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What is this terrible seedy island , full of sinister gangsters , riled up murderers and ominous threats? Every article I just linked to is bullshit, by the way. Where Thai and Burmese locals live a simple life and earn an honest living? Koh Tao is not perfect. Yes, there was and is corruption. Yes, it can be a complicated and sometimes frustrating place to live. And yes , there was a devastating, high profile, double murder on the island in September of I will never, ever try to downplay the horror of what happened. Those events have haunted me. But while I remain a humble guest of the Kingdom, a country where free speech is considered a liability , I need to choose my words carefully. The reason that murder case rocked the world are complex and nuance; the reason it rocked tiny, thirteen square mile Koh Tao is simple: it was unheard of. I regular emails from young women and men who are nervous about visiting to Koh Tao as a result of the wildly inaccurate media coverage of the island in the aftermath — nothing has shaken my faith in journalism by seeing the blatant lies published by news outlets I once respected following this tragedy. Experiencing Thailand as an expatriate and as a tourist are two very different things. But it boils down to this. Living in Koh Tao is complicated. Visiting is not. All that was a long wind up to my very clear, very effusive point: Yes, Koh Tao is safe for travelers. Koh Tao is an island where I happily live alone as a single young woman, where I leave my thousand dollar camera on the beach and swim freely without ever looking back on the shore, where I run alone through the back streets and palm forests in the early evening and I where I occasionally stumble home alone in the very early morning. I smile as I write this, imagining how risky and reckless that all probably sounds to those living in places where crime is a constant source of concern. I have traveled the world, and there are few places in which I worry so little about my personal safety. Are there precautions travelers should take when traveling here, like anywhere? Koh Tao is small island with extremely poor driving conditions. Steep hills, spectacularly poor paving and a fleet of less-than-ideal rental motorbikes equals almost daily accidents. If you are not an extremely confident motorbike driver, I urge you to explore the island by foot the hiking is amazing , by boat taxi the best beaches are down the worst roads , or by push bike there are some for rent in Mae Haad and Chalok, ask at your accommodation , and by occasional land taxi though they are a certified rip off. You will save yourself a lot of heartache this way. Every time I go hiking I see terrified looking tourists driving up roads I would never consider taking my bike up, and I just send off a little prayer to the universe to keep them safe. Be aware that there is no hospital on Koh Tao, and medical care for anything more than stitches is a long, painful and expensive emergency speedboat ride away on Koh Samui. Bring it back to the shop and stay calm — nothing is worse than losing your temper in Thai culture. Or, even better, not renting in the first place! The best tactic I have found is to avoid eye contact and keep walking steadily. If the aggression continues, take the opposite approach and try to make yourself appear larger my waving your arms, stomping your feet, yelling loudly, and pantomiming throwing a rock. The vet Jae is familiar with most dogs on the island and can let you know exactly what medical treatment to seek. That said, in the end you take final responsibility for yourself — consider getting dive insurance, remember that the nearest decompression chamber is on Koh Samui, sign on with a dive center you trust, and dive a conservative profile. Koh Tao is one of my favorite places in the world to party. Cheap drinks? Flip flops on my feet? Ocean breezes? Open air beach bars with no bouncers, no dress codes, and a walkable commute? Yes please! Should you avoid getting blind drunk and remain aware of your new surroundings? Yes, like anywhere in the world. Should you stay in groups and not walk alone in an unfamiliar area? And a note about illegal drugs. Drug use is relatively rare among travelers on Koh Tao, but the police have seriously stepped up their attention to it since I first began traveling to the island six years ago. Be aware that road stops, bar searches and arrest are all very real possibilities. Be prepared to seriously pay up — literally — if you are caught with drugs. That same intuition that guides you and keeps you safe at home? You take it with you wherever you go. Reading The Gift of Fear was a great turning point for me in helping me distinguish between anxiety rooted in the mind and intuition rooted in reality. I think of that quote, made famous in America after the assassination of John F Kennedy, often when it comes to Koh Tao. Anxious about the pending verdict and still grappling with what happened, I said no. That said, I felt super safe on Koh Tao as a solo female travel and would love to come back! Glad to hear you felt safe there and enjoyed yourself, Sarah. Clearly, I adore Koh Tao and it is very close to my heart. Short memory Alex?? Will definitely keep these in mind in the future, no matter the destination! I felt pretty confident about going but as a British citizen my parents have seen all the news stories and were horrified. I can understand now wanting to cause your parents any heartache. I hope this post will give them some comfort if you are lucky enough to return to Thailand! I really enjoyed reading this post. I spent a few days on Koh Tao last year and after seeing how steep some of the hills are around the island, we decided against renting a motor bike. Actually, ATVs have now been banned on the island! I would never rent a motorbike in Asia, or anywhere else for that matter. On the road. In the dark. On a motorbike. In a foreign country! I went on a motorbike tour in Vietnam, many years ago. We were in a group, and we all had a motorbike driver who was driving slowly and carefully, but I was still nervous. Plenty of practical advice on what to do if and when you ever feel threatened…regardless of whether you are in a Walmart parking lot or a remote island. Long-time reader and first time commenter here! Firstly, my friends would attest to your advice about motorbikes as they came off theirs on a steep hill — nothing too serious but enough grazes and scrapes to put paid to any more dive trips! I certainly felt extremely safe in Thailand but I would agree with your recommendation of partying responsibly, and also just keeping your cool. Indeed they are. Unfortunately, not all tourists behave respectfully, but that is a problem in many places. Great post, Alex! The dog tip is really good, ha, I had a run in with some dogs in Pai. After watching the program I, who am a lover of Thailand and of Koh Tao even debated in my head about going back as it really misrepresented the island! I would go back now but that was just my initial thoughts which were saddening. I too was disappointed, though mostly with myself for not listening to my initial instincts that something felt off. I was disappointed when I watch the final cut — it was speculative and threw a ton of rumors around without bothering to tie anything together or root it in fact. Another exploitation of a terrible tragedy. The crowbar gangs will not prey on hotels, you are not going to be anywhere near hijackers on a gridlocked intersection of an industrial area near a township en route home from work. I felt incredibly safe on koh Tao where I spent 10 days as a solo traveler getting certified at roctopus. What an interesting post! Thank you Alex! I agree, the internet has not been kind to Koh Tao. Interesting insight. I visited Koh Tao many many years ago, and watched Murder in Paradise feeling somewhat skeptical but also somewhat saddened that the island I remember so clearly could have changed so much. Thanks for attesting to the bullshit. Your blogs make me want to go back. You should plan a return trip, Mark! Yes, the Natalie Holloway comparison is an insightful one. It was fascinating to see the way that tragedy gripped America. Hi Alex! Long time reader, first time poster! Hoping to do some diving too so if you can recommend anywhere that would be great! Hey Oriana! Congratulations on your upcoming trip! Have fun! Hi Alex, This is an exceptionally well written and interesting article. Maybe another stream of income for you, would be to give travel writing lessons. I can remember the first time our family visited Koh Tao in We learned to Scuba Dive here. It seemed idyllic and my kids thought it was — very much so. We found both locals, and Expats and travellers alike to be friendly. I felt safe — was safe and would not have brought my children here, if I thought in anyway, there was any danger. And I think travellers and Tourists should listen to this. Yet, I still trust the wonderful place and my daughter who was also on the island at the time of the killings, is now back there again and has been for the last 3 months. She loves it and I trust that if she thought it was dangerous, she would leave. It pulls you back though-Koh Tao. I say this with a dreamy voice. But like anywhere you need to keep your head screwed on. Thank you for writing this. Yeah… most of the media coverage around Koh Tao has left me shaking my heard. Blatant misreporting of basic facts, publishing photos of other islands, talking about the wrong island major news outlets referred to this as the island where the Full Moon Party happens…. Some seriously bad journalism going on! Thank you for this post! You have some good points, and Koh tao is an amazing place, super good vibes. Awesome post! Most of the places portrayed in the media are safe as long as you take reasonable precautions just like you would at home, but Koh Tao felt particularly un-dangerous. I heard about that murder. It was a harrowing event, high profile case. I saw you on the programme. Be cautious when approached by media representatives. Oh I get so upset every time I see a negative media report on Koh Tao! It was by far my favourite Thai island well, I say by far; I did love Lanta almost just as much , I actually had an interesting discussion with an expat there about the murders. To me, the stupid thing about it is, it can happen anywhere. That said, Koh Tao was busy while we were there 6 months after the incident and I feel that most of the people viewing the island negatively are people who are never going to go there anyway. But it still saddens me that there is a cloud of negativity around such a beautiful place. And yes — it was channel 4! Hi Alex, thank you so much for doing this, it is really helpful. I did some research and came across many of these stories plus a recent one about a trash problem. Is that your take as well? Also, we are looking for a quiet beach on the island to completely relax. Any suggestions? Hey Pat! Sometimes quite a bit of trash washes up during storms but there are constant beach and land clean ups on Koh Tao which I think is impressive. Hey Alex! That sounds like an amazing two months, Vera. I love it! Higher end places will generally be listed on Facebook. Hope that helps! Good luck! Really interesting article. I was actually in Koh Tao about 2 weeks after those murders the week that the suspects were charged. It was a horrific and tragic event but these things happen everywhere. When we were there, we never felt unsafe at all, in fact it was the place that we all enjoyed the most. That pub crawl was a real highlight for us. There was also a great restaurant there Susies I think it was called or a variation of that. It was right across from the simple Life hotel — it had amazing curries! Anyway, the point of this comment is just to agree with everything you said. Hey Fiona, thanks for sharing your perspective. It warms my heart to hear you had such a wonderful time here and double awesome to hear you are coming back! Have you heard about the recent murders and missing people in Koh Tao? And I can certainly assure you there are far more than seven police offers on Koh Tao now. Hundreds of solo female travelers arrive on Koh Tao every single day. I was once one of them. Hi Alex, Thanks for this post, I was quite chocked about the media around the murders in Koh tao… I am coming over in end of august, for the diving season! Your post made me confident of my choice, so thanks for that!! Wow, you are living there for 8 years!! Do you know a any PADI courses that you could recommend? Hey Fernanda, so glad to hear that! Do you mean PADI specialties? I love your passion for defending this place but something or someone is really off. Police is not willing to share pictures or an autopsy which is normally standard procedure. Her backpack was send out to her destination not by her self. I think the Thai police should be straight, something is wrong and they need to fix it! There is literally zero credible evidence to support any other theory, and plenty to support that one. I was visiting the island when the murders took place. They actually took place about metres from where I was sleeping. The event really shook me. I had been walking to my dive school very early morning about half an hour after the event. They later showed footage of my hotel surveillance of possible murderers, just before I was walking there. I was actually a little surprised nobody asked me if I saw anything…not that I did. I asked the waiter what had happened, since the beach next to the hotel was crawling with police. He told me two people died. It felt unreal. It was my second visit to the island. That such an event could take place in this laid-back place. So much went wrong after the event. A British guy was taken off the island by British troops because his boss threatened he would frame him for it. The police chief said the whole island was under lockdown, even though I knew of two different persons who had gotten off the island on different ferries that day. Then the police chief started to shame women for wearing bikinis and provocative clothing. I am very much certain that that killer has gotten away. Why stick around on an island after such an act. So they blamed it on two Birmese. They just needed culprits to not harm tourism any further. I actually am a bit worried about the deaths on Koh Tao afterwards. All after Sept I really hope my friend will find Koh Tao the same as I found it last time. So nice. So fun. So safe. Hey Willemien, I know how you feel. It was a very surreal time to be on Koh Tao. And yes, I agree, there was so much inaccurate information around at the time, including the ridiculous statement that the island was in lockdown, which those of us who were there know it never was. For me, I assure you Koh Tao still is the fun, beautiful island I have always loved. People drowning in swimming pools, being hung, missing, getting their heads bashed in. People being framed for murder. Why would anybody ever ever consider going to this place. Gary, two people were killed. The rest has been media speculation and hype. Clearly, there are many reasons to consider going to this place — there are hundreds that do every single day! And this blog is a testament to the fact that I have traveled the world, yet still call Koh Tao home. Hi Alex,i have booked a ferry crossing from koh samui to koh tao. And i must admit that i wondered if i should go to koh tao. Hey John! You will have a fantastic four days. Let me know how it goes! Hi Alex, I found this article while researching dive certification options in Koh Tao. I also found the other articles about island corruptions and unexplained deaths as well as the terrible murder case and trial. And consequently are very vulnerable to scams and inflated prices. Hey Rae, I get what you mean! I have to kind of stifle a laugh when people ask me if Koh Tao is dangerous. In my humble opinion, as someone who has been on Koh Tao on and off counting on nine years now, this island is no more corrupt than our neighboring islands and many of the others I have visited through Southeast Asia. There are as many good, hardworking people in the dive industry here as in any dive hotspot in Southeast Asia. My uncle was murdered years ago- and we live in Surrey…. It truly is one of the most beautiful places on earth???? Aw, I love hearing how much you love Koh Tao, Laura. I agree it was shocking to see the way the media covered the story. The amount of blatant factual inaccuracies about Koh Tao articles talking about the world-famous Full Moon Parties on the island — eye roll or about the events of the murders really showed me that there is such thing as fake news! Which has no changed! A government hospital opened about a year ago and while most travelers still head to Samui for serious emergencies, it is a huge improvement for the people of Koh Tao. Definitely a good lesson to always keep important documents and wallets tucked away somewhere safe! Hi from a former Thailand expat! Have a bunch of Thailand content coming up — hope you enjoy! Hey Joanna, the island is eight square miles. Most people have motorbikes, but I definitely have friends who have spent years there and only get around on foot! You can also get a push bike. You do realize a few couples, and other tourists traveling there have been murdered, correct? There are multiple true crime channels on YouTube that have told the story of those killed there. In the comments of those videos you can find stories of not-so-nice experiences. Lindsay, I appreciate your concern for other travelers but I can confidently assure you that those who have encountered harm on Koh Tao are in the small minority compared to the hundreds of thousands millions? And I say this with the authority of someone who lived there for seven years — I think that gives me a leg up on some YouTube videos. Leave a Comment. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Search for:. Is Koh Tao Safe for Travelers? Posted in Confessions — Thailand. My Travelversary: Seven Years of Travel. Santa Hats in the Sand: Christmas Subscribe to receive regular new blog posts, our monthly Alex in Wanderland newsletter, or our Wander Women Retreats announcements — or all three! Some of these are definitely applicable anywhere. Thanks for reading, Cate! Yes, it is an issue for many owners of remote villas and houses! Such a great read. Koh Tao will welcome you with open arms! Thanks for spreading the Koh Tao love, Jess. Glad you had a great experience! Thanks Julia. September 23 September 24 December 26 Thanks so much! December 27 Hi Alex Really interesting article. Hi Alex, Have you heard about the recent murders and missing people in Koh Tao? Hi Alex, I was visiting the island when the murders took place. September 13 September 22 Or do I take my course elsewhere because there are hundreds of places to do so? On another note, my condolences for the loss of your uncle x. I think Koh Tao is pretty safe and lovely. September 26 Yep,send off new posts. Leave a Comment Cancel reply.
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