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The bright pastel coloured buildings were exactly as I'd imagined. After hours of time researching and staring at whimsical photos of the buildings that trickle down the hillsides of the Ligurian coastline, sparkling in the summer sun against the Mediterranean turquoise water, I was enchanted by the views before me. Alongside about other sweaty tourists who were bustling to get to the exact same lookout point that I was, for an extreeeemely similar photo they could post to Instagram later that day. Like so I'm not sure when Cinque Terra became an overcrowded mess, but goddamn is that place horrendous in the peak heat of the day in summer season. With literal train carriage-loads full of tourists unloading into the adorably cobbled streets to pour through the villages, wreaking havoc and noise across the small Italian towns, it can feel like a miniature Disneyland, particularly in Vernazza. We were relieved to have booked the perfect accommodation a short hop away from all that madness. There's the right amount of authentic Italian nonna's still living in Rio Maggiore, Manorolo and Monterosso to keep the rustic villages feeling authentic, but to stay within the villages themselves seems a huge - expensive - pain in the ass. The Cinque Terra are as the name might suggest a succession of 5 villages along the coastline of the Italian region of Levanto. Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso and their surrounding areas make up the national park of the Cinque Terra. The area is beautifully hilly and green - the rolling hillsides perfectly placed for winemaking and hiking. Where the hills end they become dramatic cliff side drop-offs into the water of the Mediterranean Sea. In short, it is a paradise of landscape and brightly coloured architectural styles that lure hundreds of thousands of people to visit every year. When booking our accommodation, I knew any one of the main 5 villages would be popular and probably more expensive to stay in - a quick scan of Booking. I'd also heard horror stories about driving in the region, where hairpin turns and rugged cliffs proved hazardous to non locals. Besides which, you can't park in most of the villages. Additionally, looking past the prettiness of the pictures, it was clear that if you stayed in one of these 5 picturesque villages, your place was likely to be up a steep steep stairway, where you'd be lugging your bags up and down tiny stairs among the crush of crowds that can invade these former sleepy seaside villages. Not exactly the relaxing start to a holiday break! So, although the romance of staying 'in' Cinque Terra is nice in theory, my practical side couldn't justify all of that painful messing about. This was meant to be a holiday, not an endurance test. We were looking for accommodation that could give the following:. Access to a beach for daily swims this was our one beach holiday of the year so I'd be damned if we missed an opportunity! Easily get to the train station to connect to the Cinque Terra villages. Ideally owned and run by locals, not a chain hotel so we can support the local business. It's the next major port down from the 5 villages and has an established tourism centre and plenty of hotel options. As it was, for the time of year we were travelling, there weren't anything other than chain hotels still available and nothing appealed. La Spezia is also the main port for many cruise ships that stop by this area of Italy, specifically to drop off crowds of tourists to enjoy the Cinque Terra. While I don't have any problem with that style of travel at all, knowing its often the most convenient and affordable way for people to see a lot in a small amount of time - we didn't want to fight a literal boatload of tourists to get on the train to Cinque Terra daily. So La Spezia was off the list. If you are planning your own trip and spot a place in La Spezia that suits your budget, it is definitely a good option for accommodation. Outside of peak cruise season it is undoubtedly a good geographical choice to stay! So where did we manage to find this mythical dream accommodation option to suit our ridiculously high standards? Levanto is one village further than Monterosso on the Cinque Terra train line, northwest of the 5 villages and La Spezia. It has a similar rustic feeling to the Cinque Terra villages, but the added bonus of being a seaside resort town for Italians, Germans and Swiss to visit in its own right. There's a beautiful stretch of white sandy beach for daily swims, a medieval palace with open gardens for morning strolls, an extensive boulevard by the beach with restaurants and cafes and some pretty fascinating history and architecture in its own right. It gave us fantastic walking access to the beach in 5 minutes, the train station within ten minutes and we were surrounded by restaurants and cafes - not to mention the best bakery in town for breakfast. Each day we were able to get up early, stroll through town for a pastry and espresso for breakfast Italians truly do live their best lives , take a beach swim and then pop on a train to get to one of the villages for a day of sightseeing. Even with the swim and catching the train, as long as we were in the villages before 11am it was possible to get some sightseeing done without hordes of people photobombing and elbowing you out the way. Staying in Levanto also meant we got to see a bit more local life. In the evenings as we perched on bar stools, munching on handmade pizza drizziled in Ligurian pesto and 3 kinds of cheese. We watched families and ridiculously attractive Italian mothers gather their kids and Nonna's for walks down the cobbled streets. Because Levanto is more than just a sight of itself, it has a beach resort feeling but with local schools, fruit sellers, families and the proof of everyday life in the city streets. For us, the balance of everyday Italian living, the long sandy stretch of beach and easy access to tourist villages when we wanted them made Levanto our ideal jumping off place. If you're looking to stay near the Cinque Terra but away from hordes of people and experience some real Italian living, here's the places I'd recommend in Levanto;. Ospitala de Mare hostel , walking distance to the beach and with a view over the church towers, this is a super budget option if you don't mind staying in dorm style rooms. The La Grotta Azzura was like staying with your own Italian Nonna and our host Fabiana was absolutely lovely, making cute breakfasts in the backyard for us, telling where was good for food and very friendly every time we crossed paths. The location really sold this place. Do be aware though Levanto as a city can get quite damp and muggy because of its location and as this place is in a grotto, you have to remember to turn the dehumidifier on or everything stays damp! Other than that this was a really good mid-range budget option in the centre of town, and we loved that it was family run. It's a bit further up the hillside so about a 15 minute walk into town, but the views and the more modern decor more than make up for it. An excellent option if you want to splash out! Levanto really did redeem the Cinque Terra madness. If you want somewhere to enjoy the Cinque Terra away from all the crazy crowds, Levanto is your answer. Just don't tell all those other tourists about this little oasis, will you? We want to keep some of this gloriousness for ourselves! Where to stay in Cinque Terra to avoid the crowds. Slow Travel. Jul 26 Written By Carly. We were looking for accommodation that could give the following: Access to a beach for daily swims this was our one beach holiday of the year so I'd be damned if we missed an opportunity! It was perfect. If you're looking to stay near the Cinque Terra but away from hordes of people and experience some real Italian living, here's the places I'd recommend in Levanto; Budget: Ospitala de Mare hostel , walking distance to the beach and with a view over the church towers, this is a super budget option if you don't mind staying in dorm style rooms. Italy Levanto travel travel tips.

Where to stay in Cinque Terra to avoid the crowds

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