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Called The Prostitute by locals, it had been straightforward routefinding with the standard avy precautions. Mostly, it had been plain great skiing on wide-open, moderately pitched slopes in brilliant sunshine. With strained metaphors and wan puns rolling off our tongues, we agreed she had dispensed her favours willingly, satisfyingly and at a remarkably low cost. But now we were transitioning from fall-line skiing to the exit phase, which can be an intricate undertaking in the Alps. For The Prostitute, it meant a long traverse along an ancient military track running between avalanche start zones above and big cliffs below, followed by a brief respite in the aforesaid tunnel, then more sidehill traversing, with a finale of tree skiing before reaching our ride at a local highway. Would The Prostitute grant us a discrete exit? Or keep us in her clutches to extract payment? I ditched any idea of applying the brakes and shot along the track beneath avalanche chutes and over successive zones of debris until rounding a last pile of mud-streaked chunks brought the open tunnel into view. Just enough snow had sluffed inside to permit hurling myself sideways on the last patch of sunlight and hockey-stopping inside the entrance short of piling up on verglas -covered boulders. The whorehouse equivalent of a smoke break between rounds. Blatantly sexist to current hyper-attentive sensibilities, but in Italy, one is never far from history. Even in the highest mountains one views wartime fortifications carved into cliffs or comes across scraps of barbed wire or shell fragments. Glaciers periodically disgorge remains of some unfortunate soldier who escaped being blown to bits only to fall into a crevasse. The village sits at 6, feet, which would be low in Colorado or Utah but is very high for the Alps. Smooth-faced mountains with a jumble of detachable chairlifts rise to the north. Alessio, Cindy my sweetheart and I spend a couple of fun mornings cruising along perfect groomers just long enough to find suitable powder slopes, then off we go. The other side, very much so. Slopes sweep up steepening into a massive, miles-long cliff-wall punctuated by a couple of alpine cirques and several tight couloirs. A modern high-speed gondola scales one of these cirques and passes through a notch in the cliff wall. Beyond that, a high hanging glaciated valley saddles out at 10, feet and gives access to the Adamello Glacier area. If you avoid obsessively demystifying the place ahead of time on Google maps or topo apps, Passo del Tonale and the Adamello Glacier zone are a varied and fascinating area that can yield one discovery after another, including descents of over a vertical mile. As they did for me. One easy hit is known simply as The Couloir. Other areas might have more snow but be overrun with people, or have the biggest relief and the most impressive peaks but get great snow only about every 10 th year. After all, we were in Italy , a culture that lives and breathes wonderful food, wine and coffee. I say that only because, historically, Italian establishments had a very uncertain relationship with plumbing. Not here. In addition, there was some bizarre lighting circuitry in which LEDs would randomly dissolve among various garish colours. Of course, I was here to do real touring. The snowfall had resumed after our descents of The Couloir and The Prostitute and, as we rode the gondola the next morning, we saw the wind had blown as well. Traversing from the top station was pure slab. We travelled ultra-conservatively, staying on low ridgetops, ever-conscious of hazards above, below and beside. Not so some others. One guy on skinny ski-mo gear kicked off a wind slab, got carried down a ways, picked himself up and promptly skied into a huge slab pillow, burying himself neck-deep. Lower down, some split-boarders were ripping turns on a sun-baked slope that had already detached three slabs. Alessio and I timed things to shoot across between their runs as far from the run outs as we could get. At last we were in the relative safety of the skin-up area. Across ran the long, sinuous, heavily crevassed Adamello Glacier. And beyond that, numerous additional peaks and glaciers that would warrant a multi-week visit rather than my meagre four days. The Adamello Glacier and its huts are where a young Polish cleric named Karol Wojtyla many decades ago would visit for the feelings of height, solitude and physical effort that, he felt, brought him closer to God. He went on to climb major peaks in the Himalayas, summiting Dhaulagiri, and also crossing the North Pole. Alessio and I had a more achievable summit in mind. We were able to stay on a relatively protected shoulder for much of the two-and-a-half-hour ascent. I kept thinking that my Canadian avalanche course instructors would suffer a series of heart attacks, strokes and exploding heads at the sight of me right now, and my choice of route would flunk me out of any Canadian course. Before long we were at our saddle and into the usual ritual of unskinning, swapping layers, having a drink and snack and clamping down our boots. A few other ski tourers and splitboarders were doing the same, and all were questioning Alessio and wondering why a North American would come here. Although it sounds too good to be true, the slopes we were contemplating had been copiously dumped upon but looked utterly untouched by wind. Blower wherever any snow could settle, framed by massive cliffs. We pushed off, well-spaced, and were instantly waist-deep and engulfed not merely by face-shots but descending entire face pitches. As we stopped between pitches, we looked up and noticed a couple of them skiing in our tracks. One section was, admittedly, too flat to turn much even on our wider skis. Gradient soon returned, however, and three successively steeper pitches followed. One of them must have been 1, vertical feet all by itself. Though still very light, the snow was slightly settled, allowing us to accelerate into fast ripping turns, throwing our skis far out away from us and ending up nearly chest-deep at each apex. Now we were in a narrow valley beneath a mile of rocky, snow-blasted relief in the dazzling late-morning sun. At the mouth of this valley lay the village of Ponte di Legno at 4, feet. After shooting past the last danger zone, another 2, vertical feet of pleasant glades, tree skiing and zig-zaggy forest trail lay ahead. Everything remained attached. This winter I'm hoping to put my new guiding certification to use by tail-guiding at one or two B. Currently you have JavaScript disabled. In order to post comments, please make sure JavaScript and Cookies are enabled, and reload the page. Click here for instructions on how to enable JavaScript in your browser. Search for:. Defying the Prostitute. George Koch. George Koch This winter I Notify of. Inline Feedbacks. On Stands Now! Ascent Store. Instagram Feed ascentbackcountry. In an effort to reduce crowded slopes, and direct. Salt Lake City friends, pick it up now at your fav. Jackson Hole friends! Pick up the new issue in tow. Slopeside accommodations. Here it is! Now taking subscription orders for imm. Ruby Mountains days and cowboy nights. A great wee. Here we go. Just a couple of days until it goes to. A trip to Tahoe for some Sierra fun. Wind, snow, s. Besides the Ascent, there are some other good ones. Dreaming of Antarctica…. Thanks to the utavy for hosting the annual fundra. 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Passo Tonale. The White War and Non Stop Snow
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We have more newsletters. The slopes of Passo Tonale in Italy were ready and calling as I returned to skiing with Crystal Ski after an, ahem, extended break. Located in the Dolomites, the snow-sure resort at 1, metres is popular with families and beginners with miles of rolling blue slopes which made it the perfect spot to rediscover my love of skiing after more than a decade away from the slopes. Passe Tonale is a purpose-built resort, with the majority of the hotels, bars and shops along one road, which sits at the bottom of a row of ski runs. It is therefore easy to find your way around with everything within an easy walking distance of around 3km. The small town centre is quaint and charming with traditional Alpine-style buildings housing hotels, restaurants and quaint gift shops, including a fabulous chocolate shop complete with chocolate fountain and handmade gelato which should not be missed. Passe Tonale straddles the mountain pass that links the Trentino and Lombardy regions of Italy, and at more than 1, metres is high enough for great snow conditions all winter usually until the end of April. The town is linked to neighbouring Ponte Di Legno - a larger town with a more traditional European focused layout around a main square - by ski runs, road and by gondola. With km of mainly intermediate and easy runs, including a row of half a dozen shorter runs right in front of the town centre, Passe Tonale is an ideal resort for families and beginners, or those finding their ski legs again after a break like me. In total there are nine easy blue runs, 25 intermediate red runs and seven black runs in the resort. With long, rolling and scenic blue runs, including a glacier blue run, there were more than enough easy slopes to fill several days of skiing before I felt confident enough to try out a red run. There were also no queues at any of the chairlifts at all while I was there in the last week of January. After a couple of hours with a ski school instructor, I was ready to make my own way and found the resort really easy to navigate using the piste map in the Crystal ski explorer app. A five minute walk from the main ski area is the gondola to the glacier ski area at 3, metres. At the top of the glacier is a long blue run, two red runs, three restaurants and gondola stops, with a black run which joins a red run linking to the more challenging Ponte Di Legno skiing area. As a returning skier, with far from expert skills, the runs offered the perfect balance of scenic and enjoyable easy routes, with options to challenge and improve for intermediate skiers. I stayed at The Grand Hotel Paradiso which oozes chic, with a modern neutral colour palette and huge floor to ceiling windows to take in the uninterrupted mountain landscape which surrounds the hotel. Set slightly away from the main strip of hotels, the stylish hotel is on the side of town closest to the gondolas less than a five minute walk , and has ski-in and -out access at the top of a flight of stairs outside the hotel. The neutral, unstated classy decor continues into the huge bedrooms, which have floor to ceiling windows with balconies to enjoy the stunning sunset views. The hotel boasts a boutique spa area in the basement with a pool, steam rooms and sauna which was delightful after a long day on the slopes. And in-keeping with the family-friendly resort the hotel has kids-clubs and games room. Of the half dozen bars and restaurants at the foot of the slopes in the town centre, La Baracca is the pick of the bunch. The glass-fronted restaurant has amazing views across the slopes, especially the sunny day we visited, and offers table service for just a few euros more per dish than the more typical self-service restaurants nearby. Away from the hotel La Torretta Cucina Pizza is an excellent choice for traditional Trentinto food - think Italian meets Germanic gastronomy, with meat stews, dumplings, polenta, pasta and antipasti jostling for space on an expansive menu. For an extra special treat we sampled a four course Trentino tasting menu in a 12th Century former monastery at the Hotel La Mirandola, which was spectacular. Although the Apres ski is still not as lively as pre-pandemic due to covid restrictions, there are still a number of bars at the bottom of the slopes pumping out loud music and large Aperol Spritz to happy skiers. The Italian skier's reward of choice is a bombardino drink made with Advocaat or eggnog mixed with rum or brandy served warm and I can vouch for its popularity. An NHS covid pass confirming that you have had one dose of the vaccine either a booster jab, first or second jab within the past six months, is valid as a green pass in Italy. Looking for an Apres-ski activity away from the bars? I can highly recommend night snowmobiling. A guided tour takes you speeding up the slopes in the main ski areas, along the tree-lined route to Ponte Di Legno before a speedy ascent back to the town centre and is great fun. Selected Passe Tonale ski passes include one day of skiing in another resort within the region and after a couple of days in the resort we headed out on a ski away day to Madonna di Campiglio. Prices provided are subject to change and have limited availability. Terms and conditions apply. What's On. By Laura Hill. Don't miss any of Edinburgh Live's biggest stories - sign up to our daily email newsletter More Newsletters. Subscribe Please enter a valid email Something went wrong, please try again later. More Newsletters. This may include adverts from us and third parties based on our knowledge of you. More info. Thank you for subscribing! See Our Privacy Notice. Group Don't miss any of Edinburgh Live's biggest stories - sign up to our daily email newsletter. Invalid email Something went wrong, please try again later. Sign Up No thanks, close. Show Me No thanks, close. See our Privacy Notice. After a slightly stuttered start to the season, ski resorts are now back to almost full swing. The resort Passe Tonale is a purpose-built resort, with the majority of the hotels, bars and shops along one road, which sits at the bottom of a row of ski runs. Story Saved. Follow EdinburghLive. Facebook Twitter. More On tendendo. Food and Drink. Amazon shoppers hail 'fantastic' car gadget that's 'perfect' for chilly mornings. Somewhere by Nico Edinburgh launches thrilling murder mystery in time for Halloween. German beer hall to pop-up in Edinburgh neighbourhood in 'Oktoberfest' event. Edinburgh Biscuit Factory to host spooky Halloween film night with 'cult classics'. 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