Myers Pump Installation: Piping and Valves Essentials

A cold shower that turns into a dribble, then nothing—no water at all. In most rural homes, that’s a full-stop emergency. I’ve rolled on dozens of calls like this, and nine times out of ten the fix wasn’t just “swap the pump and hope.” It was piping and valves configured correctly so the new pump runs at its best. A great pump can’t overcome a flawed piping layout.

Meet the Sharmas. Rahul Sharma (38), a high school science teacher, and his spouse, Priya (36), a nurse, live on 7 acres outside Silverton, Oregon, with their kids Mira (9) and Dev (6). Their 240-foot well ran a budget submersible that failed during weekend laundry—classic overheated motor after months of rapid cycling and poor flow control. A previous installer used undersized drop pipe, skipped a check valve at the tank tee, and put the pressure switch in a dead-end tee where it never saw true system pressure. Their Red Lion unit lasted 28 months. The impellers wore from grit, and pressure dropped every time a fixture opened.

This guide is the piping and valve roadmap I use to set up a Myers Predator Plus system correctly—so it runs quietly, efficiently, and for years. We’ll cover: stainless steel and impeller advantages; correct pitless adapters and drop pipe; check valves and anti-cycling; pressure tank sizing; pressure switch placement; tank tees and fittings; torque control and cable guards; yard hydrant and irrigation splits; frost protection and drain-down; air release and snubbers to tame water hammer; control box and wiring routes; and commissioning with pump curves. If you’re a rural homeowner, a contractor, or an emergency buyer, here’s how to install a Myers pump that simply works—day after day.

Awards and backing matter. Myers Predator Plus submersibles run 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP, come with a 3-year warranty, and benefit from Pentair’s engineering depth—plus Made in USA quality and UL/CSA listings. At PSAM, we ship fast, stock the fittings you’ll actually need, and I post the pump curves, kit recommendations, and Rick’s Picks so you don’t miss a critical part.

I’m Rick Callahan, PSAM’s technical advisor. I’ve sized and installed hundreds of systems—residential and light commercial. What follows is field-tested, mistake-proof guidance to keep your Myers water well pumps delivering clean, steady water for the long haul.

Reliable water starts with a durable pump end, a strong motor, and a piping plan that lets both breathe. Under-spec’d materials and poor staging get chewed up fast in real wells.

Myers’ Predator Plus submersibles use 300 series stainless steel in the shell, discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, wear ring, and suction screen—fully lead-free and corrosion resistant in mineral-rich or mildly acidic water. The pump end uses Teflon-impregnated staging with self-lubricating impellers—an engineered composite that shrugs off grit and sand better than conventional plastics. Powering this package, the Pentek XE motor provides high-thrust torque, thermal overload protection, and lightning protection. In the field, this combo translates to steady flow, low amp draw near best efficiency point (BEP), and a service life I routinely see in the 8–15 year range—longer with good water quality and maintenance. Select 1/2 HP to 2 HP models for 7–20+ GPM rating, matching staging to TDH (total dynamic head).

The Sharmas’ well is 240 feet with a static level around 60 feet. We moved them to a Myers Predator Plus 1 HP, 10–12 GPM configuration, staged for ~280 feet of head to cover vertical lift plus pressure. The stainless and staging alone solve half their previous problems.

Choose the pump end first—flow and head requirements drive everything. Use the pump curve to position your operating point at or slightly left of BEP for both efficiency and motor cooling. At PSAM, we’ll run the numbers with you.

High-thrust matters when you’re pushing tall columns. The Pentek XE handles higher starts without cooking windings. On 230V single-phase, expect smooth starts and consistent amperage draw.

From suction screen to discharge, 300 series stainless steel resists pitting and crevice attack far better than cast iron in many aquifers. That translates into longer life for check valves, seals, and wear rings.

Key takeaway: Start with a Myers pump end and motor designed to live in a real well, not a lab. Get the head/flow match right; the rest of the system will thank you.

Even the best pump underperforms through a straw. Undersized drop pipe can add 20–40 feet of friction head and hammer a motor all day.

For most 10–12 GPM residential systems, 1–1/4" NPT drop pipe is the sweet spot. Go 1" only if the pump curve and distances justify it. From pump discharge to pitless adapter, stay consistent. At the wellhead, the pitless adapter should match the system’s flow and frost depth requirements. Use lead-free brass or stainless pitless bodies with O-rings rated for burial. On deep sets (150–300 feet), use Schedule 120 PVC or high-quality PE SDR-rated pipe with stainless clamps—double-clamped, opposed-screw orientation.

Rahul’s original installer used 1" drop pipe on a 12 GPM pump—pressure was fine at a trickle, but shower plus washing machine sent flow sideways. We upsized to 1–1/4" drop pipe, stainless couplers, and a stainless pitless designed for Oregon frost depth.

At 12 GPM, 1–1/4" pipe beats 1" by a mile. Those few PSI saved at the wellhead become steady flow at the kitchen. Use the curve and line loss to set staging correctly.

Set the pitless level square with the casing and torque it properly. Apply thread sealant sparingly on NPTs. Ensure the well cap seals tight and is screened—keep bugs and debris out.

Install a torque arrestor just above the pump and a cable guard every 10–20 feet. Keep the power cable taped to drop pipe at 24–36 inch intervals with UV-stable tape. Protect the splice with a heat-shrink wire splice kit.

Key takeaway: Right pipe size, right pitless, and clean routing protect your investment and keep the motor in its comfort zone.

A drifting pressure gauge and rapid cycling often trace back to check valve mistakes. One at the pump, one near the tank tee, and none in between is the recipe.

Most Myers submersibles include an internal check valve. In deeper sets (over ~100 feet), add a spring-loaded, full-flow stainless check at the tank side—downstream of the well line’s entry, upstream of the tank tee. Avoid stacking checks along the drop pipe; trapped columns can hammer hard and mask leaks.

For the Sharmas, the tank-side check was missing and the pump’s internal check was the only backstop. The system bled down through minor fixture seepage, causing the switch to re-call every few minutes. A single in-line stainless check near the tank stabilized everything.

Rely on the pump’s internal check in most standard residential installs. Add one—and only one—external check at the tank on longer or older systems to protect against column drain-back.

Multiple checks create trapped air pockets and water hammer. If pressure drops with fixtures closed, find the leak; don’t stack valves as a crutch.

Close the main valve at the tank tee. If pressure holds, the house is leaking. If not, the well line or check valve is suspect. Simple, effective troubleshooting.

Key takeaway: Two checks, smartly placed, make a stable system. Anything else is asking for cycling headaches.

Short cycling kills motors. Your pressure tank is the flywheel of the system; undersize it and you’ll wear out even the best pump.

Rule of thumb: aim for at least one gallon of drawdown per GPM of pump capacity at your chosen cut-in/cut-out. For a 10–12 GPM pump at 40/60 PSI, that’s typically a 44–62 gallon tank (approximately 12–18 gallons drawdown). Verify the tank’s drawdown chart at 40/60. Keep the precharge 2 PSI below cut-in—so with 40/60, set precharge at 38 PSI with no water in the tank.

Priya noticed frequent on-off cycles during dishwashing. Their old 20-gallon tank had ~5–6 gallons drawdown at 40/60. We installed a 62-gallon tank, set precharge to 38 PSI, and the cycling vanished.

Check precharge annually with power off and system drained. A low precharge turns your tank into a waterlogged can, doubling cycling and stress.

Install on a solid base, plumb with a short, straight run from the tank tee, and avoid soft hoses that kink or pulse. Quiet systems last longer.

For irrigation or large homes, two medium tanks in parallel can smooth flow and fit space better than a single giant tank.

Key takeaway: Right-sized tanks protect your pump, reduce energy use, and make water delivery feel “city-smooth.”

A pressure switch only works if it “sees” true line pressure with minimal delay. Mount it on the tank tee or a short 1/4" nipple off the tee—never at the end of a long, debris-prone pigtail.

Mount your switch vertical, protected from moisture, and within code distance of the control box. Add a pressure snubber or restrictor at the switch port if you’re fighting chatter from rapid transients. Keep conductors neatly routed and strain-relieved.

Rahul’s old switch lived on a 12-inch dead-leg with a crusted elbow; it lagged and chattered. We reset the switch on the tank tee with a brass snubber. Smooth control restored.

Most homes feel best at 40/60 PSI. Larger ranches or multi-story homes may benefit from 50/70, but confirm the pump’s shut-off head and motor amps before increasing.

Install a gauge and a blow-down port at the tee. Periodically flush to clear sediment that can clog the switch port.

Use properly sized conductors, tight terminations, and sealing where needed. Loose connections cause heat, nuisance trips, and premature switch failure.

Key takeaway: A clean, direct pressure signal prevents nuisance cycling and extends the life of both switch and pump.

A proper tank tee is the system’s traffic cop. It should provide full flow from the well line, clean ports for the switch and gauge, and service isolation where it counts.

Use a lead-free brass or stainless tee. From the well line, enter the bottom or side port, then continue straight to the house branch. Keep the check valve, pressure switch, gauge, and drain valve at the tee. Add full-port ball valves: one isolating the house, one isolating the well line, and a boiler drain for drain-down and sampling.

The Sharmas’ previous installer stacked too many elbows and choked flow with a reduced-ported valve. We re-piped with full-ports, a clean tee, and a tidy manifold—pressure recovered and diagnostics became simple.

Avoid restrictive valves near the tee. Full-ports retain flow rate and reduce pressure drop at high demand.

Place a drain valve at the tee for clean sampling—don’t sample from a garden spigot downline. Good samples prevent misdiagnosis of iron, hardness, or bacteria issues.

Leave a plugged port for adding a booster pump or irrigation branch later. A smart tee now saves rework later.

Key takeaway: Simple, straight, full-flow piping at the tee equals performance and serviceability.

Construction, motor efficiency, and service access define long-term value. Myers’ all- 300 series stainless steel pump ends resist corrosion in water with high mineral content or acidic pH. Goulds commonly uses cast iron in certain components, which can corrode and stain in aggressive water. The Myers Teflon-impregnated staging reduces abrasive wear compared to many standard impeller plastics. On the motor side, the Pentek XE motor delivers high-thrust starts, tighter efficiency near BEP, and built-in thermal overload and lightning protection, cutting nuisance burnouts. Service-wise, Myers’ threaded assembly design is genuinely field serviceable, allowing staged repairs without a complete pump-end replacement.

In the field, these differences play out as fewer service calls, longer intervals between replacements, and steady amperage draw—hallmarks of an efficient install. Goulds pumps can perform well in neutral water, but in corrosive conditions I see faster degradation. Franklin Electric submersibles often tie you to proprietary control box requirements and dealer networks for certain models, raising service costs and downtime.

For homeowners dependent on a private well, the math is easy: fewer replacements, lower energy bills, and simple on-site service make Myers the durable choice. Backed by Pentair and supported by PSAM’s stock and tech help, it’s worth every single penny.

Not every home draws water at the pump’s best operating point. Use flow controls to keep the multi-stage pump happy when demand swings from a faucet to irrigation.

A fixed-rate Dole valve or a Cycle Stop Valve (CSV) can hold discharge flow steady and extend run times, protecting motors from rapid on/off cycles. For 10–12 GPM pumps, a CSV set around 7–9 GPM can smooth household draws while still feeding a sprinkler zone. Always confirm the pump’s cooling needs—submersibles cool by flow past the motor; don’t choke them below safe minimums.

For the Sharmas, a small CSV stabilized their shower/laundry overlap without oversizing the pressure tank. Their amperage draw flattened, and the motor stayed cool.

Install the CSV after the tank tee and before branches, per manufacturer instructions. Keep service valves before and after for easy maintenance.

Control valves help, but they don’t excuse a mismatched pump. Always start with the correct stages and TDH.

If you irrigate, consider a second branch with its own pressure regulation to prevent house pressure dips.

Key takeaway: Anti-cycling tools are insurance for variable demand—used correctly, they make a good system great.

Configuration impacts cost, startup behavior, and maintenance. Myers Predator Plus offers 2-wire and 3-wire options. In many residential installs, a 2-wire configuration simplifies the job—no external control box, fewer components, and $200–$400 saved upfront. Choose 3-wire when longer runs or specific start/stop profiles are needed, or when a contractor prefers external component access.

Use a heat-shrink wire splice kit at the pump connection—no exceptions. Run conductors in conduit where exposed, and secure strain relief at the well cap. For 230V single-phase, verify breaker and wire gauge per run length and motor amps.

Rahul’s original pump used a sloppy crimp and tape “splice” 20 feet above the pump. It wicked and failed. We used a proper heat-shrink kit with adhesive-lined sleeves and routed the cable with cable guards.

Check motor FLA and run length. Undersized wire causes voltage drop, heat, and premature motor death. Follow Myers and NEC guidelines.

Fewer parts to fail, faster installs, and often lower costs. For many 1/2 to 1 HP, 230V systems, it’s an excellent option.

For 3-wire, mount the box near the pressure switch in a dry, accessible spot. Keep wiring tidy and labeled.

Key takeaway: Clean power and clean splices equal reliability. Choose 2-wire or 3-wire based on application—not habit.

Pressure transients wear out fittings, crack thermoplastics, and unsettle switches. Combat hammer and freeze with simple, robust details.

Install arrestors near quick-acting valves and long runs. Provide an air release or snubber where trapped air can accumulate near high points. In freeze-prone climates, add a drain-down port at the lowest interior point and slope exterior runs to drain. Insulate and heat-trace as needed.

The Sharmas’ irrigation line slammed the house every time the zone shut. We added a tee with a hammer arrestor and adjusted valve closing speeds. Silence returned.

A brass snubber at the pressure switch and gauge dampens spikes and preserves accuracy.

Keep the pitless adapter below frost depth, insulate the well cap wiring penetration, and protect above-grade nipples. Simple measures, long-term payoff.

Install frost-free hydrants with proper drain gravel. Branch them after the tank tee with their own isolation valve.

Key takeaway: Transient and freeze protection are cheap insurance policies that keep systems quiet and intact.

Most “mystery” failures trace back to unverified installs. Commission every system like an airplane checklist.

Record static water level, drawdown under test flow, and final system pressure. Clock a 5-gallon bucket to confirm GPM rating at a hose bib. Compare measured amps to motor nameplate. Verify pressure switch cut-in/cut-out against the gauge. Cross-check against the pump curve: if your total head and flow don’t match expectations, find the restriction or leak.

For the Sharmas, we logged 10.5 GPM at 52 PSI, 7.8 amps on a 1 HP at 230V—right in line with the Myers curve at their TDH. The data confirmed we nailed the staging.

Write down readings. Homeowners and contractors thank you later when diagnosing irrigation changes or filter additions.

Bleed air at the highest fixture. Air pockets cause sputter, corrosion, and inaccurate pressure readings.

Set isolation valves, label branches, and leave a diagram. Serviceable beats “mystery manifold.”

Key takeaway: If you don’t measure it, you’re guessing. A 15-minute verification saves years of frustration.

Efficiency, warranty, and real-world service shape total cost. Myers Predator Plus delivers 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP, backed by an industry-leading 3-year warranty and field serviceable design. In contrast, Grundfos often leans on more complex 3-wire configurations and control systems that raise install and parts costs, while Red Lion’s thermoplastic housings can fatigue under pressure cycles and temperature swings. With Myers Pumps, you get American-built stainless durability, Pentek XE motors, and a full specification library.

On installations, Grundfos has solid engineering but can demand pricier controls and specialized familiarity, which adds time for general contractors. Red Lion is attractive for initial price, but I routinely replace them within 3–5 years in rural service, usually due to case cracking or impeller wear. Myers sits in that professional-grade “install once, monitor occasionally” sweet spot—fewer callbacks, lower energy use, and straightforward part availability through PSAM.

When you count replacements, downtime, and energy savings over a decade, Myers—supported by PSAM’s inventory and my team’s sizing help—delivers the lowest practical cost per gallon to your tap. In my book, that’s worth every single penny.

Start with total dynamic head (TDH): vertical lift from pumping level to the tank, plus pressure (PSI x 2.31 to convert to feet), plus friction loss in pipe/fittings. Then match TDH and desired flow (8–12 GPM for most homes) to the pump curve. A 1/2 HP often covers shallow to mid-depth wells (up to ~150 feet TDH) at 7–10 GPM. A 1 HP handles ~200–300 feet TDH at 10–12 GPM. Consider peak use: showers + laundry + irrigation. The Sharmas, at ~240 feet well with 40/60 PSI, landed on a 1 HP Myers Predator Plus at 10–12 GPM. Don’t size just by well depth; use TDH, not guesswork. At PSAM, I’ll run your numbers—depth, static level, pipe size, and fixtures—and recommend staging to hit BEP. Correct horsepower keeps amps in line and extends motor life.

Most single-family homes run best at 8–12 GPM rating. Larger homes or irrigation demands may require 12–20 GPM. A multi-stage pump achieves higher pressure by stacking impellers in series—each stage adds head. Your selected stages determine shut-off head and operating point on the curve. For 40/60 PSI service (approximately 92–138 feet of head), choose a stage count that supplies your target flow at that head, adding vertical lift and friction. Too few stages and you’ll starve pressure upstairs; too many stages and the motor runs inefficiently or trips overload. I position Myers Predator Plus models so everyday usage sits near BEP—steady pressure, low amp draw, and less heat.

Myers achieves high efficiency through precision engineered composite impellers, Teflon-impregnated staging, and tight internal tolerances that reduce recirculation losses. The Pentek XE motor complements this with high-thrust design and efficient windings, translating hydraulic efficiency into lower electrical consumption. Operated near BEP, you’ll often see 10–20% annual energy savings over generic submersibles. In practice, the combination of smooth staging, stainless wear components, and a motor designed for sustained duty keeps systems like the Sharmas’ running cool and efficient—smoother starts, less cycling, lower bills.

Submersible environments are rough: dissolved minerals, possible acid conditions, and continuous moisture. 300 series stainless steel resists pitting, rusting, and mineral attack far better than cast iron or thermoplastic. Stainless maintains dimensional integrity around seals, bearings, and wear rings, which preserves efficiency and reduces vibration. Over time, cast iron can corrode, increasing friction and opening clearances, which erodes performance. Stainless is also lead-free in the Myers pump-end components—smart for potable water. In Oregon’s varied aquifers, that corrosion resistance was key for the Sharmas’ longevity upgrade.

Abrasives eat pumps. Myers’ self-lubricating impellers use Teflon-impregnated staging to lower friction and resist abrasion. The material is tough, dimensionally stable, and reduces heat at contact surfaces. Combined with a robust intake screen and correct suction velocity, these impellers shed grit without scoring the bowls. You still want to minimize sand: set the pump above the well bottom, use proper screen slots, and avoid overpumping during drought. In the Sharmas’ well, the composite staging prevented the “sandpapered impeller” fate that killed their previous pump.

High-thrust bearings, optimized windings, and tight rotor/stator tolerances give the Pentek XE motor better efficiency and cooler operation under load. Thermal overload protection guards against heat from prolonged run or low voltage, while lightning protection reduces surge damage. On commissioning, I routinely see nameplate amps met or beaten at BEP. That’s why the Sharma system stayed around 7.8 amps at 1 HP—exactly where it should be. Efficient motors don’t just save electricity; they avoid heat stress that shortens winding life.

Many skilled DIYers install a Myers submersible well pump successfully, especially in straight drops with accessible wellheads. However, you must nail the details: correct drop pipe size, pitless adapter plumbingsupplyandmore.com sealing, wire splice kit quality, proper pressure tank sizing, and safe electrical connections. Deeper sets, unusual geology, or code-heavy jurisdictions are best handled by licensed well contractors. If you DIY, call PSAM with your plan—I’ll review your parts list and pump curve selection. The Sharmas handled their trenching and interior manifold; a local contractor set the pump and pitless. Hybrid installs can work well.

A 2-wire well pump has start components integrated in the motor—simpler install, fewer parts, no external control box. A 3-wire well pump uses an external control box with start capacitor/relay, which can aid starts on long runs or when specific diagnostics/servicing is preferred. Cost-wise, 2-wire usually saves $200–$400 upfront and has fewer potential failure points. Performance-wise, both can be excellent when matched to application. For the Sharmas’ 1 HP at 230V, 2-wire simplified install and worked perfectly. For deep sets or unusual loads, I may recommend 3-wire for service access.

Installed correctly and operated within curve, Myers Predator Plus typically delivers 8–15 years. I’ve seen 20–30 years in clean water with generous pressure tank sizing and gentle cycling. Maintenance is basic: annual precharge check, inspect switch and gauge ports, confirm no leak-down at the check valve, flush sediment at the tank tee, and protect against lightning and freeze. If you irrigate heavily, respect the pump’s flow and install a CSV to extend run times. The Sharmas’ system is positioned for 12+ years by design—proper staging, good piping, and anti-cycling measures.

Annually: check tank precharge (2 PSI below cut-in), cycle the isolation valves, confirm cut-in/cut-out vs https://www.plumbingsupplyandmore.com/convertible-shallow-or-deep-well-jet-pump-1-2-hp.html gauge, and inspect for weeping fittings. Every 2–3 years: test flow at a hose bib and compare to baseline, confirm amperage draw, and clear sediment from the pressure switch port. After major storms: check for nuisance trips and consider surge protection. For irrigation-heavy homes: inspect the CSV or flow limiter operation annually. These small tasks keep your Myers pump at BEP and prevent avoidable wear.

Myers’ 3-year warranty outpaces many competitors’ 12–18 months. It covers manufacturing defects and performance issues within normal use. When combined with Made in USA consistency and NSF/UL/CSA certifications, it’s one of the strongest assurances in residential pumping. PSAM streamlines warranty support and stocks replacement parts to minimize downtime. In contrast, budget brands often limit coverage to one year, leaving homeowners exposed after early failures. Warranty isn’t just paperwork—it’s an indicator of engineering confidence and real-world track record.

Factor purchase price, energy, service calls, and replacements. A budget submersible may cost less upfront but often lasts 3–5 years, uses more electricity due to lower efficiency, and requires more service. Over 10 years, that can mean 2–3 replacements plus higher bills. A Myers Predator Plus, staged for BEP with proper piping and a right-sized tank, typically lasts 8–15 years and cuts energy use by 10–20%. The Sharmas’ prior pump failed at 28 months; their Myers setup is projected to deliver a decade or more. Add PSAM’s fast shipping and parts support, and the long-view savings are decisive.

Piping and valves make or break a well system—period. When you pair a Myers Predator Plus—stainless construction, Teflon-impregnated staging, Pentek XE motor, and a 3-year warranty—with the right drop pipe, pitless adapter, check valve placement, pressure tank, and pressure switch layout, you get quiet starts, steady pressure, and years of service. The Sharmas went from weekend water outages to a system that just works. If you want the same, call PSAM. I’ll match your submersible well pump to your TDH, build your fittings list, and ship same-day when seconds count. Myers plus proper piping is the formula—reliable, efficient, and worth every single penny.

Rick’s Picks at PSAM: Predator Plus submersibles, lead-free brass tank tees, stainless pitless adapters, Cycle Stop Valves, full-port ball valves, heat-shrink splice kits, and 62-gallon pressure tanks. Order together and install once.