris. This is where we can find the urban farm, a small garden, and a terrace. On the opposite platform, there is a shared garden managed by a local association. Unfortunately, the access to the rail tracks in this section is opened only in few occasions, usually related to Nature festivals or events.
(non-) official access: rue André Danjon; M. Ourcq, L5; Velib station #19.016
The fence along rue André Danjon can be opened or climbed on some points. This is not an official section and we are not supposed to be here. But pssst, this part is super cool! Furthermore, in this section we are in Paris off the beaten track, walking on train tracks and enjoying some street art and a little bit of nature. We can even walk above the Canal de la Villette and enjoy this area from another point of view.
(non-) official access: Parc des Buttes Chaumont; M. Botzaris, L7 bis; Velib station #19.025
Inside Parc des Buttes Chaumont, right after the bridge which crosses the rails (on the left side), there is a little path going downhill. You can reach the rails through a hole in the fence which follows this path.
This is the most adventurous section, an opportunity to explore Paris underground . Same, this is not a public section but the rails that we can see from the park are so tempting! Along this section, there are three long tunnels to cross so take a pair of good shoes and a torch.
The first meters of this section are very cool. After some hesitation, we decide to walk into the tunnel. The air is strange inside so if you have breathing problems avoid going further. We don’t suggest going alone either.
When we exit the first tunnel (1.2 km) we are in Paris 20. There is a cool area with some urban furniture and street art. I am happy that a group of teenagers is walking not far from us because the tunnel was scary. Some meters further we enter the second tunnel (1.3 km) which goes below Père Lachaise Cemetery !
After the second tunnel, there is another old railway station, above on the street level. Today La Gare de Charonne (1867-1934) is a modern concert hall called La Flèche d’Or (102 bis rue de Bagnolet). You can see how it looks from the rails in the slideshow below.
The railway line crosses all Paris 20. The last abandoned train station in this district has some cool graffiti around. As you can see in the pictures we are not alone. Curious locals, street artists, and vagabonds are frequent in this area.
Finally, we are back in Paris 12 where we started. We leave the world of abandoned train stations and railroads at Villa du Bel Air, happy to have completed the tour.
READ: looking for more unusual places in Paris? Check out this cool list by Beer and Croissants
Quirky Parisian explorers with a preference for the less known sights, we are continuously looking for new ideas and tips to bring you the best of the City of Light.
Paris is so romanesque and it has so much to offer! Loved the aspects you included!
Fantastic walkthrough of an area of Paris I would have never thought of discovering. Beautiful photos and descriptions as well!
Hello,
What a unique post! I love that you included the history behind the area as well as books to get more information. We love getting the local perspective when we travel, I think no trip is complete without a mix of both touristy and off the beaten path local options. I also think it is great you included restaurant info. We also enjoy out of use historic areas that have been converted to green space. You have a wonderful blog, We are looking forward to following along with you. Hopefully we will make it to Paris soon so we can put your info to good use! Happy Travels,
Cheryl – Adventuredawgs.com
Thanks for your kind comment Cheryl! Glad that you like the blog, there is much love on it! Hope you will find some inspiration and all the info that you need for your next trip to Paris, I am sure you will have a great time 🙂
What an extremely interesting place. Certainly a colorful place for exploring. I love the picture with the arch and blue clearing, how fabulous for photos. By the way, Imust ask what you use to make the photos change? I love it! Never seen that before in a blog post.
Yes, quirky place to explore plus very interesting with all the history which is behind! To answer your question related to the slideshow I sent you an email, hope it helps! 🙂
I love this idea! Unique walks like this are always so much fun. I wouldn’t mind stopping at La REcyclerie for lunch too–looks like a great find. I will definitely have to add this walk onto our itinerary the next time we are in Paris!
Oh that REcyclerie’s brunch was reaaaaaaaaaaally good. There is also a dessert and unlimited coffee and tea included in the price 🙂
It looks so cool to see how the community built things around the abandoned tracks. It’s truly amazing especially given the history there. I would like to go down and see the abandoned train stations. I like exploring abandoned places but it can be quite scary and you have to be careful not to get caught “trespassing”. Overall, its really neat to see this in Paris.
Only those tunnels shown on the pictures were a little bit scary. Thanks for your nice comment, Liurene 🙂
Great look at a little history of Paris. I love that cities are making something out of old, unused rail tracks, like the High Line in NYC. I wish more places would have the forethought to smartly repurpose open land like that.
Well, there is still to much work to do at la Petite Ceinture! Hopefully more kilometres will be opened to the public in the near future 🙂
Definitely sounds like an off the beaten path way of exploring the area! What an exciting twist on travel, love it!
This is a great suggestion for people wanting to do something out of the ordinary when visiting Paris. I liked the 16 part and the 18 to 19 part. Is is pretty safe to walk in these areas? What about in the evening time?
I would say YES but I also recommend not to walk alone and only during daylight. Actually #16, which is a public section, closes at 6.pm 🙂
This is a fascinating post. I think knowing factoids like these is a great way to travel deeper. Must keep it in mind for when we visit Paris the fourth time. 🙂
I am sure that you would like La Petite Ceinture, Punita 🙂
What a wonderful way of exploring Paris, a really unique suggestion.
I lived in Paris for a short while and never knew about this. It looks like a fun adventure. Will have to try next time!
What a cool and unique look at Paris! Thanks so much for sharing this truly interesting point of view. My family loves to check out lesser known attractions in the places we travel. Visiting some of the sections of La Petite Ceinture de Paris will be a priority for us when we visit Paris.
Glad that you liked it! Don’t hesitate to ask if you need more information 🙂
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