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We had always been told that the Peloponnese was one of the most beautiful parts of Greece so we checked it out for ourselves in May of this year. Packing up the bicycles on our car, we departed on the ferry from Kissamos port in western Crete and arrived 8 hours later in the old port of Gytheio on the Peloponnese. It was an easy drive to our first destination, Monemvasia , a medieval fortified town built on the lower and upper sites of the huge rock that juts out of the sea off the coast. In its prime 15 th century it was home to 50, and was an autonomous city-state with a lower town working folks and an upper town aristocracy. Today, the lower town is restored and within the walls of the castle are quaint cobbled streets winding around to small homes, pristine churches, Venetian architecture marked by the famous St. The upper town is in ruin except for the beautiful Agia Sofia 13 th century but sadly the ascending path up to the town was closed due to restoration purposes. In the morning, we rode our bikes across the causeway to the West gate entrance where we parked them and continued on foot into the fortress walls. We spent most of the day snooping around old Monemvasia, stopping at the museum, chatting with the locals, perusing through the little shops and finally enjoying a fresh fish dinner at a terraced taverna called Matoula. Originally, the first capital of modern Greece, Nafplio is now a popular destination for visitors to the Peloponnese as well as Athenians looking for an easy weekend excursion away from the big city. The medieval town was protected by three fortresses, the Bourtzi, a pint-sized castle in the middle of the harbor, the Akronafplia oldest part of the city and the impressive Palamidi fortress which crowns the cliffs above Nafplio and dominates the city. The last two fortresses are both are accessible by car but more fun on foot or bicycle. But turning a blind eye to this graffiti-covered weed-infested concrete beast , we continued peddling up and were rewarded with stellar views over the city and the Argos bay. The view here was rivaled easily by the other famous fortress and the highest point in Nafplio, the Palamidi Fortress which was a huge Venetian citadel housing seven self-sufficient forts built in the early 18 th century. Energetic walkers can access the fortress by trudging up the stone steps on the west side but we defaulted to biking the ascent — still quite a workout. Another surprising discovery was the well-used path that skirted along the coast around the base of the Palamidi fortress and ended at the expansive yet secluded beach of Karathona. It was a beautiful 4K late afternoon ride with the waning sun reflecting low over the sea on our right and the high cliffs of Palamidi glowing above us over our left shoulders. An easy 45 minute drive east from Nafplio took us to the archeological site of Epidavros, a therapeutic and religious center of the ancient world 6 th century BC mostly famous for its magnificent theater. Renown for its near-perfect acoustics, it is still used today for music and theater productions including the annual summer festival of ancient Greek drama. We visited this magical site in the cool of the late afternoon. A couple of small school groups hastily and loudly blew through finally leaving us with a peaceful silence that was permeated occasionally by the sounds of the birds and breeze playing in the expansive space of the amphitheater. The Mycenaean civilization dominated Greece during the late Bronze age BC and this particular settlement boasts walls made of huge stones that encircle an enormous hilltop city of palaces, treasures and tombs for the ruling class. Temple of Zeus presides over Nemea vineyards. This site was all but deserted when we arrived and as we walked around the ancient stones and columns it seemed to be a sleeping giant now forgotten by the archeological community. But the lack of crowds was pleasing and we enjoyed imagining St Paul walking the streets, working with his friends and preaching every Sabbath at the meeting place. It was here that he wrote the epistle to the Romans, founded the Corinthian church and was hauled into the court to defend himself and the gospel he preached Acts Last stop: the Corinthian Canal , a deep cut through the narrow Isthmus of Corinth that once connected the Peloponnese with mainland Greece. Construction of this canal actually was started by Emperor Nero but was not completed until around Four miles long and 26 feet in depth, it now serves as a passageway connecting the Gulf of Corinth and the Saronic Gulf in the Aegean Sea as well as a hot spot for bungee bridge jumpers. We boarded the ferry in Pireas and settled into our cabin about 9pm. Wish we lived closer. Come to San Diego some time. Big hugs and double European kisses! Hi Richard and Melanie. Not sure I have your current email. I wanted to talk to you about bike riding this summer. Richard, can you email me? This is Hugh. Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. Email Address:. Sign me up! Cretan Chronicles. Skip to content. Palamidi Fortress — Nafplio. Biking the causeway to Monemvasia. Monemvasia lower town. West gate into Monemvasia. The Bourtzi fortress. View of Palamidi fortress over Nafplio. Seacoast pathway. Bouganvilla street — Nafplio. Epidavros theater. Nafplio port. Syntagma Square — Nafplio. Ancient Corinth. Corinth Canal. Home to Souda Bay, Crete. Share this: Email Facebook Twitter Print. Like Loading About Melanie A Crane Quote: 'The best journeys ask questions that in the beginning you never thought to ask. I've discovered that both cooking and travel can be messy at times but the risks can have some amazing results. The same goes for life lived with passion. This entry was posted in Biking , Mainland Greece and tagged archeology , Bourtzi , Corinth , fortresses , Palamidi , theater , vineyards. Bookmark the permalink. June 17, at pm. Hugh Duffy says:. June 28, at pm. Leave a comment Cancel reply. Email Address: Sign me up! Join other subscribers. Search for:. Follow Blog via Email Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. Email Address: Follow Join other subscribers. Follow Cretan Chronicles on WordPress. Create a free website or blog at WordPress. Comment Reblog Subscribe Subscribed. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website. Design a site like this with WordPress. Nick Daskalakis on The Critters of Crete.

Season 2 - Ionian Islands, Peloponnese and Argolic Gulf

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We spent four days there and then it was our turn to splash on the 14th. We remained in the marina in a wet berth for a few days before finally setting sail on the 16th of May. One day we were having a late lunch there and who should we run into but Kiwi mates Anna and Hamish, also cruising here on their beautiful Fountain Pajot, Aratui. It was fortuitous to discover that both of us were heading in the same direction - south around the Peloponnesse - so we ended up sailing in tandem at certain points and having some outstanding adventures together. The raised bridge at Lefkada is the gateway to the southern Ionian islands and this is where we began. Once through here the usual route is to tour the islands Levkas, Kefalonia Zakinthos etc, etc and then use the Corinth Canal to take you through to the Saronic Gulf and close to Athens, but this passage has been closed for some time due to major land slips. It is apparently due to open in July of this year but we would end up taking the long way around and in so many ways it was a blessing. We started sailing and immediately were rewarded with a pleasant 10 knot sea breeze that saw us sailing like a train down Levkas Island towards Skorpios Island, formerly owned by Aristotle Onassis and now owned by a Russian heiress. From there we cruised on and enjoyed great overnight anchors on Levkas Island at Vlikho, Porto Atheni, successful stern to! The latter was where our first wee drama occurred with initially anchoring out in the bay, getting blown away toward a breakwater wall, and subsequently electing to tie up on the town quay. From Lefkas we sailed south to the island of Ithaca in quite a strong 20 knot gusting 25 breeze. We found this in the wee town of Vathi on Ithaca and ended up staying there for a couple of nights until the wind forecast eased. While there, the locals were celebrating a holiday commemorating the unification of the Ionian Islands, combined with a saint day. We witnessed a solemn service at a tomb site dedicated to lost Ithaca citizens during WW2, a marching band, speeches from town dignitaries and Greek dancing. From Ithaca we decided to sail over to the small island of Kalamos where new Scottish friends Sally and Fergus on sailing yacht Fior were. They recommended we tie up at Kalamos on Kalamos where they were , which is exactly what we did. He also owns the big taverna in town so the loyalty you feel for his kindness gets rewarded when you dine there. We had an excellent meal there with Sally and Fergus and can heartily recommend it as a place to visit. Upon our arrival and successful tie up, Gavin and I immediately walked over to the local beach, about a 15 minute walk away, where the water was crystal clear for a swim. During that time, one, or some , of the hundreds of stray cats that live on Kalamos boldly walked up our gangway, onto the boat and helped themselves to some apple pastry. What a mess we found when we came back! The next day we sailed back to Lefkas and had a fun rendezvous with Anna and Hamish in a beautiful place called Filiatro Bay. Waiata and Aratui were anchored side by side in the most pristine bay with a brilliant white sand beach that begged a drone shot. The water was crystal clear and the only draw back were the few jellyfish floating about. We dined with Hamish and Anna onboard Aratui that night which was very delicious and special. We were due in the Argolic Gulf in early June to collect family and being late in May, we realised time was fast running out. We chose to make a dash for Zakinthos, the southernmost of the Ionian Islands. There were a few key spots we wanted to visit, including, but not limited to, the Blue Grotto and Shipwreck Bay. It was mind blowing to motor past the blue caves and then, later that day, by some stroke of good fortune, we ended up as one of three boats anchored overnight in Shipwreck Bay. Nestled deep on a white sand beach in a narrow cove with the most striking sea colour, lies the rusted remains of an old ship, MV Panayiotis. But as we arrived late afternoon, their busy period was pretty much over and so we were well placed to find a home for the night. Another fun coincidence was that one of the other two boats anchored here belonged to a young Kiwi family from Kohimarama in Auckland, two adults and their two babies, 3 years old and 15 months. Our taxi driver took us to Olympia, waited for us to tour the site for about 90 minutes, then took us to a Vodafone shop and a grocery store on the return, all for 80 euro which felt quite reasonable. It was interesting to watch a dig in progress and archeologists doing their thing in certain sections. I found the wine cellar of course and Gav felt right at home at the Temple for Zeus. The next few days found us cruising south making good distances in semi-tandem with Hamish and Anna. They too had people to collect on the other side, in their case on Milos, and we were heading up to Porto Heli in the Argolic Gulf. It was leaving Porto Kayio where we had our first major drama on Waiata. This error would prove to be our undoing the next day. We needed to pull it down which is a job for two. It was now blowing about 20 knots and we were fairly well out to sea. It was noisy, the sail was flapping and we had to shout to hear one another. My role was to ease the halyard and Gav was pulling the Gennaker down. We stopped the motors and put the boat into the wind. Gav put on his wetsuit and initially used a mask and snorkel to assess the damage. Getting it off the prop turned out to be fairly easy. Hauling it out of the water took both of us using every ounce of strength we had, but we did it. I think we were both just stoked to have retrieved it and the lessons learned well implanted. The torn Gennaker is currently in Piraeus getting assessed and repaired, a costly, irritating mistake, yet full of learning. We had a night at anchor at Elafonisis with Hamish and Anna and in the morning went walking on the famous Simos Beach. Our walk was very early and thus there was not a soul around but we did see quite a bit of plastic rubbish and party aftermath tubs of empty beers of the day before which Gavin and Hamish cleaned up like the good global citizens they are. The next day we went around what is considered the Cape Horn of Greece, that is, the bottom of the Peloponnese. In fact, it was so calm and hot at points, that we stopped the boat mid-ocean to have a swim. During our late evening climb we were given an added bonus of seeing some Greek newlyweds having their wedding photos done professionally with drones and a full team. Walking down is a bit slippery on the ancient polished rocks but we were rewarded for our efforts once we made it, scoring pretty much the best table overlooking the sea at one of the great restaurants in the old town. We spent one night out in the harbour and then entered Marina Porto Heli in order to wash and provision the boat for our guests. My brother Bob, his wife Dina and their two adult children Marie and Jack were coming on board for 5 days. It was super gratifying seeing young Jack foiling by time they left and Gavin also making huge progress, in fact, foiling for a long spell before bailing. We had a beautiful overnight anchor at Spetses, a solus position in a private cove we later learned is off limits in summer. We also had a couple nights on Ermione and it was here we decided to ferry across to Hydra. One bonus on Hydra, also spelt Idra , there are no cars, just donkeys! I wanted so much to greet and thank him for everything, to fall at his feet in gratitude - for each and every album and song. We love this boat! That and the lack of so much weed on the ground as was found in Croatia has really made a huge difference to our safe and secure anchors. We still may buy a new anchor in Turkey but the jury is out on that for the moment. This boat is a sailing boat. To be honest, much of our first month has been sailing to weather not by choice and unlike other catamarans, this boat can perform most excellently in those circumstances, largely due to the design weight , self tacking headsail and dagger boards. So many times we just shake our heads and say - WHOA! We really like belonging to this family! First day of Waiata being splashed at Cleopatra Marina, Season 2 begins. Dona White.

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