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I started today feeling optimistic and excited about the day ahead. It was clear that I would be on flat roads once again and I felt that I was now deep into Albania proper. The season was clearly coming to an end as the hotel was beginning its refitting work and after picking my way through the builders in the swimming pool area I began to set up the bike out in the car park. Somehow or other the panniers had decided to begin falling apart and the right-hand side needed to be attached to the bike with a spare bungee cord. I was headed in the direction of Vore hoping to shadow the motorway and skirt around Durres before heading south again. I needed to avoid the town centre but ended up riding aimlessly around it looking for my next objective. While this was frustrating in the moment, I eventually regained my route and it did mean that I passed and repassed the most interesting building on the trip. Someone had decided to build a fibreglass waterfall onto the side of their house and pumped water to the top story to provide a constant flow down to the pool on the ground. A little further down the road I passed a warehouse guarded by an enthusiastic dog. Upon seeing me he began sprinting through the complex paralleling my direction of travel, but separated by the fence. This is fairly common for dogs to do and they usually come up short at the end of the yard, however, this fellow had found a hole and he was able to get out onto the road and up quite close to my back wheel. I gave it maximum effort for a good few hundred yards and eventually his panting receded, and he gave up the chase. The road was taking me due west towards the Durres with the motorway off to my right. I had been very happy with Albanian roads so far, but I now came across a short section taking me into that city which fully complied with the stereotype of potholed tracks left unmaintained for decades. There was plenty of traffic, including some buses which must surely have given their passengers an awful commute trying to negotiate this ploughed field of road. I did not intend to go into Durres proper but instead to skirt around the edge of the city and find the highway heading south. My direction was Kavaje and fortunately this was easy enough to pronounce. I paused by what looked to be the beginning of the route and quizzed three old men sitting around in a car park as to whether my guess was correct. They pointed in the right direction and nodded their confirmation that the road was okay for bikes. They were a little surprised when I told them I was English using the Italian word for my nationality. For most of the rest of the afternoon I was on a local access road separated from the main highway by a large crash barrier. Most of the way it was smooth tarmac but occasionally it descended into a hardcore track and sometimes simply ran out when reaching the edge of a flyover. On one occasion I was forced to lift the bike over the barrier and cycle down the hard shoulder of the dual carriageway for a mile or two before I could get back onto the safer option. My first pause was the least friendly place I encountered in Albania, where a woman refused to serve me a drink as she was busy watching a soap opera. I eventually helped myself to something from the fridge and she charged me 2 euros for a can of local lemonade. Their 5. It is common to see many types of roadkill in the gutter when cycling and I was already used to seeing cats, dogs, rabbits etc but today provided a new casualty in the form of a dead tortoise. An unusual and depressing sight, although I was later cheered by a gaggle of very-much-alive geese negotiating their way across the pavement and down into a stream. I settled on Lushnje as my destination for today and was expecting to remain on the access road for most of the remaining miles. Unfortunately, it eventually ran out completely and again I was lifting my bike over the barriers to complete the last 10 miles on a road I was technically barred from using. No one seemed to care, however, and the traffic was no worse than a typical UK dual carriageway. The streets were full of trees and there were a lot of large modern buildings. The central square was a little dated and had a large communist statue as its centrepiece, as well as various busts of presumably legendary communist figures and national heroes. I propped my bike up outside one of the cafes lining the square and enjoyed a rest in the last of the afternoon sun. Logging onto Booking. The roasting hot firehose of a shower was a fabulous way to revive myself, although I just about managed to flood the entire bathroom in the process. I let them down gently by explaining that I was not on the tourist trail but just passing through. It did seem to them quite unusual to have an English tourist of any type in the area, so they were gracious all the same. After eating most of pizza I was ready for my bed and called it a night. The flat terrain had enabled me to clock 65 miles today. I'm a big fan of long distance solo rides, usually without any support and often just using a paper map. Here are a few of the rides I've done, which you might find interesting. View all posts by rodgers Skip to content. Share this: Twitter Facebook. Like Loading Published by rodgers Published November 26, November 26, Previous Post Day Four — Rain!? Next Post Day Six — Vlore. Leave a comment Cancel reply. Comment Reblog Subscribe Subscribed. Passing Through to Corfu. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website. Design a site like this with WordPress.