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My heart was pounding, my hands were clammy and my brain kept leaping forward to ever more dramatic outcomes. We were deep in the Sacred Valley of the Incas, where the altitude is so high that the midday sun only gently warms your skin and alpacas grow layers of silky wool. I was crouched under a candyfloss-shaped queuna tree, while Puric — the shaman — prepared for our coca leaf ceremony with the brazen look of someone who was about to look into my future. He started the ceremony with a young woman to my right, chanting, touching her head, giving her leaves to chew and hold in her palm. Another visitor was warned of a lifetime of loneliness. The third was told to leave her job. And then it was my turn. Having recently become single and freelance, visions of tragedy and destitution seemed inevitable. I chewed a little harder on my coca leaves while Puric placed a gnarled hand on my head, pressed his cool fingers on my cheeks and, after an elaborate chanting ritual, tossed my leaves on the mat in front of him. He stared intently at them, looked up and slowly clapped his hands. That was the moment I really got into Peruvian wellness. Peru is the global capital of healing ceremonies and each year thousands of tourists travel to Iquitos, the largest city in the Peruvian Amazon, for the infamous ayahuasca cure and the spiritual bender it promises. Ayahuasca practitioners claim that you will see the physical manifestation of some mental, emotional, psychological or energetic disorder and be able to fix it. And while there is something enticing about the Alice-in-Wonderland-like ability of one glass of bitter brown liquid to solve everything from diabetes to depression, as some fans claim, the prospect of hallucinations and hours of vomiting frightened me. I was determined to find an easier way. I began indulgently, with a coca leaf massage in Machu Picchu , at Inkaterra Pueblo — a luxurious hotel and spa set near the ancient ruins themselves, where jungle leaves trail into bubbling hot springs and bug-eyed scarlet birds peer down from the canopy of leaves. And while a coca leaf massage sounds like something Pablo Escobar would have demanded after issuing a few death threats, it actually harks back to Inca royalty, who saw the coca plant as sacred. The leaf is filled with useful properties that help fight high blood pressure, alleviate altitude sickness and increase fat burning — Peruvians even believe it cures cancer. Afterwards, I found my lingering altitude headache had disappeared, as had my stiff shoulders, while my muscles felt soothed. The coca leaf dominates spiritual life in the Andes, but if you really want to do a deep dive into Peruvian wellness, you have to find your way to the Amazon and the terrifyingly potent jungle plants that await in the most botanically diverse place on Earth. The flight from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado is disconcertingly transformative for a mere 40 minutes. The mountains give way to the dense Amazon jungle and the ground temperature rises by nearly 25 degrees. Once there, I took a wooden boat down one of the mud-brown tributaries that flow into the Amazon river, accompanied by flocks of parrots and the occasional caiman crocodile. I was going to meet Manuas, an Amazonian shaman who specialises in flowering baths. Once negative behaviours have lodged themselves in the body, your emotions become unbalanced, and flowering baths redress that by finding your bad spirits and luring them out. During a typical ayahuasca ceremony, clients receive a flowering bath as the hallucinations are ending to leave them feeling uplifted. Keen to catch up, I had two pisco sours on the beautiful wooden balcony of the Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica, which looks over the river and is louder than any London bar, thanks to a cacophony of parrots, parakeets and buzzing insects. Under a fruit tree after the sun set, Manuas and I sat cross-legged and facing one another. He was dressed in a gold and white robe, with garlands of unrecognisable plants covering his chest and head. I was in a bikini, looking anxiously at a tarantula on a branch just above his head. He handed me a cup of bitter tea to drink, placed his hands on my head and — through a translator — started asking probing questions about my life. Each time I answered with something negative, he would pray and empty a jug filled with flowers and scented water over my head. With each confession, garlands of orchids, passion flowers and lobster claw flowers were chucked at my face, and I was told to repeat what I had been saying until I could find a positive angle. In the modern world, sleep is often a barometer of mental health, and that night I slept better than I had in months. But I did return from Peru feeling more relaxed than I had in years. Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies. Please refresh the page or navigate to another page on the site to be automatically logged in Please refresh your browser to be logged in. I would like to be emailed about offers, events and updates from The Independent. Read our privacy policy. More about Peru travel wellness travel Machu Picchu. Join our commenting forum Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies Comments. 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Hey there! I'm so glad you're here! I'm a travel-loving, Chinese learning, puppy mamma, ESL teacher trying to help older English Language Learners find success in classrooms around the world! May RSS Feed. How we spent our time in Puerto Maldonado before heading into the Amazon! We took the most amazing trip to Peru in April , starting in Puerto Maldonado! We visited the Peruvian Amazon, Cusco, Machu Picchu, and Lima, ate incredible food, relaxed, went on so many adventures, and fell in love with Peruvian culture. My hope is that this Peru Travel Diary might inspire you to go on your own adventure. Our first leg of the trip took us from Denver to Atlanta. We were eating lunch when we got the notification: Flight Delayed! We knew we only had an hour and 45 minutes to make our connecting flight to Lima, so, trying not to panic, we opened the app to see what was up. Seeing that our departure time was the same, we figured it was just a glitch in the app and went back to eating lunch and trying our best to cram a few Spanish words into our brains. When we got to the gate, we figured out what was really going on. Yes, our flight was departing at the same time…but they had added almost two hours onto our flight time! It turns out, there were huge storms over Texas, so they changed our flight path for safety. All that running for nothing, but our next flight was incredibly uneventful and we made it to Lima safe, sound, and only 20 minutes late! We landed in Lima around 6am and made it through customs in just a few minutes, leaving us about 5 hours before our flight to Puerto Maldonado! Luckily, we had lounge access with if you haven't considered the Chase Sapphire Reserve Card before Domestic travel in Peru was so simple! It was a quick flight to Puerto Maldonado, and we stepped off the plane and into the hot, muggy air of the Amazon! On the tarmac in Puerto Maldonado, Peru, about a minute and a half before the humidity took out my hair! Puerto Maldonado is a small port town in the Amazon that is about 34 miles from Bolivia and is the entry point for most people heading to the Tambopata Reserve. This part of the Peruvian Amazon is one of the least visited portions, leaving the rainforest in pristine condition! We arrived in Puerto Maldonado in the early afternoon, bargained with a Tuk Tuk driver, and headed to our hotel in town. We stayed the night at the Wasai Puerto Maldonado Hostel , which, despite being called a hostel, had plenty of private rooms! I never even saw where the hostel rooms might be hiding. Our room had a gorgeous view of the river, and the hotel staff was so helpful in contacting our ecolodge to coordinate a pickup time for us the next day! After dropping our bags, we headed out to explore the city…and got absolutely lost! We were in heaven, and I lost track of how many times we had to remind ourselves not to pet stray dogs! We loved how many different breeds of dogs were wandering around Puerto Maldonado! We mimed our way through the menu, pointing, shrugging, and pretty much just allowing them to bring us whatever they felt like, and ended up with the most delicious ceviche we have EVER eaten. This plate was more than enough for the two of us, even though we were starving when we got there! Puerto Maldonado is at the top of my list for best ceviche! We ate our hearts out and then realized that we were just a block away from the market we were looking for. The markets seem to close pretty early in Peru, so as people started packing up their stalls, we headed back toward our hotel. We loved exploring the market and looking at all the fresh jungle fruit! We were exhausted, but happily stopped at an ice cream shop serving jungle fruit ice cream! We sat on the sidewalk eating our ice cream and watching the constant parade of motorcycles and tuk tuks drive by, in absolute heaven. Jungle Ice Cream in Puerto Maldonado! As it was about sunset, we headed out through the main square and to the bridge that crossed the river and was said to be a beautiful sight for sunset. While the sides of the bridge were a bit high for me to see too much, it was beautiful and so surreal to watch the sun sink over the Amazon rainforest! Taking in the surreal feeling of actually being in the Amazon! After sunset, we headed back to town for dinner, and then back for some pisco sours in the hotel pool before bed. The view from our room at Wasai Puerto Maldonado Hostel. And got ready for the day. It turns out, completely without planning, the day we were heading to the Amazon was Earth Day! As we wandered through town to find a place for breakfast, we found the police department putting together a float in honor of the day. Police in Puerto Maldonado prepared this Earth Day float. We ended up finding a sandwich shop on the edge of a cliff with a gorgeous view of the forest and the most delicious coffee we had on our trip! I wish I had found the name, but just know it was a block or so to the left of the square with the river behind you and just wonderful. The most delicious cup of coffee! After heading back to the Wasai Puerto Maldonado Hostel , we packed our bags and headed up to the lobby, where we waited to be picked up for our journey deeper into the jungle! Was an afternoon and a morning enough time? Other than that, most of the things to do involve leaving the town for the day! Was it safe? We never once felt unsafe, even walking around at night. Just be careful crossing the streets! Did people speak English? The hotel staff did. Did you need cash? We pulled out some cash at the Lima airport using an ATM, and ended up using cash about half the time in Puerto Maldonado. Most of the more established restaurants used Visa, but not all. We always check around a stall first to see if it feels safe to eat! It's usually pretty obvious if it's not! We try to stay away from fruits and veggies that have to be washed, like lettuce, since the water isn't safe to drink in Peru. Other than that, we pop a Travelan before we eat and had no problems at all! We learned about these from a friend who travels a ton, and man are they are a lifesaver! Just take one tablet with each meal that you're nervous about. We didn't get sick from any food our entire trip! Would you recommend visiting? Most the ecolodges will pick you up from the airport, but we loved getting a bit of time to explore an authentic town on our own first. Plus, it maximized our first day in the jungle as we were able to be picked up for transfer at am the next day instead of around pm after our flight had landed. Lukas Carter link. Author Hey there! 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