PSAM Myers Pump: Reducing Water Hammer Risks

PSAM Myers Pump: Reducing Water Hammer Risks


A cold shower, rattling pipes, and the sound of a hammer inside your walls—water hammer is more than a nuisance. It’s a punishing pressure spike that can loosen pipe joints, rupture fittings, fatigue a well drop pipe, and destroy a pump check valve. In the field I’ve scoped spikes north of 150 psi during quick fixture closures and kickback from misapplied check valves. If you rely on a private well, you can’t afford that kind of shock.

Two nights ago, the Esquivel family in rural Lancaster County, Pennsylvania got a brutal reminder. Sofia Esquivel (37), a trauma nurse, heard a metallic thud every time the upstairs toilet valve shut. Her husband, Daniel (39), a high school agriculture teacher, had just replaced a budget 1 HP submersible from a big-box brand the previous owner had installed. Their 240-foot well and a small 20-gallon pressure tank were no match for the hydraulic spikes. The tees, elbows, and drop pipe joint at the pitless adapter were getting hammered. Within weeks the old pump’s internal check valve cracked, pressure bled off, and the cycling got worse. When their water went to a trickle at 6 a.m., they called PSAM.

If you’re dealing with slamming pipes, pulsing faucets, or early pump failure, this list is for you. We’re going to cover: why sized right matters, how 300 series stainless dampens stress, the role of multi-stage hydraulics, check valve placement for quiet operation, Pentek XE motor control for smooth starts, correct pressure tank precharge, pressure switch deadband, staged flow control, house-side snubbers and arrestors, well plumbing best practices, and what to upgrade when you replace your unit. Myers Predator Plus Series submersibles—sold and supported by PSAM—give you the tools to cut water hammer at the source while delivering quiet, efficient flow day after day. Let’s get you a steady system that protects your investment.

Before we dive in, a quick credibility note: I’m Rick Callahan, PSAM’s technical advisor. I’ve been sizing submersible well pump systems and chasing down plumbing gremlins for decades. Myers—and especially the Predator Plus Series with 300 series stainless steel and the Pentek XE motor—is on my short list because I’ve seen it solve real problems reliably.

Now, here’s my top 10.

#1. Pump Sizing to Kill the Spike — Match TDH, GPM, and Stages Using Pump Curve Analysis

Undersized or wildly oversized pumps are top culprits for water hammer. A pump that slams into shut-off head too quickly or one that outpaces plumbing capacity creates surge energy that has to go somewhere—often into your fittings. Using the pump curve, I target your TDH (total dynamic head) and household demand to pick a multi-stage pump that operates near its BEP (best efficiency point). For many homes, 7–12 GPM at 40/60 psi is ideal.

A Myers submersible well pump from the Predator Plus Series lets us choose staging and horsepower—say a 1 HP at 10 GPM with a shut-off head near 360–420 feet—so the unit doesn’t overshoot your system. This protects your pressure switch, check valves, and drop pipe, and keeps fixture closures quieter.

For Daniel and Sofia Esquivel’s 240-foot well with a static water level around 85 feet and a drawdown to 140 feet at peak use, I sized a 1 HP Myers at 10 GPM with 13 stages on 230V single-phase—landed right on the curve for 50 psi delivery at the house with headroom. Their hammer vanished.

Pro Steps for Real Sizing (No Guesswork) Map static water level, pumping level under flow, vertical lift, friction loss, and desired pressure. Factor 2–5 psi per story. Cross-check the pump curve at 40/60 or 50/70 psi to ensure operation near the BEP. Favor multi-stage configurations for smoother pressure ramps and quieter stops. The Esquivel Fix

I ran their numbers: TDH ~270–290 feet under simultaneous shower + laundry. The selected Myers 1 HP hit ~10 GPM at that head. Quiet starts. No overshoot. No slam.

Key Takeaway

Right-sized pumps don’t fight your plumbing—they flow with it. Start at the curve, end with a silent system.

#2. Stainless Where It Counts — 300 Series Stainless Steel Shell, Discharge, and Wear Components

Water hammer isn’t just noise; it’s structural stress. Corrosion-thinned housings and bowls deform easier during transients. The Predator Plus Series uses 300 series stainless steel for the shell, discharge bowl, shaft coupling, wear ring, and suction screen. That means high corrosion resistance in mineral-rich or mildly acidic water and consistent geometry that holds up under pressure fluctuations.

The materials matter in a pressure surge. Stainless retains dimensional integrity, so impeller-to-diffuser spacing stays correct and the pump recovers predictably after a rapid valve closure. That predictability keeps the hydraulic profile stable—one more nudge toward eliminating hammer.

Stainless vs. the Real World Acidic groundwater? Stainless resists pitting that can cascade into efficiency loss. Pressure cycling from quick-acting fixtures? Stainless components maintain alignment and reduce vibration. Field Note from the Esquivels

Their old pump showed internal wear and a nicked diffuser from sand and repeated surges. The Predator Plus stainless components gave them a fresh baseline—quiet and resilient.

Key Takeaway

Strong materials ride out surges better. Stainless is your friend when the plumbing gets rowdy.

#3. Multi-Stage, Self-Lubricating Hydraulics — Teflon-Impregnated Staging That Cushions Closure

Hammer energy is born where velocity meets sudden stop. Inside the pump, friction and backlash amplify the stress if parts bind or score. Myers uses Teflon-impregnated staging with self-lubricating impellers engineered to resist grit. That low-friction contact keeps internal hydraulics smooth when flows change fast.

These engineered composite impellers don’t grab when the pressure switch cuts out or when a fixture snaps shut. Each stage adds a little head at a low per-stage velocity, which means the system is easier to bring to a smooth stop.

Less Friction, Less Noise Teflon-impregnated surfaces reduce micro-stutter as flow decays. The result: fewer pressure spikes echoing up the line. Esquivel Result

Their faucets stopped “thumping” at closure. Composite staging plus correct staging count delivered a soft landing every time.

Key Takeaway

Smooth internal hydraulics equal gentle system behavior. Quiet in the well means quiet in the walls.

#4. Smart Motor, Gentle Starts — Pentek XE High-Thrust Motor with Thermal and Lightning Protection

Starts and stops are hammer’s favorite times to strike. A harsh inrush can jolt plumbing, while a hot, marginal motor increases cycling. The Pentek XE motor used in Myers Predator Plus delivers high thrust with efficient windings, smoother torque ramp, and built-in thermal overload protection and lightning protection. Fewer nuisance trips, steadier delivery at your set pressure, and less rapid cycling equals fewer spikes.

A steady motor also maintains speed under load so the pump doesn’t “race” at low demand. That steadiness controls surge energy during transitions and helps your pressure switch and pressure tank do their jobs.

Field Benefits Cooler operation extends bearing life and reduces vibration. Reliable restart after power blips keeps pressures stable. Esquivel Snapshot

With the Myers Pentek XE 1 HP, their starts felt softer—audibly and on the gauge. No more jump to 80 psi on cut-out; just clean 60 and done.

Key Takeaway

A tough, efficient motor with protection electronics is like good suspension on a truck—everything rides better.

#5. Check Valves Done Right — Internal Check, One and Done Above Ground, and Zero Backspin

Nothing creates hammer faster than column water reversing through a failed check valve. Predator Plus includes an internal check valve to stop reverse flow right at the source. Then, install one high-quality spring check valve topside—within 25–30 feet of the well or before the pressure tank—and stop there. Stacking checks creates trapped columns and pressure pinch-points that slam shut.

Correct check valve strategy, paired with a pump that holds pressure, prevents backspin and protects bearings. Keep the flow path clean, eliminate reverse velocity, and water hammer loses its fuel.

Check Valve Rules I Don’t Break Internal check in the pump: use it. One external spring check: place it smartly. No daisy chains of checks. Ever. Esquivel Setup

We relied on the internal check and installed a single spring check at the basement entry ahead of the tank. Their nightly “bang” at the tee disappeared immediately.

Key Takeaway

One good check up top, one in the pump, and zero water column whiplash. Simple wins.

#6. Tank and Switch Harmony — Correct Pressure Tank Precharge and Pressure Switch Deadband

When the pressure tank is undersized or undercharged, the pressure swing is too tight and the pump cycles rapidly. Every quick start/stop risks hammer. I size tanks so drawdown matches demand—typically a 44–86-gallon tank for most homes—with precharge set 2 psi below cut-in (e.g., 38 psi for a 40/60 switch). The pressure switch deadband must match your household’s high-use pattern. Wider deadband reduces short cycling and gives fixtures time to close without slamming into the cut-out.

Pairing a Predator Plus pump with the right tank volume creates a hydraulic flywheel that softens closures.

Setup Tips Confirm actual house-side cut-in/cut-out with a calibrated gauge, then precharge the tank correctly. If you routinely spike at closure, consider 50/70 with an appropriately sized tank and piping that can handle it—just ensure the pump curve supports it. Esquivel Changes

We replaced their 20-gallon tank with a 62-gallon unit, set precharge to 38 psi, and recalibrated the switch. Suddenly, shower to dishwasher transitions were calm.

Key Takeaway

Tank and switch harmony is hammer prevention at the system level. Don’t skimp here.

#7. Two-Wire For Simplicity, Three-Wire For Control — Choose the Configuration That Reduces Cycling

Selecting 2-wire vs 3-wire isn’t about “better”—it’s about the right control strategy. A 2-wire well pump (capacitor and relay internal) is clean and trouble-free for straightforward residential systems and reduces control box complexity. A 3-wire well pump with an external control box can make sense when you want easier above-ground service on starts and capacitors or plan to integrate advanced controls.

From a water hammer standpoint, fewer components that fail equals fewer erratic pressure events. In many homes, a Myers 2-wire Predator Plus at 230V offers smooth, reliable operation with less to go wrong.

My Rule of Thumb Up to 1.5 HP at typical depths? 2-wire Myers is often the most stable, least fussy option. Complex multi-zone irrigation or booster integration? 3-wire adds serviceability and tuning. Esquivel Choice

The Esquivels went 2-wire 1 HP at 230V. No external box to fail, neat wiring, and consistent starts that kept pressures even.

Key Takeaway

Pick the wiring that simplifies your life and stabilizes pressure. For many homes, 2-wire Myers is the quiet champion.

#8. Flow Control and Line Sizing — Throttling, 1-1/4" NPT Drops, and Gentle Velocities

High-velocity water is loud water—and it’s hammer-prone. Myers Predator Plus pumps include a 1-1/4" NPT discharge. Use it. Upsize the drop pipe and house main to keep velocities under 5 ft/s where possible. If your pump is slightly “hot” on the curve, use a quality ball valve on the discharge to trim to the quiet spot. Controlled flow equals controlled shutdown behavior.

A light throttle can move pump operation closer to the BEP, improve hydraulic efficiency, and reduce the immediate energy available for a slam if a fixture closes fast.

Practical Targets 1-1/4" drop pipe to the pitless, 1" minimum to the tank tee. Use long-sweep elbows and minimize abrupt tees before the tank. Esquivel Plumbing

We replaced a run of 3/4" copper from the pitless with 1" PEX, added long-sweep fittings, and throttled 10% on the tank tee valve. The manometer told the story—no rebound spikes at cut-out.

Key Takeaway

Velocity control is hammer control. Size your lines to keep the water calm.

#9. Arrestors, Snubbers, and Anchoring — Tame Fixture Shock and Stop Pipe Rattle

Whole-house harmony needs local fixes, too. Quick-acting appliances—washers, ice makers, some faucets—snap valves shut. Install high-quality water hammer arrestors close to those offenders. Add a pressure snubber on the pressure switch gauge port to protect the switch and reduce flicker. Anchor vertical piping near the tank and at the entry to stop resonance.

The Myers pump’s quiet hydraulics set the stage; point-of-use controls finish the job.

Device Placement That Works Arrestors at laundry and quick-closing fixtures. Snubber at the tank tee gauge for a steady needle and reliable cut-out. Secure the drop and house main with padded clamps. Esquivel Touches

Two arrestors at the laundry and a snubber on the gauge took the last bit of chatter out of the system. Sofia noticed the silence on the first wash cycle.

Key Takeaway

Pair a quiet pump with smart fixture damping. Silence is a system sport.

#10. Install Like a Pro — Torque Arrestor, Safety Rope, Wire Splice Kit, and Pitless Placement

Even the best pump can’t fix poor installs. Use a torque arrestor to prevent motor start twist from whipping the drop pipe. Secure a safety rope. Use a proper wire splice kit and strain relief. Seat the pitless at a depth that avoids turbulence and freezing. Align the pump 5–10 feet above the well bottom to avoid sediment intake—gentler inflow is less hammer-prone at shut-off.

Myers’ threaded assembly is field serviceable, which means you can maintain and repair without full replacement—critical when preventing repeat hammer-related failures like cracked fittings or dislodged checks.

Accessory Checklist from PSAM Torque arrestor, cable guard, safety rope. Pitless adapter matched to casing. Clean electrical terminations with heat-shrink splices. Esquivel Install

We set the Myers pump at 160 feet (20 feet above drawdown), used a torque arrestor and cable guards, and dressed the wiring clean. Starts were smooth, no twist, no chatter.

Key Takeaway

Good installation is preventative medicine for hammer. Build it right; it stays quiet.

Comparison Deep-Dive: Myers vs Goulds and Red Lion — Material Strength and Hammer Resilience

From a materials standpoint, Myers Predator Plus uses extensive 300 series stainless steel in its shell, discharge, wear components, and suction screen. That corrosion-resistant base keeps hydraulic geometry stable under pressure cycles and hammer events. Goulds offers respected options, but several models rely on mixed metals including cast iron components that can corrode in acidic water and lose dimensional accuracy over time. Red Lion, positioned mid-market, frequently uses thermoplastic housings that are lighter but more susceptible to cracking under recurrent surge loads and thermal expansion.

On the job, dense stainless construction translates into consistent impeller alignment and diffuser spacing during rapid transitions. That stability reduces internal turbulence at shut-off, which lowers the amplitude of reflected pressure waves. Thermoplastics can flex and return, but repeated flexing creates fatigue points. Cast iron resists initially but corrodes faster in tough water, encouraging pump noise and inefficiency.

Over 10 years, a quiet, dimensionally stable pump spares fittings, elbows, and check valves—and protects your tank diaphragm from shock. Myers pairs this with Pentair-backed engineering and a 3-year warranty. For whole-property water reliability, that’s worth every single penny.

Comparison Deep-Dive: Myers vs Franklin Electric — Serviceability, Simplicity, and Long-Term Cost

Franklin Electric builds solid submersibles, but many of their systems lean on proprietary control boxes and dealer networks for routine service. Myers Predator Plus counters with a field serviceable threaded assembly and broad compatibility that any qualified contractor—or prepared homeowner—can maintain. In practical terms, reduced dependency on specific boxes and dealer-only procedures shortens downtime and lowers service costs.

Electrically, the Myers-paired Pentek XE motor offers efficient thrust and protective features that prevent nuisance cycling and thermal trips—common preconditions for hammer. Hydraulically, Predator Plus staging targets high hydraulic efficiency near BEP, reducing wasted energy and heat. This steadiness translates to fewer pressure swings and a cooler, quieter system.

If you’re rural and every day without water means hauling jugs, serviceability is not a luxury. Add the 36-month warranty and PSAM’s same-day shipping on in-stock units, and the operational math tilts harder toward Myers. Over a decade, avoiding proprietary bottlenecks, keeping your pump efficient, and keeping pressures stable is worth every single penny.

Comparison Deep-Dive: Myers vs Budget Brands (Everbilt/Flotec) — Durability, Warranty, and Hammer Fallout

Budget submersibles promise low upfront cost, but I see a familiar pattern: 3–5 year lifespans, tired bearings, and internal checks that start leaking. Once a check valve seeps, column reversal begins, and hammer follows. Myers’ 3-year warranty, Teflon-impregnated staging, and stainless build push typical service life solidly into the 8–15 year window, with many well-cared-for systems running past 20.

Energy-wise, operating at 80%+ efficiency near BEP trims electric bills and reduces heat—a silent contributor to long-term reliability. Budget units often run off-curve, pulling more amps to do the same work, leading to hotter motors and more frequent cycling. That’s a recipe for spikes, chatter, and premature tank and fitting failures.

When you add the hidden costs—extra service calls, replacement downtime, and collateral plumbing repairs from water hammer—cheap becomes expensive fast. Myers, backed by Pentair engineering and PSAM support, is a reliability decision that’s worth every single penny.

FAQ — Myers, Water Hammer, and Your Well System 1) How do I determine the correct horsepower for my well depth and household water demand?

Start with TDH: static level, pumping level under flow, vertical rise to the tank, friction loss, and desired house pressure (e.g., 50 psi ≈ 115 feet of head). Then match that head at your target flow on the pump curve. Most households land in the 7–12 GPM window. At 150–250 feet of head, a 3/4 HP or 1 HP submersible well pump often fits; at 300–400 feet, 1–1.5 HP is common. For the Esquivels at ~280 feet TDH and 10 GPM, a 1 HP Predator Plus was perfect. Pro tip: pick a model that operates near BEP at your typical flow. This reduces heat, cycling, and hammer. PSAM can verify the numbers with you—have your well report and recent pressure readings handy.

2) What GPM flow rate does a typical household need and how do multi-stage impellers affect pressure?

Typical homes are comfortable at 7–12 GPM. Large households or irrigation zones may need 12–20 GPM. Multi-stage submersibles stack pressure in small increments, which provides smoother head buildup versus single-stage pumps. That’s vital for hammer control: gentler pressure profiles mean less stored energy is released when a fixture closes. On a 40/60 switch and a 62-gallon tank, a 10 GPM Myers will maintain steady delivery through showers, laundry, and dishwasher without surging. If you have multiple high-demand fixtures, we can step to a 15-stage model with a matched Pentek XE motor to hold pressure quietly.

3) How does the Myers Predator Plus Series achieve 80% hydraulic efficiency compared to competitors?

High efficiency comes from precision engineered composite impellers, tight staging tolerances, and 300 series stainless PSAM myers pump wear components that hold geometry over time. Operating near BEP on the curve minimizes recirculation losses. The Pentek XE motor reduces electrical losses and heat, keeping performance stable under load. Efficient pumps don’t need to “race” to maintain pressure—so they cycle less and spike less. Over a year, many homes see 10–20% energy savings vs off-curve or budget units, and that lower heat load translates into longer seal and bearing life. Less cycling, less heat, less hammer—it’s a virtuous circle.

4) Why is 300 series stainless steel superior to cast iron for submersible well pumps?

Underground environments are unforgiving. 300 series stainless steel resists corrosion in mineralized or mildly acidic groundwater where cast iron can pit and weaken. When housings and bowls corrode, internal clearances change, efficiency drops, vibration rises, and transient events get louder. Stainless parts maintain alignment under load and during pressure surges, which keeps impeller tracks true. That stability translates to smoother shutdown behavior—key to reducing water hammer. In my repairs, stainless-bodied pumps stay quiet and efficient years longer, especially in wells with iron bacteria or aggressive chemistry.

5) How do Teflon-impregnated self-lubricating impellers resist sand and grit damage?

Myers uses Teflon-impregnated staging with self-lubricating impellers, which reduces friction at contact points and sheds micro-abrasives better than plain plastics. Fine grit can score impellers and diffusers, increasing turbulence and noise. The low-friction surface limits wear, and consistent hydraulic channels keep flows laminar as you approach shut-off. That matters for hammer—scored parts chatter during closure. If your well produces occasional sand, pair the pump with a proper intake screen height (5–10 feet off bottom) and consider a sediment filter at the tank tee.

6) What makes the Pentek XE high-thrust motor more efficient than standard well pump motors?

The Pentek XE motor leverages optimized windings and thrust bearings to support higher stage counts with less electrical loss. Integrated thermal overload protection prevents overheating during heavy draw, and lightning protection increases survivability during storms—both reduce nuisance cycling. Efficiency here isn’t just about kilowatts; a stable, cool motor holds speed under load, so the pump curve performance stays predictable. That predictability means cleaner transitions at your pressure switch setpoints—one more step toward eliminating hammer. Expect steady current draw at 230V and consistent delivery across the switch band.

7) Can I install a Myers submersible pump myself or do I need a licensed contractor?

A capable DIYer can install a Myers with careful attention to detail: correct wire gauge, solid wire splice kit heat-shrinks, a torque arrestor, safety rope, proper check valve placement, and safe lifting practices. However, at 150+ feet and 1 HP or more, I recommend a licensed well contractor for safety and speed. A pro will also dial in the pressure tank precharge and fine-tune throttling to avoid hammer. If you DIY, call PSAM—ask for Rick’s checklist—and we’ll walk you through drop pipe sizing, pitless adapter seating, and pressure switch calibration. Safety first; pumps are heavy and wells are unforgiving.

8) What’s the difference between 2-wire and 3-wire well pump configurations?

A 2-wire well pump has start components inside the motor—simpler wiring, fewer external parts, and arguably fewer failure points for many residential systems. A 3-wire well pump uses an external control box with start capacitors and relays—handy for above-ground service and advanced controls. For water hammer, stability wins: the clean, reliable starts from a Myers 2-wire Predator Plus Series at 230V keep pressure transitions predictable. If your application demands control box access (e.g., irrigation integration), 3-wire is fine—just mount the box Plumbing Supply and More myers pump in a dry, accessible location and keep the system tuned.

9) How long should I expect a Myers Predator Plus pump to last with proper maintenance?

Realistically, 8–15 years is common with Myers—longer if your water is clean, the pump is sized near BEP, and maintenance is consistent. I’ve seen well-maintained systems hit 20–30 years. Maintenance that matters: verify pressure tank precharge every 6–12 months, inspect drawdown, listen for cycling changes, check for iron fouling, and test switch accuracy. Keep a log of cut-in/cut-out pressures. Replace worn arrestors and leaking check valves proactively. When the system runs cool and steady, hammer stays away and parts live longer.

10) What maintenance tasks extend well pump lifespan and how often should they be performed? Semi-annual: Check tank precharge (2 psi below cut-in), inspect for leaks, verify cut-in/cut-out accuracy, watch for gauge flutter (add a snubber if needed). Annual: Test flow rate and recovery, inspect electrical connections, and review any filter drops across sediment/carbon units. Every 3–5 years: Pull and inspect only if performance degrades or water chemistry demands it. Replace worn pressure switch if contacts pit. Maintain calm hydraulics and you’ll avoid hammer-induced failures—no cracked fittings, no blown gauges. 11) How does Myers’ 3-year warranty compare to competitors and what does it cover?

Myers’ 3-year warranty outpaces the common 12–18 month coverage from many brands. It covers manufacturing defects and performance issues under normal use. In practice, that means confidence while your system “seasons in”—through winter freeze-thaw, power blips, and seasonal demand changes. Pair the warranty with PSAM’s same-day shipping on in-stock models and my team’s tech support, and you’re covered beyond the paperwork. As always, install to spec—correct voltage, wire gauge, check valve placement, and tank settings—to keep warranty validity airtight.

12) What’s the total cost of ownership over 10 years: Myers vs budget pump brands?

Budget brand: pump cost savings upfront, but 3–5 year replacements, rising electric use due to off-curve operation, and collateral repairs from water hammer (tanks, valves, fittings). Myers: higher initial price, but 8–15 year life, 10–20% energy savings near BEP, and minimal hammer fallout due to strong stainless steel build and Teflon-impregnated staging. Factor two budget replacements plus service calls and you’ve easily exceeded a single Myers purchase and install. Add lower stress on plumbing and it isn’t close—Myers wins on total cost, reliability, and quiet.

Final Word — Why PSAM’s Myers Predator Plus Is the Quiet Fix You’ll Hear Immediately

Water hammer is the sound of energy going where it shouldn’t. Control the hydraulics at the source with a right-sized Myers well pump, let the Pentek XE motor start smooth, set the pressure tank and pressure switch correctly, use one smart check valve above ground, and tame velocities with proper 1-1/4" NPT discharge and pipe sizing. Finish with local arrestors and solid anchoring.

For the Esquivel family, the upgrade to a Myers Predator Plus Series 1 HP—paired with a properly sized tank and corrected plumbing—ended weeks of thuds and anxiety. Their gauge needle is steady, fixtures close without a peep, and morning water pressure is exactly where it should be.

At PSAM, we stock the pumps, the accessories, and the know-how. You get Made in USA quality, UL/CSA confidence, a 36-month warranty, and fast shipping when you’re down. Ready to hear the sound of a healthy system—nothing at all? Call PSAM, ask for Rick, and let’s put a Myers in your well the right way.


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