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La Digue Liveaboard Diving

La Digue buy powder

I had my eye on the Seychelles for some time—the archipelago of sun-soaked islands in the Indian Ocean, 1, miles off the coast of East Africa. And during the pandemic, it ended up being exactly what we needed from a family vacation. My husband, 1. We explored the beaches with their signature granite boulders and clear warm water. We snorkeled alongside neon tropical fish, a stingray, and a needlefish. We hiked through dense jungles, feeling sweaty and serene. The flavorful curries had me eager to buy fresh spices so I could recreate them at home. We met some of the most generous and relaxed people on the planet. Beyond the natural attractions, the country exuded a sense of casual peacefulness, which felt like a salve during this time. I could see why most of our fellow tourists—usually from Europe—were visiting the Seychelles for the 3rd, 7th, or even 12th time. The country was closed to international visitors for nearly a year, until March ; in the meantime, many people lost their jobs and relied on COVID relief from the government. But now, with about 80 percent of the country fully vaccinated and no required quarantine period for visitors, tourism seems to be getting back on its feet. David Germain, regional director of the Seychelles Tourism Board, says the country saw , visitors in , including 6, who visited directly from the United States. For comparison, the Seychelles had , visitors in Our trip lasted 12 glorious days, during which we stayed in three guesthouses. After a few days, we took the ferry to La Digue—via a pit stop in Praslin—and spent five days on this three-mile strip of boulder-studded beaches, shallows, and lush hills. It was the perfect amount of time to get a taste of the country, while leaving me a wish list of places to explore on my next visit. Left: A rare and highly protected coco de mer nut, which has given rise to several legends. Weighing in at over 40 pounds, it is the de facto symbol of the Seychelles. Given how vital tourism is for the economy, Seychelles is full of hotels, all-inclusive resorts, and self-catering holiday homes. We opted for the self-catering option throughout our stay: our favorite, Domaine Les Rochers in La Digue, was a family-run garden oasis minutes from the town center. The bungalow we rented felt cozy in the best sense: The bedding was comfortable and stylish, the wraparound porch was perfect for reading when it rained, and the well-appointed kitchen included some ingredients like oil, spices, and fresh fruit. My daughter spent the early mornings chasing the resident cats and chickens. We felt right at home. Hinduism is the largest non-Christian religion in the Seychelles. Right: A jungle bar selling coconut water near Anse Major. We ate well. We drank rum. And we made friends along the way. Seychelles beaches have the seemingly requisite pristine white sand and turquoise water, but even more striking are the large granite boulders and secret cove-like settings. On the other side of the island, the wide expanse of Anse Intendance features large crashing cerulean waves and a mountain backdrop. Great for surfers, less ideal for toddlers. Though most of the coral is sadly bleached, the bay is still home to colorful tropical fish and sea turtles. The beach offers silky sand and plenty of shade from indigenous takamaka trees. Anse Soleil is a small, picturesque cove beach on the other side of the island near the Four Seasons Resort that was harboring a multimillion-dollar yacht when we visited. The path alternated between climbing exposed rockface, with views of the azure ocean below, and trekking through a jungle. The trail spat us out onto a tiny beach rimmed by palm trees and boulders. The water was warm, someone had hung up a rope from a palm tree to swing on, and a tiny jungle bar sold fresh coconut water. I felt like I was in a movie. We later learned that the trail continued to two other beaches, that people sometimes grill seafood on the third beach, and that you could also arrive at the beach by boat taxi. Tip: Drive on the paved road past the official trailhead to where the trail actually begins, close to the hotel Calm Sorento. That will save you about 20 minutes of walking on pavement each way. The winding, mountainous San Souci Road is dotted with trailhead markers. We opted to trek Morne Blanc , a steep out-and-back trail to a great viewpoint, from where we could see half the island, neon blue water, and white paradise flycatchers soaring in the sky. Copolia Trail is another popular, and less intense, trail in this area. The website AllTrails is an exhaustive resource for walking enthusiasts. We carried our daughter in a baby carrier for most of these hikes. Bring ample water. Many people visit the Seychelles, stay in a resort, and leave having only had European-style food. My most memorable meal was at Le Jardin du Roi spice garden, on a hilltop in the center of the island. The set lunch menu—much of which was sourced from the garden—included a few appetizers, such as star fruit marinated in olive oil and breadfruit braised in coconut milk. The main course featured fresh fish, flavorful curries, and tenderly cooked lentils. You can buy packets of its curry powder before leaving. Entry to the garden comes with a map, which can serve as a guide around the verdant, untamed property. It features local artwork on the walls and a seafront view complete with an island to admire! We loved the melt-in-your-mouth red snapper, fried eggplant, and sweet potato mash. Finally, we had a lovely time at the Takamaka Rum Distillery , a family-run distillery making rum for about 20 years. We toured the medicinal gardens, learned about how rum was produced, and tasted six products—including white, brown, and spiced rums. It was 11 a. As we sipped the spirits, they gave us recipes for pina coladas, rum raisin ice cream, and mojitos. My travel style is to see fewer places for a longer time, and use that time to get a sense of what it would be like to live there. Built in , the market showcases vendors selling produce, specialty foods like giant cinnamon sticks and vanilla essence, and Seychelles souvenirs. I did feel a bit of culture shock in the market as I watched vendors wrap all the produce in plastic bags Kenya banned plastic bags in There was far more single-use plastic throughout the country than I anticipated, particularly bags and water bottles, especially considering that the Seychelles are in the middle of the ocean and boast some of the cleanest beaches in the world. According to Germain from the tourism board, the importation of single-use plastics has been banned as of February , and vendors are using up their supplies. There will be a gradual shift to paper bags and glass bottles over the coming years. Though the French formally ceded control of the islands to Britain in , the French influence has remained strong until today, in the Creole language and the cuisine. In , slavery was abolished throughout the British empire, and liberated people were able to get jobs on plantations in exchange for food and wages. We spent almost a week on this spit of land, and I would seriously consider renting a house and staying for a month or two. Luckily, the island has a small hospital, and the more developed island of Praslin is only 15 minutes away by ferry, in case anything were to go wrong. I have happy memories of cooking fresh eggs for breakfast, setting out on our bicycles with a loose plan, our daughter giggling when we went fast, and discovering something beautiful every day. It was the busiest beach we visited on our whole trip, but we were able to find a quiet spot for reading and napping. The atmosphere is surreal, with massive boulders that look golden at sunset. The water was so clear that you could see giant fish swimming by your ankles. We also enjoyed Anse Severe , particularly around sunset—though beware of sea urchins! I wish I had brought water shoes with me. Anse Patates has some of the bluest water I have ever seen, and lots of hidden spots between rocks to lay out a beach towel and read a book. One day, we rode our bicycles to Grand Anse , where the waves were even bigger than the boulders. There are trails from there to sister beaches, but a huge rainstorm had us cycling back to our guesthouse. The views made up for the unsure footing: between the viewpoints, we had a degree view of the area, including Praslin and the tiny islets surrounding La Digue. We enjoyed it so much that we returned for a second meal. Chez Jules is a classic Creole restaurant, an open-air straw hut located opposite Anse Banane on the northeast part of the island. It had an extensive menu, bold flavors, chile sauce that turned my ears hot, and friendly service. The nature park is home to over 1, endangered coco de mer trees, called as such because sailors first thought they grew in undersea forests, as well as the rare black parrot. At Pirogue Restaurant and Bar , we enjoyed grilled fish and Creole-style pasta. There are two main ways to travel between islands: ferry and airplane. We put stars next to all the beaches and hiking trails we wanted to check out, along with notes from people we met along the way. Commuting around La Digue is more fun: The tiny island has few cars, and the best way to get around is by bicycle, which you can rent from a few shops near the ferry. Alternatively, you can walk or hire a motorized buggy. I would spend more time on La Digue. Between the relaxed lifestyle and the wild beaches, the tiny island has a special place in my heart. And I would return to spend time with the warm-hearted people I met. Our trip did have a rocky start. International travel is complicated these days, and Seychelles is no exception. Trip Ideas. Travel Inspiration Beaches Islands. By Sarika Bansal. Copy Link copied. Photo by Sarika Bansal. Sarika Bansal. Natural Wonders. Water Sports. Looking for an Active Beach Trip? Check Out This Coastal Destination. Sponsored by Visit Corpus Christi. Sponsored by Visit Richmond. Where to Travel Next. Where to See Art and Music in Richmond. Sustainable Travel. Sponsored by Lufthansa Group. See More. Sign up for our newsletter. Subscribe to the Daily Wander newsletter. Email required. Holiday Travel. Katherine LaGrave. Stay Here Next. We Got an Early Look. Tim Chester. Outdoor Adventure. Matt Kirouac. Road Trips. Tanvi Chheda.

La Digue buy powder