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Be the first to know about new stories, special gatherings and exclusive invitations for our community. The ghostly ruins, covered in monumental statues and stunning mosaics, were once as lively as Mykonos is today. Surprisingly few visitors to Mykonos make it across the choppy straits to the island of Delos. The mythical birthplace of Apollo, god of sunlight, and his twin sister Artemis, goddess of moonlight, Delos is the mystical talisman around which the Cyclades islands revolve. The political epicenter of the ancient Greek world, it was a religious sanctuary but also a major trading post, a tax haven but also a cosmopolitan melting pot. In its heyday, this little island just 5 kilometers long and 1. Each group of settlers had their own Agora part market, part gathering place, part forum for civic engagement and worshipped their own deities. Over five thousand spectators once thronged the marble amphitheater to attend festivals, plays, and athletic contests on Delos. Jewelers polished precious stones in their workshops and artists fashioned the giant statues and dazzling mosaics that adorned the temples and villas. Until the s, Mykonos was nothing more than a stop-over for archaeologists, academics, and spiritual pilgrims en route to Delos. Barren, windswept, isolated Mykonos was a backwater. There were no roads, only dirt tracks; there was no electricity, apart from a single generator that often sputtered to a halt; running water was a rare luxury. Greek society columnists Zachos Hatzifotiou and Eleni Vlachou eulogized the island, unleashing a wave of Athenian socialites and shipowners, musicians and movie stars, who made Mykonos their summer playground. They look after you with pleasure, let you dress and undress as you please, but that tolerance has nothing to do with coldness or indifference. On the contrary, even the poorest villagers know how to make you feel welcome, with their simple, natural graciousness. The first bars on the harbor appeared because the night boat never showed up on time. Local fishermen, farmers and builders, endowed with superhuman strength and supercharged charisma, became pioneers of the tourist industry: building the first villas and hotels, taking visitors to far-flung beaches on their fishing boats, or transporting them to church festivals on their donkeys — wild festivities that lasted for three days and nights, whipped up by local musicians on violins and bagpipes. Photo by Lizy-Manola. Though deeply religious, the Mykonians were remarkably unpuritanical, their rituals rooted in paganism. In the swinging sixties, while mini-skirts and marijuana were shunned on other Greek islands, on Mykonos you could wear miniskirts, hot pants, or nothing at all. The caves between Agia Anna and Paranga, where Scorpios is located now, were the makeshift homes of naked hippies, who summered on Mykonos and wintered in Kathmandu. These free-wheeling nomads were drawn to the metaphysical magnetism of Delos, as well as the open-minded, life-loving spirit of the Mykonians. Each clan had their own beaches and bars, but the boundaries were fluid, and everyone was equal under the scorching sun. Celebrities, fashion designers, and supermodels squeezed into the bar to watch the legendary drag shows. Naturally, fun-loving uninhibited Mykonos also lured the gay crowd. The s heralded a flourish of disco and drag queens. Gay bars sprung up in the whitewashed alleys of Hora, where a parade of Eartha Kitt, Barbra Streisand, and Diana Ross impersonators strutted in platform heels. And I don't mean with pot. By the natives. Not in Mykonos, however. Gaultier, Mugler, Valentino and McQueen were regular fixtures. Grace Jones stalked the dance floors of Remezzo and Nine Muses, legendary nightclubs on the old harbor of Mykonos. Nine Muses was an old warehouse with no roof; after working up a sweat on the dance floor, patrons would dive into the harbor to cool off. Queer culture and sexual experimentation have thrived on Mykonos for thousands of years. Photo credit: Pantelos Kourtakis. You had to step over couples making love on the beach. Even the military dictatorship in Greece, from to , did not stop the party. But the undercurrent of mystical energy, the cathartic sense of freedom, and the sense of belonging to a nomadic tribe are still thrillingly alive. X Join our mailing list Be the first to know about new stories, special gatherings and exclusive invitations for our community. Thank you! Your submission has been received! The Spirit of Mykonos. This confined and at the same time infinite world of islands appears to be at the heart of the universe. Words: Rachel Howard. This website uses cookies. If that's okay with you click on continue or learn more.

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