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Backpacking Nepal Travel Guide (BUDGET TIPS • 2021)
By Will Hatton Last Updated February 7, 2021 /
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Backpacking Nepal Travel Guide (BUDGET TIPS • 2021)
Fascinated by the mysterious country that serves as a gateway to Mount Everest? I was too.
Lured here by the promise of raw adventure, towering Himalayan peaks, rare wildlife and ancient culture, I spent a couple of months backpacking Nepal. I hitchhiked in some of the world’s most pimped out lorries, ate and drank the local delicacies, went rafting in the wilderness, and explored the Annapurna Circuit.
My experience in Nepal simply blew me away. Backpacker bargains are everywhere and the locals are keen to ensure you have a good time. The landscapes are simply some of the most striking in the world, and if you make the effort to get off the beaten track, backpacking Nepal is a one of a kind adventure.
My research for the trip consisted of binge-watching Planet Earth and reading tales of adventurers trekking Nepal. This guide is meant to give you much more information than I had!
Nepal is opening its doors to backpackers, and for many nationalities, it is extremely easy to get a visa on arrival. As one of the cheapest countries to travel in the world, there’s no excuse not to go!
Nepal was one of the greatest adventures I’ve had in nine years travelling the world. And so, amigos, fasten your seatbelts and check out the Broke Backpacker Guide to backpacking Nepal on a budget!
The prayer flags and amazing views of the Annapurna Circuit. | Photo: Ana Pereira
For such a small country, there is so much to do and see in Nepal, especially if you are trekking!
Generally, backpackers stick to these regions: Pokhara and the nearby Annapurna Region, and Kathmandu, Kathmandu Valley, and the Everest Region. You can also trek the Langtang Region for a minimal permit fee.
Mustang and Menalu require hefty permit fees (hundreds of dollars) but are supposed to be incredible. Many backpackers also make the trip to Chitwan National Park to see rhinos and elephants.
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Best Travel Itineraries for Backpacking Nepal
Below I have mapped out a few itineraries for backpacking Nepal: two focus on the Kathmandu region and the other focuses on Annapurna and Pokhara. I have also mapped out which treks work best for each respective itinerary.
If you only have 2 weeks in Nepal, but still want to hike in the Himalayas, I highly suggest trekking in the Langtang region, a rewarding trail with minimal crowds and epic views. Plus, it only takes 7 days. You can then add on the rest of this itinerary, though it will be a bit rushed.
If you are flying into Nepal, you will more than likely start your trip by staying in Kathmandu. As a city, Kathmandu gets mixed reviews. It is dusty, polluted, and a bit hectic, but in my opinion, it’s nothing compared to cities in neighboring India. There is still plenty to do and see in Kathmandu, and it’s a good place to get ready for a trek in the Everest of Langtang Region.
From Kathmandu, you can visit several beautiful towns in the Kathmandu Valley. I’m talking beautiful temples and delicious food all day every day!
I recommend checking out Bhaktapur and Patan just outside the city. Bandipur and Gorka are two more great towns to visit not too far out. Kathmandu and the valley can easily keep you busy for a week or more, especially if you are interested in Nepal’s history. While this area was heavily affected by the 2015 earthquake, you can still get a good sense of how incredible the squares and temples were (and, in many ways, still are).
You will most likely land in Kathmandu. Spend a couple days here exploring the city, and getting ready for your trek(s). The flags on the map represent the two treks mentioned below.
If you have 3 weeks or more in Nepal, you can hike the Everest Base Camp Trek or Gokyo Ri Trek. Both take a minimum of 14 days to complete.
More experienced and fit trekkers may want to allocate 3+ weeks and attempt the epic Three Pass Trek, which (as the name suggests) leads you over 3 passes over 5,000 meters, including Everest Base Camp. Due to the elevation gain and strenuous climbs, this hike is not for the faint-hearted.
Once you’re back, you’re going to want a few days of chilling. I suggest doing this in Kathmandu, which may not be chill, but sure is convenient. From there, you can explore the valley and all the awesome things to see in Kathmandu, essentially tacking on the first itinerary above.
The map above is meant to give you a rough idea of the Annapurna Circuit (as marked by the flags), Pokhara, Lumbini, and Chitwan National Park.
Pokhara attracts backpackers, hippies, and the crustiest of solo travellers from all over the world, as well as most of Nepal’s trekkers, who are with getting ready or coming back from the Annapurna region. Most people end up staying in Pokhara for at least a week here before/after trekking in the Annapurna Region.
There are plenty of cafes and restaurants to keep you busy, unlimited amounts of good smoke, and even a very, very Nepali take on Disneyland. There are a few mean day trips in the area worth taking too.
If you are trekking in the Annapurna Region, I highly suggest the Annapurna Circuit. Catch a bus to Besisahar and just start walking! The hike takes a minimum of 14 days if you are just catching a bus from the Jomson area, as many hikers do. If you hike the entire circuit, it will take up to 22 days.
Many people add the Poon Hill trek to the end of the Annapurna Circuit, but Poon Hill can be hiked as a 3-day hike from Pokhara too.
Another popular alternative is the Annapurna Base Camp, which takes 7-10 days. Most people complete it in 9. This hike requires scaling a lot of stairs, but it takes you into the Annapurna Mountain amphitheatre; whereas, the circuit takes you around the range.
If you have 3+ weeks to trek and you’re a badass, it’s possible to add the base camp hike to the end of the Annapurna Circuit. You can always decide this at the end since your TIMS permit covers both trails – though tell the officials you plan to do both so they write it down.
After your trek, you’re going to want to chill in Pokhara for a few days. Once you’re rested, you can catch a bus south to Lumbini, which has extreme significance for Buddhists as this is where Buddha was born.
Next, catch a bus to Chitwan National Park; you can take a tour in a jeep or a walking tour! You can expect to see rhinos, elephants, and possibly even tigers in the park.
HOWEVER, it is important to remember that not tourism services in Nepal have a glowing reputation for their environmental or wildlife practices. It’s important to be extremely careful when choosing to engage with animal tourism as a traveller.
From Chitwan, you can get to the border to cross into India (usually at Sonauli though you have numerous options), or you can return to Kathmandu to catch a flight out of Nepal.
Foot bridge in Nepal. Spoiler Alert: There are thousands! | Photo: Ana Pereira
Most visitors start their travels in Nepal by backpacking through Kathmandu. While not nearly as mental as the streets of Delhi or other major cities in India, Kathmandu can be pretty overwhelming. Get ready for the organised chaos and sensory overload!
There is so much to see, smell, eat and marvel at it’s hard to know where to start. I recommend spending at least 3 days in Kathmandu to get over the jet lag and explore!
Head to Thamel, Kathmandu’s backpacker neighbourhood. Here you will find an array of bars, shops, restaurants, hippy jazz, and most of Kathmandu’s top hostels.
Hell, if your haggle game is on-point, try booking into Shangrila Boutique Hotel. You can get a double room and breakfast for a pretty cheap price!
The architecture of one of Kathmandu’s ancient neighbourhoods.
UNESCO-protected Durbar Square is a popular place to see when visiting Nepal. It’s a square filled with the history of rulers and royalty. (‘Durbar’ literally means palace.)
Many of the buildings around the square are actually older than the square itself; Kasthamandap is the oldest building in the valley, at three stories and made out of wood, it’s a beautiful ancient sight to awe at. You can easily spend a day wandering the streets, exploring the temples, people watching and enjoying a refreshing beer on one of the rooftop cafes.
Don’t leave Kathmandu without spending some time at the Hanuman Dhoka. Nepal’s Royal Palace has some incredible history having been founded in the 4th to 8th centuries AD and then further expanded to what it is now. You can spend a day exploring the sprawling palace and it’s 10 courtyards.
Plus, it is free to enter if you have a ticket to visit Durbar Square! Sadly, the palace felt the effects of the 2015 Earthquake and some areas are undergoing repairs. Don’t let this stop you from visiting though; most of the palace is now accessible and restored to its previous beauty.
Stop by Swayambhunath, one of Nepal’s most incredible temples. Mobbed by monkeys, Swayambhunath is often referred to as ‘The Monkey Temple’. Make friends with the locals as you explore this sprawling ancient and chaotic mixture of Buddhism and Hinduism. Perched on a hill overlooking the city, on a non-hazy day it boasts one of the best views over Kathmandu City.
Bhaktapur was once described as the best-preserved medieval state in Kathmandu. This beautiful place was devastated by the 2015 earthquake and many buildings were destroyed.
That said, this is still one of my favourite cultural places in Nepal. Pick your way through the damage and you’ll find beautiful medieval streets, incredible hand-carved temples, and artisans making cloth chiselled wood and pottery.
The sites of ancient Bhaktapur. | Photo: Ana Pereira
Stop and chat with the local craftsman and try your hand at making some traditional pottery or chiselled wood. You’ll need to bring your passport with you to enter this ancient state and pay a $15 fee, which goes towards the upkeep.
Many people visit Bhaktapur as a day trip from Kathmandu, but in my opinion it’s worth staying here a couple days to soak it in. This really is an incredible city!
For many travellers, this is the start of their Nepal trekking adventure and the gateway to the mighty Mt Everest and the Himalayas. The thrill starts on the plane ride in; Lukla is said to have ‘one of the most dangerous airports in the world’. I would say it’s one of the most thrilling and beautiful plane rides you’ll ever experience!
Hiking views in Everest region…. wow
At 2680 metres above sea level, there is not much for backpackers in Lukla unless you are planning to trek the Himalayas or to Everest Base Camp. For those trekking, Lukla is a great place to pick up last-minute essentials, hire a guide, adjust to the altitude and plan the next stages of your trip. There’s also very limited backpacker accommodation available.
For a place to crash, check out La Villa Sherpani. it is one of the cheaper options available but again, worth booking in advance as it’s often full.
Welcome to a glimpse into the past. Here, time almost seems as though it has stood still. Bandipur offers a beautiful insight into what Nepal once was.
Possibly one of the most welcoming places i’ve visited…Bandipur
Explore the old streets on foot; there are no cars here giving the old streets a European feel. Tourism has saved many of the derelict Newari houses and buildings many of which are now cafes and lodges offering some of the best Chai in Nepal.
There are some local guesthouses that put up backpackers. The Bandipur Samira Homestay is one of the most popular.
Put on the map by backpackers travelling Nepal off the beaten track and other tourists on pilgrimage, Gorkha is an extremely religious small town. Newar’s here on Pilgrim often believe the Shahs living here are reincarnations of the God Vishnu.
The Gorkha Durbar with supreme bathroom window panoramas.
Visit the Gorkha Durbar which used to be a palace for the Shahs and is now a popular historical site with views of the village.
Pssssst! Not picked the perfect travel backpack yet? The Broke Backpacker team has tried out over thirty backpacks this year! Our favourite travel backpack is the Aer Travel Pack 2.
Scaling the world’s highest mountain is the dream of many mountaineers. The reality is that climbing Everest is an extremely challenging and expensive endeavour – the permit alone costs $11,000!
Even amongst the Giants, there must be a king.
Trekking the Himalayas to Everest Base Camp is a popular backpacker route, which is a lot more affordable and doesn’t require technical experience. However, the Everest Base Camp trek is crowded and busy.
I recommend finding something a bit quieter during high season (October, November, and April) because large tracts of the Everest Base Camp trek have been trashed. (Skip ahead to the Trekking in Nepal section below to get the scoop!)
Don’t fancy hiking? Treat yourself and blow your broke backpacker budget on an unforgettable helicopter tour of Mt Everest! It’s a knuckle-whitening experience which will leave you grinning like an idiot for days…
Often described as ‘Goa in the Mountains’, it is easy to fall in love with this small town surrounded by mountainous scenery. Escape the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu and take some downtime to chill out and relax before venturing into the mountains. I would recommend spending around 4 days exploring Pokhara.
Most Nepal trekking adventures start here; Pokhara is the gateway to the incredible Annapurna Circuit Trek. At the local bars, you’ll bump into plenty of backpackers finishing or starting the trek. Check out the Silk Road and the Busy Bee for good company, good food, and cheap beer.
Pokhara Lake a great place to relax! | source: Ana Pereira
There’s more to visiting Pokhara than just the initial chilled-out vibe; it also caters to those looking for adrenaline-packed adventures. Arguably, it’s one of the most beautiful places in the world to jump off a mountain and sail through the air – paragliding is hugely popular here.
For those needing more adrenaline, Pokhara is surrounded by some beautiful white water rivers so grab your kayak! After all the adventure, grab some beers, your camera, and head to the lake to catch the sunset, it’s a perfect way to end the day.
One of my favourite past times in Pokhara was catching one of the nightly movies at the Movie Garden, which had a wonderful atmosphere and projector screen under the stars. Or at the restaurant Blind Tiger, which offered free movies while you eat!
Another great excursion you can set up in Pokhara is a rafting expedition. You can book anything from a half-day to two weeks! There are plenty of tourist shops in town, so bring your haggle game. The best time for white-water rafting and kayaking is after the monsoon season in September and October.
Lumbini is the birthplace of histories most loved and respected figures. This is where Siddhartha Gautama (Buddha) was born. It’s unsurprising to learn that this beautiful town attracts those on pilgrim from all over the world. The town is also protected by UNESCO and was one of the most humbling places I visited on my travels to Nepal.
Check into the Siddhartha Guest House and spend at least one night here exploring the fascinating town and making the overnight bus worthwhile. If your haggle game is strong, you can expect to pay around 250 Rupees per night! If that’s full, check into Ananda Inn where you can get a room for $25.
The birthplace of the B-Man himself.
The highlight of Lumbini is definitely the beautiful Maya Devi Temple. Learn about the birth and rise of ‘The Buddha’ while marvelling at the beautiful architecture and carvings surrounding the temple.
Arguably one of the world’s most successful protection sites for rhinos, Chitwan National Park is a wildlife lovers paradise. Granted World Heritage Protection in the 1980s Chitwan is home to tigers, rhinos, birds, elephants, and many more incredible animals.
Often, it is a bit too pricey to stay in the luxury lodges around the national park, so most backpackers head to the small town of Sauraha close by and check into the Chilax House – a private double room is $3 a night.
Spend at least two full days exploring Chitwan National Park. If you are an animal lover like me, you’ll be here a lot longer. Trek through the bush in search for some of the rare and protected wildlife or hop in a dug-out canoe and get up close and personal with alligators and the local bird life.
Chitwan is an experience you will not regret whilst backpacking Nepal. Elephant tourism is popular here in Chitwan and whilst some sanctuaries care for the elephants well, do your research before booking experiences with elephants. Not all of them are so upstanding.
And if you are engaging with the elephant tourism, seriously, do not ride on them.
Often described as Chitwan 30 years ago before a high influx of tourism, Bardia is very dedicated to the protection and conservation of the wildlife in Nepal. The park itself protects 968 square kilometres of forest and grassland as well making up one of the largest stretches of tiger habitats in all of Asia.
| Photo: Salvacampillo (Shutterstock)
It’s a long journey here but totally worth it to have a more chilled out, off the beaten track, wildlife experience when compared to Chitwan.
It’s not hard to get off the beaten track in Nepal – not even a little bit. There is still sooo much untracked ground and so many villages that simply never see tourists.
The truth about Nepal’s monster hits – the Annapurna Range, Everest Base Camp, and many of the other treks requiring special permits – is that it’s all kinda touristic these days. The last decade has seen Nepal shoot up as an accessible adventure travel destination resulting in a boom for its tourism industry.
While they all are phenomenal trekking adventures, none are as strictly ‘into the unknown’ as they used to be. These days, even summitting Mount Everest is more a mark of how much disposable income you have rather than your actual prowess as a mountaineer.
But that’s the tourist mumbo-jumbo. What about the real Nepal?
The women of Nepal are serious BAMFs..
Man, west Nepal is fucking crazy. It’s easily as maddening as some of the most remote areas of India (in the best way possible).
The same can be said of areas in the east of Nepal. Once you get outside of the central belt spanning from Pokhara and the Annapurna Range over to Everest in the east, things become a lot more rural and inaccessible.
If you want to travel off the beaten track in Nepal, stay away from the major and expensive treks. Look for off-beat natural wonders that get overlooked (understandably so) in exchange for the majesty of the Himalayas. Even the journey there will be one to remember – crossing through rural Nepal is often as much of an adventure as any 16-day trek.
Need a jumping off point? I know of an ancient and pristine lake in the west of Nepal. It’s called Rara: go find it.
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