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W ith skis desperately gripping the sugary snow and forehead slick with sweat as I stand panting heavily, I have one of those moments where I wonder if this might be how I die. Yes, I have a taste for melodrama. As I hesitate, wanting to put off the moment of attempting another turn aka another battle with gravity that I will surely lose , I let myself get distracted by the view: a pleasingly sparse landscape of white-clad, undulating peaks, elegantly bare-branched trees and a blue-tinted frozen lake. Other than a handful of burgundy buildings, there is no sign of habitation — no lifts, pistes or indeed other skiers to ruin the uncluttered scene. It feels as pure as nature can get. This is why people come ski touring in this particular corner of Norway , sliding their way up Tarven, a 1,m mountain only accessible by railway, in a painstakingly slow, zigzag formation. The solitude is intoxicating. I had experienced my first taste of touring only a few days earlier in Myrkdalen as part of a Freeride the Fjords package, which includes two days in the resort and two days of guided ski touring. I now feel ever-so-slightly out of my depth. Used to the French mega resorts of the Alps, Myrkdalen seemed quaintly bijou when we arrived, with just one hotel, one ski school, one hire shop, nine lifts and 21 pistes. But this, it transpires, is entirely intentional. Just 15 years ago, there was nothing here but agricultural land; expansion has been slow and steady, with a focus on sustainability rather than speed. The resort plans to build just one new lift every five years, with the money coming from accommodation offerings being developed alongside the infrastructure so that capacity grows in line with visitor numbers. And one that clearly works, if the empty slopes I experienced were anything to go by. As we explored the ski area, all gently rolling hills, I was taken with how large and open it felt. Myrkdalen was covered in the stuff, with 4m up top 1,m and 2m at the base m in April. After an enjoyable warmup on wide blues, it was time to lose my touring virginity — something I was mildly dreading. Suddenly I had to become a master of different boots, a whole new style of clipping into my skis and, key to the whole process, skins, long strips that adhere to the underside of your skis and slide forward in one direction but not back in the other. Starting from the highest T-bar lift at 1,m, we set off beneath a scorching sun in a cloudless dome of cornflower. Unsteady as Bambi taking his first steps, I wobbled my way along for the first few minutes, desperately trying to keep up with the group as I inwardly swore and my thighs burned. After 10 minutes, something clicked. I found my rhythm, striding forth smoothly with delighted confidence. We reached the highest point, m from where we started, in 90 minutes. And, finally, I got the point of it all. Which was lucky, considering how little I enjoyed the downhill journey. In the late afternoon, the snow was sticky and heavy, and I felt like Bambi for a second time. I got a few solid turns in but mainly just shrieked my way down — no style, no technique, just one long fight to stay upright. Myrkdalen is smack bang in fjord country, a fact that helped make the trip from there to our second base, the Vatnahalsen hotel, the most photogenic transfer on the planet. Boarding the hybrid Vision vessel, we gawped at the stupidly beautiful Unesco heritage-worthy Naeroyfjord, its rock walls reflected perfectly in the mirror-like surface of the water. The second part of the transfer — the Flamsbana railway — may not quite surpass it, but did its best, rivers slicing their way through deep gorges and waterfalls pouring down sheer cliff faces. The hotel itself felt thrillingly remote. So we did the next day, led by mountain guide Roald. If Myrkdalen had been entry level touring, this was a step up. Rotten snow repeatedly gave way at the bottom of our ascent, while steep stints made trusting the skins a challenge. As the sun slowly rose and the climb got easier, we found our stride, going long stretches without pausing. I felt the heady rush of endorphins pumping through my body, and started to feel something approaching euphoria — why had I never done this before? Two and a half hours after setting off we sat down for a quick lunch of Kvikk Lunsj the Norwegian version of a Kit Kat before tackling the next, steeper section for an hour or more. Some m or so of glorious skiing on soft, untouched powder, prompting a bath bomb of joy to start fizzing in my stomach, was followed swiftly by rotten, heavy conditions. I broke through the top layer of crusty snow more than once, falling softly on my side before righting myself, gritting my teeth and try, try, trying again. I had my surge of panic. I looked at the soothing view. Finally, the downhill was over — it was back on with the skins for a minute push to get back to the hotel. I felt strong and brave and unconquerable. And, as I tucked into dinner that night, a thoroughly deserved plate brimming with salmon, roasted asparagus, potatoes and couscous, I felt something else too. Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies. Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged in Please refresh your browser to be logged in. I would like to be emailed about offers, events and updates from The Independent. Read our privacy policy. More about Norway travel ski holidays. Join our commenting forum Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies Comments. 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April is when I've always chosen to ski with my family for the past eight years, yet many people completely discount it for a ski holiday. I do understand the hesitancy to commit to a ski trip later in the spring. This winter, even during the usually reliable months of January and February, the snow has been less than satisfactory in the Alps. The key to snowsure slopes even in late season? Those in the know have been enjoying the delights of snowsure skiing in April for years. By the time we reach the tail end of the season, the snowpack is incredibly stable. Across the pond in Banff , March historically averages 47 inches of snowfall which contributes to a deep snow depth of 71 inches at the resort base for the start of April. Want a snow fix this season, but not sure which resort would be best for you? Read our Where to Ski this Winter blog. So, with springs' solid snowpacks and regular top-ups enhancing your skiing experience, what would take the conditions to the next level? April is well-known for milder temperatures and sunny days. A hearty burger and diet Coke in the sunshine? Yes please! Naturally, the days are longer in spring compared to the winter months which means the lifts stay open that extra bit longer in April. Resorts tend to be quietest in April, even over the Easter break. As a result, you spend no time hanging around the rental shop picking up your gear. Although it may be peaceful on the pistes towards the end of the season, back at base it's a different story…. End of season events come in many different formats. In the same way that a train ticket is cheaper when travelling during off-peak times, April skiing shares a similar perk. Moving from destination to destination by car in April is a breeze. Train transfers are incredibly scenic as well. Green shoots emerge through snowy landscapes as the countryside undergoes a beautiful transformation. This can all be enjoyed in comfort before the influx of summer travellers start to fill up the carriages. This epic adventure features the Oslo to Bergen railway as you journey through Norway's breathtaking scenery and stop in some of the country's best ski resorts. The pleasant temperatures make exploring a new city far more enjoyable. Similarly to dining on the mountain, the climate brings the option of enjoying a coffee or lunch outside whilst taking in the hustle and bustle of an iconic city. Additionally, there aren't as many crowds moving about the streets, so you have room to breathe and stroll freely around attractions. If you're still not sure which resort would be best for you this winter, read our Where to Ski this Season blog. There's still time to book for this winter! However, now the benefits of April skiing have been revealed, it won't be long until our remaining availability is snapped up. If you're keen to hit the slopes at the end of the season, check out our offers for April Have your sights set on April ? You can find all our prices and offers for spring next year as well. To secure some late-season snow, enquire online or call our friendly, knowledgeable team on Like us on Facebook and follow us on Instagram for updates from our team and customers throughout the winter. Contact us Off-Peak Dates. By Country. Season Passes. What We Do. Holiday Info. Superb Snow Conditions. Bluebird Days and Lots of Them. Harry, Archie and Abbie enjoying a beer in the sunshine in Myrkdalen in April The dining views don't get much better than this! Keep linking your turns all afternoon! End of Season Atmosphere. Enjoy skiing as a family this April! The Oslo to Bergen railway is stunning in April. Tagged: School Holidays. Share this post:.
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