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The basic message is remarkably consistent from virtually all segments of Jordanian society with which I have come in contact. Al-wadeh , the political situation in the Middle East, is, as we would expect, on everyone's mind, especially those with Palestinian roots in the West Bank. Carmen and I have been in the company of several friends some in their homes, some in ours since arriving here a week ago. The conversation somehow at some point in some way gravitates to al-wadeh. As always, I am welcomed with open arms and supplied with all things hospitable. And, as always, questions about how the U. Foreigners, however limited in number in Jordan today, are most welcome ahlan wa-sahlan! It is not all that much different from feelings I picked up in the immediate aftermath of the Gulf War of Whatever the ultimate truth of this extremely complex matter, these are the sentiments I hear. To keep up with Jordanian perspectives, visit the real Jordan Times website at www. In terms of the atmosphere in Jordan today, it is most pleasantly quiet and peaceful. Embassy that, while there are always some risks involved whenever and wherever people travel in the Middle East probably no more so than in Los Angeles or Detroit, I suspect, but not Walla Walla, or course , the Kingdom of Jordan has experienced no incidents which have in any way endangered visitors from other countries. The hour police guard at ACOR does add some comfort as well. The principal of ATC, Dr. Saleh Naji formerly vice-principal , expressed what he thought everyone there felt, that the MPPites inhabiting ATC over the past several seasons have conducted themselves in ways resulting in trust and confidence among members of the college staff and the community. This is quite remarkable, as everyone knows who goes to the DAJ, having sometimes taken days to make appointments which occasionally work and occasionally don't. Carmen and I just walked in off the street. Maybe it was the fact that Carmen was with me? Getting the I have also kept busy renewing friendships and making official visits. But, probably the most important event of the week happened three or four days ago with the decision of a lifetime involving which of the madly courting car rental companies to engage in a deal. Not a shopper by nature, I have to admit it seemed to me something of an adventure to visit two establishments in the King Abdullah Gardens mall with glass store fronts facing each other to see which would give us the best deal on a small 4X4. Every time we went into the Rally Rental Company office, the Avis people watched. Every time we came out of the Avis office, the Rally people were looking at us across the counter. At one point, having left one company and headed down the mall, we were accosted by a representative of the other company with a better offer. The sad part of the story is that there is simply no business to be had for these companies, further adding to the economic woes of the country. This makes for a buyers' market, however, and it served us well. And we don't feel too bad as we were planning to make a contract for eight months, which would provide steady income on the car for over half a year. Our options: a black, two-door, 2. And high speed it gives, what with a 1. This rubber band is wrapped tight! What a machine it was to see on the lot-a Daihatsu Terios! And we had to choose between the two. Given what we knew at the time and the fact that at home we each have a red vehicle-Carmen a bright red Oldsmobile and me a brick-red Jeep Cherokee and the fact that keeping a black automobile clean in the summertime in Jordan seemed pointless, especially in the dust-free environment of dirt archaeology and, oh, the fact that the red vehicle cost about JD less per month than the other and, of course, we would have a full tank of gas with which to begin , there really was no choice at all. Turned out to be a no-brainer. We went for the Daihatsu. And because it is about half the size of my Cherokee at home, we have decided to call it ' Jeepers. Oh, the heads it doesn't turn on the streets of Amman! Already Jeepers has taken us several places. I drove on Thursday to ATC to renew contact with the new principal of the college and plan for the coming summer. I was met with hugs and kisses all around. The principal and business manager were more than gracious. The guards, overjoyed to see me, smothered me with cheek-kisses. Come to think of it, I was standing in front of Jeepers when I greeted them, so maybe they just liked my new wheels. In any case, it was good to see them all again and plans appear to be in place, although our letter needs to go through several chains of command before being approved. Normally observing these sites under the dry conditions of summer, I had a difficult time adjusting to the brilliant green carpet of grass over the entire landscape. Rainfall has been reasonably good so far this autumn, but the country need lots more before the rainy season ends in April. But all three sites are in good condition. Otherwise, the consolidation and restoration of the site have proven very worthwhile in the state of preservation now apparent. Some clandestine excavation going on in the northeast portion of Field B, where another large Iron 2 pithos partially buried in the east balk has been uncovered. Hisban looks better every time I visit it. Further clearance of the Mamluk complex on the top has revealed a lot about this remarkable structure and helped us make sense of previously excavated bits and pieces. Jalul seems to be surviving the off-season well, although all those deep text-book balks of ash and loess are eroding somewhat. Lots to be uncovered here; many years of work ahead! Not being a shopper, I only helped facilitate others in the shopping process. Costs money, time, energy, patience fighting traffic, virtues of clean language, everything. That's what shopping costs a person. Might lead an otherwise religious person to cuss a bit, maybe say something like 'jeepers' or perhaps even something worse. Editor: Doug Clark Assoc. All rights reserved. Any unauthorized duplication of images or content on this site is strictly prohibited. Volume 1, Issue 1.
Jordan in winter: a tale of adventure and incredible hospitality
Madaba buying snow
Apologies for staying unusually quiet these last few weeks! After producing a few new blog posts over the quiet period of the holidays, work was unusually busy, and then I went on my much-awaited winter sun holiday. Or so I thought… Do you wonder what travelling to Jordan in winter is like? Read on…. It all started with me spotting a very cheap flight to Aqaba on the Red Sea back in November one exceptionally dark and wet afternoon. Having been to the Sinai in January before, I snapped it up and got very excited about long days and warming winter sun. Here are some of them! When you visit Jordan in winter, you might want to skip Amman, as its at nearly metres elevation and usually very cold. But what a wonderful capital city it is! Book a hotel with reliable heating, put on some good shoes and scale those steps! I used Booking. Amman has the finest shopping in all of Jordan — some of it tourist-orientated, but Downtown is a great mixture of local and souvenir shopping, and locals outnumber tourists by far! The most famous one, Qasr Amra, is actually a bath house from the Umayyad bath era. It is also the furthest from Amman but worth the trip for its wonderful well-preserved frescoes alone. Thought all Islamic imagery was aniconic and austere? Qasr Kharanah probably fits the description as a castle the most. A highly atmospheric place — you really feel like you are in the middle of nowhere. When visiting Jordan in winter, sticking to the lower places in the South basically, Aqaba might be a good idea, but I wanted to see this town and its excellent Roman and Byzantine -era mosaics. Perhaps the most famous one can be found in Madabas relatively modern Greek Orthodox Church and it depicts the Holy Land pretty accurately. This might be the route you can travel on if you visit Jordan in winter. After some severe weather at higher elevations further South, taking the Dead Sea Road approach to Petra seemed my only option. Not that I minded — there was sunshine and warmth for two blissful hours as we travelled along the Dead Sea. Which has always warmer climate than nearby Amman and Madaba, and you might be able to take a dip even in Jordan in winter! But this, time, sadly, I had no time. That alone was worth the taxi fare! Beautiful scenery at every turn for about 40km from turning off the Dead Sea highway all the way to Petra. And finally… Petra! I was a little unlucky with the weather, but I did make good use of the time I had before fleeing the cold and blizzards. Yes, blizzards! After some pretty severe weather forecast for Petra, I fled the cold and snow and returned to Aqaba. I had no booking, no knowledge, no nothing…. I used Aqaba as a base for Wadi Rum, and seeing it was a little cold for me to lie on the beach, spent a lovely day eating and wandering though the markets. A resort town after my own heart — somewhat scruffy, unpretentious, and exceptional good value. Eastern Europeans in liquor stores, independent travellers, well-heeled people from the top class resorts and well-covered ladies — they all mix happily in Aqabas pleasant sunny streets. And lets not forget the food! Senaya in Aqaba. Extra bonus points for the great juice bar right next to it. You may not be able to sunbathe on the public beach without getting some real good stares, but there are some higher priced hotels with private beaches as well as private beach clubs. It is quite an important post on the overland route to Mecca, so rather conservative, but not unfriendly. I loved the hustle and bustle at the public beach, great for people watching, not so much for swimming. The dive bases 10km South or the somewhat isolated resort of Tala Bay should provide for all your swimming, snorkelling and sunbathing desired. And that was my whirlwind Jordan in winter tour! I will write some more posts about this trip, but if you have any specific questions, please feel free to drop me a line or leave a comment! Hardly any one visits the country in winter, except for Aqaba — and some cruises, so Petra and Wadi Rum are never out of season, but see considerably fewer visitors than in high season of spring and autumn when weather conditions are more favourable. I recommend you keep your plans somewhat flexible to adapt to weather conditions, especially in the high-lying areas of Wadi Rum, Petra, Amman, Kerak and Dana, but also the Northern cities of Ajloun, Jerash and Salt. Also opt for accommodation that can be cancelled should the weather require a change of plan. I use Booking. Thankfully, I only had to cancel once due to bad weather on a previous trip, and I received a full refund. My route took me from Aqaba to Amman. A week was plenty to see plenty of Jordan. A week would be sufficient to get a good idea of what Jordan has to offer, but not see all its sights. I used public transport except on two occasions. I hired a car and driver for the Desert Castles Loop, as there is no public transport. Also, due to low season and snow, there were no shared taxis on the King Highway. Or public buses from Amman to Petra on the day I wished to travel. I had to hire a taxi to take me to Petra via the Dead Sea route. Both days cost approximately 90 Euro in travel costs alone. Public and tourist buses were a lot cheaper than in Europe — details to follow. Due to the somewhat unexpected higher cost of hiring private transport, I saved on accommodation and paid approximately Euros per night for very clean and perfectly adequate private rooms in small owner-run hotels with exceptional hospitality. Food was cheap and very good, and there was also some rather good shopping but this really deserves an extra post! Cost : Private taxi on two days approximately Euro and entry fee to Petra approximately 75 Euro , totalling Euro. All other costs were about Euro in total, including flight, accommodation for 6 nights, and public transport. This amounts to Euro for a rather pleasant week exploring Jordan, travelling in relative comfort, and spending most of my money locally. The situation in the Middle East can be volatile and change with barely any notice. I visited in the weeks following the assassination of General Suleimani , where foreign office travel advice from my home country, the United Kingdom and the United States of America urged people to be alert and avoid the border regions with Iraq and Syria as well as be mindful of political demonstrations. Personally, being a white solo female with no knowledge of Arabic, I felt just as safe as in Germany, road traffic aside. People were polite I did not witness any political demonstration. There were police checkpoints all over the place, including an ever-present tourist police willing to help. Some gentle overcharging occurred here and there in tourist sites, but nothing terrible. Disclosure: This trip was entirely self funded. I have received no monetary or non-monetary rewards for linking aside from some affiliate links to Booking. I will only review and recommend places that I have stayed in myself. You can trust me for the whole, unbiased truth. More details on my affiliate link policy are here. If you like this article and wish to read more on somewhat off-beat destinations and how to get there stylishly but not pay a ton of money, consider to Follow my blog with Bloglovin. I book my hotels either directly or I use Booking. This website uses cookies so that we can provide you with the best user experience possible. Cookie information is stored in your browser and performs functions such as recognising you when you return to our website and helping our team to understand which sections of the website you find most interesting and useful. Strictly Necessary Cookie should be enabled at all times so that we can save your preferences for cookie settings. If you disable this cookie, we will not be able to save your preferences. This means that every time you visit this website you will need to enable or disable cookies again. Practicalities Transport Accommodation Is it safe to visit Jordan? The legal blurb. 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Madaba buying snow
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Madaba buying snow