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I can only think of one other European country where baths play such an important part in the lives of its citizens — Hungary. Those who have not been to the Gellert baths in Budapest or any of the smaller ones throughout that country are surely missing one of the great world experiences! The two major baths or terme in ancient Rome were the baths of Diocletian now transformed into a national museum and a church and the baths of Caracalla now an open-air theatre. Within the bowels of this hill are hot thermal waters with special medicinal properties which, since mediaeval or even Roman? Perhaps the most famous of cure-seekers is the great sixteenth century French essayist Montaigne who wrote extensively about his experiences here, greatly praised the waters and finally found solace in them from his pains. Of these programmes I have only tried the amazing mud baths. The healing waters of Bagni di Lucca, which flows out at a temperature of 54 degrees from their main source deep within the bowels of the volcanic hill continue to have a major world reputation for their extraordinary regenerative and healing powers. This morning we will again visit one of the two grottoes. Entering into their natural sauna atmosphere the body begins to sweat profusely. After twenty minutes one is called out if they have not forgotten you! How that first year in Longoio seemed so much longer when compared to this which has flown so quickly before us. And, no doubt, will speed by even faster? Time seems to fly at an almost exponential rate the older we get. Is it because new experiences become matter-of-. Is it because we gradually do fewer things with our lives? Is it perhaps some perceptive function in the ageing brain? Who knows? Many things have changed this year. Even more things have changed since I first settled here in Train communication, however, has become worse with the same weary rolling stock that I first encountered eight years ago. Others are waiting to get a decent selling price for their houses — something which, in my opinion may not happen for a very long time! In my own experience I have lost ten friends to this trend. In addition to the continuing economic difficulties the area is now hit by ecological ones: been a year of increased seismic activity , with a particularly scary earthquake tremor in January, and the abnormally heavy rainfall has created landslides and flooding throughout the region. A great man from South Africa has gone from us this year but another great man from South America is now with us. Let us hope that the never-ending worries the Italian people are having to bear will not turn them from their naturally solar and friendly character to that darkness which finds no exit to light and love. The end result would be a continuously renewing process applied to Bagni di Lucca and its hinterland which like so many other parts of crisis-stricken Italy sorely needs a way forwards which does not present impossible targets but which relies instead on existing time-tested resources. The beauty of the project is that the means to carry it forwards is all there — there is no need to build new structures or find new metaphorical oil-fields: just the will to fully realise what is there today and what is truly possible in the foreseeable future. It was good to meet up with Carla and with other persons interested in the project, and several points above were discussed. For example, with regard to no. Money is forthcoming but only if the will to use it appropriately and efficiently is forthcoming too. Bagni di Lucca is a complicated area in terms of its population. Permanent residents present only a fraction of the total population one sees in summer due to its largely holidaying flavour. Yet there are many permanent local occupations which could either be re-instituted or developed. The above list points the way forwards especially with regard to cashmere goats and pellet manufacture. You are cordially invited to the exhibition which will remain open until January 6 th when the whole spa closes down for the winter period. It was probably written in when both his friend Lucy, Countess of Bedford , and his own daughter Lucy Donne died. Certainly, in my experience, more people, especially the older ones that I know, seem to shed off their mortal coil at this time of year at an alarming rate. After the entombment our parish priest cut this lonely figure as he walked home. Re-reading the book I find it a touchingly melancholic testimony of past times by a lady who had seen nine decades. Now that she is gone I have only this book to remind me of the life of a local person whose horizons and sensitivities extended well beyond the common spheres. Here is one poem picked at random from the slim volume:. Returning home, that late afternoon and evening were marked by the most beautiful colours I have seen this month of December. Gazing in this timeless landscape I, too, felt transported by unfathomable emotions. Or are they? Certainly, the Walt Disney versions of the two immortal stories display greater divergences for Pinocchio than for Alice, making him a less objectionable character than the original, perhaps to satisfy an Anglo-Saxon market. It must also be remembered that in the original Pinocchio version the puppet came to a sticky end by being executed. No blue-haired fairy had entered the story then! I suspect that the different ways these books are supposedly received in the two countries has more to do with adult attitudes than with the children readers. Alice is forever questioning their principles and actions: why should she have her head chopped off? Why do Tweedledum and Tweedledee have to fight? Pinocchio has become irremediably embedded in Italian converse. Emphasis on education was essential for a young Italy to mould itself into a modern state —to create Italians literally speaking the same language and not their local dialect for the first time. The Pinocchio Park in Collodi, often slated for not being an up-to-date theme park, should rather be regarded as a memorial to the author and his most famous character. This allusion was acknowledged in its festival with the same name, earlier this year at Bagni di Lucca and organized by its indefatigable resident journalist, Marco Nicoli. It would be a most interesting debate! Incidentally, it was during our first Christmas season here in our local Teatro Accademico put on a lively Pinocchio musical from which I took these photographs:. The Christmas carols known to most Italians do not make for a large list. This is a pity as I am quite sure there are some very attractive carols to be found in all regions of Italy. In particular, I am attracted to the zampognari tradition when shepherd came down from their pastures to praise the baby Jesus with their bagpipe tunes. I have found no local shepherds practicing their bagpipes while watching over their flocks today although I have come across a local duo who will play upon request and special events. It is the arm rather than the mouth that is used to pump air into the wind-sack. PS The sunset yesterday was particularly poignant for me, especially as I came home to the entrails of Bianchina, my free-range rabbit doe, eaten by a hungry fox while I was away and leaving three just-born mewling kits name for baby rabbits which our local friend from Mobbiano has taken away to see if they will feed from his doe who also has given birth. Temperatures at Longoio, which is feet above sea level, rose above twenty degrees and I was actually sunbathing! A sharp shock awaited me when I descended into Bagni at a height of feet above sea level at 3 PM to see something of the Christmas festivities. It was rather cold since the sun had already set behind the hills. On the Circolo dei Forestieri staircase was a photographic exhibition on the famous local industry, now a shadow of what it once was, the figurinai or plaster-of-Paris statuette makers. Puccini, basking in the glory of the triumph of his La Boheme in Paris was visibly moved when he met a boy figurinaio outside Notre-Dame. Inside the circolo the crib exhibition was rather more limited than those in previous years which had included examples from as far afield as Caltagirone in Sicily. Yesterday, however, I got the feeling that Christmas is becoming an increasingly hard time for families to enjoy. The economic crisis has now lasted over five years and shows few signs of ending. Christmas festivities have definitely arrived at Bagni di Lucca. Quite apart from the cheerful street lights and the shop-window dressings, there are also a variety of events planned, especially for the week-ends. Today, Saturday, the Christmas markets will start up and the first of the living cribs will be presented in the square in front of the circolo dei forestieri restaurant. This is the doctrine promulgated by Pope Pius IX in that the Virgin Mary was conceived without original sin — not that Christ was born immaculately from her as some people mistakenly think. The plot revolves around handsome Antonio played by Mastroianni who is considered the perfect lover. But all is not what it seems…. The Bagni di Lucca theatre season has always been present from winter to around spring since I first came to live here and I am glad that, even in these difficult times, it continues to be so…. Incidentally, the weather remains fine as these photos from a walk the other day confirm:. Today, another illustrious person still lives in one of these villas together with his beloved cat Alessio. I try to visit Dr Franklin Samuel Stych on a regular basis. Sam, as he likes to be called by his friends, is now clearly not as active as he once was but his mind remains amazingly alert and he is one of the best people I know to have a really good conversation with. Sadly, he never knew his father who was killed in action in the bloodbath of the battle of the Somme when 60, soldiers died on the first day. His first job was keeping accounts for a shopkeeper. Sam saw service in the Second World War in the Royal Army Ordnance Corps responsible for both supply and repair of weapons, armoured vehicles and other military equipment, ammunition and army clothing and was stationed in North Africa and Italy Naples where his love for this country grew immensely. Indeed, he almost married a seventeen-year-old Neapolitan girl with, strangely for those parts, blonde hair. Could she have dyed it? Sam quizzes. When Sam returned to the UK in he also returned to his great interest in libraries and bibliography, becoming a senior staff member in the municipal libraries. In he obtained his MA and moved to the Sheffield library services. Sam retired forty-two years ago and, when given the chance to acquire a residence in Italy through his connection with Ian Greenlees, the director of the British institute in Florence, made the move to Bagni di Lucca in with gladness. Sam often remarks to me that had he known he would have lived to be the age he is now he would not have retired so early! There are several significant works by Sam, which have greatly contributed to a deeper understanding between Britain and Italy. Some of these books are:. Sam has received several honours in recognition of his work. Among these he is commendatore of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. Through his time here Sam has become the last remaining Englishman to link the present generation of residents and newcomers in the area with the classic coterie of cultivated English gentlemen who included such names as Ian Greenlees, Robin Chanter and, last but not least, Harold Acton. He is important not just for his great bibliographic works, not just for Bagni di Lucca, not just for Italo-English relationships but also for his quality of character. Completely self-sufficient and independent until a couple of years ago Sam still liked to visit the country where he was born and, indeed, only completed a successful journey there just a month before his celebration dinner. Sam is an example to us all of kindness, scholarliness, decency, hospitality, courtesy and warmth, qualities which are enduring and which, all too often, are unfortunately lacking in the age we live now. Here is Sam and Alessio the other day:. I love visiting people who have known other times and other ages — they have so much to teach us! Fifty years ago, on October 9 , Longarone , a town and comune on the banks of the Piave in the province of Belluno, in North-East Italy , was completely destroyed in a terrible event known as the Vajont dam disaster A colossal landslide plunged into the lake, formed by the dam situated above Longarone, and forced fifty million cubic metres of water over its top. I mention Longarone, not only because of the fiftieth anniversary of the tragedy, but because it is twinned with our comune of Bagni di Lucca and has been ever since the then mayor of Bagni di Lucca and now its poet laureate Mario Lena, offered help and accommodation to victims of the disaster. Friendship ties increased and, within a few months, the two communities were officially twinned. Over the years this twinning has grown from strength to strength. Indeed, as one enters Bagni di Lucca the twinning connection can clearly be read on the road signs. Although the twinning was started up as a result of a very generous contribution by Bagni di Lucca in helping out a greatly-stricken community there is not really very much similarity between the two towns. Longarone is not a spa town while Bagni di Lucca is. Longarone is an agricultural community while Bagni di Lucca largely depends on its summer visitors. Longarone does not have an entertainments and gameing past like Bagni di Lucca. Of course, twinning need not only be with one town and certainly not with a town with similarities. There may not much resemblance between Glasgow and Barga but the twinning was inspired by the number of Barga emigrants to the Scottish city during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. I would suggest that Bagni di Lucca could expand its twinning to include another town more comparable to it in development and atmosphere. My choice goes to Llandrindod Wells in the Welsh county of Powys which we know rather well having partly lived in Wales for a time. The administrative centre of Powys, Llandrindod Wells was developed as a spa town in the nineteenth century, when the healing qualities of the local spring waters attracted many famous visitors Elgar — c. Puccini in Bagni di Lucca — Tennyson c. Pascoli to the area resulting in an economic affluence with the building of many hotels and guest houses — rather like Bagni di Lucca in fact. Again, like Bagni di Lucca, Llandrindod Wells suffered a decline in the twentieth century, only to be revalued in the twenty-first. Llandrindod Wells has an amateur dramatics festival in May at its theatre, the Albert Hall, which attracts groups from all over the British Isles and achieves high performance standards. Llandrindod Wells hosts annual scrambler bike trials in June and a walking festival. Some of these kinds of events are, of course, well-known here and Bagni di Lucca certainly does have its festivals but why not foster one which pays homage to its hey-day as the resort for the crowned heads of Europe and where people wear nineteenth —century dress? Last but not least, both Bagni di Lucca and Llandrindod Wells are surrounded by the most gorgeous hill and mountain country with gushing streams, thick woods, rocks, great path itineraries and plenty of wild flora and fauna. That certainly must attract both communities to each other. Anyway, this is just a suggestion. I feel that, with the resurgence of spa towns throughout Europe after a period of decline and lethargy, Bagni di Lucca could twin itself with at least one other of the same ilk e. This is an excellent introduction to the bibliography relating to this country and, although published almost forty years ago, is in the opinion of many still highly relevant and useful Boccaccio in English: a bibliography of editions, adaptations, and criticism. Sam devoted twenty years of his retirement here in Bagni di Lucca to the creation of a comprehensive annotated bibliography of 2, items by Boccaccio, adapted from Boccaccio, or about Boccaccio. His material was edited and prepared for publication by his former student, Michael Buckland , at the School of Information Management and Systems. This seminal work remains the most formidable tool for any research on Boccaccio. Nicolao Granucci is an immensely intriguing figure in sixteenth century Lucca. Soldier of fortune, prisoner, cobbler and novella writer he was also a visitor to Bagni di Lucca. Pinocchio in Gran Bretagna e Irlanda. Create a free website or blog at WordPress. Subscribe Subscribed. Sign me up. 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