Peru transport logistics

How to get to the mountain peaks of the Cordillera Blanca from Lima?

The original text is here:

Spoiler - if you are too lazy to read a long text:

Taxi in Lima - take only official
Hotel in Lima - stay only in the Miraflores area
Transport in Huaraz - consider bus only (2023)
It is always easier and safer - with a good guide (me)

The Cordillera Blanca (White Ridge) is considered to be the most popular area for mountain tourism and climbing in Peru. As well there many are other areas that are no less (or even more) interesting for mountain travel and climbing - Cordillera Huayhuash, Cordillera Raura, Cordillera Waichuac, but the Cordillera Blanca is still the main classic tourist destination.

Continuing the theme of the independent travel in Peru, below I will give some tips and recommendations on how best, easier and cheaper to get to Huaraz town, from where all climbing and trekking routes in the Cordillera Blanca and neighboring mountain systems begin.

One way or another, the logistics issues confront any person who for the first time independently get to a new country. Especially to the such unusual and in its own way exotic as Peru. In order not to spoil your impressions of the trip, you should from the very beginning understand some of the features of this country, including those related to transportation. To begin with, it should be noted that Peru is not a rich country by European standards, mostly poor. The state of the roads and transport infrastructure is quite typical for all Central Latin America, that is, by European standards - some kind of complete disaster.

However, in Latin America, this state of anything is treated differently - no have something is better than to have nothing, so thanks for that. Therefore, somehow wrinkling your nose and getting upset about what you have to use is not worth to do. I must add that many things function here much better than they look.

Let's start from the very beginning. For the vast majority of tourists, any trip to a new country starts from the airport of arrival - in Peru, this is the Jose Chavez International Airport. If a transfer from the airport is provided for you and a good person with a sign with your name is waiting for you at the exit, this is very good. But if not?

Further options very much depend on one important detail - do you speak Spanish or not. You can forget about other languages - even in the tourist areas, hotels and restaurants in Peru, the level of knowledge of English is extremely symbolic. Accordingly, suppose the most likely option is that you do not speak Spanish. In this case, your set of options will be limited to a set of travel services, the cost of which is several times higher than their real price. The quality of these services, by the way, does not grow with the price, so be prepared to pay the "tourist price" for the most common services.

There is an official taxi stand at the airport. This is the most reliable and safe option, although its cost will be significantly higher than the price offered to you immediately after leaving the customs zone. The price will drop by half if you leave the airport building and catch any departing taxi. But for this you need to have a straight face and the ability to communicate in Spanish.

It is better to have cash in US dollars. The euro is also accepted in Peru, but the proximity of America makes this currency not as popular as the familiar dollar. The exchange of the old dollar bills is possible, but not always for a "small head" you will be given the cost of the official rate. It is better to have all the new dollar bills in cash.

Don't forget to change some money in the arrival zone - the exchange rate will be extortionate, but it's still better than paying with dollars outside the airport.

N.B. Whatever your future plans, renting a car in Lima is a very dubious decision. The fact is that if you do not have the habit of driving a car in the conditions of total chaos, do not even try. Getting pleasure from that is not a good idea. Car traffic in Lima is specific, the main rule on the road is to sneak into any gape at the high speeds and with minimal distances. All the cars have broken or torn off mirrors - a clear sign of dense and chaotic traffic.

Having experience of driving a car in almost any country in the world, I would not drive in Lima without the most extreme or critical need.

So, getting a taxi from the Lima airport you will get to one of the largest metropolitan areas in South America. It will be dusty, gloomy, gray and with a lot of traffic. At the same time, without negative or pronounced criminal tension, as, for example, in Brazil. Of course, there is criminal activity in Peru - the standard of the local life fully justifies this. But the crime in Peru is quite "cultural". You won’t be killed in the street for a phone, and your face will not be smashed for a “European look”. But keeping valuables in plain sight, scattering luggage unattended, or entering dubious quarters would not be a good idea.

If you plan to spend the night in Lima - do not look for adventure - book a hotel in the safe and beautiful Miraflores area. This is the only civilized, clean and safe part of Lima, where all the local and foreign elite live. All tourist sites and attractions of the capital of Peru, Lima, are also located in the Miraflores area.

After a good rest after the flight, you can think about further continuation of your way towards the desired mountain peaks of the Cordillera Blanca. The distance from Lima to Huaraz, a town located at an altitude of 3600 m in the wide valley of the Rio Santa, from where any mountain routes in the Cordillera Blanca begin, is 400 kilometers. The distance, it seems, is not critical, but keep in mind that the elevation difference over these 400 km will be more than 4500 m, and most of the way is a tiring mountain serpentine.

Actually, there are only two alternatives to get from Lima to Huaraz. This is either a regular intercity bus (modern double-decker liners), or an airplane. The second option is not available for the second year now - the company that operated the Lima - Huaraz flights did not survive the covid epidemic. Flights were promised to be restored in the 2021 season, but so far nothing has been heard about the opening of the regular flights. As of July 2023 there are no flights to Huaraz.

Bus connection to Huaraz from Lima is carried out by several transport companies, in general, the level of the service and the price are approximately the same - 60-80 Peruvian soles (15-20 dollars). I would consider the Cruz Del Sur company (https://www.cruzdelsur.com.pe) to be the most convenient and comfortable option. They have online ticket sales, buses depart from the terminal in Lima either in the morning (the bus runs all day), or in the evening (all the night on the road).

The first option allows you to enjoy the views from the bus window (it is especially spectacular to get a seat on the second floor in the first row of seats, in front of a huge windshield, also it is the worst position in case of an accident). The second option allows you to save time and budget for one night in a hotel. Actually I think that this is not an ideal solution - anyway, after a whole night in the bus, you will need additional rest after arriving to Huaraz.

In general, getting from Lima to Huaraz does not present any particular logistical difficulties. However, in order to avoid annoying troubles and unnecessary hassle (in the absence of spoken Spanish, this is inevitable), it is better to use the services of some local tourist operator who will make the best route for you, connect transfers and provide personal support throughout the route.

Author of text and photos Alex Trubachev
Professional guide in Peru and Bolivia

MCS EDIT 2023