Nylon Super Carbon
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Nylon Super Carbon
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Ionic Hi-Temp Hybrid Support Material - 1.75mm (0.75kg)
Price: $120.00 $115.00 View Addon Β»
PrintDry PRO Filament Drying System
NylonX Carbon Fiber Filament - 1.75mm (3kg)
PrintDry PRO Filament Drying System
Pulse XE - NylonX Professional Bundle
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NylonX is an engineering grade nylon filament which is blended with chopped carbon fibers (approximately 20% by weight), creating a high-strength filament capable of printing tough, shatter-resistant, functional parts.
NylonX is the perfect material for any level maker who is ready to transition into something outside the commonly used PLA and ABS. Don't let printing nylon intimidate you - this material is designed to provide strength, durability, and ease of use. If you are already printing with nylon, give NylonX a try - it will soon be your new favorite!
The best part of NylonX is that the carbon fiber adds stability and rigidity, so parts are much less likely to warp than with standard nylon. This means that printing with NylonX is actually easier than printing with traditional nylon while providing parts that are durable and stiff from the carbon fiber. Additionally, less warping means you can enjoy more accurate printed parts with fewer failed prints.
Create functional, durable, shatter-resistant prints with NylonX.
NylonX is an engineering grade nylon filament which is blended with chopped carbon fibers (approximately 20% by weight), creating a high-strength filament capable of printing tough, shatter-resistant, functional parts.
NylonX is the perfect blend of strength and durability; If you are already printing with nylon it's time to upgrade. NylonXΒ components print with a fantastic matte finish that requires no post-processing. The high precision of this filament makes it a potential replacement for aluminum using 3D printing instead of CNC milling.Β NylonX is the simple answer for anyone in need of robust, high-quality prints.
NylonX creates ready-to-use functional parts with micro-carbon reinforced nylon.
With a unique matte-black finish, that comes out smooth and silky, NylonX all but eliminates post-processing. Finished prints can immediately be moved to production with no sanding, polishing, scraping, or pesky acetone vapor baths. Lessen the time it takes to get parts to production, and eliminate the waste of leftover filament with the print-and-go ease of NylonX.Β
Get outstanding strength and rigidity from carbon-fiber infused NylonX.
With the physical properties of NylonX, the options for 3D printing your favorite projects are unlimited. Use to print:
For rigid parts that can stand up to extreme sports, NylonX can handle any job.
Like all nylons, NylonX must be kept dry!Β If it does not remain packaged with desiccant, it will readily absorb moisture from the air; this will lead to degraded print quality and wasted filament. You can dry it out by using aΒ PrintDry Filament Drying System for more precise dehydration for allΒ filament types.
For more information about printing with NylonX, read ourΒ How To Succeed with NylonX article.
I've used this and CarbonX, the competing 3DX Tech product. Oh my goodness, what a world of difference. The NylonX is everything you want from a carbon nylon product, which is to say excellent strength, superlative layer bonding, exceptional toughness, great bridging, great dimensional stability. Really this is all around my #1 favorite performance filament, and excluding certain applications where carbon filled PC is better, this is what I reach for when I need a high performance part for an end-line product.
This fantastic material couldn't be more different from the 3DX Tech CarbonX. 3DX Tech makes a big point of saying how their material has a higher tensile strength, and this might be possible, however they do so at a major cost of toughness, layer bonding, and all around performance. Their material I'd outright call brittle, it snaps readily even off the spool, whereas NylonX needs to be cut, it doesn't break off the spool. This is the gen3 CarbonX Nylon from 3DX Tech I'm talking about which has these problems.
Needless to say, I'm back on Matterhackers' NylonX and in a big way. The real world product performance is just so much better, and we'll continue to faithfully use it in our production products. The customer support is much better as well. I know this is the question section, however having forwarded this positive feedback to Matterhackers support team, they suggested I share it here. :) I hope this helps anyone comparing the two products.
What is the max operational temperature this can handle?
What is the rate Tg? is it higher or lower than Taulmans Alloy 910?
I dont think this is correct, Nylon has a low Tg but keeps its strength at temperatures above Tg. The Vicat softening point is a better meassure of temperature resistance. Som nylons have a Vicat softening point of 180C with a Tg of 67C as compared to polycarbonate with a Tg of 147 and a Vicat softening point of 140C to 150C
The heat deflection temperature is similar to other nylons - 65-85C depending on the load.
Will NylonX absorb moisture once a part is printed, will absorbing water make the pieces change shape or dimensions
Yes, it will absorb water. No, it will not change shape or dimension.
Will it conduct electricity when wet?
Well, I suppose it will conduct when soaked but we do not have a test with material that has absorbed moisture. The amount of moisture that gets absorbed is not quite as much as you may be thinking of.
The carbon particles are surrounded and attached together with nylon, the nylon is an insulator I don't think the material is conductive I am going to test.
I have had good luck in a heated chamber at 30Β°C with no bed heating, with Cetus build plate
For printing on straight glass, then yes: glue stick with a heated bed.
You can also use a bed made from Garolite LE without heat but then also must use glue stick.
I have good results with a garolite plate that I heat to 60 C, no glue stick. I use a brim and rounded corners on larger parts to spread the stress as well.
We use a sheet of glass heated to 60C with Aquanet extra hold. Works great. We print parts with NylonX every day.
BCN3D Printer with the glass bed at 65C and the 0.4 nozzle at 250C works really well.
Does this print well on a stock Prusa i3 mk2s?
I just used this on my Prusa i3 MK2 and it printed great. Used a hardened steel nozzle and gluestick on the bed. Though I am not sure I even needed the glue stick
Yes, as long as you install a hardened steel nozzle.
How well does NylonX stay together in very cold temperatures?
-20 degrees C. How will that hold up?
What do you mean by "very cold?" As the temperature decreases, it will become more rigid and brittle, as does any other solid material.
WHAT IS THE MATRIX OR BASE THERMOPLASTIC FORMS THIS FILAMENT
in the MSDS it states PA12, it was pretty hard to find as they seem to not mention it anywhere
Can your post process parts be sealed with clear coat or epoxy to prevent moister absorption?
Not all coatings will stick well to nylon, but if your epoxy or coating says it will work with nylon, then yes.
That said, moisture absorption is really not an issue. It will absorb a maximum 1-1.5% of it's weight in water - and that will not affect the shape or any physical property in any significant way.
It actually strengthens the plastic. A lot of molders put there parts in water before shipping.
I have printed several parts my my RC rock crawler with nylonX . It see some salt water and no issues. Iβve been running these parts since April/May
What is a is the recommended infill for printing when it comes to strength?
Typically you would keep your infill at 25% and increase the perimeter to add strength.
Is there any plans for different colors like yellows or oranges? I would buy if it wasn't just black.
That is a great question, the carbon fiber is such a dark color, the dye isn't visible.
That being said, we have NylonG available for for this reason.
How does NylonX compare to your polycarbonate filament in terms on overall strength and rigidity? Which filament would be better for RC car / quadcopter parts? Would NylonX work for gears or would one of your other nylon products be better suited?
NylonX is excellent for RC car/drone parts. It has higher tensile strength than PC, and is comparable in stiffness. The biggest benefit, though, is that it's significantly less dense - 1.0 g/cm3 vs. 1.22g/cm3) - so a NylonX part will be 22% lighter than an identical PC part.
For gears, I would look at our Pro Series Nylon or at Taulman's Alloy 910. The reason is that CF is abrasive, and NylonX gears will likely wear more than non-filled nylon.
Can I use this with a 1.75mm x 0.25mmhardened steel nozzle or is it too thin?
That will probably not work since it will clog your nozzle. Use at least a .4mm diameter hardened steel nozzle.
I've used a E3D 0.25mm nozzle for a lot of parts and I have never had any jamming or clogging while using NylonX. I print at 255c and 65c for the bed. 40mm/s
@TC Thank you for the feedback. You are about the only one that I have heard that has been successful at this diameter. Keep up the good work and share any tips you may have on the Printing with NylonX article page.
.25 was fine for me, even went with .15 and had only one or two jams in about 25 hrs of printing! Maybe one jam in 60+ hrs on .25. killer strength to weight gains here...
do I need an enclosure around the printer (like ABS) to print with this material? I plan on printing very large parts.
Using an enclosure for any material which has a high shrinkage rate (like Nylon or ABS) is considered best practices.
For the cost of a couple of bad prints you can solve this:
https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/printdry-filament-drying-system/sk/MNXQRWQC
Can I purchase a spool of NylonX, then print without baking in an oven and expect good results? Is everyone using an oven beforehand to pre-bake their spools? Or is this the recommended procedure after leaving NylonX out in a non-sealed environment for a while?
You could, but it would have bubbles and less than ideal results. A cheap dehydrator off Amazon and a large Tupper Ware bowl fitted as a lid with holes in the top is your best friend here...
Ideally, you would be able to print without drying, but even with the silica gel included in the vacuum-sealed bags, environme
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