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We got up at 6… no, 6. The check-in took over 20 minutes as there were two other couples that also came at the same time. Our room was the coziest room during the trip so far, and we had a balcony. We were super tired after getting up early so I fell asleep and C also eventually while listening to a podcast. The beach was a beautiful stretch of white sand beach next to shallow waters and there was plenty of space. It was crazy hot and we were hungry so after searching for any decent-looking place to eat we ended up having a late breakfast at the hotel. Not the most exotic but it was quite varied compared to the previous places with toast, honey, jam, chicken sausage, cereals with milk, omelette, croissants, coffee and juice. After brunch we spent a few hours reading and relaxing and in the afternoon we went to enjoy the beach when the heat was just perfectly bearable. We went to look for small packets of detergent with no luck after finding out the hotel takes 1 dollar per item yes, a tiny piece of underwear goes for 1 dollar but luckily I had a packet left in my bag so I could wash some underwear and t-shirts in the bathroom sink lasting me a few more days. The evening gave us a nice view as the moon lit up the ocean. We sat down at the seemingly only dinner restaurant on the island, which had a slightly more extensive menu with pasta, pizza and kothu roshi. Not bad. On our way back we joined in last minute on a half day Snorkeling trip tomorrow, not really knowing what to expect. We wanted to have snacks when the clock was getting late and C even went out to get some but came back empty-handed. Luckily we had some chocolate left from yesterday. I say this so you can imagine the huge struggles we have to bear through to make it through our days here. We woke up just before 9 to go have breakfast. I was hoping that it would be better than at the other place but these pancakes were so dry and the omelett half raw so I ended up not really eating much at all haha. Oh well. The boat came about 5 minutes later and we got on and said goodbye to the staff that helped us with our bags. Quite funny. He even went on the boat, had a look at it and then got off again. This time we got a room with a tiny tiny balcony overlooking the sea. After checking in we dropped our bags and went to have a drink at Amigos. C went for a mocktail with red bull, passion fruit syrup, passion fruit, lime, mint leaves and ice which he sipped on with a smile on his face. I had a strawberry smoothie tasting like and most likely being melted strawberry ice cream. Only downside were the plastic straws they came with on fulidhoo they had metal ones. As the heat beat us we went back to our room and spent a few hours reading. In the evening we took a stroll to the other side of the island and watched the sunset before getting some snacks and drinks for later and then heading to eat dinner at the arena restaurant. The buffet was better this time with a guy making tomato sauce of your choice and pasta in front of you. After a week of rice, rice, rice, noodles, rice, sandwich and fries, this was a welcome change. In the later evening I finished reading the immigrants Invandrarna and then after a shower went for some sleep. Alarm set on 6… brrr. We got up to have breakfast around 9 and then we packed our bags. At 11, the staff drove us the 30 second drive to the opposite side of the island with our luggage where we then waited for the public boat to arrive. The final 30 minutes of the boat trip had even me a bit seasick as the waves got really big. We were escorted a 2 minute walk to Luau Beach Inn. The picture above is taken just outside. We first got a room where I immediately noted a bad smell in the bathroom, resulting in getting another and better room. There is also a beach right in front of us but I would have to wear long pants and a t-shirt to be allowed swimming there. Yup, Maldives is strictly following the sharia laws, which unfortunately imposes that women cannot wear whatever they want. The beach was beautiful and the water just never gets boring to look at. We bought a coconut and had a dip in the water before taking a walk to the other side of the island to watch the sun go down. When it was getting dark we got our dinner at the beach in front of the inn. Since this island is so small and the groceries are somewhat restricted we have to order our food at least one hour in advance. Island life is suiting us well! We woke up to the alarm set at 9 and snoozed until 9. It was very cozy to sit outside in the sand having coffee looking out over the water. We then relaxed a bit before going to explore the beach. The blueness of this water is breathtaking! We soaked in the sun for a while before going to cool off at the nearby arena beach restaurant. I had a mango juice and Christian a mango shake. We tried a Maldivian dish called kothu roshi. We also tried a non-alcoholic beer made in Saudi Arabia but that tasted more like sweet soda. We finished off the lunch with a cup of Lavaza Coffee. When the sun disappeared we went to Arena beach to have dinner. For dessert there was a strawberry mousse and pineapple cake. The latter was quite dry but the mousse was super yummy, quite surprisingly as mousses tend to be a tasteless disappointment otherwise. Nom nom. I would force everybody to watch this movie if I could. It sure changes the way you think about the world. I got up at 5 and packed my laundry that was still drying. It went much quicker than I anticipated so I was at Don Mueang airport 3 hours before meaning I had to wait a while before I could check in my bag… which by the way weights As I had to wait initially for 3 hours before Christian would arrive I put my bag into luggage storage and had some lunch. As I connected to Wifi I got messages from C saying that his flight was delayed and when I checked online I found out it was about 3 hours late which meant we would miss the boat at I spent half an hour talking to mom who demonstrated her new indoor shoes that she got from my aunt Maria, very convenient for cleaning the floor. I then sat down in the waiting area, wrote some blog and did some video editing, and tried to sleep whilst in a really wierd position half-laying down on my bag. Not really comfortable but I managed to daze out for a while listening to music. When I woke up it was still over an our before C was going to arrive but I went outside and sat looking over the blue water for a while before starting to look up in the sky to watch for his plane to get close. We had a mango slush while looking out over the ocean and later on we got dinner at the airport. We also went to the atm to get some Maldivian rufiyaa since it can be difficult to get money out while on the islands, and to the store to buy sunscreen for C. At The sky put an amazing show on display as we could see thousands of stars on it while traveling in the dark. Half an hour later we set foot on Maafushi where we were greeted by the owners of our hotel, Kokaa Mafushi. The reception was semi outside and the floor was actually sand. It was like we were outside yet under a roof. After a welcome drink and a cool towel we checked in to our room which was decorated very cutely, haha! Tomorrow we are going to take the public boat to our next destination! 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Maafushi buy coke

Maafushi grows larger. The rain is starting to let up, although the grey clouds remain. A similar gathering to that found on Guraidhoo awaits the arrival of the government ferry. The Maafushi coastline looks more promising than that of Guraidhoo , but your expectations are now quite minimal. A representative of the inn meets you, along with a luggage cart and umbrellas. He leads you to the inn as the sun starts to peak out from the clouds. After dropping off your luggage and checking in, you head south on foot. At the far southern end of Maafushi lays a prison complex; razor wire fencing and prisoners going about their day. You cut across the narrow island to the other side. Some boats bob in the water, and others are propped up on land with oil drums supporting the hulls. An islander arrives with a wheelbarrow of trash and dumps it; trash fires burn nearby. It is another reminder of the scourge of trash and the hardships of waste management on a small populated island. Many in the world are able to easily get it out of sight, but in the Maldives, options for doing so are quite limited. As you walk along the eastern side, you notice that the first line of buildings have no windows. It seems they are built with their backs to the sea. This seems quite strange until you realize that there was probably another line of houses with sea views that were destroyed by the tsunami in Towards the north of Maafushi there is a public beach. One local family is on it. There is a sign reminding beachgoers not to wear bikinis on the beach. The water is clear and there is a lack of trash on the beach, but the sand is less than optimal. Even still, it is a welcome sight coming from Guraidhoo. Hooking around the northern edge of the public beach and the island itself you find yourself with an empty public school on the left. You wander into it; it feels like a ghost town. Further along, crabs scurry on broken concrete—apparently more aftermath from the destructive tsunami. The walking is much more difficult here due to the piles of debris and coral. You contemplate turning back or finding a way into town by cutting through the walled-in school. You decide to forge on at least to see what is around the next corner. A fence runs almost to the water. You slink around it. On the other side, bikini-clad girls lounge on chairs in the sun, a couple swims holding each other in the clear water and powdery sand gleams white amidst swaying palm trees. Separating this small beach from town is a perimeter fence that runs the complete length. On the town-side of the fence you notice another sign warning of bikinis. The water is clear and warm, the waves very minimal. It is somewhat apparent that Bikini Beach is a false beach, built up over time with sand from somewhere else. The slope is very gradual, remaining shallow for much of the distance outward. Fish swim about. You are careful not to step on any of the dead coral patches. As you continue further out, the sand become less pronounced, the rocky outcropping more so. It holds your interest for an hour, watching some interesting fish swim about, some in schools, some solitary. You head back to shore past some Russian girls and a honeymooning couple. You gather your belongings and make the five minute trek to the public beach you discovered earlier on the other side of Maafushi. You drop your gear next to one of the oil-drum-propped ships and head into the water. The water depth is much more variable here, with deep drop offs and high ridges interspersed. The fish life is less so here, but the increased serenity here in comparison to Bikini Beach is a welcome advantage. When you look back to the coast, you see just the propped-up, weather-beaten ships—no sign of hotels or tourists. But once again, with a lack of waves, a lack of fish and a lack of great sand, you grow wary as the clouds start to darken, and leave shortly thereafter. It starts to rain, and when it rains on Maafushi, it is extremely hard to find something to do, unless you want to stick to mediocre beaches in the rain. You walk to a convenience store and find some snacks from Bangladesh and some chips from Malaysia, along with a soda. You pop open the bag and stand under an overhang watching the deluge. As it clears, you move to a stone wall and sit yourself on it. You notice some feisty house crows and start throwing them pieces of snacks. One keeps on winning the race. This continues for a good 15 minutes. As it is, this is one of the better ways you find to spend your time in Maafushi. Alcohol is forbidden in the inhabited islands of the Maldives. Nightlife, thus, on an island like Maafushi or Guraidhoo consists of medicore restaurants and wandering around. You sit in a chair for a while and watch couples eat at a candlelit restaurant on the water. It looks kitschy and manufactured, but the options are few and for any here on an economically-induced honeymoon, perhaps the best of bad choices. Eventually, the servers start packing up tables and chairs while one couple remains. An awkward procedure you watch for a bit before getting up to wander. You spot a pool table in a hotel and walk inside. Halfway through the second game the front desk clerk wanders over. You wander out around the corner, past a busy restaurant and down a street. You pass a shop for fruit juice and smoothies. You walk inside. You note that they have a bunch of flavouring syrups—not what you wanted to see. He blends one up and pours it into a glass. It is quite expensive and is quite bad. You hang out in the back of the smoothie shop killing time, sipping on the poorly balanced smoothie. It is another problem with life on an island, the lack of good produce. You wake up to an absolute downpour. Both a private ferry running direct between Maafushi and Male and the public ferry making one stop in between the two are scheduled to leave in the early morning. You leave your room looking for breakfast, but no one is around. A large, white freezer hums in the corner. You walk to it, open the lid and peer inside. A large, whole rock-hard tuna lies across the other frozen items. The rain continues to drive down. You watch out the window as other hotels drive their customers 30 seconds to the ferry dock. Others provide umbrellas or other amenities to keep people dry. You look around and are offered nothing but a wave goodbye. The umbrellas offered on arrival are nowhere to be found once they obtained your money. You step outside and, within 20 seconds, are completely drenched. What was dirt paths yesterday are ponds, and you slosh through it. The townspeople and tourists wait under a large open-air shelter near where the ferries dock. It is crowded and steamy, despite the blowing wind. You veer off to the left where the private ferry jerks in the water. You walk towards the pavilion now understand why the crowd is gathered there. Every piece of clothing and every surface of your skin is completely drenched. You look at the packed private ferry and realize that you are now one ferry away from being stuck on Maafushi for two full days. You start coming to terms with the idea of paying the couple hundred dollars for a motorboat out of this place. The private boat sets off into the choppy waters. There is no sign of the public government ferry, but the horizon is muddled and grey. You recall that the ferry dropped you off closer towards town, and not where the private ferry was, and so you head off closer in that direction with the hopes of a head start on everyone else. Under a blue tent, set up over a white plastic table, you seek refuge from the rain. The wind sends the rain at you regardless, but the additional discomfort seems reasonable given the stakes. Minutes turn to eternity with no ferry in sight. The ferry is now late by more than 30 minutes, and you have been outside for approximately 45 minutes now. Perhaps the ferry has been cancelled. With that thought in mind, you turn and walk through ever deepening water to a nearby hotel. You turn the knob and open the door, stepping inside the nicely decorated but unstaffed lobby. You pull up a plastic chair towards the door, sit down and watch the horizon. Another ten minutes goes by and then you see movement in the grey. You quickly slide the chair back to its original place and set back off through the newly-formed pond to where the ferry docked upon arrival. The ferry enters the harbour and turns to its port side. You now realize that the ferry is actually heading to the docking position adjacent to the pavilion. You immediately set off for the ferry but are now in a race against the mob from the closer-set pavilion. Your plan has backfired. The ferry arrives into Male along with the torrential rains. Whereas the private ferry set off from Jetty 1 along the northern coastline, the government ferry dock is on the southwest corner. This is just another scourge of missing the private ferry, as your walk is now a nearly direct diagonal across the whole of Male, rather than a few minutes down. The streets are flooding, thick streams of turgid water. Motorbikes drive through splitting the pooled liquid to either side. Having never dried from Maafushi, you are in no worse condition. The upside, however, is that Male is much more picturesque than the island of Maafushi due to its colourful character and characters. Thus, even in the rain, you can find great entertainment in the daily life. It is a highlight of the day as you splash through the streets on your way to the airport ferry. You are glad to be back in Male. Because the island is so small, you don't really need much of an address. Colours are splashed all about you, as you walk the stone-laid streets towards the harbor. There are several methods of getting around the… Visiting Male, Maldives and a place to eat The Maldives. Yes, the water in the Maldives really is really blue but we will get into that in the coming weeks. Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. The following two tabs change content below. Bio Latest Posts. Tak New York, NY. Internationally-published photographer with a passion for creative food, fine products, unique cultures and underground music. Latest posts by Tak see all. There are several methods of getting around the…. Having just exited customs, which includes a cursory x-ray scan of your belongings illegal items that this cursory…. Hugo Martins says:. Reply to Hugo. Tak says:. Reply to Tak. 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Maafushi buy coke