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Klosters - the world's poshest ski resort

Klosters buy coke

I'm having dinner with Christian Erpenbeck, manager of the Silvretta Parkhotel, and his wife Kristina, who owns the Pine Cone interiors shop on Klosters high street. Kristina is busy telling me about working with The White Company founder Chrissie Rucker on the newly refurbished Haus Alpina - a jet-set hygge penthouse - when she glances out the window and spots one of the village's most famous residents. For the first time since my arrival four days ago in Klosters - dubbed Hollywood on the Rocks in the s when Paul Newman, Gregory Peck, Yul Brynner and Lauren Bacall were regulars - I feel I am about to have a celebrity moment of my own. Peter Mandelson driving around in financier Nat Rothschild's classic Ferrari, perhaps it happened back in Maybe Nicolas Sarkozy and Carla Bruni, who have stayed at Chalet Luegisland , enjoying the calming night air before the partying and symposium madness begins over at the World Economic Forum in neighbouring Davos. Later on Kristina will breezily recall encounters with Sigourney Weaver and Julia Roberts, she'll tell me about seeing Prince Charles and his boys on the slopes, and clocking the King of Sweden pushing a trolley in the local supermarket. Along with the man who walks barefoot in the snow, this is all part of the scenery at Klosters. And no one seems to give a damn. No other world-famous Alpine resort disguises its affluence, glamour and stellar celebrity patronage with quite as much unflappable nonchalance as Klosters. It is a Swiss bank account of winter-sports destinations: cosmopolitan, understated, tucked away, rigorously organised, well mannered, secure and discreet. Of course, it never succeeded in toughening us up, but we grew to love it. Elliot is now married to Mary-Clare Winwood, daughter of the musician Steve Winwood, co-incidentally and conveniently also a Klosters homeowner. Everything else is low-key and unpretentious. It's no frills. A bit eccentric. Poor thing didn't know what had hit her. Certainly to anyone initiated into its community of vigorous, wind-tanned skiers, cashmere-knit alpinists, various film stars, politicians, spritely Scandi-royals and vital-looking, something Euros, the notion that Klosters is so often categorised with blinging St Moritz and super-grand Gstaad is baffling and rather ridiculous. Here is a list of things you won't find in Klosters: flashy hedge-funders, brassy Ruskis, fur coats, selfie sticks, thundering four-wheel drives most people walk , high-fiving snowboarders in low-waisted pants this is a ski resort! The best store in town is a large and well-stocked branch of a Co-op supermarket. It's easier to buy a box of kindling than a designer handbag, and the best massage, at the Residenz Vereina , is a reassuringly brisk, stretch, pummel and rub down delivered with healing resolve by a sporty Teutonic man in a tracksuit. There isn't a single five-star hotel in Klosters. A few years back the Campbell Gray group made an attempt to build one, but the scheme seems to have fizzled out. It is rumoured that Nat Rothschild tried to buy the restaurant and convert it into a private home with a helipad. A chopper flying up and down the valley? The Klosters way, it seems, is all about modesty, old money, living well, a sense of fair play, skiing hard, honour and hearty, and unpretentious good times. But, truth be told, celebrity endorsement is what put Klosters on the map in the first place. Sir Arthur Conan Doyle visited the Davos Klosters region as early as the s, discovering the thrill of the slopes and the restorative air with his wife, who was suffering from tuberculosis. He was right. But it was the Americans who came first. Back in the s, Walter Haensli, a noted ski instructor and racer from Klosters, was in St Moritz training the American women's team. Visitor Jack Heinz of the Heinz foodstuffs behemoth befriended him and, on the promise of some outstanding skiing, followed Haensli back to Klosters. Every subsequent year, encouraged by John Jay's documentary about the St Moritz Winter Olympics, some of which was actually shot in Klosters, more and more Americans arrived. Famously, Gene Kelly danced on the tables in the cellar bar. Gore Vidal loved her for it and they became promenading, Alpine-air-taking friends. Interior designer Nicky Haslam, who first visited Klosters in the s and has since created several homes in the region, remembers Garbo making a daily walk to the newsstand at the Klosters-Platz railway station 'where she would take a long examination of all the movie-star magazines so she could see what was going on in Hollywood'. The only nightclub in town, Casa Antica , opened in A young Anjelica Huston met her photographer boyfriend Arnaud de Rosnay on the dance floor. The notion of Klosters as Hollywood on the Rocks was fast fading by the time the British royal family arrived in the s, but Prince Charles's low-key appearances soon won him approval in the village. Enter recent divorcee Clair Southwell, who was working as a masseuse over in Flims. For a while Southwell worked as the Prince's personal assistant, and her duties included organising the annual Klosters press call '…which Charles hated. He really just wanted to ski. Southwell now hosts Mongolian and Qatari guests during the economic forum Klosters is officially linked with big-brother resort Davos and arranges events such as the Christmas Day English carol service at the 13th-century church. New Year's Day is when the local farmers \[many of whom are also ski instructors\] stage a piglet race down the main street. She also manages a number of smart rentals, such as the immaculate modern-rustic Casa Bawald apartment near the church, owned and designed by gardener John Coke, founder of Bury Court Opera in Surrey. It's available to rent at a remarkably reasonable rate. But, this being Klosters, it's a word-of-mouth deal only and Southwell vets any applications to make sure they are Klosters insiders. Prince Andrew is known to favour the grander pleasures and panoramic views available up the hill at Chalet Eugenia. It was originally built by Baroness Thyssen-Bornemisza in , and its new owner, Rolf Theiler, a Swiss entrepreneur and philanthropist, has added a basement swimming pool and redecorated everything in super-plush, Heidi-married-an-oligarch style. Champagne is included. It's a ski-in, ski-out kind of place, naturally. The Parsenn ski area is km of groomed pistes - loads of motorway-wide reds and blues make it ideal for families. But more advanced skiers will recommend run number 24, a cruise through the trees towards a lunch at the Alte Schwendi restaurant. From here you can tackle the 12km Parsenn run down to the railway station at Kublis. Elliot likes to get up early, have a hot chocolate at the top of the Gotschna gondola and then clatter down the Parsenn Weissfluhjoch black run. Then we take the funicular railway back up to the Davos side of the mountain. It's an annual ritual. For me, skiing in Klosters feels like falling through a time-travel crevasse, back to an era when winter sports attracted strapping types who thrilled at the chilly brace of mountain air and the rush of hard-packed snow beneath their boots. Maybe it it's the clean air, maybe it's the long and testing ski days, or the carb-loading lunches, but every night in Klosters I go to bed early, sleep like a baby and rise bright and early the next day. Ready to take on the mountain and the cremeschnitte. A sweetly unpretentious and romantik spot in the middle of town still managed by its founding family. What it lacks in pampering no pool, spa or big TVs , it makes up for in cosiness, a great restaurant and quirky, old-fashioned charm. Check out Swiss painter Alois Carigiet's racy frescoes and relax in the legendary bar. Prince Charles and his boys were once regulars at this warm hotel in town. Rooms are all suites - two bathrooms and two bedrooms - done out in a contemporary, naturalistic Alpine style with animal-skin throws, open fireplaces and mountain views from the balconies. The restaurant has a Michelin star. A recent, extensive makeover has furnished the Piz Buin with a new swimming pool, gym and piano bar. Interiors are modern gentlemen's club with lots of deep-seated leather chairs and antler motifs. Like the Walserhof, it would earn a five-star rating anywhere else, but in Klosters they prefer to downplay things. Built in , this is a big, friendly and efficiently run family hotel with an indoor pool, spa, sauna, three restaurants, a piano bar and kids' club. Rooms have a view of the impressive Silvretta Glacier, after which the hotel is named. The Klosters Platz train station and the gondola to the ski area are a short walk away. Jugli died in , but the house was sensitively modernised by Klosters lifer Gilly Norton. Bedrooms have hand-made mattresses, linen is from Oka and The White Company, and bathtubs are huge. Ski photos and Alpine clutter make it feel like a family home. Sleeps eight. This one's got everything: vast rooms with oak-beamed ceilings, large balconies and terraces with panoramic views, palatial bathrooms, pillared fireplaces, antiques, crystal chandeliers and jet-set art everywhere. An indoor swimming pool, sauna, waterbed massage. A private cinema. You can ski out to the Heid ski lift directly - but you might also never want to leave. Sleeps up to Price on application. Just outside the town, this self-styled Alpine tavern is both destination restaurant and hotel. A night-time sleigh ride across the wintry wilderness to this traditional fondue destination feels like a proper adventure. Bells mounted on the horses' headgear ring out to warn speeding tobogganists that they are approaching. Blankets, hats and gloves and flask of schnapps are all essential for return journey under the stars. Take a short drive out of town to Monbiel and you'll find this charming place full of locals and Klosters regulars. Staff wear proper Alpine dirndl dresses. Readers' Choice Awards Best cities in the world Friendliest cities in the world. Winter in Klosters Jenny Zarins. Chalet Bear in Klosters Jenny Zarins. Horses drawing a traditional sleigh Jenny Zarins. View of Klosters Jenny Zarins. The sitting room at Chalet Bear Jenny Zarins. View of the Alps from Weissfluh peak Jenny Zarins. A wooden house on Landstrasse in Klosters Jenny Zarins. Hikers in the snow near run 24 in the Parsenn ski area Jenny Zarins. The reading room at Chalet Eugenia Jenny Zarins. The master bedroom at Chalet Bear Jenny Zarins. Flowers at Chalet Bear Jenny Zarins. The entrance hall at Chalet Bear Jenny Zarins. Gallery 2 Slides. By Steve King. View Slideshow. The 10 best ski hotels for families. Jenny Zarins. The entrance hall at Chalet Bear. The master bedroom at Chalet Bear. The reading room at Chalet Eugenia. The sitting room at Chalet Bear. Skiers heading to Weissfluhgipfel in Klosters, Switzerland. Footprints in the snow. Chalet Bear in Klosters. Flowers at Chalet Bear. Hikers in the snow near run 24 in the Parsenn ski area. Horses drawing a traditional sleigh. View of the Alps from Weissfluh peak. View of Klosters. Winter in Klosters. A wooden house on Landstrasse in Klosters.

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