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Behind the scenes at Mexico’s secret nudist town
The low-key resort of Zipolite in the state of Oaxaca on Mexico’s Pacific coast is home to Mexico’s first and only legal public nude beach.
Photo: Nicola Zolin
The largest of the three beach towns along the Pacific coast west of Puerto Ángel, Zipolite is known for its 1970s hippy vibe, surf culture and clothing-optional beach.
Photos: Nicola Zolin
Guillermo and Roberto, enjoying the sunset at the beach. ““I really like clothes, but I feel much better without them,” says Guillermo. “We came here because there’s no Covid,” adds Roberto. “It’s like dipping into another world.”
Photo: Nicola Zolin
Zipolite has become hugely popular with Canadians too, mostly thanks to the balmy Pacific climate, and the fact that they can get direct flights to Huatulco, an hour’s drive inland.
Photos: Nicola Zolin
Marylene (top), a 49-year-old first aid teacher from Quebec, has traveled to Zipolite every winter for the last 10 years to “disconnect from any kind of pressure.”
Photos: Nicola Zolin
For 31-year-old Skjalg and 28-year-old MacKenzie (bottom photo), Zipolite is hitting the spot. “We’re just gathering some sun vitamins before heading back to cold Norway, where we’re currently based, waiting to become full-time nomads,” says MacKenzie. “We feel lucky to be able to enjoy life in a period when many people are stressed out because of the pandemic.”
Photos: Nicola Zolin
But is there trouble in paradise, even in idyllic Zipolite?
Photo: Nicola Zolin
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You won’t find Zipolite on many Mexican tour group itineraries. That’s because this sleepy seaside town, an hour and a half from Puerto Escondido, is Mexico’s one and only legal nudist beach. Our (fully clothed) correspondent, Nicola Zolin, investigates.
An orange sun is sinking under the sea and behind the rocks of Zipolite as Guillermo stands up from his beach chair, naked, to take the last swim of the day.
“I really like clothes, but I feel much better without them,” he says, taking a deep breath and staring into the sunset.
Guillermo arrived on Zipolite a few days ago with his friend Roberto from Mexico City, where they both work and live. “We came here because there’s no Covid,” Roberto tells me. “It’s like dipping into another world.”
Located along the Pacific coast, in the state of Oaxaca, an hour and a half south of surfing paradise Puerto Escondido, Zipolite is one of Mexico’s most peculiar beaches. It’s the only strip of sand in the country where people can (legally) swim and walk around naked.
The origins of the town’s name are disputed, but most locals will tell you Zipolite means ‘Beach of Death’ in the indigenous Zapotec language. There’s good reason for the ominous nickname.
Cesar, who runs dolphin- and whale-watching charters off the coast, tells me that every year he witnesses people drowning. “The currents and waves here are sometimes so strong that people panic and never re-emerge from water,” he says.
In fact, Zipolite is considered one of the 10 deadliest beaches in the world. Despite this grim statistic, tourism has been steadily growing over the last three decades, as the town evolves into an offbeat vacation spot. Guest houses, cafés, hotels and restaurants of every kind have mushroomed.
Local people like Roberto, who manages a small hotel facing the sea, have seen Zipolite change radically during their lifetime. When he was a child, he was scared to walk around at night, as the town consisted mostly of big cacti, birds, iguanas and turtles. It was a wild place.
“It used to be a desert, with a virgin beach and just five cabanas,” he says. “In the 1970s, people started to come and chill at the beach, playing music and swimming naked. They were hippies. Police were telling them to dress up, but then they’d just get naked again. Local people were disturbed in the beginning, but soon they understood that even nudism could be a business.”
“No-one watches TV, no-one talks about the news, no-one talks about Covid every two minutes. That’s such a relief.”
I’m chatting to Roberto in the dying light outside his posada, near the beach. He’s telling me about the cultural shift of Zipolite—how outsiders came, discovered the nudity and the low-key vibe, then settled down and never left.
“You see me sitting here, but in fact I’m working!” he laughs. “Clients come every day looking for a room, especially during the nudist festival. That’s when people are just walking naked everywhere. Some locals find it shocking, but others are making good money off it, so they don’t care.”
You can look at this cultural shift in two ways, I suppose. It’s either a small Mexican town gradually losing its identity to foreign investment, or a plucky story of coastal capitalism. For the locals’ part, they’re just happy to see money flowing into Zipolite again.
“When I was a child, we were asking ourselves what we could do in this small village with no opportunities,” Roberto says. “Now even a federal government deputy has come here to invest. His new resort is called Naked. Places like this are now profiting enormously from gay tourism, which brings in much more revenue than penniless backpackers.”
LGBTQ+ tourism has grown a lot over the last decade, particularly in bohemian, free-love towns like Zipolite.
“There’s a lot of machismo in Mexico,” Guillermo tells me, “but in Mexico City and along the Oaxacan coast, the culture has been changing a lot in recent years. In Zipolite, people are free to basically do anything they want. This beach has become one of the safest places in Mexico for gay people.”
“We came here because there is no Covid!” Roberto told me on the beach. In fact, the virus was already everywhere. People just didn’t want to think about it.
The combination of sun, pristine Pacific beach, rampant nudism, LGBTQ+-friendliness and a packed events calendar makes Zipolite an attractive destination for diverse travelers. Marylene, a 49-year-old first aid teacher from Quebec, has traveled here every winter for the last 10 years to “disconnect from any kind of pressure.”
“Here I can do a lot of sport. I can swim naked and take my time for reading,” she tells me, while sitting on her hotel terrace. “No-one watches TV, no-one talks about the news, no-one talks about Covid every two minutes. That’s such a relief.”
Zipolite has become hugely popular with Canadians, like Marylene, mostly thanks to the balmy Pacific climate, and the fact that they can get direct flights to Huatulco, an hour’s drive inland.
“Having a sea view instead of a computer screen is the way to go! But this is still Mexico,” Marylene continues. “Last year, a man was murdered for selling drugs, right here in the main tourist street. In 2010, a man entered a bar, told everyone to leave, shot the bartender through the head, then left in his own car. Still, I’ve never heard of any gringo (foreigner) getting into trouble,” she adds.
Zipolite is still a sleepy town, by Mexican tourism standards. Most travelers don’t expect to run into problems here, despite the widespread knowledge that drug cartels control the coast of Oaxaca. Backpackers traveling through Mexico usually find out about Zipolite through other travelers, via word of mouth, often in nearby beach towns like Mazunte or Puerto Escondido. This is what happened to Skjalg (31) and MacKenzie (28).
“We’re just gathering some sun vitamins before heading back to cold Norway, where we’re currently based, waiting to become full-time nomads,” MacKenzie, a US-born citizen, tells me. She met her boyfriend Skjalg in Nepal some years ago, while volunteering for the NGO, Conscious Impact. “We feel lucky to be able to enjoy life in a period when many people are stressed out because of the pandemic.”
Skjalg and MacKenzie are just passing through, but other travelers get stuck for years after reaching Zipolite.
The town has a weird magnetic pull that’s hard to shake off. Marco, from Bergamo, Italy, fell in love with the beach 10 years ago. Since then, he’s only returned home once, to see his family and friends. “I got really scared when I went back home, some years ago. My friends are working at crazy rhythms. I looked around and felt that no-one was happy,” he tells me.
Marco makes a living selling jewelery and other trinkets to passing tourists in the main street of the town. “In Italy, I would have the same job,” he says. “The only difference is that I would be much more stressed, especially with all the restrictions that people are facing right now. In Mexico, they don’t even require a test to enter the airport!”
The general feeling in Zipolite is that COVID-19 doesn’t exist, figuratively speaking. Many people seem to be coming here to escape the pressures and restrictions of everyday life, and almost no-one wears a mask (or anything else, to be frank).
It’s just a feeling, however. At the beach, I started talking with a couple who preferred not to speak with me, saying they’d recently tested positive. At my hotel, the staff suddenly began wearing masks and handing out sanitizer to all the guests. A few days later, in February, all the local events were sadly canceled, including the nudist festival, which attracts hundreds of tourists every year.
“We came here because there is no Covid!’ Roberto told me on the beach. In fact, the virus was already everywhere. People just didn’t want to think about it. They wanted to keep partying, swimming, and enjoying the craziest beach in Mexico. After all, no-one wants trouble in paradise.
Nicola Zolin is a photojournalist and writer, interested in the social and environmental transformations at the borders of Europe, Middle East and Asia. His stories deal with the idea of freedom and liberation from society's structures.
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August 7, 2021, 2:00 PM · 6 min read
Swingers attend a daytime pool party where no clothes are required. Courtesy of Melissa Vitale
Waves crash on the beach in Cap d'Agde, a seaside naturist village on France's Mediterranean coast. Courtesy of Melissa Vitale
Two guests drink wine while enjoying the beachfront view at the resort. Courtesy of Melissa Vitale
A woman stands naked on a patio overlooking a nudist beach in France. Courtesy of Melissa Vitale
During the day, guests can lounge around the pool at Babylon. Courtesy of Melissa Vitale
Empty pink lounge beds surround the outdoor pool. Guests can have sex on the beds at any time of day. Courtesy of Melissa Vitale
A small bowl of condoms sits on an outdoor bed. Behind the bed hang chains and handcuffs for BDSM activities. Courtesy of Melissa Vitale
A flamingo pool float sits in an empty jacuzzi next to a sign that reads "no sex in jacuzzi." Courtesy of Melissa Vitale
Swingers attend a daytime pool party where no clothes are required. Courtesy of Melissa Vitale
Black handcuffs hang from the wall outside of the resort. Courtesy of Melissa Vitale
Signage on the beach warns visitors that any public sex acts will result in a 15,000 euro fine. Courtesy of Melissa Vitale
Men gather around for a masturbation circle on a private beach where sex is allowed. Courtesy of Melissa Vitale
A naked woman walks through a grocery store aisle while pulling a cart behind her. Courtesy of Melissa Vitale
A VIP booth at a nightclub in Jardin d'Eden, a beach resort on France's coast. Courtesy of Melissa Vitale
BDSM tools in a red room where resort guests can have sex with each other during planned parties. Courtesy of Melissa Vitale
A large group shower remains empty during the day, but comes alive at night. Courtesy of Melissa Vitale
The sun sets over the water on the beach in Cap d'Agde, a seaside resort on France's Mediterranean coast. Courtesy of Melissa Vitale
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Claudia and Pepe Aguirre are husband and wife and the founders of a luxury vacation business for swingers.
They recently hosted 65 swinger couples at resort in Cap d'Agde, France, a nudist village.
Take a tour of the resort when swingers took it over for a steamy hot vax summer getaway.
In mid-July, 130 swingers, romantic couples who consensually swap partners for sex, descended upon a French naturist village for the hot post-vaccine summer of their dreams.
Claudia and Pepe Aguirre, a swinger husband-wife duo and founders of Luxury Lifestyle Vacations (LLV), organized the annual trip for the tenth year in a row.
They told Insider this year's getaway was more sexually charged than ever before, despite fewer people in attendance due to the pandemic.
"You would think it would be tampered down by COVID but quite the opposite. There are a lot of folks there in their 60s and 70s and they know they don't have many years left with their partners. You could literally see the sexual liberation in the air," Melissa Vitale, a publicist for Luxury Lifestyle Vacations who attended the trip, told Insider.
Since most of the Aguirres' swinger clientele come from the United States, they take extra care to acclimate them to the more open sexual environment Europe offers. After giving guests a tour of the resort's amenities, they set them free for a week of sex, pool parties, fine dining, naked sunbathing, and clubbing.
Take a look inside the stripped-down experience:
Cap d'Agde is a naturist village that sits on France's Mediterranean coast, an hour south of Montpellier where the nearest airport is stationed.
The village is home to an estimated 25,000 permanent residents, plus a seaside resort called Jardin d'Eden. The village hosts thousands of out-of-town swingers every year.
When guests arrive at Jardin d'Eden for a Luxury Lifestyle Vacation getaway, Claudia and Pepe Aguirre greet them in a branded golf cart.
To get the VIP treatment from the Aguirres, you have to book the trip through their website.
There's still plenty of opportunities to mingle with other resort guests and beachgoers, they told Insider.
Jardin d'Eden looks out over the beach, where naked adults, teens, and children soak up the sun.
Shirts, pants, and skirts are optional at the resort and throughout the entire village. The most 'covered up' guests will throw a scarf or towel over their shoulder, said Pepe.
At the pool, guests can lounge around, swim, and mingle with other swingers. It's located at a neighboring club, called Glamour Beach.
Hot pink lounge beds allow guests to have sex anywhere, any time.
According to Vitale, swingers had sex on every surface imaginable in broad daylight.
Each bed was outfitted with condoms and handcuffs.
For a more intimate poolside experience, guests could hop into the jacuzzi - so long as they abstained from sex.
According to Vitale, the trip provided more than sexual intimacy.
"I call it an adult summer camp because we exchanged friendship," Vitale, who was new to the group, told Insider.
"We laughed together. We cried together. When one of the members [of the trip] said they weren't having a great mental health day, we just had a little heart to heart about that."
Nearby resort Jardin de Babylone transforms into a party when nude swingers overtake the space to drink, dance, and touch.
Before the pandemic, Jardin d'Eden was known for its foam parties, where staffers shoot mousse into the air and onto guests.
This year, the resort went foam-free for safety reasons, said Vitale.
Around every corner, there's a chance to get kinky with a new friend or perfect stranger. Exhibit A: These wall-mounted handcuffs.
All of the beaches except one prohibit it sexual activity on the sand. If caught, the nudist in question must pay a €150,000 fine.
But one nude beach, called the dunes, allows public sex. It's common to see men start a masturbation circle around a single woman or couple having sex, said Vitale.
"If you're a single woman who lays on the beach you'll have a circle of guys masturbating around you in minutes," she said, adding that men pleasured themselves there — with consent of those around them — during a thunderstorm.
"Even severe weather won't stop them," Vitale said.
Nudity is allowed anywhere in the village, even off resort property. Guests enjoyed shopping naked for charcuterie as a pre-nightlife treat, said Pepe.
At night, guests put on their fanciest outfits and head to one of the resort's clubs, which are organized by kink. One is for swingers, while another is for BDSM.
Claudia and Pepe hosted themed nights for their clients, including a "lace and leather" theme and a neon night.
Every couple would dress in their best outfits and head to the clubs, which required high heels and vaccination cards.
Guests wasted no time breaking in the gear in the BDSM room.
A group shower with red mood lighting also welcomed horny guests.
After 7 days of indulgence, guests head home. But the fun isn't over forever. According to Pepe, 70% of LLV guests return for another trip.
In fact, one married couple of 53 years has celebrated more of their anniversaries with LLV swingers' getaways than with their extended family.
"It really is such a community and family, that you know, f---s each other sometimes," said Pepe.
Read the original article on Insider
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