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Home » Recently Added » BY TYPE » NATURAL HAIR » A Good Regimen For Natural Curly or Kinky Black Hair
Alma Ruddock · October 24, 2017 · 4 Comments
A good hair regimen can make or break your hair. Literally! With all good regimens for dry hair, there are a number of key points to consider.
• How often to have protein treatments
• How to style it to retain the most length
• How often to have hot oil treatments
• How often to rotate your shampoos and conditioners
• How often to have chemical services (like coloring)
Outlined below is a regimen for natural black kinky * or curly hair:
1. Co-wash (condition wash) on a Tuesday and deep condition with a moisturizing conditioner * for 20 minutes with heat (cover with plastic cap under a hooded dryer *).
2. Detangle only when the hair is soaking with conditioner and rinse
3. Seal hair with natural oil, style when still damp and allow hair to air dry overnight.
4. Spray hair with water daily to hydrate and seal with natural oil if wearing the hair in a natural style.
5. On Saturday wash hair with sulfate free shampoo *, deep condition with a light protein conditioner and style as usual.
6. Rotate the conditioners (both moisturizing and protein) every other week so that the hair does not stop responding to them.
7. A hot oil treatment to be applied to hair for 20 minutes before shampooing once a month.
8. Apply a caramel treatment to the hair once every 4 weeks to soften and hydrate the hair.
9. Use a strong protein treatment if any out-of-the-ordinary breakage occurs.
10. When straightening the hair make sure to use a heat protectant *.
11. Use only temperature controlled heat styling tools and only use heat once a month. Wear hair in natural styles most of the time.
12. Use only ammonia free hair colours once every 6-8 weeks if required.
13. Keep the hair braided for at least one out of 4 weeks to save on a detangling session and for length retention.
14. Do not braid too close to the edges (small baby hairs) to avoid thinning of the hairline.
15. Clarify the hair once every 6-8 weeks or when a lot of product has been used during the week to get rid of build up. Do not do this often to prevent the hair from feeling ‘stripped’ and dry.
16. Dust any split ends once every 6 months.
17. Track your growth every 3 months with pictures.
Each person’s hair is individual and if you are not new to hair care then you will already be aware of your hair’s likes and dislikes. Some people have protein sensitive hair. This means that protein makes their hair hard so they know to avoid too much protein. Some people know that they do not have much time for hair care due to work of family commitments so keep it braided for styling convenience. See the article on how to braid the roots of natural hair to prevent tangling.
Your hair’s needs should always dictate your regimen. Sometimes you may find that your lifestyle might get in the way of your hair care but if you are determined to grow your hair long and beautiful then simply tweak your regimen to suit. You may also find that due to changes in the weather, you may need to adjust your regimen periodically.
I’m Alma Ruddock, the founder and editor-in-chief of Blackhairinformation.com.

I stumbled on a hair care forum back in 2008 frustrated with my breaking relaxed hair and the information that I found there changed the fate of my hair, and quite possibly my life, forever! I immediately started to transition to natural hair and started BlackHairInformation.com as a way to help both myself and other women of color achieve their dreams of long healthy hair. I have now achieved my goal length and I continue to help others achieve their dreams too.

My three passions are hair, art and entrepreneurship and I love to be able to bring my unique view on hair growth and successful hair journeys to our readers. I am an eternal optimist and workaholic.
you can leave out the protein treatments if your hair is protein sensitive
Nice info—but rather confusing, I thought it was best after step 2–to also apply a leave in conditioner and then follow it up by sealing it with an oil?? I like the articles, I just am getting a bit confused.
Water is the moisture that you are sealing in with the oil in this case. Some ladies may want to add a leave in conditioner before sealing, particularly one that has glycerine or a similar ingredient that attracts moisture from the atmosphere keeping your hair soft. It is really a personal preference, not a one size fits all approach! Just find out which way works best for you. Good luck!
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Why Black People Have Curly, Kinky Hair
African American hair is very unique and tends to be much coarser, curlier, and thicker than other hair types.
The Black community is culturally diverse in many ways and includes a range of textured hair types. This includes straight hair, and tightly coiled, frizzy hair, which is known as “Afro.”
The texture of black hair can be coarse and thick (kinky), soft to wavy (curly), or dense coarse strands known as “Senegalese” hair, which is common among African Americans of West African origin. [1]
Black people have been known for having curly textured hair that turns into curls when wet. This is attributed to climate and high amounts of keratin protein in the strands.
Many scientists believe that the reason why black people have kinky, curly hair is that it evolved that way to protect the hair from UV radiation from the sun.
It is believed that Afro hair was genetically adapted to protect the scalp of the earliest modern humans in Africa. The elastic helix shape of the hair, along with the density, keeps the scalp cool because it produces an airy effect. Keeping the scalp cool helps to regulate the body temperature in countries with hot climates. [2]
Another reason why Afro hair appears the way that it does is because it contains natural moisturizing oils, which makes the hair curly and kinky.
All of these genetic and environmental factors are the reason why black hair has evolved to be kinky and curly.
Hair types are often influenced by ancestry, and black hair is no different. The texture of black hair originates from the curl pattern of their African ancestors who spent a long time in the sun. As with any genetic trait, certain hair types are more dominant than others in a family lineage. [3]
These genetic factors also mean that curly kinky hair is very common in many African tribes. Other races may find it difficult to achieve these same looks due to differences in genetic makeup. [4]
Black follicles are larger than those found in other races; hence they produce more melanin which makes them darker-skinned. This also causes Africans to grow tightly curled hairlines with an abundance of natural oils. [5]
Black people can absorb more sunlight and produce a greater amount of melanin in their skin due to an increased presence of keratin. Keratin is a protein that absorbs light better and increases the natural production of melanin.
This makes the hair and scalp of African Americans more durable, which makes them have curly, kinky hair. On the same note, black hair strands are able to grow up to six times faster because the higher percentage of keratin in Afro hair makes it curlier and kinky.
Afro hair has a thicker, tighter curl pattern because heat and sweat make the curls tighter, thus creating a protective barrier to hold in moisture. This means that their strands are tacked together more tightly, and the smaller diameter of these curls typically leads to less frizziness. [6]
The reason black people have naturally thicker hair is that it has flatter, thinner cuticle layers than Asian or Caucasian hair. [7] [ 8 ]
Curly hair is a hereditary trait shared by all races throughout the world. However, many scientists believe that the reason why curly hair is more dominant in black people is that this genetic trait was passed down through many African generations for millions of years.
However, this started to change about 20,000-40,000 years ago when earlier modern humans migrated out of Africa into Europe or East Asia, and this is the reason white people and Asian people have different hair types. [ 9 ]
Afro hair is very unique so it requires products that are specifically adapted to treat and style the curls and kinks that are hereditary with this hair type.
These products often contain more keratin, and essential oils such as jojoba, castor oil, tea tree oil, and Rosemary, for example. While these ingredients tend to be present in most hair products, they are especially useful for black people, because of the deep moisturizing effect and penetration that can really help to nourish the denser hair curls.
Other ingredients such as Shea Butter is particularly popular in black hair products because it contains an abundance of Vitamin E, Vitamin A, and other essential fatty acids.
Another popular hair product that many black people use is hair relaxers.
Hair relaxers are chemical treatments that are designed to straighten black hair and make it less thick and curly. These relaxers have been around for over a century and contain ingredients such as calcium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.
However, other black people choose to wear their natural curly hairstyle without any chemical alterations.
It is also common for black people to use heat protectants before using styling tools such as hot combs , hair steamers, or straighteners. These heat protectants often contain moisturizing ingredients such as silicones and keratin, which add additional nourishment and protection to the hair.
Some black people use hair products such as gels, mousse, and sprays to make their hair curlier. Not only do these substances provide a form of styling for hair, but they can also achieve permanent kinky curls, depending on how much of the product is used.
In general, black people have curly kinky hair due to the evolution of skin pigmentation and evolutionary adaptation in people of African ancestry. The African American ancestors were closer to the equator and thus had higher exposure to sunlight and UV radiation. This led them to develop more melanin, which causes black skin color in humans and curlier/kinkier hair textures than other races who live in less sunny climates. [ 10 ]
This has resulted in many interesting and diverse cultural trends, styles , and products that were formulated to help give Afro hair the care and nourishment that it needs.
Janine is a blogger/editor that edits and creates content for Afro Lovely.
She previously studied economics and journalism at college. After working for two major marketing agencies, she now uses her marketing prowess to create helpful advice, tips and blogs for our audience.
She currently lives in Leeds, in northern England.
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