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A North Korean soldier on the bank of the Yalu River (2014)
Roughly 70% of North Korean defectors are female - a fact some link to higher levels of unemployment among women More than half are in their 20s or 30s, in part because it is easier for younger people to swim rivers and weather an arduous journey
Image source, Sipa Press/REX/Shutterstock
North Korean women must serve a minimum of seven years in the military, and men are required to serve 10 - this is the longest mandatory service in the world It's estimated that about 40% of women aged between 18 and 25 are in uniform - a number that is expected to grow, as military service became compulsory for women only two years ago The government says about 15% of the country's budget is spent on the military, but think tanks say the figure could be up to 40% Gifted students with special skills - for example in sports and music - may be excused military service
A former soldier says life as a woman in the world's fourth-largest army was so tough that most soon stopped menstruating. And rape, she says, was a fact of life for many of those she served with.
For almost 10 years Lee So Yeon slept on the bottom bunk bed, in a room she shared with more than two dozen women. Every woman was given a small set of drawers in which to store their uniforms. On top of those drawers each kept two framed photographs. One was of North Korea's founder Kim Il-sung. The second was of his now deceased heir, Kim Jong-il.
It was more than a decade ago that she left, but she retains vivid memories of the smell of the concrete barracks.
"The mattress we sleep on, it's made of the rice hull. So all the body odour seeps into the mattress. It's not made of cotton. Because it's rice hull, all the odour from sweat and other smells are there. It's not pleasant."
One of the reasons for this was the state of the washing facilities.
"As a woman, one of the toughest things is that we can't shower properly," says Lee So Yeon.
"Because there is no hot water. They connect a hose to the mountain stream and have water directly from the hose.
"We would get frogs and snakes through the hose."
The daughter of a university professor, So Yeon, now 41, grew up in the north of the country. Many male members of her family had been soldiers, and when famine devastated the country in the 1990s she volunteered - motivated by the thought of a guaranteed meal each day. Thousands of other young women did the same.
"The famine resulted in a particularly vulnerable time for women in North Korea," says Jieun Baek, author of North Korea's Hidden Revolution. "More women had to enter the labour force and more were subject to mistreatment, particularly harassment and sexual violence."
Juliette Morillot and Jieun Baek say Lee So Yeon's testimony accords with other accounts they have heard, but warn that defectors have to be treated with caution.
"There is such a high demand for knowledge from North Korea," says Baek. "It almost incentivises people to tell exaggerated tales to the media, especially if that comes with nice pay cheque. A lot of defectors who don't want to be in the media are very critical of 'career defectors'. It's worth keeping this in mind."
Information from official North Korean sources, on the other hand, is liable to be pure propaganda.
Lee So Yeon was not paid for her interview with the BBC.
To begin with, buoyed by a sense of patriotism and collective endeavour, the 17-year-old Lee So Yeon enjoyed her life in the army. She was impressed with her allocated hairdryer, although infrequent electricity meant she had little use for it.
Daily routines for men and women were roughly the same. Women tended to have slightly shorter physical training regimes - but they were also required to perform daily chores such as cleaning, and cooking that male soldiers were exempted from.
"North Korea is a traditional male-dominated society and traditional gender roles remain," says Juliette Morillot, author of North Korea in 100 questions, published in French. "Women are still seen ttukong unjeongsu , which literally translates as 'cooking pot lid drivers', and means that they should 'stay in the kitchen where they belong'."
The hardships of life as a female soldier in the North Korean army, as recalled by recruit Lee So Yeon
The hard training and dwindling food rations took their toll on the bodies of Lee So Yeon and her fellow recruits.
"After six months to a year of service, we wouldn't menstruate any more because of malnutrition and the stressful environment," she says.
"The female soldiers were saying that they are glad that they are not having periods. They were saying that they were glad because the situation is so bad if they were having periods too that would have been worse."
So Yeon says that the army failed to make provision for menstruation, during her time in the military, and that she and other female colleagues often had no choice but to reuse sanitary pads.
"Women to this day still use the traditional white cotton pads," says Juliette Morillot. "They have to be washed every night when out of men's sight, so women get up early and wash them."
And having just returned from a field visit where she spoke to several female soldiers, Morillot confirms that they often do miss their periods.
"One of the girls I spoke with, who was 20, told me she trained so much that she had skipped her periods for two years," she says.
Though Lee So Yeon joined the army voluntarily, in 2015 it was announced that all women in North Korea must do seven years' military service from the age of 18.
At the same time North Korea's government took the unusual step of saying it would distribute a premium female sanitary brand called Daedong in most female units.
"This may have been a way to atone for conditions of the past," says Jieun Baek. "That statement may have been to overcorrect for this well-known phenomenon that conditions for women used to be bad. It may have been a way to boost morale and get more women to think, 'Wow, we will be taken care of.'"
A premium cosmetic brand Pyongyang Products was also recently distributed to several female aviation units, following a call by Kim Jong-un in 2016 for North Korean beauty products to compete with global brands like Lancome, Chanel and Christian Dior.
Despite this, female soldiers stationed in the countryside don't always have access to private toilets, with some telling Morillot they often have to relieve themselves in front of men, making them feel especially vulnerable.
Sexual harassment, say both Baek and Morillot, is rife.
Morillot says that when she broached the subject of rape in the army with serving female soldiers, "most women said it happens to others". None said they had experienced it personally.
Lee So Yeon also says that she was not raped during her time in the army between 1992 and 2001, but that many of her comrades were.
"The company commander would stay in his room at the unit after hours and rape the female soldiers under his command. This would happen over and over without an end."
North Korea's military says that it takes sexual abuse seriously, with a jail sentence of up to seven years for men found guilty of rape.
"But most of the time nobody is willing to testify. So men often go unpunished," says Juliette Morillot.
She adds that silence about sexual abuse in the army is rooted in the "patriarchal attitudes of North Korean society" - the same attitudes that ensure that women in the army do most of the chores.
Women from poor backgrounds recruited into construction brigades, and housed in informal small barracks or huts, are especially insecure, she says.
"Domestic violence is still widely accepted, and not reported, so it is the same in the army. But I should really stress the fact that you have the same kind of culture (of harassment) in the South Korean army."
Lee So Yeon, who served as a sergeant in a signals unit close to the South Korean border, finally left the army at the age of 28. She was relieved to have the chance to spend more time with her family, but also felt she wasn't equipped for life outside the military and struggled financially.
It was in 2008 that she decided to escape to South Korea.
At the first attempt she was caught at the border with China and sent to a prison camp for a year.
On her second attempt, shortly after leaving prison, she swam the Tumen river and crossed into China. There, at the border, she had a rendezvous with a broker, who arranged for her to move through China to South Korea.
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"I use toner and lotion, then CC cream (colour correction cream). I will use facial pack after facial exfoliating."
In South Korea, men often wear make-up for their wedding day
Song Joong-ki is seen as the typical Korean male appeal
Korean beauty brands have surged in popularity in many Western markets
A man wearing make-up on the street may elicit unwelcome glares, questions about his masculinity and even his sexuality. But in South Korea, ideas about how to look good as a man are changing attitudes and influencing the world, as the BBC's Saira Asher reports.
When the BBC posted a video about the make-up routine of a 16-year-old YouTuber in Seoul on Facebook, the reactions ranged from intrigued to downright vitriolic.
Some assumed this meant he was gay, while others admonished him for his choice saying "real men don't wear make-up". There were, of course, those that argued for his freedom to live life however he pleased and against the "fragile masculinities" on show.
But Kim Seung-hwan is used to it. He says he's been called gay by some Koreans online for as long as he's been doing make-up tutorials.
A YouTube vlogger talks about why he wears make-up
When asked about whether he thought he looked feminine after he put on make-up, he was confused by the question as if he had never even thought about it.
"No I don't. I do not think about this being a girly look," he says. "It's about looking good."
For those uncomfortable with men who wear make-up, the scene at a high-end salon for men in Seoul's Gangnam district would have been quite something. But it points to an important shift in cultural expectations.
Senior make-up artist Han Hyun-jae expertly applies foundation, eyeliner and lipstick on a man. He chooses from an array of products and brands that will be familiar to most women, and goes in for the final touches of what he calls the K-pop (short for Korean pop) look . It's a scene that repeats itself day after day.
Packs of confident young men saunter into the salon and then leave with perfect skin and hair. Many of them are singers or actors on their way to promotional events.
One man is there for his wedding make-up, a common practice for men in South Korea. He chooses to get red lips for his special day.
"We make their complexion cleaner, eyebrows darker, contour their faces and draw out their masculinity in a way they can't do themselves," says Mr Han. He says men come in wanting to look like their favourite K-pop idols.
In the last few years, K-pop bands and Korean dramas have become the major influence on young people in the country and last year K-pop broke into the mainstream US and UK music scenes.
"I think Korea is a trailblazer in men's beauty culture, definitely in Asia at the moment, if not the world," says Joanna Elfving-Hwang from the University of Western Australia, who has done extensive research on beauty and image in South Korea.
"The way they (K-pop stars) play with masculinity, what it means to be a beautiful man in a heterosexual or non-heterosexual way, it opens up possibilities for men on the street and eventually makes it more acceptable."
This doesn't mean every man in Seoul walks around with a full face of make-up.
But in young and fashionable neighbourhoods like Myeong-dong it's common to see men walking around with foundation or BB cream (blemish balm) - a moisturiser and light foundation hybrid.
More importantly it has allowed for a much looser interpretation of what's acceptable for men when it comes to beauty.
And some young Korean men are unapologetic about the drive to enhance their look.
That wasn't always the case. In the 1980s and 90s the salaryman was the prevailing male aesthetic. Suits, luxury watches and a traditional strong male look were the norm. Korea has mandatory national service and that moulded and defined what men thought would look appealing.
"In the 80s and 90s, men in Korean pop content were largely portrayed as tough guys in gangster and detective films, and rebellious young men in some TV dramas," says Sun Jung, the author of Korean Masculinities and Transcultural Consumption.
But all that changed in the mid-1990s when music group Seo Taeji and The Boys came onto the scene, says Prof Elfving-Hwang. They used rap, rock and techno influences and incorporated English language into their music.
They kick-started fan culture which has now become a major force in the music industry, she says.
Then followed the big entertainment companies churning out K-pop girl bands and boy bands, and their influence has been like nothing before it.
"Compared to the 80s and 90s, now there are a lot more soft masculinities - pretty boy images and gentle male images - represented in media, and consumers welcome and widely consume them," says Dr Sun Jung.
They came to be known as Khonminam - combining the words for flower and a beautiful man. She says it takes inspiration from similar concepts in Japan of bishonen or beautiful boys and Shojo manga - girls comics.
"I think the phenomenon should rather be explained through the notion of hybrid or versatile masculinity - soft yet manly at the same time - which is different from effeminised," says Dr Jung.
She cites Song Joong-ki, the star of hugely popular Korean drama "Descendants of the Sun" as the embodiment of this. He may be a khonminam in his look, but as a special forces captain in the military he is also a tough guy.
Descendants of the Sun and other Korean dramas have helped spread the South Korean look around Asia and now the world. And that means the ways to achieve that look are in demand.
Male idols are plastered on billboards in Seoul hawking products like face masks and moisturisers. Companies are actively hiring men to sell women make-up products.
Their fandom in places like China, Thailand and Singapore is not to be dismissed either. Huge crowds show up to their performances and product launches.
"Men in China and South East Asia tend to think that Korean men are the typical beauty," says Lee Gung-min, a consultant to South Korean beauty companies.
"That is having a huge impact on male consumers in Asia."
Beyond Asia, brand Korea is starting to sell well in the US and Europe.
Walmart and Sephora now have K-beauty (Korean beauty) brands on their shelves and beauty bloggers are spouting the virtues of the 10-step K-beauty routine for glowing skin. American and European make-up enthusiasts are fast becoming acquainted with brands that were previously only popular in Asia like TonyMoly, Innisfree and Etude House.
Most interestingly, established beauty brands are making their own versions of products that originated in South Korea - like Clinique, Lancome and L'oreal introducing cushion compacts.
The drive for the perfect face has undoubtedly also contributed to a well reported rise in cosmetic surgeries in South Korea to achieve the desired jawline or nose. But it also stems from a deeply ingrained preoccupation with how you present yourself to others.
That's a common sentiment across Seoul. People here really care about how they look and how they come off to the world - both men and women.
You can't walk a few steps without coming across a cosmetics or skincare shop with a salesperson outside trying to lure you in with a free face mask, and companies are definitely capitalising on that self-care culture to sell products.
But men are now as much at the receiving end of that drive - or perhaps pressure - for self enhancement that women have felt for generations.
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Kyung-mi (not her real name) was mocked online, sneered at by social media bullies and interrogated for hours by police and prosecutors after accusing her K-pop star boyfriend of filming her while they were having sex.
She was the victim of a digital sex crime but she told the BBC that "no one was there to listen".
"I was in school, young and very lonely. There was no one on my side," she said.
"I really wanted to die, but I couldn't," she told us. "If I died, no one would know the truth about Jung Joon-young."
Jung Joon-young rose to fame through a TV talent show and had a large base of K-pop fans across east Asia.
Kyung-mi described him as an attentive, considerate boyfriend - until he filmed the couple having sex without her permission.
She first went to the police in August 2016, but she said officers failed to get hold of his phone and she eventually dropped the case.
She knew bringing charges against a high profile figure would be tough but she didn't expect to be treated like the accused rather than the accuser.
"The police officer told me to rethink about reporting it. She said it was difficult to bring charges against a celebrity.
"The prosecutor then called me, not him, in for questioning."
"I was humiliated, intimidated, and I started wondering if I had actually filed a case against an innocent person."
It took another three years before the shocking truth about the TV personality was presented to a judge.
Police received a tip-off about videos on his phone in 2019 and finally issued a warrant to seize it. They found he had secretly filmed images of 12 women, including Kyung-mi, and had shared them on a chatroom with his celebrity friends.
He is now serving five years in jail.
A police spokesperson has also told the BBC that the officers involved in Kyung-mi's case are being investigated.
Since Jung was jailed, Kyung-mi has received some support, but back in 2016 when she raised the alarm about his behaviour, few believed her. She was harassed online and friends were hard to find.
"My friends said that I was ruining Jung's life. No matter how much I suffered, the media talked about me all day.
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