MDMA в Клине

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What follows is, of course, a work of pure fiction. In it, I have tried to illustrate something of the mental state of an individual whose mind was severely altered when he took his first dose of ecstasy and decided that he would love to take more. Doctor Drool, the protagonist, was paranoid about taking street drugs, but was quite confident of his own abilities in a chemistry lab, although he had not exercised those abilities for 20 years. He was moderately well trained in chemistry in the university two full years of inorganic and organic classes with labs , but he had not done or even thought about lab work for many years. Any relationship between the methods described by Doctor Drool and reality are, of course, completely coincidental, but to make the story more believable, I have included text from actual web pages, perhaps written by real degenerates, not like the fictional Doctor Drool. I hope you enjoy the story. I initially tried to follow the BrightStar synthesis that I found on the internet but the only part that was reasonable was for the distillation of safrole from the raw sassafras oil. I later found other syntheses on the internet for all the steps between legal chemicals and MDMA that worked quite well. At least at the current time early , all the chemicals and apparatus mentioned here are available legally. Aside from the ecstasy, of course, the only other intermediate products that you will produce along the way that are at the least highly suspicious are the pure, distilled safrole and the ketone MDPP. The unfortunate thing about the ketone is that although you probably have a million good places to hide the ecstasy and the safrole, the MDPP must be kept in the freezer. The folks from the DEA know this. Luckily, the ketone is only necessary for the final synthesis, so I made it just before I needed it, and then repeated the final step until the ketone was all used up. Make certain that you have or know you can obtain all of the stuff chemicals and apparatus before you begin. For example, at the time BrightStar wrote his synthesis, it may have been easy to obtain dimethylformamide; now, it is not. My overall impression is that the synthesis is moderately difficult, at least for someone who last took an organic chemistry lab course more than 20 years ago. I was quite good in the labs back then, and also understood the chemistry quite well. I took the time to understand to a pretty good degree the chemistry in this synthesis. Understand how they work. If you are without experience but would still like to try, remember that most junior colleges offer lab courses in organic chemistry. This stuff is in no particular order -- there may be more important stuff following less important stuff. This process is going to take a long time. Even if you had all the stuff you needed, it takes a few days. The BrightStar synthesis led me to believe that the entire process might just take a couple of long days. I think it took me a month between purchasing the first chemical and 'rolling' for the first time on my own stuff. I hope these notes will reduce your time significantly. You can check yourself as you go along. Note the expected colors, consistency, et cetera. One of the referenced documents on the web contains photos from the final production of MDMA from the ketone and nitromethane. Almost all the precursors are poisonous, right? Even though MDMA tastes pretty shitty, when my stuff tasted the same as the real stuff, it was the best-tasting thing in the world! Then try a half dose, then the whole thing. I think that at least most of them are not highly specific tests; they simply indicate that the chemicals are in some general class. Your precursors are all MDMA precursors, so the test kit is far more likely to 'see' MDMA-like chemicals than other stuff, even if you totally screwed up. The only reaction that scared the shit out of me was the distillation of the nitromethane from the RC fuel. I did it outdoors, and for that one had the pin pulled on the fire extinguisher all the time. Safety glasses or at least regular glasses, if you wear them are a good idea for many steps. Although I thought I was being careful, I was not highly amused after working with the concentrated NaOH solution to find about a hundred tiny holes in my pants after washing them. I apparently splattered them with NaOH, and it ate a bunch of little holes Get the right stuff if you can. Get technical grade methanol, xylene, et cetera. Similarly, muriatic acid is easy to get from a pool supply store, and get the nitromethane mixed with methanol and castor oil at a hobby shop. At the lab supply place, ask for the safety sheets on one or two of the chemicals. Similarly, in the hardware store, ask for 'DampRid', not 'anhydrous calcium chloride'. I know it feels like the time you were 16 years old and went into the drugstore to get 'some chewing gum, some lifesavers, Have enough ice on hand for the job. Again, ice is relatively cheap, so get an extra bag for each session. In addition to running ice water through the condenser for distillations, I also used ice in the bucket I used to recycle water through the aspirator. Ice water makes for a better vacuum, and the better the vacuum, the better your vacuum distillations will work. Remember that even when you are just using ice to cool a reflux column, you sometimes need to cool it for up to eight hours. In fact, do those outside if you can definitely outside with the HCl. And do use very clean glassware! Get silicone grease to seal the distillation joints during vacuum distills. If you turn on the pump and it leaks, turn off the pump, re-seal, and restart. Brightstar, for example, recommends vaseline, instead of the silicone grease but I figure why not shell out a couple of bucks more and get exactly what works best. Before you start a process, be sure you know exactly how to do it. If you are the least unsure, do a dry run before you commit the real chemicals. For example, just put water into the system and go through the motions the first time. I did a distillation of eugenol from oil of cloves just to make sure I knew how to do a vacuum distillation of an oil with a high boiling point before I committed my precious sassafras oil. Be sure to get a good collection of jars that are easy to pour from. Guess how I learned this? The Pyrex measuring cups are great for pouring. Check them by pouring water from them before you put in stuff that you care about. Beware of breaking the plug on the separatory funnel. Guess who broke his? In fact, the glassware is all moderately delicate, so try to do anything you can to avoid putting it at risk. If you really are just beginning, hook up your various glassware arrangements over a soft bed the first time. Make sure stuff is securely clamped. Read everything you can before you start. I read and re-read the entire synthesis many times, and then before I started any single step, I re-read it again, and kept a copy next to me as I worked. If you screw them up, you waste ALL your work. After I got the first working batch, I confess that I did the second batch in a 'modified' state of mind, and it worked fine. I was able to keep everything in mind and under control, and, if anything, was able to concentrate better on what I was doing. I may easily have left something off this list; be sure to read the individual parts of the synthesis. The recommended amounts below allow for a bunch of mistakes. Be sure it all fits together. Read through the appropriate section before you begin using any technique. The manual recommended by many illicit chemists is this: Others work fine, too. For me, at least, it was critical to have something like the 'CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics' or the 'Merck Index' to look up physical properties especially boiling points of such things as methanol, acetone, safrole, eugenol, You can find lots of this apparatus on the internet, and can sometimes get good prices on places like Ebay on used glassware. I was not lucky, so became the proud owner of yet another piece of glassware. The pump basically recirculates water through an aspirator as fast as it can using water in a 5 gallon plastic bucket. To get a higher vacuum, there was always ice in the bucket. There are a couple of photos on the web of designs for good vacuum pumps that recirculate water. I mounted my pump to a board and then attached pieces of PVC pipe to make an output that sprayed into the bucket, and an input that sucked water from the bucket. I did not, therefore, need to drill any holes in the bucket as was proposed in at least one of the web designs. The suction also seemed to be vastly better if there was a baffle in the plastic bucket to keep the air bubbles from getting sucked into the input of the pump. Distilled the sassafras over peanut oil in a ml flask in 2 passes. The result was about ml of safrole from 1 quart of sassafras oil. Bought nitro fuel for RC engines at a model hobby shop. Had to do a fractional distillation using a vigreaux column. The fuel is a mixture of methanol, nitromethane, and castor oil. This discrepancy is probably due to the fact that methanol and nitromethane forms an azeotrope. Nitromethane is the 'nitro' in 'nitro-burning dragsters' -- you know, those drag-racing cars with all the flames coming out. This is not something of concern. The flash point of a substance is simply the lowest temperature at which you can ignite a substance. Gasoline has a flash point at several tens of centigrades below zero for example. It does not mean that the compound will spontaneously ignite or detonate, just that you should avoid sparks or open flames which is a good rule at all times in a lab. I tried to distill with a vacuum, and it was very difficult with boiling stones, since there would be a huge 'bump' as a huge chunk boiled at once, which reduced the pressure, which had to build up for another huge bump. It is not practical to vacuum distill nitromethane, as there is too much loss of product down the drain using an aspirator as vacuum or into your pump oil. I tried the long-term stirring of the PdCl 2 in methanol for 6 or 7 hours before adding the water and the p-benzoquinone. You can get the p-benzoquinone and PdCl 2 from photography supply places. I never needed to add heat -- just a slow addition and then a long wait afterwards 8 hours to be sure everything reacted. Stirred the whole time. I used gravity filtration in a coffee filter to get rid of the hydroquinone, and then put the filter in a zip-lock bag and squeezed it to get out the last drops. When I washed with the sodium bicarbonate, I had a lot of crud on the interface between the DCM and the methanol fractions, but it was workable. I finally froze it to break it up. I only did one NaCl wash since it was such a pain. Maybe it would be better not to shake the mixture so hard in the separatory funnel. Or maybe it would be better to use distilled H 2 O for the mixes. Did it with a stir-bar and it worked OK unless I lost vacuum. Stir bar works much better than boiling stones, especially under vacuum. I had problems cleaning the RBF afterwards, due to some charred shit. I read later that the best way to clean this is to add some paint thinner mineral spirits and clean with that FIRST, before you try stuff like soap and water and strong acids, strong bases, et cetera. The reason I used this approach is that I was totally unable to make the methylamine hydrochloride methylammonium chloride, MA. HCl by any method. In all cases, I was able to make what were probably mixtures of MA. I even made a bunch of chloroform to clean out other impurities which you should do , and that was a pain in the butt and perhaps a bit dangerous, too. The problem is that the ammonium chloride will cheerfully react by the same mechanism as the MA. There was never a problem with run-away reactions, and I always got a happy result. The full version is a little more tempermental, left more aluminum junk, but worked fine, too. Do this reaction at the end of the day, and let the final stuff sit around all night to make sure the reaction is complete. If you try to do it after just, say, four hours, there will be some aluminum fragments that are still bubbling in the NaOH, and these are a real pain in the butt during the separations. Wait overnight and everything is cool I used not only heavy aluminum foil, but the 'Extra Heavy Reynolds Wrap'. Even with the paper shredder and coffee grinder, it takes surprisingly long to make enough little foil balls to run the reaction. After the reaction, I poured the grey sludge into large gallon-sized bottles, and added the xylene xylene works fine instead of toluene, by the way to the bottle. Then I did all the shaking in there before pouring the stuff in a separatory funnel. I tried the washes with tap water and there was always a lot of gunk. I made a bunch of batches and kept them sealed tightly in a jar. I also ground the stuff to a powder using a mortar and pestle. I might try a coffee grinder next time. I used a hair-dryer to dry the bottles that were to contain the anhydrous stuff after the acetone wash, of course. I had two bad experiences with HCl generators before I figured out how to do it. This is the way: Add NaCl lots, non-iodized to a two-necked flask. A big one 2 liters is good. Wet the NaCl with HCl, but not too much no puddles. Plug a vigreaux column with glass wool cut from a heater filter , and pour the column full of CaCl 2 Damp-Rid pellets. Then put the thermometer adapter with a tube instead of a thermometer mounted in it into the top of the column. Into the other neck of the main flask, put in an addition funnel with concentrated sulfuric acid. All joints should be greased with silicone lubricant. Use the silicone grease throughout. Even at the end, when I thought there were no longer any mistakes to make, I screwed this up. I tried to powder the CaCl 2 to get better surface area, and then tried to pump through too much HCl gas too quickly. The powder was too fine, it plugged the gas, and finally a giant belch of gas, H 2 O, and CaCl 2 was dumped into the xylene and it totally fucked up the batch. I found, to my horror, that the 'aquarium rock' that I added to the end of the tube to make lots of tiny bubbles dissolves in xylene. I had great success with nothing but a hollow tube. At some point, usually after about 3 gassings, the stuff in the xylene starts getting a yellow tinge and then starts to stink like HCl maybe water in the xylene? Anyway, I did it in three passes, and as soon as I saw a tiny amount of yellow, I quit. You can use the slightly yellowed stuff -- wash it with acetone, but the more yellow and the more stink, the more of the real product seems to disappear and be dissolved in the water. When you get the final stuff -- MDMA mixed with xylene -- get as much xylene as you can out of it on a vacuum filter returning the xylene, possibly, for another passing of the HCl gas. Then, over the vacuum, put in a few jolts of acetone. This dissolves not only the yellow crap if there is any , but tends to pull out the xylene and things dry quite rapidly. I got on the time I made the fewest errors about 18 grams of MDMA dried from the acetone from 25 ml of ketone. I did not recrystallize this 'raw product', since it looked snow-white to me. It does have a faint odor safrole? Even if your product looks pure and snow-white to you, please do yourself and your friends a favor and recrystallize the product. The bioassay was extremely successful I tested perhaps mg of acetone-washed product on a human subject weighing about pounds. This was a pain. What I finally wound up doing was to take the pile of dried stuff, chopped it with a razor, crushed it with a piece of shiny plastic, chopped again, and got pretty good dust. Then I packed the dust in the most consistent repeatable possible way into capsules. Then I counted the capsules, weighed the whole mess, then weighed that many empty capsules. Thus I determined the dose for each, and wrote that down with the capsules. If you divide the mg into thirds, you know that each is about 90mg, et cetera. A method to measure a known quantity is with an empty capsule and a cylindrical stick or something to pack the stuff solidly into the bottom. I used a drill index and was able to find a perfect sized drill bit for my capsules. Then you can measure the height of the stuff in the capsule pretty accurately. I made a big error the first time I was loading a bunch of powder into capsules. It took a fair amount of time, and I took a bunch of breaks. The next time I was fairly anal about doing the whole job all at once, followed by a single final lick, and then mg from a capsule, just to make sure. This file is a part of the Rhodium site archive. This Aug static snapshot is hosted by Erowid as of May and is not being updated.

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