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Called The Prostitute by locals, it had been straightforward routefinding with the standard avy precautions. Mostly, it had been plain great skiing on wide-open, moderately pitched slopes in brilliant sunshine. With strained metaphors and wan puns rolling off our tongues, we agreed she had dispensed her favours willingly, satisfyingly and at a remarkably low cost. But now we were transitioning from fall-line skiing to the exit phase, which can be an intricate undertaking in the Alps. For The Prostitute, it meant a long traverse along an ancient military track running between avalanche start zones above and big cliffs below, followed by a brief respite in the aforesaid tunnel, then more sidehill traversing, with a finale of tree skiing before reaching our ride at a local highway. Would The Prostitute grant us a discrete exit? Or keep us in her clutches to extract payment? I ditched any idea of applying the brakes and shot along the track beneath avalanche chutes and over successive zones of debris until rounding a last pile of mud-streaked chunks brought the open tunnel into view. Just enough snow had sluffed inside to permit hurling myself sideways on the last patch of sunlight and hockey-stopping inside the entrance short of piling up on verglas -covered boulders. The whorehouse equivalent of a smoke break between rounds. Blatantly sexist to current hyper-attentive sensibilities, but in Italy, one is never far from history. Even in the highest mountains one views wartime fortifications carved into cliffs or comes across scraps of barbed wire or shell fragments. Glaciers periodically disgorge remains of some unfortunate soldier who escaped being blown to bits only to fall into a crevasse. The village sits at 6, feet, which would be low in Colorado or Utah but is very high for the Alps. Smooth-faced mountains with a jumble of detachable chairlifts rise to the north. Alessio, Cindy my sweetheart and I spend a couple of fun mornings cruising along perfect groomers just long enough to find suitable powder slopes, then off we go. The other side, very much so. Slopes sweep up steepening into a massive, miles-long cliff-wall punctuated by a couple of alpine cirques and several tight couloirs. A modern high-speed gondola scales one of these cirques and passes through a notch in the cliff wall. Beyond that, a high hanging glaciated valley saddles out at 10, feet and gives access to the Adamello Glacier area. If you avoid obsessively demystifying the place ahead of time on Google maps or topo apps, Passo del Tonale and the Adamello Glacier zone are a varied and fascinating area that can yield one discovery after another, including descents of over a vertical mile. As they did for me. One easy hit is known simply as The Couloir. Other areas might have more snow but be overrun with people, or have the biggest relief and the most impressive peaks but get great snow only about every 10 th year. After all, we were in Italy , a culture that lives and breathes wonderful food, wine and coffee. I say that only because, historically, Italian establishments had a very uncertain relationship with plumbing. Not here. In addition, there was some bizarre lighting circuitry in which LEDs would randomly dissolve among various garish colours. Of course, I was here to do real touring. The snowfall had resumed after our descents of The Couloir and The Prostitute and, as we rode the gondola the next morning, we saw the wind had blown as well. Traversing from the top station was pure slab. We travelled ultra-conservatively, staying on low ridgetops, ever-conscious of hazards above, below and beside. Not so some others. One guy on skinny ski-mo gear kicked off a wind slab, got carried down a ways, picked himself up and promptly skied into a huge slab pillow, burying himself neck-deep. Lower down, some split-boarders were ripping turns on a sun-baked slope that had already detached three slabs. Alessio and I timed things to shoot across between their runs as far from the run outs as we could get. At last we were in the relative safety of the skin-up area. Across ran the long, sinuous, heavily crevassed Adamello Glacier. And beyond that, numerous additional peaks and glaciers that would warrant a multi-week visit rather than my meagre four days. The Adamello Glacier and its huts are where a young Polish cleric named Karol Wojtyla many decades ago would visit for the feelings of height, solitude and physical effort that, he felt, brought him closer to God. He went on to climb major peaks in the Himalayas, summiting Dhaulagiri, and also crossing the North Pole. Alessio and I had a more achievable summit in mind. We were able to stay on a relatively protected shoulder for much of the two-and-a-half-hour ascent. I kept thinking that my Canadian avalanche course instructors would suffer a series of heart attacks, strokes and exploding heads at the sight of me right now, and my choice of route would flunk me out of any Canadian course. Before long we were at our saddle and into the usual ritual of unskinning, swapping layers, having a drink and snack and clamping down our boots. A few other ski tourers and splitboarders were doing the same, and all were questioning Alessio and wondering why a North American would come here. Although it sounds too good to be true, the slopes we were contemplating had been copiously dumped upon but looked utterly untouched by wind. Blower wherever any snow could settle, framed by massive cliffs. We pushed off, well-spaced, and were instantly waist-deep and engulfed not merely by face-shots but descending entire face pitches. As we stopped between pitches, we looked up and noticed a couple of them skiing in our tracks. One section was, admittedly, too flat to turn much even on our wider skis. Gradient soon returned, however, and three successively steeper pitches followed. One of them must have been 1, vertical feet all by itself. Though still very light, the snow was slightly settled, allowing us to accelerate into fast ripping turns, throwing our skis far out away from us and ending up nearly chest-deep at each apex. Now we were in a narrow valley beneath a mile of rocky, snow-blasted relief in the dazzling late-morning sun. At the mouth of this valley lay the village of Ponte di Legno at 4, feet. After shooting past the last danger zone, another 2, vertical feet of pleasant glades, tree skiing and zig-zaggy forest trail lay ahead. Everything remained attached. This winter I'm hoping to put my new guiding certification to use by tail-guiding at one or two B. Currently you have JavaScript disabled. In order to post comments, please make sure JavaScript and Cookies are enabled, and reload the page. Click here for instructions on how to enable JavaScript in your browser. Search for:. Defying the Prostitute. George Koch. George Koch This winter I Notify of. Inline Feedbacks. On Stands Now! Ascent Store. Instagram Feed ascentbackcountry. In an effort to reduce crowded slopes, and direct. Salt Lake City friends, pick it up now at your fav. Jackson Hole friends! Pick up the new issue in tow. Slopeside accommodations. Here it is! Now taking subscription orders for imm. Ruby Mountains days and cowboy nights. A great wee. Here we go. Just a couple of days until it goes to. A trip to Tahoe for some Sierra fun. Wind, snow, s. Besides the Ascent, there are some other good ones. Dreaming of Antarctica…. Thanks to the utavy for hosting the annual fundra. 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Registration's totally free, of course, and makes snowHeads easier to use and to understand, gives better searching, filtering etc. When you register, you get our free weekly -ish snow report by email. It's rather good and not made up by tourist offices or people that love the tourist office and want to marry it either We don't share your email address with anyone and we never send out any of those cheesy 'message from our partners' emails either. Anyway, snowHeads really is MUCH better when you're logged in - not least because you get to post your own messages complaining about things that annoy you like perhaps this banner which, incidentally, disappears when you log in Username:- Password:. Or: Register to be a proper snow-head, all official-like! Prev topic :: Next topic. Poster: A snowHead. I'm going to be a bit controversial and say Chamonix. I don't like the unconnected nature of the 5 areas, or the queues to get up GM early in the morning. I also didn't like the attitude on GM. It was as though if you weren't a seasonaire or sponsored skier, you weren't welcome there. In the town, the nightlife was good but staying in the town is expensive and noisy. Staying in Les Praz is cheaper but you could die there and no one would know. I really wanted to like it, but wouldn't go back. Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person. The OP asked for people's opinions, not scientific analysis. It's a fun thread, list the negative instead of the positive of each resort. But just like listing positives, I may very well dislike what you consider as positive. So naturally, people argue about what's negative or not. The opening statement of 'you won't return' is a bit strong. So the strong reaction is to be expected. Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see? Whistler - Liked the town, but didn't find the skiing very interesting. Also the lack of sun and the wet heavy snow were no fun. St Anton - No real reason, just didn't like it. Alpe D'Huez - I didn't like it when I spent a week there, but having a guide take us from top to bottom off-piste for an awesome couple of days, when conditions weren't great in La Grave made me realise that you can't judge a place until you've seen the best it has to offer. You need to Login to know who's really who. Quote: I wouldn't choose to return to Mayrhofen as you can't ski back to the town. Mostly correct but you can from the Ahorn. Snowed so much one year we were there we skied right through town to our guest house. Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do. I would return to everywhere we have skied but the one I would be least likely to book again would be Passo Tonale due to the limited ski area. Fantastic hotel but in my opinion not a huge choice of runs. You'll need to Register first of course. I don't mind this thread, it highlights the diverse list of aspects people want from their skiing experiences. If we all wanted the same thing there would be no diversity on offer. Personally for me it is not only about the skiing on offer, or the conditions, or even the accommodation. There's more to it. I seek something more wholesome. Being somewhere with a pulse. I'm not really a summer holiday person, but if I was I would have no interest in an all-inclusive tourist enclave. Each to their own eh? Then you can post your own questions or snow reports After all it is free. An interesting diversion, or broadening out from QB. My first response to the thread was to say that I will never go back to St Anton. You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net. In reality none, being in the mountains and skiing beats being at home, but given the choice, I'd not return to L2A, seemed to see more blood wagons and heli sretchers being used there than anywhere else I've been. Also Obergurgl, disjointed area and limited piste skiing. Ski the Net with snowHeads. I'll add Zermatt to this thread. The village was nice, but we found a very arrogant crowd. I wouldnt return to any purpose built resort or big french station and definitely not in a chalet or self catering nothing to do with the skiing more an age thing on my and oh part. When younger with a young family in tow found them great but now older much prefer a nice hotel run by a family who have lived in the place for years and appreciate their village and my custom. And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports. So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much. You know it makes sense. Have to agree with previous comments about St Anton - I used to love the place, tried to get there as often as I could during the season in the mid-late 90's - went back a couple of years ago and couldn't see it far enough. Might be an age thing, but found it too young and full of people who were more interested in clubbing than skiing. The skiing is amazing, but dodging stag parties killed it for me. I wouldn't head back to Soll in a hurry either. Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:. Le Corbier - the 'front de neige' is the ugliest 60s purpose-built concrete monstrosity I've ever been to. Some so-so skiing didn't make up for a really dismal place. StAnton is really getting a pasting! Mind you, I made a similar observation in another thread not long ago. After 12 visits since I have come to the conclusion that being over in Lech or Zurs is the best option for that neck of the woods. Talking skiing here. I don't care much for the night life anymore. Book and a few beers in an apartment for me. Even better with the connection to Warth and Schroken now. My first ever trip and if I'd never been I quite possibly have never ever skied. I might visit for a day but Similarly, me and 'er did 5 seasons in Brand! Yes, I know! I have visited since but only for the day. Just back from Wengen. Always wanted to go. The Eiger, the railway connection bit of a railway enthusiast supposed lack of traffic. Been there, won't go again. Not a very convenient place to be based. I was always watching the weather and time in the afternoon in case we deeded to escape fast. No, you can't rely on the train to get you back. Won't go to the States again. Gone off long haul though if somebody would 'beam' me there I would return to Telluride or Aspen. Tried Whistler once. Very lucky with the lack of rain on that visit! Probably better now Blackcomb is connected at high level but not good enough for the trek. Lots of places in between but none that particularly would get me to return. So next time? Looks like LZ but might give Fiss a try. Not too far in from StA we drive usually and I liked Serfaus when we went about 25 years back and now it seems all connected up with Ladis as well There's a winky at the end. I've also enjoyed visiting the towns of Courmayeur and Madonna in Italy although the former has a very small ski area. I spent one day skiing in Zermatt too which looked like a lovely town, I'd love to go back one day. Ok, I'll bite - Meribel. I've never been so glad to get out of a ski town so quickly. The skiing was great, the snow was excellent. But the town just seemed to suck the soul out of everything that I think skiing means. I can handle purpose built ugly resorts, I can take low villages with poor snow. What really grated was the over population of Brits, the terrible gap-yah nature of all the bars, and price of pretty much everything in resort. So many chalets so far out from the lift system, overabundance of 4x4s driving like idiots ferrying their clients about, too many people skiing back home drunk after a boozy lunch. And yes, I know this makes me sound like a grumpy anti-social old man which I'm not I'd go back to the 3V for the terrain, just try and stay higher up in VT. It is just full of people so far out of control you can't relax and enjoy the skiing, which is tame and hilariously over-graded - we skied blacks that would be barely blue in France. Several near misses literally every day while we were there. Fine for partying if cheap booze and cigarettes are your thing, but don't bother skiing there. Digger the dinosaur wrote: Andorra. Cheers for the heads up, we're going Andorra in 5 weeks Which resort did you stay in? I hardly see that. Maybe I'm the one taking everyone out. Maybe I just choose my rides, time-of-day and resort well. Maybe my standard of judging out-of-control is different. I don't see any more prats around here, that I've seen in any resort I've been too - I personally think US resorts are far worse. I haven't felt that there was more people out of control there than anywhere else. I also feel you might of over stated the grading a touch. Not something I noticed either. The Dolomites! Tignes les Brevieres at Xmas was excellent, some runs bashed flat for carving, others left to go natural including blues so that intermediates could try the bumps without having to go on a steep black. St Anton this year was a bit disappointing, too busy even in January, as others have said, staying in Lech gives better access to the skiing, I'm more about who I ski with rather than where, so there's lots of places I would not choose myself but would go there as part of a group. How's the infrastructure - lifts, piste bashing etc? Scamper , I haven't spent much time there but I liked it. Where are you going? I stayed in Soldeu, which is nicer than Pas de la Casa but not really a village. Really liked the skiing, resort is well maintained with good lifts. It's not cheap. The food isn't great. I stayed in Ordino recently and skied Arcalis and really liked it there. Nice town, great food and great skiing. Different resort to Grandvalira though. Big ski area, with a great ski school, and reputation for sunny days! Of course, it depends whether you like that sort of thing. I've only skied the GV area apart from a day in Arinsal 20 years ago, I've spent more time in GV than any other area because a friend of the family has an apartment there so we could have two weeks for less than the price of one elsewhere. The lifts are fairly good, even at half term, the only bad queues are at the links to Pas de la Casa and the gondola out of Soldeu 1st thing Monday morning. I have very little experience of ski school elsewhere but have been very happy with the Soldeu ski school and child care, I have used the ski school myself dozens of times for social skiing as much as anything. It's pisted to death, love this or hate this, you will find very few moguls or challenging piste skiing here though the wide black running down to Soldeu is great for carving, there's often some small ridges that you can catch a bit of air over. Offpiste is fairly limited but doesn't get tracked out as quickly as some places, there used to be some excellent challenging tree skiing but this area has been closed as a nature reserve now. Quote: The Dolomites! In all of the places I've been, I've found myself on some amazing quiet runs where I've felt on top of the world, skiing around enjoying the sunshine and the views or the snowfall and the silence in some cases — which are the moments I remember the most. It's really interesting though to hear people's experiences of various resorts and to get ideas for future trips! Thanks v much for the replies about Andorra, you've put it back on the list for us. No definite place in mind as we are nomadic motorhome skiers can wild camp for a couple of days but prefer the 'luxury' of campsites who fancied including Andorra in our journey. We've both come to skiing in our later years and prefer piste'd runs so Andorra sounds good to us. I don't think I would bother to go to Aveimore again, It may have improved since but I doubt it. I thought it was a ski resort when I went up there, but I realised when I got there that that was only a rumour. I was very disappointed with Neiderau I see Cervinia takes a lot of flack, I liked it, I think its great. I got caught out taking a 'pot luck' with Crystal a few years ago.. Thank you Crystalski, I learnt my lesson. Scamper wrote: Very interested in all your opinions about Andorra - is any resort better than another? I've been to Pas three times and its always been good. The runs are pisted but that's what I like so I'm off to the Dolomites now because of just that. The town is not pretty but as our hotel was on the slopes and had everything we needed we didn't bother to wander about much. It has never been too busy either and not too expensive although that is changing. It's on the side of the Grand Valira, you go through a couple of valleys to get to Soldeu. Arinsal is for beginners but not any the worse for that. Arcalis is nice but it's kind of on it's own. We had to get buses there from Arinsal but that was quite a few years ago now. I don't think there is any accommodation there although that might of changed. Would I go back? No, coz there is so many other places to ski and so little time. Can't see me skiing there again. Too low, bland and limited. Summertime though different kettle of fish. Great walking trails and apparently one of the best places going to try out paragliding, though I'll give that a miss. Passo Tonale will probably join the list too, simply because we've been there 3 times now and there are loads of other resorts that need visiting before we shuffle off the mortal coil. Loved the black under the 4 man chair in Niederau, but I did have it all to myself March I think. Blimey, this proves just what a marmite thing a ski resort is - i'd disagree with so many comments on here. There is only one resort I've not liked - Valmeinier in the Maurienne in France. Lots of narrow runs, not much variety, very ordinary choice of restaurants and too few for the resort, frustrating lift set up, had the trots midweek, poor grooming etc. However, would I go there rather than not ski at all?? Of course I would, I'd be back there like a shot and the Valloire side was much nicer. A lot depends on who you are with and whether the conditions are good. Some people have said La Rosiere is quiet: it wasn't each time I was there. The main bar Petite Danoise or Le Comptoir was fun and I left it smashed on a few occasions, saw some good bands and drank well. Also La Roz and La Thuile combined as a venue are great: loads of variety and some showpiece pistes: Black 2 and 3 on the Italy side and loads of snow every time I've been. Also, amazes me that people call La Plagne boring. It's got loads of skiing and loads of variety outside of the main bowl and Les Arcs is a joy. I've stayed both sides. In the right company most ski resorts are great. Although low ones scare me now - I loved Valmorel, charming little resort and Morzine - but skiing in the pissing rain is awful. New Topic Post Reply. Snow Snow Snow! Solo Skiers v Groups - Orga Archives Lost and Found Ski Club of Great Britain To one side secret Mountain Hideout snowShops You cannot post to forums until you login You cannot read some forums until you login Read about snow conditions : snow conditions And leave your own snow report : snow report Find advice to help plan your ski holidays : ski holidays The snowHeads Ski Club : Ski Club 2. Terms and conditions Privacy Policy. Snow Reports. Chill out haters, this is a great idea for a thread. I wouldn't choose to return to Mayrhofen as you can't ski back to the town. After all it is free After all it is free. So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much. Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name: Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:. Digger the dinosaur wrote:. Scamper wrote:. Very interested in all your opinions about Andorra - is any resort better than another? DrLawn wrote:.

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