Naudia strokes big hard shaft
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Naudia strokes big hard shaft
Mercury four-stroke outboard engines are designed and built innovatively to ensure high-quality performances as well.
Besides being such an amazingly reliable outboard motors, they still have some common troubleshooting issues that most users encounter.
In this very article, I will reveal possible reasons behind each of those common issues and suggest some useful quick-fixing techniques.
The first common troubleshooting issue that most users complain about is when the mercury four-stroke motor suddenly fails to start like usual.
In some cases, the engine may crank slowly but still fails to start over. Some users have also claimed that sometimes the motor starts after several tries but quickly starts to stall.
However, to fix the problem, you need to find out the core reason behind this arisen commotion.
If you encounter similar commotion with your mercury 4 stroke motor, verify the core issue with the following possible reasons.
Empty gas tank or dirty, low-quality fuel can cause it…
There can be various reasons behind this, but the first and foremost task is to check your gas tank.
If the fuel level is low or you have a dirty fuel mixture, change and refill the gas tank with the correct fuel mixture. For fuel mixture’s correct ratio, take help from your outboard service manual.
Remember old gasoline gradually harms your engine, so you need to check the fuel level and condition frequently. Also, if you are using ethanol gasoline, do not use fresh refilled gas for more than 30 days in a row.
Another possible reason can be the gas tank’s air vent condition…
Check your gas tank whether the gas tank vent is open or closed. If you see the vent is closed that the main culprit you need to deal with first.
A closed gas tank vent prevents the air from replacing fuel when the motor pulls it out, and as a result, a lack of firing up causes the engine to fail.
Besides checking the gas tank vent also, inspect whether the engine is primed and choked properly. Remember to check whether the fuel shutoff valve is turned on or off.
A clogged fuel filter or leakage on the fuel line can also cause such trouble…
First, you need to disconnect all the connections and remove the fuel filter from the fuel lines.
If you see debris inside the filter or fuel lines, clean them by spraying solvent cleaner. Next, wait for some time so that the filter or lines get properly dried and re-insert it accurately.
Remember, if the damage is severe, you will need to replace the filters or fuel lines. Also, check the hoses for any possible leaks and replace the parts, if needed.
Either for damaged battery or a faulty kill switch…
If your mercury 4 stroke is the pull-start outboard motor, you should also inspect the battery whether it is damaged or not charged. Make sure the battery is clean and all the connections are on point. Remember to charge the battery is fully.
Next, you need to inspect the kill switch connection, and if it is not connected securely, undo the connection and re-install it properly.
If the kill switch looks damaged, replace it and put the gear on neutral before starting the engine.
Another commonly mentioned problem with mercury 4 stroke outboard or boat engines is frequent stalling, sudden loss of power, and excessive noises.
Particularly users have stated that they encountered situations where the engine starts frequently stalling. Sometimes they notice significant power loss and unusual excess vibrating sound coming from the engine too.
Some users specifically mentioned that it happens when the motor is warm up enough and turns on the idle gear to start.
Therefore, let’s find out what may cause those types of trouble and how to get rid of them.
These problems can arise because of one or more following reasons so, make sure you are investigating all possible faults thoroughly.
A damaged, loose, or fouled propeller can cause the problem…
Whenever you encounter these similar issues with your mercury 4 stroke, instantly turn off the engine and disconnect all the connectors to pull your propeller out.
Now, check whether something like excessive seaweed or other debris tangled around the propeller or not.
If you find any tangled materials that can enter the blades to damage them, carefully remove them. Next, clean the entire propeller to remove all the existing debris.
Also, check the propeller blades if those are not free from breaks, your propeller needs to be replaced.
The damaged or broken shear pin can also lead the engine to lose power and make excessive vibration or rattling noises.
The shear pin is responsible for directing the propeller to spin with an accurate angle and direction.
But because of the broken or damaged shear pin, the propeller fails to spin and causes the engine to lose power and make unnecessary noises. In that case, you need to replace the shear pin.
Worn-out or damaged spark plugs can be another possible reason…
First, you need to check the ignition spark with a spark tester. If the spark is good, make sure the air gap in between is according to the needed specification.
In case you cannot find the spark, there are two easy ways to deal with spark plugs. One is if those are dirty because of the excess debris, carefully disconnect and remove them. Then, neatly clean and dry off to put them back in place. Another way is if one or all spark plugs are damaged, replace them.
Another most common issue that often mercury four stroke users complain about is the engine or motor overheating problem.
When the outboard motor gets overheated, it abruptly shuts off and won’t start again, which is natural because it needs to cool down first and after that, if you will try, it will re-start.
Now I will try to explain some most obvious reasons behind this particular problem.
So, let’s learn and explore together.
Any leakage in the cooling system can cause overheating trouble…
It is one of the core reasons for outboard motor overheating so, the first and foremost task is to check your cooling system for any possible leak.
First, check on the radiator, hoses, gasket head, or thermostat housing. If you find any external leak, the temporary solution is using the mercury hose repair kits or sealers instantly.
Remember to carry extra hoses, hose clamps, and kits for emergency repairing tasks.
However, those are temporary quick solutions, but a better way is to use the permanent solution. The permanent repairing option for you is to replace each leaked part, if possible. This replacement will require a professional assistant so, hire a professional mechanic or contact your mercury outboard dealer.
Another reason can be damaged or worn-out water pump impeller…
Therefore, check the water pump impeller whether it is broken or miss any vane. Thoroughly inspect if there any displaced pieces which are causing the trouble. If so, you need to remove and fix them accurately in place.
Next, you need to check whether the water passages are clogged with debris or other harmful materials. That clogged passage will prevent the flow to run smoothly so, flush it with clean water and professional cleaner.
After reviewing several consumer’s feedback, there is no doubt that most of the users are more than satisfied with their outboard experiences because of the classic performance and reliability.
However, some users have mentioned their disappointments because of the mentioned troubleshooting issues with the mercury 4 stroke outboard motors.
But the good news is, all the common problems that may arise with the mercury product line are easy to fix, and mercury also ensures the highest after-sale service through its wide range of dealers.
Besides all the common problems with the mercury four-stroke outboard motors, it is undeniable that Mercury Marine is one of the industry leaders for its innovative and technologically advanced outboard motors.
Therefore, you cannot outlook the exceptional power and speed each mercury outboard or boat motors offer.
Empty gas tank or dirty, low-quality fuelClosed gas tank air ventClogged fuel filter or fuel line leakageDamaged batteryFaulty kill switch
Engine May Stalls, Loss Power or Make Excessive Vibration
Damaged, loose, or fouled propellerDamaged or broken shear pinWorn-out or damaged spark plugs
Leakage in the cooling systemleakage in the cooling system
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This here is our 408ci Stroker 351W that we just built for our Project 666 Mustang. We're going to show you how to build your own.
One of the highlights of any Ford engine builder’s life is the moment they build their first 351-Windsor. There is a lot to consider when selecting the parts that will fit your wallet and desires. But what parts should you spend more of your money on? Follow along with Dr. Wrench, Dale Metlika of Pro Power, while he guides you through his forte that is designing racing engines.
The guys here at PowerTV have provided me with this forum to inform and educate you through my experiences, presented to you here under my digital author title of “Dr. Wrench.”
I’ve spent over 25 years working in the racing and performance industries, and have extensive experience working with internal engine parts for both street and racing. I was the Event Director for the 1st World Ford Challenge and later for the first two years of the NMRA. I have also worked with the big auto manufacturers and heads-up racers. I will be sharing my knowledge right here with you guys, so read on and look for more great stories in the near future.
And now to the subject at hand: Stroker Windsors!
You already know that big cubes mean big horsepower and big torque. You’ve had your eye on a huge 351 Windsor engine for some time now, and dreams of the extra cubic inches have you itching to feel the power in your Ford project. But, before you just jump right in and slap any old stroker Windsor in between the frame rails, there are probably a million questions you could ask.
If you have been running the standard 302 combination, there are quite a few things to learn about both Windsor engines and stroker Windsors. Even though Windsors are related to Ford 289 / 302 small blocks, the 351 Windsor engine is different in many ways. The affordability and availability of large displacement Windsors means that a standard old 351 has gone by the wayside. I have compiled a top ten list of tips to help you with your first stroker Windsor package.
The base of any good stroker monster combo is the engine block and there are many options to choose from. Blocks are available in a wide variety of configurations, so make sure you choose the correct block for your application.
Many of the OEM Ford Windsor blocks are not set up to use OEM style hydraulic roller lifters. If you want to use hydraulic roller lifters, you will need special cams and/or link bar style lifters. OEM blocks are typically only good up to limited horsepower levels and should only be used when staying naturally aspirated.
Additionally, the main webbing and cylinder walls are typically thinner than a big power package can handle.
OEM blocks come in two deck heights: 9.480” and 9.500”. The shorter blocks were standard for ’69 and ’70, and the ’71 and later blocks measuring an extra .020” higher. This is an important specification when choosing your rotating parts so you don’t end up with pistons sticking out of the top of the deck.
For Higher Power You Need A High Performance Blocks
If you are planning on making tons of power and torque, your best option would be a good aftermarket block.
Ford Racing , World Products , and Dart all offer great blocks for anything from street machines to 2500 horsepower race cars.
Aftermarket blocks primarily come with the later style 9.500” deck height and have the meatier main webbing and casting thicknesses that are needed more powerful engines. These blocks are also available with a much larger bore capability, which allows for more cubic inches with the same stroke. Larger bores permit greater air flow that is needed with additional displacement.
If you are going to make some serious power you will need to get a nice beefy block like this fine Man-O-War cast iron piece from World Products . (photo courtesy of World Products )
Tip 2: Pick a Stroker for Your Specific Needs
Deciding on a combination of stroke and bore can be very confusing when trying to purchase a stroker Windsor combination. A large selection of strokes is available and choosing the right one will depend on how the engine will be used.
This may seem simple…just get the biggest stroke, right? Wrong. Do you plan on revving the engine up to the moon? Do you want a street torque monster? Will you be running a 500 horsepower fogger nitrous kit? You have to know what your ultimate goal is for this engine project so you can choose the appropriate stroke and cubic inch displacement.
For lower RPM applications (street engines, hydraulic roller cams, pump gas…etc.) it is probably best if you pick a long stroke. Long strokes would be considered 4.000” to 4.250” giving you 408 to 434 C.I.D. on a .030” over bore.
The longer stroke cranks will give you gobs of bottom end torque and match the “street” type components you will have in the rest of the engine. Plus, the long stroke will give you that seat of the pants feel that makes you smile when you mash the pedal.
Shorter Strokes for the Race Guys
For higher RPM engines and combinations using power adders (blowers, turbos, nitrous), you may want to limit the amount of stroke you will be using. Why? Well, the shorter stroke is able to rev more quickly and handle high RPM’s. Also, as the stroke increases, the piston wrist pin moves higher and higher inside the piston to compensate and piston skirts become shorter.
You need to keep the piston fairly tall to leave room for ring land spacing if the engine will be seeing extreme cylinder temperatures. If you use a piston that is too short in these powerful engines, you will see piston failure in no time. Short strokes would be 3.750” to 4.000” keeping you in the 383 to 408 C.I.D. range using the same 4.030” bore. Many boosted engines are built with the shorter strokes and big bores (4.125” or bigger) resulting in bigger C.I.D., without the sacrifice of the weak pistons needed with longer strokes.
Stroker Windsors require pistons with the pin moved closer to the top of the piston. Note how close the pin is to the oil ring groove.
Now you have the block and you need to fill it with some well chosen rotating parts. Given the abundance of choices of strokes, rod lengths, and pistons, it is definitely best to buy a Stroker Kit. Kits are great, because they save you the time and headache of trying to figure out what rod to use with what stroke and what compression height piston you should buy.
The stroker cranks are a little more complex than just having additional stroke. The counterweights and journals of strokers are set up for specific connecting rod dimensions: journal sizes and lengths. A kit matches the rods with the exact crank, so you don’t have to worry about your pistons hitting the rods or if the rods bolt onto the crank correctly.
The Rods Have to Match
The connecting rods in a kit are matched not only to the crank, but also to a specific piston design. The rods are picked by the kit designer to match journal sizes on the crank, clear the counterweights, and fit the pins correctly on the pistons.
Pistons are the last major component in the kit. They have an exact pin height for the additional stroke and matched connecting rod. Kits include pistons that will not only ensure that you don’t have deck clearance problems, but also fit the rod correctly and clear the crankshaft during rotation. They will allow for correct compression ratio with the longer stroke.
Buying a stroker kit also saves you the hassle of trying to figure out which bearings you need to use. Chamfered or not chamfered? Chevy journal size or Ford rod size? The correct matched bearings come in the kit and keep you from breaking out your measuring tools.
If you don’t want to buy a kit you can still piece together your own stroker design. But, a little math is helpful when figuring out your combination if you want to come up with your own stroke, rod, and piston design. You can use this formula to figure out which combinations go together (samples in parenthesis):
Deck height (9.500”)
Minus ½ the stroke (4.000” stroke, ½ = 2.000”)
Minus the rod length (6.200”)
Minus desired deck clearance (.020”)
Equals piston compression height needed ( 9.500-2.000 = 7.500, -6.200 = 1.300, – .010 = 1.280”)
The chart here shows some popular rod, stroke, and piston height dimensions using a 9.500” block with .020” deck clearance
Stroke / Rod Length / Piston Comp. Distance
3.750” / 6.125” / 1.480”
3.850” / 5.956” / 1.599”
3.900” / 6.200” / 1.330”
4.000” / 6.200” / 1.280”
4.100” / 6.200” / 1.230”
4.250” / 6.250” / 1.105”
On the left is a stock height Windsor piston (1.774″ comp. distance) made for stock stroke (3.500″) and rod length (5.956″). The other piston is made for a stroker with the pin relocated higher.
Tip 5: Get Strong Enough Rotating Parts
If you are planning on building a massive Windsor, chances are that you don’t just want stock power. You want more power. That’s the whole point, right? So you have to make sure that you know your power goals when putting the engine together in order to buy the right parts.
Most strokers use an aftermarket crankshaft that can be made from either cast steel or forged steel. Some companies call their cast cranks “Nodular” or use some other term, but they are still cast. These are great for strokers and are still considerably stronger than any of the factory cranks, but they have their limits. These cranks lose their desirability somewhere around the 600 horsepower mark, and may not be able to take the pounding that a forged piece can.
If you think you will ever (even way in the future) make more than the crank can support, go ahead and opt for the forged piece. Forgings are a lot stronger and are made from 5140 or 4340 steel that can take a lot more abuse than the cast pieces. Fortunately, either way you go, all of the cranks are usually well designed and have features for long lasting performance.
The rod choice is just as important. They will add significant horsepower, but if you will be spinning higher RPM’s, then the bolts used in the rods must be correct. OEM style I-Beam rods are great for lower RPM. In engines with less than 550 horsepower, they usually use some type of 8740 material fastener that will work for under 7000 RPM’s.
However, if you are going to be using a power adder or spinning more than 7000 revolutions, then H-Beam type rods with 8740 or better bolts are preferred. The bolts are important to RPM because as the engine races higher, the piston actually tries to pull the rods apart by the bolts, as the piston is trying to fly out of the top of the block.
Here you can see the differences between a forged 5140 type rod and a 4340 forged H-Beam rod. Notice the cap screw bolts on the H-Beam rods instead of the bolt and nut combination.
Yes, all pistons are aluminum. It is how they are manufactured that makes the difference in strength, as well as material. Hypereutectic pistons are formed by a process that distributes silicon equally throughout the alloy. These types of pistons are perfect for naturally aspirated street engines that won’t see much nitrous oxide. They run tight clearances for quiet operation and less blow by.
However, they don’t hold up to detonation or extreme pressures, so if you are planning on putting a little more heat in the cylinder, the forged pistons are the way to go. Forged pistons are formed under extrem
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