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The house of the Virgin Mary near Kusadasi is close to the ancient ruins of the city of Ephesus, yet despite the huge popularity of the latter, many people do not take the detour to visit the suspected house where the Mother Mary lived and died. Although the Catholic Church has never confirmed this to be the place of her assumption, three popes have visited, and the Church takes responsibility for running the house through donations and funding.
It is a pilgrimage place for Christians, but the Quran also talks about the Virgin Mary (Meryem Ana) which prompts Muslims to visit as well. Whether this is, the holy place of the Virgin Mary is purely about belief and any hard-core atheist would scoff at the idea yet some people have remarked to me, that they did feel an intense holy presence that will encourage their memories to last a lifetime.
Historians and religious experts widely agree that Saint John, Saint Paul and the Virgin Mary spent time living in the ancient city of Ephesus that these days is one of Turkey’s top visited attractions. However, the discovery of the house came from an unexpected source.
In the early 19th century, a nun named Anne Catherine Emmerich took to her bed where she dreamed intensely. Some sources say it was religious ecstasy while others simply report that she had contracted a fever.
Her dreams and visions included stories of the life of Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary. Noted and published in a book, fifty-seven years after her death; a priest read and followed the descriptions to discover the last resting place of the Virgin Mary.
Anne the nun and the priest had never been to Ephesus and at that time, excavation work had not started so it was not as widely known as it is today, so was it coincidence or the divine truth? The priest believed he had found the house yet it took many years to convince others. These days as well as being a shrine, it is also a chapel and place of worship.
On each occasion, I have driven up winding mountain roads to reach the place. On my first visit, the narrow stretch of road was hair-raising especially if a coach came whizzing around the corner from the opposite direction. Thankfully, in later years, road conditions have improved and after paying the entrance fee, visitors arrive at the car park.
Walking past the souvenir shops and café, the first landmark is the baptism pool and immediately after is the seating area for monthly religious services and then the house comes into view. The humble appearance of plain stone bricks and a small size makes it seem insignificant.
While the bottom half of the house is the original building, the top half was restored with an effort to maintain as much of the original appearance as possible. Walking through the metal door, visitors pick up a candle before proceeding to the main area where a statue of the Virgin Mary stands.
Naturally as a place of worship, silence is expected and a conservative dress code is in place. While a religious person may spend a considerable amount of time in the chapel, my agnostic beliefs mean I walk through quickly and pass through the green and well-kept gardens to reach the three taps of holy water.
Visitors take a sip from any of the metal taps and make a wish. Local urban legends say that each tap resembles an aspect of life. One reflects wealth, another signifies health, and the last one is fertility. They are not labeled but whichever one you drink from, that gift will come your way.
Lastly, at the end of the tour, visitors reach the wishing wall, a popular concept known all over Turkey and also used on trees. While tying a personal possession such as a napkin, handkerchief or piece of paper, make a wish and it will come true.
With the taps and wishing wall, it is natural for any religious person to come away feeling lucky and blessed in life. Personally, I do not believe in either but the house of the Virgin Mary is a quiet serene place and it lends weight to the story that Mary spent part of her life in the ancient city of Ephesus.
I am not religious but have visited on 3 occasions and enjoyed the time I spent there, even it was just a reflection of the peace and quiet. If you visit Ephesus, take the time out for a two-hour detour and visit the house of the Virgin Mary. Then come back and let me know if you felt the holy presence.
Hi. I'm Natalie, a freelance travel blogger and writer specializing in the country of Turkey. I love hot summer days, historical sites and coffee.
I am a catholic and visited Mary’s house, i always have a content feeling when i am in religious surroundings I left a message on the wishing wall in September, whether coincidence i don’t know but I don’t think so my wish did come true in November, it will always hold a special place in my heart. I will hopefully return one day to say thank you in person.
I visited the House of Mary a few years ago and have to say that it was the most peaceful and moving spot I have ever visited. I felt pure peace and tranquility. I would highly recommend it. I am a Catholic.
Dear Natalie: good morning and thank you very much for a very informative and entertaining description of the supposed residence of the Virgin Mary. For an avowed agnostic you have a very respectful attitude towards religion. Pleae keep enlightening us with your inner spirit and your worldly travails. A big kiss. Au revoir!
A wonderful story Bron – I met a nun there who was French. Did you know her? Think it was 2005 or 2006
I lived in Selcuk for 8.5 years and visited this place many times.
I am neither Roman Catholic nor Orthodox so I could not relate to the outright Mary – worship that happens there at all.
The first service I attended there, I was actually very shocked by that.
At Christmas, for most of those years, it was the only place short of Izmir that had any sort of Service so we would go.
However, as a protestant, it was “an education” !
I studied Reformation history but had been to RC services before – I used to attend Rosary with an old Italian Roman Catholic lady whose family wouldn’t go, so I’d had some exposure to this phenomenon before.
But this was another level altogether.
Jesus was barely mentioned – except in the context of being Mary’s son – and the expected Christmas caols and hymns were instead all worshipping Mary eg “Hail Regina” which, as a protestant, I found pretty mind-blowing.
But I got used to it. That’s the sort of place it is.
We sometimes had tshirt-wearing “Marian” customers at our hotel – tourists who spent all their annual leave visiting Mary-shrines around Europe and the Middle East – and of course “Mereyemana” was one of them.
Despite the religious culture shock, I always REALLY liked the staff.
I think everyone who knew him pretty much adored dear Father Tarcy (from Goa) and lovely Sister Antoinette (from America) was a sweetie. She once stopped me in the middle of the saturday market to give me a medal of Mary which i still have. She said I needed it’s help and she was praying for me. I wore it for a long time. She had a very thread-bare cloak – even in winter. I used to worry about her austerity and poverty. Although skinny, Father Tarcy didn’t evoke that concern in me.
There was an open invitation at our hotel that any of the Mereyemana staff could use it (loos, drinks, shelter, rest etc) when in town (typically during Saturday market) and Father Tarcy did.
He was gorgeous – i didn’t know anyone who didn’t like him. Skinny as a pole and very spry ! Brimming with love and acceptance of everyone.
He wouldnt give me communion though – ever so nicely – bc I wasn’t a confirmed RC – and “the Holy Father said so”. But he’d bless me instead. We understood each other ?.
I loved how they loved it so much.
They were from religious orders devoted to Mary and this was as good as it got for them.
I could see how they just revelled in being staff there.
Whenever any of them needed anything dental / medical, as I was a nurse familiar with local services, he’d always call me for advice.
LOTS of lovely memories of him (and them all).
He had a stroke and died (in Italy) after I left.
No, no holy presence. None whatsoever.
But i found the story of its discovery fascinating and am aware of much more detail than was written in this article.
All rather spooky and intrigiuing !
As I learned more and more I went from being 100% sceptical (very easy to be after studing reformation history re the authenticity of alleged relics and sites) to being able to believe that – historically alone – it is possible it could be an authentic site of where Mary once resided.
I enjoyed explaining the dozen or so factors as to why to tourists, most of whom who were completely unaware – many of whom decided to visit afterwards – and enjoyed the thrill & excitement of the Mary-pilgrims.
It is indeed a pretty site.
The house is tiny – literally a single room.
It is high in the mountains but don’t sit in the window seats for the coaches, as they drive up the mountain roads and you should be fine. Once there, is no fear of heights. Just beauty!
thank you for all the good information. we will be traveling to turkey next year on a mediterranean cruise. How many miles up is the house of the virgin mary? I don’t care for heights. Thank you. Nancy, Michigan
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I did not like the road either Erica. It made me feel very unsafe
I love this place…it is so peaceful for me when I go. We did see a Nun but she was praying. I also fill up a few bottles of water to take back with me…….just the road going up the mountain freaks me out…..not use to those type of roads so high up. Thanks again for the great post.
We met one of the nuns as well Carolyn. She was so friendly and loving. It was the highlight of the trip for me.
We visited many years and another life time ago on our way to Ephesus. I can remember the cool serenity on a baking hot August day.
There was a young nun singing Ave Maria as we walked through. A spine-tingling moment which made distant religious roots from a far off time and land tangible. A few words from an old hymn we used to sing at school have just gone through my mind – “And did those feet in ancient times….”
Vago – I am not sure how you missed it either. Three times! What a shame. Hope you get to go there soon!
I’m not sure how in the world I’ve missed going there in the three times I’ve been to Ephesus…next time I will go for sure. Thank you Natalie. A great post as always.
It is often small memories like your experience that make the biggest impact on us Gloria. glad you got chance to see it
My son and I visited the site many years ago . We were alone and were greeted by the delicate fragrance of roses as we neared the statue of the Blessed Mother. We were in awe of this Holy experience and will hold that moment in our hearts forever.
Glad that you made it Lina – so many people miss this place out and it is a shame
Visiting the “home of the Holy Mother” presumed to be her domain in her remaining years of her life” was the highlight of our travel to Eastern Europe . It was a wonderful awesome trip. Getting inside the house gave me goosebumps, a experience in my life beyond words. I am just thankful to have the opportunity to come to Turkey and visit this place. I also drank from the fountain believed to be a source of miraculous healing and I sure do believe in faith that it does. In fact, I filled up some bottles and brought back home with me to California..
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