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This question always drives me nuts. In general, I avoid choosing favourites — favourite countries, favourite food, favourite friends, favourite books — as I think everything should be appreciated in its own way. Every country, city, village, and patch of moorland I visit touches me in a different way. Each destination has its own quirks and gives me memories that are wholly unique and offer something incomparable to the last. Where there are benefits there are also minuses and part of the appeal of living in different locations is seeing it in all its different guises. However, there are certainly places that have made a lasting impression on me. New Zealand and Georgia have a special place in my heart as these are the countries that I have called home the longest: one and two years respectively. Long-term travel has taught me that that the longer I spend in the place, the more special it feels to me. The same sentiment applies when I have the privilege of visiting a place more than once. One of the greatest appeals of being location independent is that I can choose to stay in a place for as long as I like visas permitting and return to those that resonate. And indeed, I did! In the future I hope to return and stay for a couple of months. Until then, this post explains why Koh Lanta stole a piece of my heart and what to expect when you visit the island. The yin and yang of isles are connected by the Siri Lanta Bridge which makes it as easy as pie to visit both. Towns are dotted all around the periphery of the island, with plenty of amenities, eateries, beach bars, and guest houses. The island is blessed with sandy beaches, verdant rainforest including the Mu Koh Lanta national park , and waterfalls best viewed during the green season. Inhabited entirely by Thai residents, the island attracts virtually no tourism. It mainly comprises small fishing villages, a couple of masks, and swathes of agricultural land. There are no supermarkets, only a handful of small convenience stores and roadside stalls selling essentials: coca cola and bananas. Scootering around Noi is easily one of my favourite things to do on Koh Lanta. Both of my stays on Koh Lanta fell during the green season May — October. These months are subject to frequent and heavy rainfall and turbulent seas. Hello, Thai winter! During this time, the island is quiet with lower numbers of tourists. In fact, many of the restaurants and guest houses close up for these months. Those that remain open tend to slash their rates, which means that food and accommodation are really affordable. This is how I, a solo budget traveller, ended up staying in a posh ish resort for my entire stay and eating pad Thai every day yum. With high expectations of the island, I pre-booked ten nights on the island the first time I visited. In the end, I stayed for three weeks and would have extended if possible. But my day visa-free stay was ticking down and I wanted to visit Koh Lipe before taking the boat to Langkawi. Here are only a handful of reasons why Koh Lanta is so special to me. Koh Lanta has it all. As I mentioned, some parts of Koh Lanta Yai are fairly rugged. Particularly the northwest tip off of Saladan Village and the entire eastern coastline. I loved hopping from beach to beach and seeing how the landscape changed around the island. Most of my free time was spent cruising around the two islands, experiencing rain flurries, torrential downpours, as well as lovely sunshine. A lot of my time on Koh Lanta was spent in or at least gazing at the Andaman Sea. As it was the Thai winter during my stay, and the water gradually became choppier and rougher. Some days the water was far too strong for swimming safely. Even then, it was always beautiful to wander along the beach and listen to the waves, whatever time of day it was. Even on cloudy evenings of which there are many during green season , the sky puts on a show. You can choose a different beach or beach bar for each evening of your stay and check out different views. My favourite island is home to Lanta Animal Welfare. This non-profit rehabilitates stray cats and dogs from the island and has them rehomed. Most mornings I would take a dog for a walk through the forest or down to the beach. Animal lovers, add a visit to Animal Welfare to your Koh Lanta itinerary. They welcome dog walkers every morning and afternoon not during the hot part of the day, mind! There are a nice cafe and gift shop on the premises where you any purchase benefits the animals, and the centre welcomes donations. Check out the Lanta Animal Welfare website to see other ways you can support them. As I mentioned, there are excellent snorkelling and diving spots surrounding Koh Lanta. For every wave our speedboat crashed its way through, I inhaled a lungful of seawater. Sadly, the tide was too high for us to snorkel through the famous Emerald Cave. Obviously, disappointing, but these things happen when you travel. Those of us who were spared hastily pulled on lifejackets and bobbed around in knee-high waters to avoid the same fate. Rainstorms and sea urchins aside, the day itself was a lot of fun. Definitely check out snorkel or diving packages with the likes of Lanta Diver and Raya Divers. Without a doubt, one of the best things to do on Koh Lanta is to hire a motorbike. This way you can explore the island on your own and find quieter areas. Actually, Koh Lanta is where I taught myself to ride a motorbike. Something I was excited and nervous about in equal measure. But, within 15 minutes of getting my head around the basics which really are, very basic , all the worries were long gone. So, I switched to one that did. Bike no. Fortunately, you will find old bottles of spirits dotted all over the island at the roadside. Once the booze is slurped, islanders fill the empties up with petrol and sell them for around 30 THB. That did lead to a lot of time spent on Koh Lanta wandering around with an empty bottle and a funnel often late at night feeling like I had an alcohol problem. After years of dithering over my design, I finally got my first tattoo on Koh Lanta. The coastline is flanked by laid-back beach bars where you can grab a sundowner. That being said, although there is a party scene on Koh Lanta, it is far calmer in comparison with the likes of Koh Phangan and Koh Phi Phi. The atmosphere is less about getting mindlessly drunk and more about lingering over a drink while chatting and enjoying the sound of the sea. The island bars rotate their party nights throughout the week so there is always something going on. Most of the restaurants on Koh Lanta specialise in Thai dishes. However, you can find a few western restaurants for a burger, souvlaki, or pizza fix. Year-round, you can find barbecues sizzling up fresh seafood and there are heaps of options for vegetarians as well. When it comes to eating on Koh Lanta, I recommend revving up your motorbike and letting your nose guide you. The great thing about visiting Koh Lanta during the green season is that it feels you have the island to yourself. There are fewer tourists, and you might only see a handful of other swimmers on the beach. Ahh Thailand. My first venture out of Europe was a holiday to Bangkok and the islands of Southern Thailand. Ever since that first trip, over a Which is probably why one of my I fell headfirst down the Pai Hole before I even knew what it was. Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Submit Comment. Written by Hannah Dawn Hannah is a nomad slowly working her way around the globe. She quit her job at a 'Big Five' publisher six years ago and has lived on the road ever since while working as a writer. Her vagabond lifestyle has taken her jungle trekking in Sumatra, scuba diving in Malaysia, living off-grid in a van in New Zealand, drinking the oldest wine in the world in Georgia, and studying Spanish in Chile. Another place is the Thai island, Koh Lanta. The sea 3. Epic sunsets 4. New furry friends 5. Sketchy snorkelling 6. Perfect for motorbiking 7. My first tattoo 8. Day trip 9. Laid-back beach bars Koh Lanta food P. I love you, Koh Lanta. When it comes to beaches, some of my favourites are: Klong Dao: This long beach was my favourite spot for catching the sunset. Nui Bay: Peaceful, quiet, and perfect swimming conditions. Kantiang Bay: Great for a walk and picnic. Although swimming conditions are choppy especially in the green season. Epic sunsets Every single night. New furry friends My favourite island is home to Lanta Animal Welfare. Meanwhile, the rescue cats welcome a fuss and a cuddle. Sketchy snorkelling As I mentioned, there are excellent snorkelling and diving spots surrounding Koh Lanta. Perfect for motorbiking Without a doubt, one of the best things to do on Koh Lanta is to hire a motorbike. My first tattoo After years of dithering over my design, I finally got my first tattoo on Koh Lanta. Whenever I look down and see my tattoo, I think of happy days on Koh Lanta. Day trip I took one of those day trips on Koh Lanta. I enjoyed sitting with a cocktail or beer at sunset alone and watching golden hour. Waistlines are overrated. You May Also Like…. Submit a Comment Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Pin It on Pinterest.

Koh Lanta: The (Travel) Love of My Life

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No one in Bangkok will believe you are going to Koh Lanta. Onwards you'll trundle down dual carriageways, past trucks piled high with spiky pineapples and knobbly jackfruit, onto car ferries - heaving, lumbering, diesel-choking car ferries. Then the island itself, a single-track road, driving through low, shrubby palm groves, getting further and further away from the noise and the bright lights with every twist and curve. And that, there, is precisely the point. It's not as if Koh Lanta is some hidden secret paradise, an untouched spot where no one but the most intrepid backpacker has ever set foot. It's commonly regarded as one of the best islands in Thailand. It's also quite big. Lanta Yai, the main island there are more than 50 marine-park-protected little ones in the archipelago , is 30km from top to bottom, with a sandy fringe all along the west coast, a jungly spine down its middle and dramatic rockery to the east. But it is, in the grand scheme of Thai islands, deliciously unspoilt. And there are reasons for this. Firstly, it's a trek to get here. Krabi only has international flights from Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. Hong Kong is on the cards, but still. Your average journey looks like this: long-haul flight, short-haul flight, taxi, car ferries plural , more taxiing, perhaps a speedboat straight to the sand in high season. So those visitors who do finally end up splashing in the gin-clear, bath-water-warm Andaman Sea have made quite an effort. Secondly, this southern part of Thailand is mostly Muslim, which means a culture that develops slowly, methodically, with thought and care overt displays of wealth and power are not the done thing. Consequently, Lanta has a very mellow, softly tuned vibe. It's a low-rise, go-slow kind of place, the rustle of the breeze through the rubber-tree plantations interrupted only by a muezzin call to prayer. In four or five years it may be on the turn but for now, it's just hunky-dory. Everyone has a different explanation about the origins of the island's name. Some say their Malay ancestors called it Pulau Satak, meaning long-beach island, which would make perfect sense. Others lean towards the Javanese translation of Lanta - a fish grill. Either way, it has its roots in beaches and fishes, so everyone's happy. The Muslim community is joined in this juicy melting pot by a hefty chunk of Thai Chinese it was a stop-off point between the trading posts of Phuket and Penang and the once-nomadic sea gypsies, the Urak Lawoi. Everyone might dance to a slightly different beat, but the general rhythm of Lanta is a groovy one. In the s the first rucksack-carrying travellers trickled over from the mainland, a few beach huts sprang up and a little scene sparked off. What visitors there mostly Scandinavians and Germans cruised around on junkyard mopeds, ate king prawns the size of lobsters at roadside shacks and knocked back not-quite-chilled Singha beer by lantern light. It certainly was unplugged; the island was only hooked up to mains electricity in Now the voltage is regular and the lodgings are lovelier. Although if you want to crash out in a basic sandy shack, you still can check out Fisherman's Cottage or Lanta Roundhouse. But a steady stream of more grown-up west-coast boltholes have emerged in the past 10 years. There's Costa Lanta, an overgrown garden punctuated with fabulous polished-concrete minimalist havens. By far the edgiest design-wise, it's about as Espresso Martini as it gets on the island. Sri Lanta, further down the coast, is a little more local, with layers of teak and rattan in its pitched-roofed cottages. Then there's Layana, somewhere between the two geographically and the jazziest place to bed down on this stretch. It's right on a wide and deserted beach, with blonde sand gently sloping into the palest blue water. The sunbeds have buzzers to press for service, and there are funny grey beanbags that look like they belong in a teenage boy's bedroom and are actually deeply comfy for a mid-afternoon snooze. There's also a pool: an elegant, sleek oblong one pointing straight out to sea. No fountains, no fuss, no chlorine. Just salt water that's hydrolysed to the same level as human tears. There's a restaurant whipping up the freshest sesame-seed-encrusted seared tuna with fiery mango salsa. Rooms are easy-breezy, effortless, with wide beds, sunken baths and outdoor showers beloved by the many returning guests. And last year saw a smart refurb, with a new spa and top-notch two-bedroom villa called La Maison, sharpening the look. Beyond these hotel hotspots are the kind of beach bars you really do want to find in Thailand, with driftwood, palm fronds, bamboo chairs and tables dotted along the sand. Kantiang beach has two gems: Same Same But Different for drinks as the sun slips down and the Why Not bar for later on. There are full-moon parties the one at Mong Bar promises happy shakes, bang lassi and electro-trance but there are also half-moon parties, new-moon parties, beginning-of-season parties, end-of-season parties, mid-season parties, Tuesday-night parties, but all on the smallest scale. Here on Koh Lanta they're not mass-market raves; it's just an excuse to string up the star- shaped paper lanterns and call in a local band that does great renditions of Nirvana and Oasis. The boys behind the bar wear skinny jeans and have shiny black hair down to their elbows, chunky silver rings studded with turquoise, a number of piercings and tattoos, at least two, because one of them runs the ink parlour up the road by day. They serve Sang Som buckets: rum, M similar to Red Bull , Coca-Cola, a good squeeze of lime, loads of ice and a fistful of straws for baht. This is the scene. It hasn't changed for 15 years - even the music is still the same. The only problem with Sang Som buckets is the hangover the next day, which is probably less from alcohol and more from a sugar overdose. So it's best to avoid them if you have any urge to get out and get underwater. There's fantastic diving here, incredible visibility, underwater pinnacles, coral outcrops and masses of marine life. Ko Haa, which is an hour and a half out, is a collapsed volcanic island with steep drop-offs to the side and more than a dozen dive sites, caverns and chambers where you'll see turtles, octopus and pointy-nosed barracuda. Dedicated divers won't blanche at the two-hour boat ride to even more impressive Hin Daeng, the red rock, a coral-rich playground for spotting manta ray and maybe even a whale shark. And you don't have to arrange a dive through your hotel: there are dive shops in almost every village, which tend to be much cheaper and just as good. If scuba isn't your thing, there's brilliant fishing, amazing snorkelling, sea kayaking to the limestone caves at Koh Talabeng and longtail boat trips to the gnarled mangroves around Koh Klang and Koh Lanta Noi. But to really understand the island, you need to forget the obvious attractions - the sea, the sand - and explore a bit. Hire a moped and head away from the west coast, away from the beaches, through the tangled green interior and out east. Buzz past houses with wrought-iron birdcages swinging between the trees the more you have, the richer you are - that's as status conscious as this place gets , past lopsided three-wheelers heavy with family members, over the hump of the island and down the other side. From the top there are Jurassic Park-like views, out across the water to Lanta's many uninhabited islets. And there at the bottom of the hill is the Old Town, a time warp of a place, a film set of shuttered century-old teak houses on stilts. There are a few lovely bars, Mango House, Apsara, Caoutchouc, a shop that just sells hammocks it's called Hammock House, you can't miss it , a mynah bird at the Fresh restaurant that squawks 'hello' and 'good morning', whatever the time of day, a red-and-gold Chinese temple and some kooky dwellings to stay in. Here, facing east, it's strong coffee and a blast of pink dawn with the high tide lapping beneath your floorboards. For something more unashamedly comfortable, there's no beating Pimalai. Pimalai is the kingpin. But it is charming too. There's no marble, no glitz, no razzmatazz. It's big, with more than rooms, but so artfully designed and spread out that it doesn't feel it. Gorgeous pool villas are tucked between cashew trees on the hilltop; regular suites trickle towards a powdery swathe of beach. To the left and behind, rugged monkey-filled forest hugs the curve of the bay. The sea is the scene-stealer here. There are no jet-skis, no speedboats, just the swoosh of the waves along the half-mile stretch of shore. Five cabanas and a few rows of parasoled sunbeds are populated by Euro couples: French, Dutch, German, Italian, boys with Ray-Bans, girls in the tiniest black bikinis and panama hats. Families with children stay around the lower pool. If you're lucky you'll see elephants wander down with their mahouts for a bath. More likely, though, is the sight of a London banker heading out to sea in a Hobie Cat only to be rescued by hotel staff an hour later. Then there's the spa. Such a pretty spa, tumbling down the hill, with rushing water, pools of koi carp, thatched salas and therapists who are thrillingly mean: tiny Thai girls who crunch and knead with no mercy. It is a simple set-up, with facials and massages and no promise of a life-changing, time-altering treatment, just serious therapies to make you feel better. Only somewhere like this is the plinky-plonky music pertinent, the ginger tea appropriate, the foot bath traditional, the stone bowls of concentric pink and white flowers local. At night, the hotel is lantern-lit. The cicadas roar. Frogs come out, croaking and lolloping by the pools. Inside your room the look is low-key, with dark woods and smooth stone floors, cloud-like beds, floor-to-ceiling windows and curtains made from slices of bamboo. It's chic, but not groundbreaking. But you are not here for that. If you wanted a blast, a buzz, you'd be on Phuket , or Samui. But Pimalai, much like Koh Lanta itself, is in a different zone. It's not cutting-edge. It's not cool. It's at ease in its own skin. People come here over and over again because they know it's not going to change. Not just yet, anyway. Read our feature on more of the best winter sun destinations. Readers' Choice Awards Best cities in the world Friendliest cities in the world. A temple on Koh Lanta Mirjam Bleeker. Kantiang village Mirjam Bleeker. The beach in front of Pimalai Mirjam Bleeker. A pool villa at Pimalai Mirjam Bleeker. The bar at Layana Mirjam Bleeker. A beach hut on Koh Lanta Mirjam Bleeker. A map of Koh Lanta Mirjam Bleeker. The best of Thailand's beaches. Gallery 16 Slides. View Slideshow. The best islands in Thailand to visit. Gallery 11 Slides. By Nell McShane Wulfhart. Eating out in Thailand. Mirjam Bleeker. A beach hut on Koh Lanta. A pool villa at Pimalai. The beach in front of Pimalai. A birdcage on the island. Hammock House. A watersports shop. The barman at Why Not. Shanti Shanti restaurant in the Old Town. Moped fuel in Koh Lanta. A temple on Koh Lanta. Why Not Bar. Same Same But Different Bar. Swimming pool at Layana Resort and Spa.

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