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Rays of sunshine pierced the clouds above the marshlands of Murnau as the train trundled along the Loisach valley. As we dipped into the basin that cradles Oberammergau, the sun emerged in full splendour, illuminating the tusk-shaped Kofel that towers over the valley. Chalets with carved balconies and flower boxes. A church steeple in the center of town. And mountains all around. And for those who like wandering, both places are close enough to each other that you can traverse the distance on foot in a matter of hours. Oberammergau was relatively quiet on this late October morning, most of the tourist shops already shuttered for the season. Undaunted by this discovery, we forewent our morning beer, tightened our boots, and made straight for the monastery at Ettal. The origins of the Passion Play mingle history and legend. An outbreak of the bubonic plague befell the region in , claiming countless lives. Legend has it that nobody in town died of the plague after that vow. The villagers kept their word, performing the passion play for the first time in , and more or less every decade since. Like most Bavarian towns, Oberammergau has strong ties with beer and brewing. Ludwig Thoma, renowned chronicler of everyday life in Bavaria, was born here in Your amble begins in the center of town at the Church of St. Peter and Paul, a Gothic church with a glittering baroquified interior. From there, wind your way past frescoed chalets toward the Ammer river and follow it south out of town. After about 2 kilometers and dozens of chances to stop and drink in the splendid views of the Kofel, look left for the underpass that leads under the road to Ettal, then continue toward Ettal along a path near the roadway. The path here is dotted with interpretive panels about regional tree species and the animals that inhabit the woods foxes, red deer, badgers, chamois, wood grouses, among others. Soon, visible through the trees in the valley below, there it is! The monastery complex is not only a place of meditation, but also one of Benedictine industriousness: a flourishing brewery and distillery, a cheese factory, a publishing house, and a hotel named after the emperor that granted the monastery its charter. The Benedictine monastery was founded in by Ludwig the Bavarian, but its present form dates to the high Baroque. Following a fire in the mids, architects and artists orchestrated a symphony of white, gold, and coral-coloured marble crowned by a frescoed dome representing the skies opened to heaven. Pilgrims need lodging, food, and drink, and the monks have obliged for centuries. The Klosterbrauerei Ettal was founded in Monks still helm the brewery, offering a small selection of traditional beers. The service is friendly but formal, the guests well heeled. But beer you can still order here, and fine food, too. The Kloster-Dunkel , an attractive bronze beer with mahogany highlights, takes it up a notch, with undertones of cocoa powder, pecans, and baking spice that enhance the dark bread and Ovaltine maltiness. What really elevates this beer is its subtle baking chocolate-like bitterness, making this a thirst-quenching beer worth the walk from Oberammergau. And it goes wonderfully with the deer ragout. The floodplain is sparse but eerily beautiful, traversed by crystal-clear springs feeding the Ammer river. The sun had dipped below the Kofel and the lamps of the village were starting to flicker on. We called in at Restaurant zur Tini , already bustling with families digging in to their meals and regulars chatting with friends over beers. This chalet restaurant is everything you could want from a Bavarian Wirtshaus. A green-tiled Kachelofen warms weary wanderers, while ample wood paneling and whitewashed walls make for a cheerfully bright ambiance. And the food? Bavarian classics abound, along with less common dishes like Kasseler Ripperl, a succulent pork cutlet brined and smoked. The stars were shining brightly by the time we had washed down our meal with plenty of Paulaner. A quick round of schnapps, and we were on our way to the train station for the ride back to Murnau. You could just as well take a bus between Oberammergau and Ettal, but the walk is a better way to see the landscape and work up a thirst. Note that tours of the brewery in Ettal are available only for groups. The kilometer loop hike starts and ends in Oberammergau, the terminus of the trainline from Murnau. Oberammergau is close enough to Munich that you can visit as part of a long daytrip. Garmisch-Partinkirchen, Mittenwald, and Murnau are also nearby. Breweries and Beer Hikes in Murnau. Subscribe to my Beerscapes Newsletter for more beer culture, along with travel tips about where to find the best beer experiences in Europe and beyond. For more, see the Bitburger website. If my work has led you to a new discovery on your travels, if my writing has taken you on a virtual journey from the comfort of your own home, or if my words have simply made you smile, please consider supporting my writing and all that goes into it. Just click the button below:. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. March 4, An Upper Bavarian Idyll Rays of sunshine pierced the clouds above the marshlands of Murnau as the train trundled along the Loisach valley. Odds and Ends You could just as well take a bus between Oberammergau and Ettal, but the walk is a better way to see the landscape and work up a thirst. Kloster Ettal website basilica and brewery. Share with your friends! Author: Franz D. Twenty-Five Beers for Share your thoughts Cancel reply. Kale by LyraThemes.

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