Latex Oil
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Latex Oil
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Eddie founded Pro Painters in 1995 to meet the growing need for high-quality residential and commercial painting needs in Houston. In nearly 20 years, Pro Painters has exponentially grown our client base, serving residents across the greater Houston area. Our core principles have helped us achieve the highest standard of workmanship and customer satisfaction. Our years of experience have allowed us to become an extension to our customers as the all-in-one solution for home makeovers.
5444 Westheimer Rd. Suite 200 Houston, TX 77056 Phone: (832) 831-7591 Fax: (832) 433-7623
One of the most common mistakes in painting is applying oil over latex paints. Although, despite this simple rule, it can raise other concerning factors: can you use a waterborne alkyd over latex paint and vice versa? And if so, does it require a primer? Today we will discuss these concerns as well as give a quick tutorial on how the process should be executed. If you have any questions about this blog or any other paint related inquiries, please contact your local Houston Interior Painting ?experts , Pro Painters, for additional information.
Sometimes it can be difficult to determine if it?s safe to apply oil paint over latex paint, but we assure you, overtime it will ruin your surface. Due to the flexible qualities of latex paint and the brittle characteristics of aged oil paint, it can eventually split and crack the painted surface. Another concern is whether or not it?s safe to apply waterborne alkyds over latex. Waterborne alkyds are a low-VOC paint that provide a clean durable finish and are mainly used for wooden cabinetry. They are available in odor-free options and can safely be applied over latex paints. Although, perhaps one of the best features about alkyds aside from providing protection to your surface, is that you rarely have to apply a primer on top.
If you plan on using waterborne alkyd paint over latex paint we first suggest that you thoroughly clean the surface you will be working with. This is a key factor. The surface must be free of all dust and grime as well as any wax, oil, grease, or mildew. In addition, try your best not to have any soap or water soluble materials left over from the cleaning. You want it to be bone dry. If there are any peeling flakes or blemishes in the surface, you?re going to need to properly sand off these areas so everything is clean, crisp, and uniform. Next, begin applying your alkyd paint. It is best to use a nylon/polyester brush or roller. Also, you should consider setting up additional ventilation in your work area to ensure that the paint dries rapidly.
Painting can be fun and easy, but it is always good to thoroughly research the materials you will be working with. In addition to understanding the safety information, it will help you prevent any possible future damages to your surface. And remember, never apply oil paints over latex unless you are using a waterborne alkyd which will safely coat the more flexible layer beneath. Although, to fully ensure the job is done right, we highly recommend you utilize the expertise of a Commercial Painting Contractor .
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5444 Westheimer Rd. Suite 200 Houston, TX 77056
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“Should I use oil or latex paint?” It’s a question I get asked a lot. Oil vs latex, the two paints are very different, and each has their strengths and weaknesses. In this post, I’ll try to help you figure out when and where each type of paint will excel so you can make the right decision for your project.
The landscape of painting has been changing quickly since the introduction of latex paint by Sherwin Williams in 1941. For hundreds of years, paint was mixed on site by the local painters adding a little linseed oil, colorant (usually lead), some whiting and driers. Most paints were custom formulated by the painter of that region.
With the advent of premixed oil paints in the mid-1800s, paint manufacturers began to rapidly improve the consistency and quality of their oil-based paints. By the early 1900s, oil paints were incredible products that leveled beautifully, created hard durable finishes, and held up to the harshest conditions.
Unfortunately, oil-based paint’s heyday was short lived and for the last 40 or so years due to increased regulation and air-quality restrictions the quality of most oil-based paints has suffered. Manufacturers have focused on improving their lines of latex paint and neglected their oil paints other than the reformulation occasionally required to keep them in compliance with new regulations.
The results have been a mixed bag, in my opinion. While we’ve gotten a vastly improved selection of higher performing latex paints, our options of oil paints that still perform like they did before regulation changed their formulation to less effective coatings is now minuscule.
Though there are fewer options, there are still times when I prefer a good oil-based paint. My use of oil-based paint has largely been limited to enamels in recent years because no matter how hard I search, I cannot find a latex paint with the same performance as a good old-fashioned oil-based enamel.
Oil-based enamels provide for a glassy smooth finish and are as hard as nails, but the biggest advantage to me is that once dry, they prevent blocking. Blocking is when two painted surfaces stick together. This happens on doors and windows, and usually results in ugly gummy corners on doors.
When I paint windows, doors, and trim I want the hardest, least tacky, and most durable surface I can get, and that is usually an oil-based enamel. As far as paint technology has come, they still have not figured out how to make a latex paint as hard and smooth as oil paints.
In these high traffic areas, latex paints peel or scuff too easily and don’t clean as well as their oil-based cousins, so, as of today, there’s really no contest for me.
I want you to think very carefully about this complex scientific formula I’m about to give you:
Have you got it? Good! Metal is not a good candidate for latex paint which is water based. No matter how much they improve the formulations and technology, they are still based on water suspension, and anytime you put water on metal, you have the potential for creating rust.
There are a lot of specialized paints that are designed specifically for metal surfaces. Anticorrosive metal primers or DTM (direct-to-metal) paints are just a couple. They may not be available at the counter of every paint store, but they are around, and if you are planning to paint something like a cast iron tub, steel windows or some metal railings, then this is your best option.
About the only time I use latex primers is on plaster or drywall. All the rest of my priming is done almost exclusively with oil-based primer. Why? Because when you don’t know what the previously painted surface is (Is it old oil-based, latex, milk paint, etc?) there are conditions and surfaces that a latex primer will not bond well with.
You need the security of a good bond with your primer, and oil-based primers have excellent adhesion and are the best option when changing from oil to latex or latex to oil. They will bond to either, and are the recommended base coat for both a latex or oil topcoat.
Latex paint is everywhere today and super easy to find a huge variety of products. Today’s paints are not technically “latex” like the original water based paints developed in the 1940s and 1950s. Most are now 100% acrylic, which is a big improvement over their predecessors.
I’ll refer to these paints as water-based paint from here on out, because that’s a better description of what they are, and that name plays into their biggest advantage. They are water clean up! Not to mention some of the other benefits like the fact that they are more color fast than most current oil-based paints available and their increased flexibility helps them last longer.
The reality is that today, water-based paints are usually a better choice for most common painting situations like:
The list may seem short, but if you think about it, that encompasses almost everything on a house. While I did mention that windows, doors, and woodwork are the items I prefer to paint with a good oil-based enamel, these items could just as easily be painted with water-based paints. My personal preference doesn’t mean it isn’t done everyday all across the country this way.
There really isn’t a place today where a water-based paint can’t be used. Are there better options sometimes? Yes. But the huge array of water-based formulations makes it easy to keep all your painting in the water-based family if you want to.
It’s not a battle of oil vs latex, because they both have their place. Water-based paints (in my opinion) really excel in several ways that their oil-based counterparts today do not. And that’s what I’m really comparing here. Oil-based paints made before the mid 1800s were a completely different breed. Their ingredients were simpler and hard to compare to modern paints.
In a lot of ways, I prefer those old paints. Linseed oil paints could be renewed again and again over the years without scraping and stripping. There weren’t as many color options or sheen options, but the really old school paints were excellent at what they did and were some of the greenest products way before green was cool.
Even the first solvent based oil paints, though they were heavy on the fumes and filled with lead, they performed better than most of the coatings we have today. Lead paint covered very well with fewer coats, the lead prevented mildew growth (a major problem on oil-based paints today), and it gave the paints extraordinary flexibility to help them last a long, long time.
Sure, lead will kill you eventually if you ingest enough of it, but there is a reason it is still used in industrial paints today. It makes for an incredibly effective paint.
With easier clean-up, lower VOCs, and ever improving performance, I would wager that in my lifetime we may sadly see the end of oil-based paints for anything other than an artist’s palette. But while I’m alive, I’ll be showing people the benefits and nuances of working with oils because I feel there is still a place for them in our homes.
I love old houses, working with my hands, and teaching others the excitment of doing it yourself! Everything is teachable if you only give it the chance.
Hi why would latex out perform on porch floors? Just curious . I do use a lot of oil based for indoor painting like railings, stairs and my plywood floor in a laundry room. Thanks!
I have painted my walls and ceilings with a water based paint. We used osb board for the walls and ceilings. After I painted months later the white paint started having yellow here and their like in blotches or spots and the nails we used turned rusted. I really need to know what will be best for me to use on my walls and ceilings for white paint either latex or oil based paint?
I was at The Home Depot today and wanted some Kilz 2 Complete oil based primer and they told me that no oil based paint or primer is allowed to be sold in Pennsylvania. I’m trying to restore all of my house’s wooden double hung windows and had to buy Kilz 2 interior/exterior latex primer. Can this primer be used successfully on my old wood windows? I have Dual Glaze to reglaze my window panes, but since it contains linseed oil, can I use Dual Glaze over Kilz 2 interior/exterior latex primer?
>”Water + Metal = Rust
>
>Have you got it? Good! Metal is not a good candidate for latex paint which is water based. No matter how much they >improve the formulations and technology, they are still based on water suspension, and anytime you put water on metal, >you have the potential for creating rust.”
I plan on painting my factory painted aluminum roof which paint should use
I’ve got a question about covering lacquer finished trim that is 70 years old, I started by deglossing and in some cases sanding down the really oxidized areas then I primed it will kills 2 and painted with latex. The problem is it bleeds through and took 6 coats if paint after 2 coats if primer, would I have been better off using sm oil based primer? I have more casings to do any help is appreciated.
The best way to stop that bleed is with Pigmented shellac primer. That’s the only thing I’ve found to work consistently.
Hi. M trying to figure out what paint to use for window seats and for stair case railing? For reference, window seat base is MDF that has been coated with semi glass paint .. and it just keeps getting dirty. I don’t know whether it is not having used the right paint or is it the MDF. I came across your blog looking for a way to resolve this. Thinking about two options att his point 1) use oil based paint, with primer? or 2) get another layer similar to one cabinet makers use on top of window base to get of this problem.
I appreciate your comments. Thanks much!
Hi!
I live in South Florida and I want to repaint my garage floor. When I painted my kitchen cabinets I used an oil-based primer (Benjamin Moore) followed by a latex paint and they were indestructible, but this is technically exterior and we have a lot of humidity (100%!) so would a latex primer be better?? Any one in particular that you recommend?
Thank you!
Pam
Galvanized iron sheet roof of our office is getting rusted due to heavy rainfall (>5000 mm). I have decided to first paint it with zinc chromate primer and later on painting with synthetic enamel oil based paint …will it be okay? Pls suggest
I’m painting kitchen cabinets. Is it better to use an oil based paint vs latex? If so,why? The cabinets have been cleaned with Paso and primed with Schwerin Williams 295.
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A fresh coat of exterior paint does wonders for the look of a home, revolutionizing its curb appeal while adding a valuable layer of protection against the elements. Selecting the best paint for an interior exterior job might seem overwhelming, until you gain a little background.
In recent years, paint technology has advanced by leaps and bounds, leaving today’s homeowners spoiled for choice when it comes to products that are not only durable, but also resistant to mold, mildew, and dirt—the trio of threats that most commonly undermine the longevity of an exterior paint job.
If you are trying to decide whether to choose oil or latex paint—with latex as the generic term for all non-oil-based paints—the question may no longer be a relevant one: The latest and greatest paint formulations are more often than not water based.
“In the past, oil-based paints were the standard for exterior projects,” explains Karl Schmitt of Sherwin-Williams . Times have changed, however. Superior performance characteristics are now to be found among water-based products.
“There are some real benefits to using water-based paint,” Schmitt says. These include “improved adhesion performance, mold and mildew resistance, and low VOC emissions.” Another important benefit of water-based paints: They more or less extend the exterior painting season. It used to be that “you couldn’t paint if the temperature was below 50 degrees.” Those days are gone. Improved formulations permit successful painting even on days as cold as 35 degrees.
Noor Aweidah of Valspar cites further advantages of water-based paint: “shorter dry time, better coverage, and easier cleanup.” Duramax, the top-of-the-line exterior paint manufactured by Valspar, even features paint and primer in one application. What it all adds up to, she says, is a “just-painted look” that lasts for an impressively long time.
With latex paint, outdoor DIYers have more flexibility regarding when they paint, especially with the opportunity to apply the paint on colder days. It’s also more convenient, but does not trade convenience at the detriment of the environment. Latex paint is more eco-friendly than oil-based paint.
Latex paint doesn’t yellow with time and sun exposure like oil-based paints can. The more eco-friendly water-based option also is more widely available, and for a reason. In summary:
There are a few disadvantages to using exterior latex paint. Because it is water based, it covers some materials differently than oil-based paints will. When painting wood, the latex paint can cause swelling to the extent it requires sanding before applying the next coat.
It doesn’t necessarily cover or last on exterior surfaces as well as oil-based paint can. Painting over darker colors can require a second coat. In general:
Schmitt continues, “Some professional painters believe oil-based paints deliver a better finish.” But unless the surface to be painted is distressed (for example, weathered wood or rusty metal), Schmitt maintains that “a water-based paint is the best option for the average do-it-yourself homeowner.” Whereas “oil-based paints tend to yellow and become brittle over time,” high-quality water-based paints, such as Sherwin-Williams Emerald, retain a smooth and uniform appearance for years.
Oil-based paints served as the favorite indoor and outdoor coating for hundreds of years. Paint companies continued to improve their effectiveness. In general, oil-based paints hold up better than water-based ones, so they cover more thoroughly and last longer. Oil-based paints can:
With their less sustainable ingredients, oil-based paints have been on the decline for some time. Even adjustments to paint formulas has not improved satisfaction, causing exterior oil-based paints to be more difficult to apply and some lighter colors to yellow in a short time.
Many states have regulated or banned their use, mostly because of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) in the formulas as additives of solvents. The VOCs vaporize as the paint dries and for the most part, oil-based paints can present a health hazard for humans. Still, check the product details; low-VOC and no-VOC exterior oil-based paints are available. Disadvantages of oil-based paints include:
Before undertaking an exterior painting project, Aweidah recommends that you take several factors into account. “Weather is the first thing to consider.” Start by figuring out the right time to paint. “For best results,” she says, “an air temperature and surface temperature of 50 degrees is ideal.
“It’s also important to prepare for the project and use high-quality paint.” Cover these bases, and “any exterior paint project [will be] doable for any DIYer.”
Sherwin-Williams’s Schmitt concludes, “Buy the highest-quality paint you can afford.” Chances are “the more expensive paint will last substantially longer, which means that in the long run, the pricier product “represents a much better value.”
Yes, and no. You can’t just walk over to a painted wall and add the new latex color on top of the oil. But with a little preparation, you can add a layer of latex over an oil-based painted surface. This involves sanding to
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