Myers Sump Pump Pit Sizing and Cover Recommendations

Reliable drainage doesn’t make headlines—until it fails. A flooded basement, a humming pump that never shuts off, or a lid that warps and leaks sewer gas into a finished space—those problems are unforgettable. I’ve been in more crawlspaces and basements than I can count, and in almost every flooded-floor call, I find the same culprits: undersized pits, mismatched pumps, and covers that aren’t sealed or serviceable.

Two summers ago during a Midwest thunderstorm, a family I’ll introduce in a moment called PSAM in a panic—sump cycling every 30 seconds, then silence, then water creeping across their new LVP flooring. That’s not bad luck; that’s bad design. It’s avoidable with the right pit geometry, an appropriately matched Myers sump pump, and a real cover solution that controls vapor, noise, and service access.

Meet the Morellos: Javier Morello (38), a high school math teacher, and his partner, Alina (36), a veterinary tech, live outside Defiance, Ohio, with their twins, Mateo (7) and Lila (7). Their 1940s farmhouse sits on a high water table. The existing 18" pit with a budget pump couldn’t keep up during storm surges. After a Red Lion unit cracked under repeated thermals and pressure cycles in under three years, they needed a fix that actually lasted. We sized a Myers sump system correctly, specified a deeper-mouthed basin, then added a gas-tight cover and accessories. Their basement has stayed bone-dry through three storm seasons.

In this guide, I’ll break down pit diameter and depth, cycle times, float clearance, inflow math, discharge plumbing, backup strategies, cover styles, noise control, gas sealing, serviceability, and installation best practices. We’ll also talk specific Myers models and why PSAM customers consistently see fewer callbacks and longer run lives with the right Myers pump in a properly sized basin. If you’re a rural homeowner, a contractor, or an emergency buyer, these twelve steps are the myers pump parts playbook that saves floors, furnaces, and weekends.

Awards and proof matter. Myers Pumps, backed by Pentair, delivers an industry-leading 3-year warranty, UL/CSA certifications, and repeatable performance. With engineered components designed for efficiency and longevity, the right Myers sump pump installed in the right pit runs quieter, cycles less, and protects the home better. I’m Rick Callahan at PSAM—my job is to make sure you get this right the first time.

When a sump pit is too small, your pump cycles constantly, overheats, and dies early; too large, and it risks stagnation and odor. The sweet spot depends on inflow and the pump you choose.

Technically, the pit is a buffer tank. For residential basements, a 18"–24" diameter basin at 24"–36" deep is the norm. A larger basin increases drawdown volume—the water removed per cycle—extending run times and reducing starts. With a Myers sump pump such as the MCI50 (1/2 HP) or MCI75 (3/4 HP), the higher capacity means you want enough drawdown to achieve 45–90 second run times under peak inflow. The basin’s geometry must also fit your float switch clearances and discharge plumbing.

Javier’s old 18" x 22" basin offered only about 6–7 gallons between on/off float setpoints. After we replaced it with a 24" x 30" basin, drawdown moved to ~13–15 gallons. His new water pump Myers MCI50 runs ~65–75 seconds during storms—perfect cycling that protects the motor and bearings.

Oversizing sounds safe, but too large a pit with low inflow allows debris and biofilm to sit and stink. Target a size that yields 45–120 seconds per cycle during peak events, and at least 30 seconds during average storms.

Aim for no more than 10–12 starts per hour during peak inflow. If you’re over that, upsize basin diameter, deepen the pit, or select a Myers pump with a higher GPM and adjust float spacing.

Provide 4–6 inches of vertical clearance above the pump for heat dissipation and 3–4 inches around the pump body for service. Myers pumps have compact footprints that fit standard basins without crowding floats.

Key takeaway: Size the basin to your inflow and your Myers pump’s output, not the other way around.

Short cycling is the fastest way to burn out a motor. Drawdown—the usable water between float ON and OFF—is what controls the cycle length.

Use this quick formula for a round pit: Drawdown (gal) ≈ 0.0408 × D² × H Where D = pit diameter in inches; H = float differential (inches)

For a 24" diameter pit with a 10" float differential: 0.0408 × 24² × 10 ≈ 23.5 gallons At 45 GPM, that’s a ~31-second run. Raise the differential to 12" and you’re near 38 seconds. Add a Myers pump with adjustable float or move to a vertical float with controlled setpoints to dial in 45–60 seconds.

The Morellos’ previous float was fixed with a tight 6" swing. By switching to a vertical float and spacing 10–11", we doubled runtime. The Myers water pump handled the added run duration easily with cooler operation.

Longer, fewer cycles reduce heat. Even for a 1/2 HP pump, the motor’s life is tied to start-stop frequency. Protect that motor by increasing drawdown instead of oversizing horsepower.

With a bucket and stopwatch, time the cycle during a hose feed test. Fine-tune float setpoints for target cycle times.

Key takeaway: Proper drawdown is cheap insurance for long pump life.

A well-sized pit won’t save you if the pump is mismatched. Myers offers a spectrum of sump pumps engineered for residential and light commercial drainage. For basements with typical 8–12 foot lifts and 1-1/2" discharges, the Myers sump pump MCI50 (1/2 HP) and MCI75 (3/4 HP) are workhorses. Expect 40–70 GPM at 10 feet of head depending on model and piping losses.

Myers’ construction shines: 300 series stainless steel fasteners and shafts, robust housings, and a balanced impeller that tolerates light debris without shredding seals. Pair the pump curve to your required head and target a flow in the mid-curve, not at shutoff or max. That’s where your energy efficiency and longevity live.

For the Morello home, we selected the MCI50 because their inflow averaged ~18–25 GPM during peak storms. The larger 24" x 30" pit kept cycles in the safe zone and preserved headroom for a backup pump.

Read the curve. At 10 feet of total dynamic head (TDH), ensure your pump delivers at least 25–35% more than the average inflow. That buffer handles surges.

Stainless resists corrosion in damp pits. Look for a hardened shaft, sealed bearings, and a robust float mechanism. Myers checks all those boxes.

If your pit is 18" and shallow, prefer a vertical float pump to avoid hang-ups. Larger pits tolerate tethered floats and multiple pumps.

Key takeaway: A Myers pump sized to mid-curve performance, not just horsepower, keeps your basement dry and your utility bills predictable.

The pit’s mission is to intercept water before it elevates slab vapor or hydrostatic pressure. Your inlet pipes need to be drilled/slotted or connected with drain tile at an elevation that creates a low spot relative to the slab.

Place the pump base at least 2–3 inches above sediment using a brick or stand. Maintain 2–3 inches between the OFF float and the pump inlet to prevent airlock. The pit depth of 24–36 inches gives you room for floats, check valve, and a sealed cover without cramping service.

At the Morellos’, the original pit floor sat only 1" below the slab edge, starving the pump and feeding slab moisture. We cored deeper by 6", added a gravel base, and re-set the basin. Moisture readings dropped within a week.

A 3–4" crushed stone bed below the pit resists movement and offers drainage. Keep the basin plumb; canted pits cause floats to hang or false-trigger.

Never undermine the footing. Maintain at least 12–16" from footing edges when enlarging pits.

Use a fine-mesh sock or screen to minimize silt ingestion without clogging. Clean during annual maintenance.

Key takeaway: Elevation and depth decisions protect both the structure and your pump’s ability to keep up.

Your pump can be perfect and still struggle if the discharge is restrictive or noisy. Standardize on 1-1/2" Schedule 40 PVC for most residential sump pumps with a properly sized check valve 12–18" above the pump discharge. Include a union for easy service.

A full-port swing or spring check valve with a soft seat reduces water hammer. Keep elbows to a minimum; when unavoidable, use two 45s instead of a single 90 to reduce head loss. Terminate the discharge well away from the foundation—minimum 5–10 feet—and daylight where freezing won’t seal the line.

Javier’s discharge originally used corrugated hose with ribbed interior that tripled friction loss and gurgled like a flute. We replaced it with 1-1/2" PVC, a quiet check valve, and an air gap at an exterior splash block. Problem solved.

Drill a 3/16" weep hole in the discharge pipe 6–8" above the pump outlet, below the check valve, and angled downward into the pit. This prevents trapped air from stalling the impeller.

Install a union or a shielded coupling above the check valve for quick pump pulls. Your future self will thank you.

Slope the exterior run and keep the last vertical drop short to avoid ice plugs. In cold climates, consider an insulated termination.

Key takeaway: Treat discharge plumbing like part of the pump—because it is.

A sump lid isn’t an afterthought. The cover controls humidity, radon, sewer gas migration (on pits tied to perimeter drain tile), and noise. Choose a rigid, gas-tight cover with a compressible gasket, stainless fasteners, and sealed penetrations. You need ports for 1-1/2" discharge, a vent if required, power cord egress, and an inspection/service panel.

PSAM stocks covers that pair with standard 18" and 24" basins, along with universal retrofit plates. For the Morellos’ 24" pit, we installed a composite, bolt-down cover with a silicone-gasketed cord grommet and a removable service hatch. Basement air quality improved immediately.

Use grommeted seals or compression fittings. No foam-and-hope. Vapor finds gaps.

A rigid lid with a gasket dampens pump and check-valve noise by 30–50%. That’s the difference between “Is something running?” and peace.

A hinged or removable panel allows testing floats and checking for debris without full removal. Future maintenance stays quick and clean.

Key takeaway: A sealed, serviceable cover protects health, comfort, and equipment.

Storms knock out power precisely when inflow spikes. A redundant system is simple: two pumps in one pit (staggered floats) or a single primary with a dedicated battery backup pump. Pair a primary Myers sump pump with a high-output DC backup and alarm.

In frequent-outage regions or for finished basements, I prefer two AC pumps—primary and secondary on a separate circuit or inverter generator—with a battery backup layered in. The Morellos chose a primary Myers MCI50 and a DC backup with a separate float. During a brief outage last spring, the DC unit carried 90 minutes of heavy inflow without drama.

Set the secondary float 2–3" higher than the primary ON point. If inflow overwhelms the primary, the second pump engages automatically.

For serious storms, a 100–120 Ah battery won’t cut it. Use 2× 100–150 Ah AGM or LiFePO4 with a smart charger. Test monthly.

Add a high-water alarm and, if possible, a Wi-Fi module. Alerts buy you time.

Key takeaway: Redundancy turns a potential disaster into a non-event.

Where perimeter drains tie to sanitary systems (common in older homes) or in radon-prone regions, a gas-tight cover is not optional. Some basins require a dedicated vent tie-in—check local code. A sealed lid with a vent stub allows connection to a radon mitigation system or to building plumbing where permitted.

The Morellos’ county recommends sealed lids for all sumps due to elevated radon incidence. We used a gasketed cover with a capped 2" vent port that can be tied to mitigation later if readings spike.

Sewer gas odor is a warning sign. So is persistent humidity around the pit. Seal it and vent it correctly to protect indoor air quality.

Every hole in the lid must be sealed with a grommet or compression boot. Don’t leave annular gaps around discharge or cords.

A sealed cover also reduces airborne noise from quick-closing check valves, making the system house-friendly.

Key takeaway: Vent and seal now so you don’t solve air problems later.

Noise is often installation-related, not pump-related. A quality, soft-seat check valve reduces slam. Firmly support vertical and horizontal runs with isolation clamps to prevent pipe chatter. A sealed cover, as above, is the final polish.

We swapped the Morellos’ bargain check valve for a quiet, spring-assisted model and added cushioned clamps at 4-foot intervals. The result: a muted, brief whoosh with almost no slam.

A plumb vertical rise reduces turbulence and vibration. Misalignment equals noise and wear.

Vertical floats are quieter than long tethers slapping a basin wall. Another point in their favor.

Key takeaway: Design for quiet and your sump won’t be the loudest thing in the house.

A well-installed system deserves simple maintenance. Once a year, pull the lid panel, check for debris, test the float manually, and verify the weep hole is clear. Inspect the check valve for seepage or backflow noise. If you run a battery backup, test-run and confirm charger output voltage.

The Morellos keep a laminated checklist near the https://www.plumbingsupplyandmore.com/convertible-shallow-or-deep-well-jet-pump-1-2-hp.html pit. Ten minutes every spring and fall, and they haven’t had a surprise in three years.

Shop-vac silt from the basin bottom; clean the pump intake screen. Myers designs make it easy to access the intake and inspect the impeller.

Lift the float and listen for clean starts/stops. Sticky floats cause unexplained puddles.

Load-test the battery annually. Replace AGM batteries every 4–6 years or per manufacturer guidance.

Key takeaway: The best maintenance plan is the one you’ll do. Keep it short and consistent.

Let’s address the elephant in the room: not all pumps are equal. Material quality, motor windings, shaft hardness, seal quality, and impeller balance show up as longer life and fewer callbacks. Myers builds for the long run with stainless fasteners, durable seals, and impellers that tolerate silty water without shredding themselves.

In the Morellos’ case, a previous Red Lion with a thermoplastic volute cracked after repeated heat cycles and hammer events. The Myers upgrade eliminated thermal flex issues, and the motor runs cooler thanks to fewer starts.

Expect engineered composite impellers, hardened shafts, and robust mechanical seals. That’s where costs differ—and why service life does too.

Longer, fewer cycles keep windings cool. Pairing a quality pump with proper pit sizing creates the environment that rewards premium components.

PSAM stocks parts, so if you ever do need a seal kit or float, you’re not stranded.

Key takeaway: Good components inside a smart installation create the long service lives homeowners expect.

Most basements need a straightforward sump. Some don’t. Finished basements with a bathroom might require an ejector or a Myers grinder pump. Crawlspaces with chronic silt may need a vortex impeller model less prone to clogging. High inflow properties call for dual 1/2 HP pumps over a single oversized unit to spread duty and preserve redundancy.

Javier considered upsizing to 3/4 HP. We stuck with 1/2 HP because the pit upgrade and proper float differential solved inflow—and kept noise and amperage lower. Save horsepower upsizing for sustained inflows that genuinely require it.

Two matched pumps with staggered floats often outperform a single big unit in reliability and control.

For ejector and grinder basins, use sealed, vented covers with the correct 2" vent and 2" discharge penetrations. Don’t improvise.

Key takeaway: Choose the right tool for the job. Myers builds all three categories, and PSAM will help you spec the correct system.

Compared to Goulds Pumps in corrosive, high-humidity sump environments, Myers’ emphasis on stainless hardware and robust seals pays dividends. Goulds has reputable models, but many residential lines lean on mixed materials with exposure-sensitive fasteners. Myers’ heavier-duty construction and impeller balance maintain performance over countless starts. On the efficiency front, Myers focuses on mid-curve stability—fewer amps per gallon moved when cycle times are correct. Real-world difference? Less bearing heat, longer seal life.

Service-wise, Myers units are relaunched for quick access: fasteners that don’t seize, covers that don’t crumble when you touch them, and float gear that doesn’t lose shape. For homeowners like Javier and Alina who can’t babysit a pit, those decisions show up as years of quiet reliability. Add PSAM stocking and tech support, and day-two service isn’t a scavenger hunt. For basements you’ll actually live in, the Myers/PSAM pairing is worth every single penny.

Franklin Electric is a respected name in wells, but in sump applications where field service and straightforward parts access matter, Myers is simpler to support without dealer lock-ins. Franklin’s ecosystems can favor proprietary control accessories and networks. Myers’ sump lineup focuses on readily accessible components, straightforward float options, and no-nonsense serviceability. Installation complexity and long-term maintenance are lower, especially for contractors who standardize on parts. That’s why our repeat pros choose Myers basins and pumps—less downtime, fewer callbacks, and cleaner installs. For long-term ownership cost, that consistency is worth every single penny.

Red Lion’s residential sump offerings hit attractive price points. I’ve replaced countless cracked thermoplastic volutes and fatigued check-valve setups in wet pits where thermal cycling and hammer are routine. In those same basins, a Myers sump pump with more rigid housings and robust seals remains stable through the abuse. From a TCO perspective—pump longevity plus fewer service calls plus preserved finishes upstairs—the savings add up quickly. Buy once, install right, and the Myers advantage shows every storm season. Again—worth every single penny.

For wells, horsepower is about Total Dynamic Head (TDH) and flow needs. Measure static water level, pumping level, vertical lift to the pressure tank, plus friction losses. Most homes work in the 1/2–1 HP range, with deeper systems needing more stages. A 1 HP Myers submersible well pump can deliver 10–15 GPM at 150–250 feet TDH depending on staging. Match the pump curve so your operating point sits near the Best Efficiency Point (BEP). For households, 8–12 GPM continuous covers typical simultaneous use (shower + laundry + sink). If your depth is 150–300 feet, a Myers deep well pump in the Predator Plus Series offers multiple staging options to hit GPM targets efficiently. Rick’s recommendation: share your well log and fixture count with PSAM—we’ll run the numbers against the pump curves and size the exact HP/stage count. Right-size HP avoids short cycling and slashes electric costs.

Most homes need 8–12 GPM to feel comfortable, with 15+ GPM for larger families or irrigation use. Multi-stage impellers in a submersible well pump create pressure by stacking pressure increases per stage—more stages equal higher head. In the Myers Predator Plus lineup, you can select 7–20+ stages depending on well depth. For example, a 3/4 HP, 10 GPM model might hit 200–300 feet of head at its BEP, giving stable pressure through the pressure switch’s 40/60 PSI cycle. Multi-stage design also improves efficiency and reduces cavitation risk. For sump systems, higher GPM clears water faster; however, you must balance basin size and float differential to avoid short cycling. PSAM can help match GPM to your property’s demands.

Predator Plus pumps leverage precise stage geometry, Teflon-impregnated staging, and self-lubricating impellers that resist sanding and maintain tight clearances over time. Pair that with a Pentek XE motor designed for high-thrust loads at lower amperage, and you get 80%+ hydraulic efficiency when operating near BEP. Efficiency translates to cooler motor temperatures, reduced energy use, and extended component life. Many competitors lose efficiency as clearances open with wear or as stage materials deform under heat. Myers’ materials stay stable, so the curve you installed stays the curve you operate on. In real homes, we see 15–20% lower energy costs year over year versus budget brands running off-curve.

In wells, 300 series stainless steel resists corrosion from mineral-rich and acidic water that attacks cast iron. Iron components can pit and shed scale, damaging impellers and seals. Stainless maintains surface integrity, preserving efficiency and extending life. Myers uses 300 stainless for shells, shafts, couplings, wear rings, and suction screens—critical parts that keep the hydraulic envelope tight. In sump environments, stainless fasteners and hardware avoid the galling and seizure that make service impossible. Bottom line: stainless protects your investment, especially in challenging water chemistries. That’s why a Myers pump outlasts cast-heavy builds in the field.

Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers reduce friction and abrasion, allowing micro-particles to pass without scouring the impeller edges and stage bores. In practice, that means clearances stay tight, performance stays on-curve, and thrust loads remain predictable. Sand scoring is a common silent killer—efficiency drops, heat rises, and seals fail. Myers’ engineered composite materials handle incidental grit far better than plain polymers. In sandy wells, we also recommend proper intake screening and, when needed, a sediment arrestor. The result is years of steady output instead of a slow fade to early replacement.

The Pentek XE motor uses optimized windings, high-thrust bearings, and thermal overload protection with robust lightning protection. High-thrust bearings support multi-stage impellers under axial load without premature wear. Efficient windings translate to lower amperage draw at the same output, keeping temperatures down and extending insulation life. These motors are designed for continuous duty and frequent starts when sized correctly. Combined with Myers hydraulics, the XE motor keeps the pump in its efficiency window longer, pushing real-world service life into the 8–15 year range—and 20+ years with ideal conditions and maintenance.

If you’re comfortable with electrical, plumbing, and rigging safety, a competent DIYer can install a Myers submersible well pump. You’ll need the correct wire gauge, a pitless adapter, drop pipe, torque arrestor, and a proper pressure switch and tank setup. Many homeowners hire a pro because pulling 200+ feet of drop pipe is hazardous without the right equipment. For sumps, DIY installs are common—especially when PSAM supplies a complete kit. My advice: if your well is deep or you’re unsure on pump curve selection and TDH math, hire a pro or call PSAM for guidance. We’ll prevent costly mistakes before they happen.

A 2-wire well pump integrates the start components internally; wiring is simpler, and there’s no external control box. A 3-wire well pump uses an external control box housing the start capacitor and relay—serviceable without pulling the pump, and sometimes preferred for deep installations or when diagnostics matter. Myers offers both. For many homes, 2-wire simplifies installation and reduces upfront cost by $200–$400. For very deep wells, or if you want easy capacitor swaps, 3-wire can be appealing. PSAM will compare amp draws, depth, and service preferences to recommend the best fit.

In typical residential wells, 8–15 years is realistic. With clean water, correct sizing, and annual checks, I’ve seen Myers submersible well pump systems run past 20 years. Properly sized pressure tanks limit starts, protecting motors and bearings. For sump pumps, 7–10 years is common in active pits when cycle times are controlled and the lid is sealed. The 3-year warranty is your assurance that Myers and Pentair stand behind the build—far longer than the 12–18 months you’ll get from many competitors.

For wells: annually check pressure tank pre-charge (2 PSI below cut-in), verify pressure switch contacts are clean, inspect for leaks, and check amperage draw under load. Every 3–5 years, test flow and pressure to detect gradual declines. For sumps: semi-annual pit cleaning, float testing, and weep-hole verification. Backup batteries get annual load tests and replacement per manufacturer. Keep discharge lines clear and pitched. A little attention keeps your Myers deep well pump or sump system running quietly for years.

Myers’ 3-year warranty covers manufacturing defects and performance issues—triple the coverage common with budget brands and longer than many mid-tier competitors. Wayne often offers 1 year on residential sump units; you’re exposed after month 13. Myers’ extended protection lowers total cost of ownership by insulating you against early failures. Register the pump, save receipts, and follow installation guidelines. PSAM assists with documentation and troubleshooting to get you running fast if you ever need support.

A budget sump might be half the price upfront but often lasts 3–5 years, leading to two or three replacements in a decade, plus labor, potential water damage, and higher energy use as efficiency drifts. A properly installed Myers sump pump or Myers submersible well pump typically runs 8–15 years with steady performance. Factor in energy savings from operating near BEP, fewer service calls, and PSAM’s parts support—Myers wins on total cost every time. In homes like the Morellos’, that’s fewer emergencies and more weekends you actually enjoy.

Sump protection isn’t complicated when you respect the details: a correctly sized pit, a matched Myers pump running in its sweet spot, tight discharge plumbing, a gas-tight cover, and maintenance you’ll actually do. For Javier and Alina Morello, upgrading from a cramped basin and a cracked thermoplastic unit to a 24" x 30" pit, a Myers MCI50, quiet check valve, and sealed cover ended three years of anxiety. Three storm seasons later—no drama, no damage, just dry floors.

At Plumbing Supply And More, my “Rick’s Picks” for sump protection focus on Myers because the brand delivers what basements need: durable materials, predictable performance, and industry-leading support. Whether you’re a contractor speccing multiple basins or a homeowner solving a Friday-night flood, call PSAM. We’ll size your pit and pump, ship fast, and get your home protected—worth every single penny.