Nailed Through The Wall Full Video

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Nailed Through The Wall Full Video
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Wood Framing Toe-Nailing Connections Guide to using slant-driven nails for wood framed joists, studs, sill plates, top plates, & beams




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Wood frame toe nailing: how to toe-nail joists, studs, & beams in wood framed structures.
This article describes the proper method for strong "double-shear" angled or toe nailing of joists or studs that butt into beams or top or shoe plates in wood framed buildings.
Properly done, toe-nailing makes very strong wood framing connections. But mistakes like choosing the wrong nail size, wrong nail placement, or wrong number of nails can mean weak joints and a weak structure.
Wood framing connections & connectors: this article series explains the proper selection and installation of structural connectors, brackets & tie plates used to connect deck or porch framing and support members.
We also provide an ARTICLE INDEX for this topic, or you can try the page top or bottom SEARCH BOX as a quick way to find information you need.
Definition of toe-nailing : framing nails driven on an angle from opposing sides and through the nailed-through wood framing member into the nailed-to framing member so that the "crossed" opposed toe-nails form both a shear-resistant and a withdrawal-resistant connection between the framing members.
Toe-nailing or slant-driven nails are commonly used where it is not possible to drive through the side plate or top plate into the framing member, and has been historically widely used for connecting studs to the top or bottom plate, beam to plate, and rafter to plate or ridge board connections.
We will illustrate several of these toenail or slant-nail connections in this article.
Toe-nailing is used both stand-alone, without steel framing connectors and also toe-nailing is specified for the installation of some (not all) framing connectors.
In carpentry school we were taught that provided you use the correct type and size fastener (common nails, construction screws) and the correct number of them (there are tables and standards) toe-nailed from both sides of the abutment of a stringer face to the floor joist (or rafter to ridge and rafter to top plate, or stud to top and bottom plate) the connection is completely adequate, and is as strong as that made using proper joist hanger nails and joist hangers.
You will see that there are many opportunities to make a bad connection using either approach, in particular, using improperly-sized, placed, or number of fasteners. There is no evidence in my experience that people make fewer mistakes using a joist hanger than using direct nailing. They just make different mistakes.
Shear loads or lateral load are across the framing nails while withdrawal loads are those that tend to pull the framing nails out of the nailed-to member.
It is not necessary to use steel joist hangers if the joist is properly toe-nailed from either side into the ledger board, provided that the proper size and number of nails are used.
See FRAMING CONNECTORS & JOIST HANGERS for details about those connectors.
Our illustration (above left, adapted from a Double-Shear stamping on a steel joist hanger) explains why toe-nailed lumber connections can be very strong.
We drew in spray-brown color, a representation of wood framing members showing the abutting of 2x lumber (vertical in the illustration) with a header or beam (horizontal in the illustration).
The crossed nails, when applied close together (as guided by the framing connector or by the hand of a competent framing carpenter), form a very strong wood-to-wood connection.
Use of toe-nailing, or angled opposed framing nails (Double-Shear in Simpson Strong-Tie's patented[10] joist hanger such as the item adapted above), can permit the use of fewer total nails in a wood frame construction.
Our photo at left shows an unsuccessful use of toenailing in a failed attempt to connect intersecting glulam beams. The nails (those brown spots) pulled, broke, bent, and allowed the connection to fail.
The steel Lally columns are also not properly located an installed.
These beams are not properly connected and their structure is in danger of collapse. That some movement has already occurred is evident in the gap above my tape measure.
Because the "toe-nails" cross one another in the header or ledger board when used to secure a deck joist, this connection can actually be stronger than straight-in or end-nailing the deck joists from the other side of the ledger or girder.
But using too many nails (below left) or too few nails (below right) is a mistake that results in a weak connection and potentially an unsafe structure.
Using too many nails in a framing lumber connection when toe-nailing or in any position for that matter will also cause a weak framing connection that can lead to structural collapse.
That's because an excessive number of nails actually fractures the lumber. If you click-on and enlarge our photo at above left you'll see that the contractor fractured the vertical stud near its top. Our photo (left) shows about 30 nails shot by the builder during framing of this home.
The framer was trying to drive a recalcitrant stud into position. Clamps might have worked better.
This stud was so split as to lose its structural integrity, and replacement of this wall stud was needed.
As we show below, adding more nails, even with a pneumatic nail gun, does not do a great job of pulling together framing members that are separated.
Using too few toe-nails in a framing lumber connection is going to make a weak structure that could collapse.
For code compliant nailing see the nail schedules in the applicable building code for your area. For example see the UBC Table 25-Q Nailing Schedule . A few examples are cited below.
Above: a Simpson Strongtie® VPA variable pitch rafter-to-wall connector designed for solid sawn lumber. Notice that using the VPA rafter connector the bird's mouth cut or notch is eliminated. [Click to enlarge any image]
Below: a Simpson Strongtie® H1.81Z Hurricane Tie designed for LVL roof rafters to give a stronger connection to the top plate
At the ridge the rafter is toe-nailed to the ridge board OR a steel framing connector can be used. Below my photo shows separation between the rafter face and the ridge board.
Above: two visible, possibly four maximum, toe-nails through rafter ends along with some other rather odd wood framing in a U.S. home inspected by the author.
In my OPINION (not an engineering opinion) and from what we can see, these rafters are not adequately connected to the rest of the structure.
2-8d into joists at each end of the block or bridging
Other code & data source citations for nailing schedules are given below
Watch out : It is essential that nails be driven from both sides of the member for a proper toe-nailed connection.
Framing tip : if you've marked the stud, rafter, or joist location on the nailed-to plate or ridge board you may find that as you toe-nail the first nail into the side the nailed-through member begins to slide past the placement line.
If the movement of the nailed-through member off of the layout line is 1/8" or less, go ahead and finish the first nail, but then start the second nail on the opposite side of the nailed-through member. As you finish that nail you will drive the nailed-through member back to its exact position on the layout line.
If the movement off of the layout line is more than 1/8", stop nailing the first toe-nail and start the second opposite-side toenail to move the member back into position.
Rather than tippy-tap back and forth on the two sides, you should be able to fully drive the second nail even if it moves the member back over the layout line up to 1/8" in the opposite direction. When you finish nailing the first toenail you'll drive the member back into perfect position.
Then finish the remaining toenails, taking turns to nail from opposing sides.
at left is an example of angle or slant nailing that is not "toe nailing" because the nails for each connection are being driven into only one side of the mated wood members. That's ok for this application.
Incidentally, you may notice that the joist bridging shown at left was nailed at its upper end before the subfloor was set in place. But no one remembered to finish the job. The nails in the bridging ends show proper placement and angle for nailing into the joist bottom edges.
First let's understand the objective: we want the toe-nailed nails to accomplish the following:
If you're not sure about the angle (about 50° to 60° up from horizontal) or starting location of your nail from the end of the member, hold your toenail across an example of the to-be-connected lumber where the end of the nailed-to member is visible. You'll be able to see the depth to which it's going to penetrate.
Some model building codes such as the UBC specify the spacing for slant nailed or toenailed connections, with differing requirements depending on whether the objective is to reduce shear loading or lateral loading versus withdrawal loading.
Building code specifications for nailing schedules also include assumptions about the wood species and grade, typically Douglas-fir/larch or Southern Pine lumber.
Our photo (left) shows a built-up girder sitting atop a wood post with no visible connection.
But in my OPINION the typical "toenailing" of this girder to the post top that some builders may use would still be an inadequate connection.
This connection, discussed in detail at FRAMING CONNECTORS & JOIST HANGERS , is an unsafe structure that risks collapse.
Reader question: (July 22, 2012) Ron said: 3" or 3 1/4" for toe nailing 2x lumber?
In the article above you can see an illustration of toe-nailing showing nails crossing into the nailed-to member for strength.
Driven a properly-sized nail on a proper angle through the 1 1/2" of thickness of 2x lumber you've got 1- 3/4" bite into the lumber below;
Toe nailing can be quite strong if properly installed - with nails in pairs set on opposing sides and at opposing angles so that they "cross" inside the nailed-to wood. But if "toe nailing" is done only from one side the framing connection is not strong and in my opinion not proper.
It's also important to locate the toenail correctly - if it's too close to the bottom of the vertical stud or end of the horizontal framing joist it will split the wood and won't have enough bite in the nailed-through member.
If on the other hand the toenail is too high in the nailed-through member it won't have enough bite in the nailed-to member. I toenail about an inch from the end of the nailed-through member and on an angle that I can visualize as sending a good portion of the nail into the body of the nailed-into member.
Start by keeping the toenails a sufficient distance from the end of the nailed-through member but not so high that you won't have adequate penetration into the nailed-to member.
In our photo at left I point out the location of two of the four required toenails for nailing the rafter to the top plate at the birds' mouth cut.
I don't see any splitting but I'm worried that the nails may be a bit high. Depending on the size of nail used there may not be adequate penetration into the top plate.
Photo courtesy of Carson Dunlop Associates , a Toronto engineering & home inspection firm and home inspection education company.
Framing tip : experienced carpenters learn to place the long axis of the diamond-shaped cut tip of a common framing nail across the wood grain of the nailed-into member.
This position minimizes splitting. As you take the nail out of your nail apron with your left hand, just place the tip of your third finger on the nail tip and use your thumb and forefinger to roll the nail so that you feel its long axis against the flat of your third finger. With the nail in that position, as you start the fastener, place the long axis of the nail point across the wood grain.
A 3 1/2 inch common nail or 16d might be over-sized for toe-nailing and is likely to split the 2x, especially if nailed near the edges of the lumber.
You originally asked this question in an article on framing connectors. Framing connectors, an alternative to toenailing, are nailed straight into the respective framing members using common, galvanized but short framing connector nails, not full length common nails.
Separately, in our article on framing square use,
we explain how the bird's mouth cut is located in a rafter by following the rafter's line length from ridge to outer face of wall top plate.
Matt: those joist connections don't look too nice to me either. 1. The nails are rather close to the joist end. At some of those locations the joist end is splitting, giving a weak and potentially unsafe structural connection. 2. The nails are mis-driven in at least one case (from the joist top) - missing the ledger. 3. The ledger is split at the end from having driven what looks like 14 nails on that side of the outermost joist - and that's before even looking at the other side of the same joist where more nails may be present.
In a 2x6 joist I'd use a total of 8 8d or 10d nails, 4 per side, typically 8d in size or in some cases 10d - these are the most-commonly-used nail sizes when toe-nailing 2x framing lumber as unless you're using box nails, larger nails tend to split the lumber, especially when, as in your photo, they're nailed too close to the end of the joist.

4. The next ledger (near the photo's upper right corner) in is roughly cut, not flush with the ledger board, nailed too close to the joist end and perhaps too sports too many nails. Too many nails actually weaken the connection by splitting the wood especially at the joist end. 5. In the ledger board connection to the structure, there is an exposed nut and washer that look loose but I can't see enough to be sure how this framing member is secured to the building;
you sure want that ledger board to be properly and securely connected to the building (at what looks like a concrete block or parged foundation wall) 6. I see no flashing between ledger and building Watch out: inadequately or poorly fastened framing risks structural collapse and injury Luckily all is not lost. The careful addition of properly-sized steel joist hangers MIGHT be able to salvage this situation; the down-side is having to drive again more nails into the joist but the hangers can be nailed to the ledger board and those fasteners will be further away from the point at which the joist butts into the ledger board. When I've run into this situation and the lumber was badly split the contractor agreed to replace it and re-frame the area. When I've had to use steel joist hangers or mending plates in these situations I take great care to use the proper fastener; joist hanger nails or screws are manufacturered inthe proper size, both diameter and length, for use with these structural fasteners. Watch out : In my OPINION, I prefer using joist hanger screws for their ease of installation in spots where sometimes hammering space is limited, and because the screws have not just acceptable shear resistance but improved withdrawal resistance over nails. An example of that product is shown above, Simpson Strong-Tie Structural Screws SD9112R100 No.9 by 1-1/2-Inch Structural-Connector Screw - specifically designed for this application. The company says: Simpson Strong Tie SD Structural-Connector Screws are designed to be used with Simpson Connectors for both interior and exterior applications. Frankly I can't see much from one photo but I agree that some additional measures are appropriate.
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