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Anyway, over those first few days I kept pondering and mulling and then one day I bit the bullet. After showing me the rooms at the Poseidon, we had a chat and I took the opportunity to ask about the car hire. She tells me that after the weekend there are a lot of cars free so I could have my pick. Great, I choose a class A car for the following day. Anyway, I convince myself that Lipsi is small and relatively flat. She tells me that the key is in the car and gives us directions on how to get onto the main road above the town. We set off along the harbour front and follow the road to the left at a small church. All starts off well with Peter as my navigator giving me directions on Google Maps though TBH his sense of direction is as diabolical as mine! Inside the church, the icon of Mary is unusual in that Mary is holding a wooden cross with a crucified Jesus on it and not as she is usually portrayed, with babe in arms. The outward-looking view from the church is rich and verdant and close by there is a field of grapevines so there is obviously a good level of fertility on the island. The Lipsi Winery grow several types of grape including Fokiano which is the oldest indigenous grape in the Aegean. The wine that is produced on the island is highly commended and since the Italian occupation of the islands, the wine has been sent to the Vatican. Peter guides us to Tourkomnima Beach. Once parked up under tamarisk trees we get out and have a scout around. The beach is secluded with only a couple of people here. Tourkomnima is the name of the peninsula that divides Tourkomnima and Xerocampos beaches. We feel compelled to walk towards the little church of Agios Nikolaos that sits about a third of the way along the peninsula. Down below there is a small jetty where there are a couple of little motorboats moored up. At the back of the beach, there is a small cluster of houses with some signs of new development. As we reach the tip, the view looking backwards is quite something. Xerocampos Beach to the left and Tourkomnima to the right. We return to the car and retrace our track back up onto the main road towards Panagia Charou. Between the houses, I get a glimpse of what I now know was Chochlakora Beach and it looks gorgeous. I ask Peter to wind down his window and take some snaps whilst I keep an eye out for any unsuspecting traffic. This beach has a long stretch of tamarisk trees and I read later that the beach is rocky but with very clear water. I make a note to come back later if we have time. We are now back on the road above the town and we stop the car a couple of times to take some photographs. Peter does a little bit of his goat whispering. He loves animals and they love him. Back home in Egypt where his father has land, he was raised to tend sheep, goats and water buffalo from a young age. Just la short walk away there is an amazing view out to the little islet of Aspronisi! We opt for Kamares and follow the road along. The road suddenly becomes a rocky track and my nerves begin to jangle. Oh my God, this is going to be Kythira all over again! The roadside is banked up on either side. We continue down and hope for the best. Peter gives him a nonchalant wave giving the impression that we are here intentionally and we know what we are doing. He waves back. At the bottom of this dirt and gravel track is a cluster of pine trees providing enough shade to park under. Beyond the trees, we walk by a low wall that separates the trees from the beach. It appears to have been constructed using the natural stone from the surrounding area. Needless to say, the beach is rocky — very rocky. The dry stone walling technique has also been applied to create a seating area around a solitary tree which offers the only shade on the beach itself. Some thought has gone into making the beach comfortable but unfortunately, these structures have been left at the hands of the elements. Nonetheless, the turquoise, crystalline water and the outward-looking view across to the surrounding islets are beautiful. Just out from the shoreline, there are some unusual rock formations. I can see that plates of rock lie under the water and assume that as this breaks up through the movement of the water, it gets thrown back onto the beach. Entering the water would be a nigh-on impossible task. If you like solitude, and you can cope with a rocky beach then this may be the one for you. After walking the length of the beach we get back into the car. We decide to move from the northeast of the island to Platis Gialis Beach in the northwest. I begin to drive up the stone track, waving to the man on the digger as we go. We reach a patch in the road where the wheels are just spinning in the dust. After several goes at trying to move the car forward I realise that the spinning wheels are creating a rut. If I continue we may get stuck and have to dig our way out with our hands. As we are on a steep incline, I let gravity do its own thing and allow the car to slowly roll backwards keeping my foot on the brake to control it. As the wheels spun, clouds of dust were sent shooting through the open windows and nearly choked us in the process. Peter got out and tried to push it at one point. Besides, the car by now is well and truly stuck in a deep rut. All sorts of things were running through my mind. Surely the island has a tote truck? Although rather embarrassing, at this point any dignity we may have had has gone out of the window. Peter walks over to the man who has now climbed down from the digger. I can see Peter is using a lot of body language to explain our predicament though nothing really needs to be said whilst the man slowly drew on his cigarette taking it all in. About 5 minutes later Peter returns to the car. I exhale deeply and try and weigh up the possible outcomes. I can see that the man is speaking to someone on his phone. Maybe he knows someone with a utility vehicle — often the vehicle of choice on some islands. Maybe he will ask them to come and pull us to the top of the track. That will cost money but whatever it costs we will write it off and put it down to experience. We will sit and wait and see what unfolds — or even if anything unfolds at all. A long and nerve-wracking fifteen minutes later, out in the distance, we see three men striding across the landscape. In my mind, as I recount this, I imagine that the sky gets a little brighter and they are surrounded by flames. Think of Antonio Banderas in that famous scene in Desperado. They do a nod to the digger man who then leads them towards the forlorn-looking Celerio. The car is now covered in so much dust that it practically blends in with the landscape. He gets behind the wheel and the three men plus Peter push and shove the car until it has come loose from its rut. The smell of burning rubber is strong on the breeze. They push the car almost to the top of the track and for the last ten metres, it manages to propel itself onto level ground Phew! What an absolute relief. The three men depart as quickly as they arrived. He points down the track and says something about electricity. I can only assume that new power cables have been laid — hence the condition of the track but who knows? We give him our heartfelt thanks again and say our goodbyes. Just as we leave the track, two women on mopeds arrive. They took one look at the track and swiftly do a U-turn. We are now back on the main road above the town and we pull over to take in the view of Lipsi and its archipelago of islets just beyond. Just as we do, a blast from the horn of the Panagia Skiadeni announces her arrival. Now this really is a sight for sore eyes. Down below is Lientou Beach and the small promontory hiding the port from view. A little further along the road, a little place catches my eye. The sign painted on the wall says Giannilos Farma but what I can see are scores of bicycles. Bikes of all shapes, sizes and colours are strapped to the railings to form a fence of bicycles. Back in the car we now head for Platis Gialos beach purported to be the most beautiful beach on the island. My first impressions are that the beach really does live up to its reputation. There are a good number of well-established tamarisk trees along the beach offering shade and the sand runs from the beach out into the deep bay making the water appear in every shade of blue and turquoise that you can imagine. We secure a little spot under some shade for our bags and then swiftly cast our bodies into the calming waters. After shaking off the dust and the stress we realise how hungry we are and decide to eat at the beach taverna also known as Platis Gialos. Greek salad, chicken souvlaki and swordfish are just perfect for a lunchtime bite although unusually, accompanied by Coca Cola rather than with wine. After a couple of hours here we head back towards the main town on our way to Katsadia Beach. Along the way I had seen advertising signs for the Honey Farm. Every trip to Greece sees me going in search of a good quality honey and I always bring at least a kilo jar home with me. We park on the road close to the entrance of the farm but everywhere is shut up with no signs of life. This is a shame but hopefully we will be able to find it in one of the shops in the town before we leave. Katsadia Beach is in walking distance of Lipsi town though there are several cars parked up along the back of the beach. We take steps down onto the beach and can see that it is mainly families here. Dilaila Beach Bar and Restaurant is set just at the back of the beach and offers some lovely shaded seating areas. There are several yachts moored up in the bay so this is obviously a popular beach though certainly not crowded and this is in the middle of July. My views on what I saw on Naxos last year are already documented but it is refreshing to see the authorities clamping down on this money-grabbing and not to mention illegal profiteering. Before heading back to the town to return the car we give it a once over. We pull out the mats in the footwells and shake out as much dust from the inside of the car as we can. We use our towels to wipe the dust from the seats and dashboard. We use the last of our bottled water and a towel to wipe down the outside of the car but unfortunately, it has made it look worse. We have to let it dry and then wipe it with a dry cloth otherwise known as my lovely James Lakeland sarong. A small sacrifice to make in the grander scheme of things — it could have been worse! The car is returned to Vasoula with a full tank of petrol. Anyway, she knows who I am and where I work but hopefully everything is OK. Needless to say we end our day with a few swift drinks and try to shake off the memory of Kamares Beach as best we can! Where did the time go on Lemnos? My days have usually started with a simple breakfast on my small balcony overlooking an orchard of pomegranates, oranges and quince, almost all ready for harvesting. Yoghurt, local thyme honey, peaches and a cup of tea will more than suffice…. The three hour journey to Lesvos was very pleasant — despite being at an ungodly hour. The morning air was quite chilly so I sat in the comfort of the lounge. Anyway the early morning…. The Grandadults are going to the small water park today. OK, let me just clarify something. When I first came to Ikaria two years ago a particular song from the film…. A nice traditional taverna down by the marina just a short walk from Hotel Lesvion. Organising my family…. I think Wendy and I will use the local taxi service like I have done previously!! This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. Skip to content. Lipsi Like this: Like Loading Previous Previous. Next Continue. Similar Posts. Yes me too. Let me know what you think. Home Blog Posts Toggle child menu Expand.

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