Mallorca rockclimbing autumn 2014

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Our Mallorca rockclimbing program - here!

Rockclimbing in Mallorca. Climbing Bulletin, issue October 2014.

The sun is rising, the sea is turning blue, the roosters are crowing and the distant mountains are shrouded in morning mist - the second day of rockclimbing in Mallorca begins with… With what do you think?! Well, of course, you are not mistaken! With the traditional morning exercises, as it should be, every beautiful morning begins so in a good company!

I will be brief and concise so as not to spoil the mood of those who sit in a dull office in some cold gloomy city and watch with dreary envy how cheerful sports life is in full swing somewhere. Envy is bad, I have to immediately warn you! Better get your climbing shoes and swimming trunks ready for our next rockclimbing program in Tenerife!

So, a brief report on the beginning of our trip to Mallorca.

We arrived and settled without any complications - everything was as usual - an airplane, a long belt of a high-speed autobahn, a little wandering along dark country roads in search of the right turn, and finally, the long-awaited silence came - an old mansion blackens against the background of the starry sky in a black park - our house for the next two weeks. The cicadas are crackling, the illuminated pool does not fit into the rural idyll of a country villa, but it is very useful after a long journey ...

The first day of training went great - however, as expected. The sector delighted with long 30 meter routes on gray limestone slabs, the routes made it possible to feel all the features of climbing in natural terrain - slightly positive and vertical routes with countless foot placement solutions - this is the best thing to feel what we were so long and scrupulously teach you at the climbing wall))

The results of the first day exceeded expectations - the set of routes from 5c-6a-6b-6c for the first training can be called quite ambitious, but we did it! Olga has the best result - 6c second go - and this is only the first day!!

Of course, the general surroundings of the training deserve a few words - a smooth blue horizon, the rustle of dry autumn grass in a light fresh autumn wind, the dull roar of the distant surf, the mild autumn sun of the Mediterranean ... okay, perhaps, you have enough for the first issue of my Bulletin.

Today we are going to Cala Magraner - a cozy bay surrounded by beautiful yellow rocks. Ahead - a whole day of rockclimbing on the beach, with breaks for swimming) Have a nice day everyone!

Day 4-5

In the second issue of our Mallorca rockclimbing Bulletin, I will try to briefly inform you about what happened to us and around us over the past two days after the publication of the first issue of our Bulletin!

Firstly, we were finally convinced that this heavenly place was completely occupied by Germans of all possible ages, sizes and inclinations! They are everywhere, but we stand firm!

Secondly, the level of climbing in our friendly team rose to 7b in three days of training - it was worth a few torn fingers and wasted strength, why not, in the end - we will treat scratches and bruises at home, but here we have to climb!

If in order, it all started with the fact that Sasha Rimarenko climbed the Big Women... This happens on vacation, you understand... Inspired by his example, Dima climbed onto the same woman as well. Before they had time to climb it properly, the Germans appeared and by cunning maneuver took possession of our woman, leaving the guys out of work. That was the beginning, setting the right tone for international sports competition. (The Big Women 6b+ is a popular climbing route)

Revenge was taken the very next day! The competitors were not even on the horizon yet, and Sasha Kukushkin was already heroically fighting for his onsight. He fought, because there is no other way to call such an intense and purposeful process. And Alexander won, opening our team score with a clean onsight with 6a+ overhang!! This is a result worthy of mention in our Bulletin!

The next one was even better! Olga scored an onsight on 6b and a very beautiful 6c. But, as soon as we felt warm enough to move on to the real routes, we were literally washed away by rain... The day that promised so many victories and achievements ended in a puddle. Everything got wet, from the ropes to the iPhones and Sasha's GoPro.

The next day, the sun came out, and all the dampness of the previous day remained only in memories and a video camera that could not stand swimming in the rain. During the whole day of sunny bliss, on the yellow cliffs over the bluest sea in the world, we achieved very worthy results, confidently stepping into the next category - now we have the entire set up to 7b, and, which is especially pleasing, this is clearly not the limit of our potential! The guys independently lead and clean the routes of the 5th and the beginning of the 6th category, it's like peanuts for them!

Everyone tanned and tightened up, even the worst losers became infected with sports passion and voluntarily abandoned bad habits and inclinations!

Today we have a well-deserved day of rest - the weather is conducive to swimming and sunbathing on the beach - we are going to spend half a day in a secluded picturesque bay, and then - a traditional evening hike through the narrow winding streets and fortress walls of Alcudia.

We miss you all! Stay up to date and see you in the next issue of the Mallorca rockclimbing Bulletin!

Issue 3 day 6-7

In this issue of our Bulletin, I want to briefly say a few words about how those who climb well - have a rest as well! A day of break gave us back some of the energy we had wasted in three beautiful and hard days of rockclimbing! The weather is shining, the sea is blistering, the sun is warming - the ideal environment to recover and tune in to the next training cycle - then we have WOW ambitions!

We had a great weekend and are now back to hard sports work.

By the way, this sports and recreation trip turned out to be more like a vicious training trip - the enthusiasm and skill of the participants amaze and grow every day, the fingers, torn the day before are eager to fight rocks again in the morning !!

And be happy for us - the current result of our training is 7c and this is far from the limit)

Issue 4 day 8-9

Greetings, my rockclimbing friends! Good day to everyone, the next issue of the Mallorca Rockclimbing Bulletin is with you again!

Having stayed out of the course of world events for some time, our small team quickly adapted to the rhythm of life on the island - a quiet and measured climbing routine, not overshadowed by any political and natural disasters.

Yesterday we had a relaxing day off - we met the dawn on the easternmost tip of the island - Cape Formentor, where the Tramontana mountain range goes into the abyss of the Mediterranean Sea, and on the horizon, the outlines of neighboring Ibiza are visible in the morning haze.

Having enjoyed the enchanting spectacle of the birth of the solar disk from the depths of the Mediterranean Sea, we went to see the standard set of local attractions. We walked along the crooked streets of Pollenca, bought a new hat and rockclimbing shoes for Sasha and a couple of informative climbing books, visited the Lluc Monastery - a cozy and secluded corner, immersed into a sleepy calm in the heart of cliffs of the Sierra Tramontana. In general, we went through our day off with taste and dignity, although sometimes we fool around a little.

To revive the story, I want to write a few words about a small episode from our rockclimbing life - and you can draw your own conclusions! What do you think, what occupation did I find the guys doing when I returned in the evening after a short trip to the nearby town?!

Don't guess, you won't even imaging anyway! Having gathered in a tight circle at the table on the veranda, under the chirping of cicadas and the twinkling of the starry sky, under the yellow light of candles in the candelabra, the guys plunged headlong into research and (!!!) decomposing the famous Es Pontas route according to the movements - the world famous DWS category, mmm …. Just some 9a+. We draw conclusions.

Today we start the third part of our training program in Mallorca. There is not so much strength left as at the beginning of the trip, everyone got a little tired. But at the same time, an understanding of our capabilities, features of the technique and tactics of climbing on natural terrain appeared, the healthy enthusiasm of the participants strengthened and acquired quite clear outlines and understanding of the goal. Without exception, all participants gained an understanding of the need to work on climbing technique and motivation for further training!

From the results of the program now, I want to note the obvious successes of both Aleksandrs - they got to 6b+, though not onsight yet, but nonetheless. Dmitry proved to be especially bright on the Pink Panther route 6a+ in the Fraguel sector.

But on the difficult routes, we have had some difficulty so far - the grade 8 is close, but the cruel reality suggests that this proximity is deceptive - the categories here in Mallorca are quite tough.

The best achievements are two climbed 7’s - "La gorille a une bonne mine" - 7c in the Fraguel sector, though we pushed up the key move for two hours... and the classic 7c+ in the Hermita de Betlem sector - "La sombra de cain" - without the first move, but five times. Plus removing quickdraws from the roof.

Good luck everyone! And see you in the final issue of our Bulletin!

Issue 5 day 9-12

All good things come to an end quickly, and the better - the faster. Well, it seems like only yesterday we arrived at this secluded villa, and were going in the morning for the first training session on the rocks. And today it's time to fly back home. 12 days of rockclimbing in Mallorca rushed away like a bright happy dream from another life - a mass of impressions elusive in their variety, explosions of joy and light clouds of grief - everything is like in real life, but in a carefree, purposeful and harmonious life - Real life. 

Now everybody needs to wake up and return to normal world - judging by the weather forecast, returning to Europe involves using all the available wardrobe.

In the final issue of the Rockclimbing Bulletin, I want to thank all those about whose successes I always had something to write - our small team has turned into something more these days. United by one task, we put together our forces to solve it - the result exceeded all expectations - we grew together into a single organism, in which each part of it, with all its individuality, harmoniously complemented a single whole.

We truly united as a Real Team - this is the most important and valuable achievement of the program.

Also thanks to all those who followed our progress and cheered for us from afar - do not hesitate to join us for the next time!

If we talk about the specific results of the program, first of all, these are 34 routes of categories from 5 to 7c+ in 9 different sectors, on a great variety of terrain. Dima and Sasha have shown themselves to be real climbing fighters - they now have in their arsenal independently leaded routes of the fifth and the beginning of the sixth categories. The star of the program was undoubtedly Sasha Kukushkin - day by day, his climbing ability became smoother and more technical, the routes became more difficult, and his ambitions grew to 7a - Alexander leaded it to the end and completed all the movements on the famous Buf route in the Alaro sector!!!

A result that will forever remain in the memory of those who saw the heroic struggle of Alexander with passive sidepulls on a 30-meter overhang!

Julia - immersion in a new topic opened up for her new horizons of creativity and, possibly, a new sports hobby!

Olga - God forbid everyone to have at least a part of that dedication and technical literacy, which not only allowed solving the most intricate cruxes on the complex routes, but most importantly, motivated all the participants to overcome themselves and their own fears by a vivid example. The most difficult routes of this program were completed only thanks to Olga - this is an indisputable fact.

And separately, it is necessary to say a few words about an inconspicuous, at first even nameless member of our team.

Sergei, thank you for everything. Even though you put sheep shit in my backpack, broke off the key hold on the 7c+, not a once slammed the door at the night and let mosquitoes in, drowned the praying mantis in the pool and constantly put beer in Sasha’s basket in the store… But you didn’t do all this out of evil, but only for that we could see in your actions a reflection of our weaknesses. And learn from your example to experience with humor and ease those everyday tricks of fortune that are impossible to avoid (if you are not an angel). Thank you, Sergei, for taking responsibility for all our fails!

Good luck and see you in training!

Program leader, author of text and photos – Alex Trubachev

MCS EDIT 2023