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In the first of two reports on hashish production and trafficking in the Rif area of Morocco, Pierre-Arnaud Chouvy examines the cultural, political and economic factors that have engendered cannabis cultivation in the area. The Rif itself is estimated to be the source for 42 per cent of global hashish production as cannabis cultivation in the region has expanded rapidly there since the s, in part due to increasing European demand. In , in its first ever Cannabis survey, the United Nations Office on Drugs and Crime UNODC estimated that , hectares of cannabis were cultivated in Morocco, that is, a little more than the estimated area cultivated with opium poppies in Afghanistan in , ha. However, hashish production in Morocco differs greatly from opium production in Afghanistan and Myanmar, and from coca production in Colombia, for no armed conflict challenges the writ of the Cherifian kingdom over its territory. Although cannabis cultivation in Morocco is illegal, in the area a complex set of colonial, political and economic factors has resulted in an entrenched tolerance of the cannabis plant. Such economic factors, combined with the sustained demand for hashish in Western Europe, mean that cannabis cultivation in the Rif now presents an economic, political, and even ecological challenge, not only for the Rif, but also for Morocco as a whole, and for the international and particularly European community. The UNODC estimated in that, in a regional division of cannabis resin production, 42 per cent of global hashish production 7, tonnes in originated from North Africa, where only Morocco produces hashish. The UNODC also estimated that during the period, Morocco yielded 31 per cent of the hashish produced by 90 countries, before Pakistan 18 per cent , Afghanistan 17 per cent , Lebanon 9 per cent , and India 9 per cent. Hashish is a psychoactive drug made from the resin of the female cannabis plant. It can be obtained through two different processes, depending on techniques employed in various production areas. In Morocco, the resin glands of the cannabis inflorescence, where tetrahydrocannabinol THC , its main psychoactive substance, is concentrated, are collected by sieving after the plant has been harvested and dried. Sieving was also the technique favoured in the Bekaa Valley, in Lebanon, where Red Lebanon hashish was produced in large quantities up until the early s. The other technique, only used in some parts of Asia, is hand rubbing. Much less technical than sieving, it consists of rubbing the flowering cannabis branches back and forth between the palms and fingers until the resin builds up on the hands. Such a process occurs in India, Kashmir included, and Nepal. Sieved hashish is much easier and faster to obtain than hand-rubbed hashish since, according to botanist Robert Connell Clarke in his book Hashish! Such a difference not only makes sieving much more suitable for commercial-scale production but it also makes it more potent since almost no resin is left on the plant. In fact, Western influence not only spurred cannabis cultivation in Morocco, through colonialism, it also initiated hashish production in the country at the onset of the hippie culture in the s. However, historians seem to agree that cannabis cultivation only started around Ketama, in the mountainous Berber-inhabited Rif area north of Fez, in the 15th century. Much later, in the 19th century, Sultan Moulay Hassan Hassan I officially authorised cannabis cultivation for local consumption in five douars, or villages, of the Ketama and Beni Khaled tribes, in the Senhaja area of the Rif. In the kingdom was split into two protectorates by Spain and France, and the right to cultivate cannabis was again granted to a few tribes, this time by Spain. In , Abdelkrim el-Khattabi unified the Berber tribes of the Rif in their resistance to Spanish authority and set up the independent Republic of the Rif , before being defeated by a French-Spanish coalition. That zone was gradually reduced until, in theory, it was abolished in , although in fact, production continued at a high level, particularly during the last few years of the protectorate. Far from being solved the problem has only worsened. Since France was a signatory to the Geneva International Convention on Narcotics Control, organised by the League of Nations, cannabis cultivation was progressively prohibited in the French protectorate. Only in was cultivation completely prohibited in the French protectorate. In , when Morocco gained independence, cannabis prohibition was extended to the former French and Spanish zones. However, Mohammed V decided to condone cannabis cultivation in the five historical douars of the Ketama and Beni Khaled after the prohibition led to conflict in the Rif. The Rif is one of the Berber areas of Morocco, and Berbers, as shown by the episode, have resisted foreign rule whenever possible Arab rule included. As the anthropologist Clifford Geertz explains in his study The Integrative Revolution, the establishment of the Arabised, Islamic reformist Cherifian dynasty at the end of the 17th century and, later, the colonial rule of Morocco, reinforced the distinction between bled as-siba and bled al-makhzen. The French colonial power increased this distinction after the decade during which the proconsul Lyautey kept the tribes in check and reinforced the Makhzen bureaucracy, only to be defeated by the tribal uprising led by Abdelkrim al-Khattabi. Starting in , Berber chiefs, such as the Interior Minister of Mohammed V and the governor of the province of Tafilalet, promoted a kind of tribal primordialism and neo-traditionalism aimed against the Istiqlal nationalist party, the administrative arm of the throne that had reinstated the Islamic judicial system. Loyalty to the king, however, was never challenged. Sporadic Berber uprisings occurred, particularly in the Rif from to In the region rose in rebellion against the government and the uprising was put down by a military expedition composed of two-thirds of the Moroccan army, which, under the command of then-Crown Prince Hassan, even resorted to napalm bombardments. These uprisings were partly caused by economic deprivation, since Moroccan Berbers make up the majority of the poorest classes in Morocco, and since Berber regions have not seen the same development aid as Arabised coastal and urban regions. Moreover, cultural frustration relating to the status and teaching of the Berber language added to economic grievances. Cannabis cultivation in the Rif is intrinsically tied up with this long, complex and violent history of rivalries, tolerance, and conflict, and is thus well entrenched in the region, both politically and economically. The right to cultivate cannabis in the Rif was first granted to five douars by Sultan Moulay Hassan. Cultivation was further allowed under the Spanish Protectorate, except for the short period during which Abdelkrim al-Khattabi argued against it. Even Mohammed V tolerated cannabis cultivation at the onset of Moroccan independence, for tribal discontent with cannabis prohibition had to be quelled. People from the region of Ketama now either assert that Mohammed V orally allowed them to cultivate cannabis around the village of Azilal, or that a dahir gives them the official right to do so. However, as stressed by the Moroccan economist and sociologist Kenza Afsahi, the aforementioned dahir clearly does not allow such a thing. Notwithstanding the illegality of cannabis cultivation in the kingdom, its tolerance continued under the reign of Hassan II. Cannabis cultivation in the Rif extended over probably less than 10, hectares in a limited geographical area until the early s, when, as a result of complex economic, and some geopolitical, factors, the area under cultivation expanded rapidly. The economic crisis that unfolded in Morocco in the late s and early s hit especially hard in the Rif Mountains, where the mechanisation of agriculture was never satisfactorily developed and where emigration opportunities proved insufficient to compensate for the lack of employment. At the same time, growing European demand for hashish — that developed during the s and s — turned the Moroccan cannabis economy from producing kif, a mixture of chopped marijuana and tobacco, to producing hashish. In addition, conflicts in Afghanistan, Lebanon and Syria, and increased counter-narcotics efforts in Lebanon and Turkey, affected their respective hashish productions, creating a balloon effect that benefited Moroccan production. While kif was produced and smoked in Morocco at that time, the only hashish available was most likely from Lebanon. It is not certain when and how hashish was first produced in Morocco, although various accounts point to a likely start in the mid s when Westerners tried making sieved hashish around Ketama. According to Dutch and European Union official estimates, cannabis was grown on around 25, hectares in the mid s, on 60, hectares in , and on 75, hectares in During the s and s, cannabis cultivation expanded outside of the traditional growing area of the Senhaja country, into the Ghomara and Jebalas regions and also to the east of the province of Al Hoceima. Since the turn of the century cannabis cultivation has reached unprecedented surface areas and geographical limits, as shown by the estimated , and the , hectares cultivated in and respectively. Both ecologically and economically, cannabis cultivation and its rapid increase in the Rif Mountains are understandable. The Rif is one of the most unsuitable regions for intensive agricultural production: a rugged relief of steep slopes and poor soils, combined with heavy but irregular rainfall compounded by a lack of irrigation infrastructures, make most crops other than cannabis not worth the labour invested. According to the UNODC, rain-fed cannabis cultivation brings seven to eight times more revenues than barley cultivation; 12 to 16 times more when irrigated. Moreover, demographic trends require any agricultural production to be as economically viable as possible: at habitants per square kilometre human density is three times higher in the Rif than in the rest of the country. Increased land pressure combined with a lack of economic development in the region has led to two distinct geographical expansions of cultivation — first, at the expense of forested areas, with thousands of hectares of forest being burned every year to clear new areas for cannabis production; and also in the valley bottoms where better soils and better access to water are available. In , the survey conducted by the UNODC showed that 96, families, or , people, were involved in cannabis cultivation: 66 per cent of the rural households that were surveyed and 6. In terms of surface area, 1. During the last decade cannabis cultivation has spread in and outside of the Rif, the economic appeal of a cash crop proving increasingly detrimental to forest preservation as well as to other agricultural activities. Cannabis monoculture has developed considerably, to the point of becoming a subject of ecological concern. The extensive use of fertilisers causes soil pollution, insufficient or inexistent fallow periods cause soil depletion, and deforestation, increasingly perpetrated to accommodate new cannabis fields, increases soil erosion. In the absence of a strong political will to address the economic and demographic issues of the Rif area, cannabis cultivation will soon prove to be unable to make up for the lack of development the region has long suffered. Box: Estimating Cannabis yields In , about tonnes of cannabis resin were seized in Western Europe and 66 tonnes in Morocco. South and Central Asia only accounted for 9 per cent and 5 per cent of the global output. Actually, estimating cannabis crops has always proved extremely difficult. With its survey on Morocco the UNODC produced the first serious estimate of cannabis cultivation and hashish production in any given country. But this survey now raises questions regarding global estimates of cannabis cultivation and the share taken by Morocco in the global output. Here the difference is important because the cultivation and production techniques employed across the world depend on which final product is sought: marijuana or hashish. Pierre-Arnaud Chouvy holds a Ph. The debate about decriminalizing that industry has been bubbling away in parliament for a while, with a member of the opposition saying in August that his party hopes to legalize cannabis production within the next three years. Hashish production The UNODC estimated in that, in a regional division of cannabis resin production, 42 per cent of global hashish production 7, tonnes in originated from North Africa, where only Morocco produces hashish. Historical cultivation in the Rif The Rif is one of the Berber areas of Morocco, and Berbers, as shown by the episode, have resisted foreign rule whenever possible Arab rule included. Ongoing growth Cannabis cultivation in the Rif extended over probably less than 10, hectares in a limited geographical area until the early s, when, as a result of complex economic, and some geopolitical, factors, the area under cultivation expanded rapidly. View all posts. Read more. Publication list Photography Categories About. We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. If you continue to use this site we will assume that you are happy with it.

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Kenitra buying hash

Here To Travel is now Giveback. Find out more. Matt Morelli. Tales of being hounded through medinas by relentless faux guides, feeling intimidated and even being scammed or mugged are plentiful. Avoiding Morocco however would be a terrible mistake. Anything new can seem scary, but with a bit of knowledge and context, worries start to evaporate. Navigating Morocco using taxis and public transport does require some research prior to arriving. For starters, there are two different types of taxi. They can be hailed at the kerb or hired at designated ranks normally very clearly signposted. By law, they have to use it , but not everything is so straightforward in Morocco. Average fares for us were in the region of MAD with a maximum cost of 40MAD for a nighttime journey where our host phoned a taxi for us. We think this is fair. During our trip to Morocco, a typical exchange with a petit taxi driver started with me stating my desired destination and them acknowledging they knew the way. In our experience, whether or not drivers used their meters varied depending on the location. One additional thing to note is that you might find your driver picks up additional passengers along the way. This was particularly the case in Fes. While Petit Taxis stay within city limits, Grand Taxis travel far and wide and can transport you from city to city at a very reasonable cost. In almost all cases, Grand Taxis start and end their journeys at preset places and have fixed pricing. There are two ways to hire grand taxis — you can hire a whole taxi for yourself or you can share a taxi with other passengers who are going to the same place as you. Sharing a Grand Taxi is the most common method. You can find Grand Taxis queued up at designated Grand Taxi ranks in all towns and cities. Upon arrival at a rank, you will commonly find drivers chatting together on the pavement. In some cases, you might find the taxi rank is well organised and being managed by someone in a fluorescent jacket. While the system might seem slightly intimidating to first timers, in actual fact, it works brilliantly and drivers are generally pretty helpful. Hiring an entire Grand Taxi for yourself is more expensive, but it can bring you extra comfort and some extra flexibility. Your fare will depend on your arrangements with the driver. If however you are able to arrange for your driver to take you to a different destination or a string of destinations plus waiting time, you will almost certainly need to negotiate a fare with the driver. Doing some research before you arrive at the rank can help prevent you from paying too much. One thing to bear in mind is that the bigger the town or city, the more Grand Taxi ranks there will be. Your accommodation host should be able to help you out with this or check on Tripadvisor. As the cost of travel in Petit Taxis is so low, the likelihood of you wanting to use local buses is virtually nil. If you do decide to travel by bus, try initially to get on a service operated by CTM. CTM are run by the Moroccan government and, out of all the competing bus companies, provides the best and quickest service by some margin. Buses are modern, clean, air conditioned and normally run on schedule. The alternative bus companies are just okay. They also stop more frequently en route and only run on a loose schedule. This is particularly the case if you want to travel with CTM. As there is a bit of a gulf between CTM and the rest in terms of quality, seats tend to sell out quickly. For all bus companies except CTM, you can only buy tickets at the departure bus stations. Your ticket does not usually include large pieces of luggage. Costs can range from MAD per item depending on the bus company and whether the baggage handler fancies charging you a bit extra. The luggage payment goes towards the handling of your bags, plus the safe monitoring but not insurance of your bags during stops. Most long distance journeys include a toilet stop. CTM have it built into their timetable, but other companies may just wing it. During one of our journeys, we stopped at a chaotic bus station and were told we had just 7 minutes to use the facilities. During the stop, hawkers piled onto the bus trying to sell us things. It was certainly a memorable part of the journey. The first journey from Meknes to Sale was on board a fairly modern compartment train. A trolley visited a couple of times during the journey serving drinks and snacks. With a top speed of kph mph , our km mile journey was completed in just under an hour. Inside, the practically brand new train was incredibly smart and comfortable. In the centre of the train was a bistro serving drinks, snacks and hot main meals. Prices between first and second class were negligible to us and the upgrade in terms of seat space and comfort was certainly worth it. Second class is perfectly fine, but first class is much nicer. When travelling on Al Boraq with a first class ticket, you can spend time in special lounges at your departure station. Here, you can sit back and enjoy free drinks and snacks though we were restricted to a single drink each at Kenitra station. The currency in Morocco is the dirham. The dirham is pegged to the US dollar, so converting prices is pretty straightforward. For example, to convert to Euros, simply move the decimal point one place to the left e. Morocco is a mostly cash-based society so you should always expect to pay in cash. The common exceptions to this rule is at chain stores and upmarket restaurants in larger towns and cities. It can be somewhat difficult to buy Moroccan dirhams before you arrive in the country. Various banks all over the world now offer this as part of their service and this means you always pay a perfect exchange rate. If your bank imposes fees on foreign withdrawals, the next best option is to exchange cash at the airport. This is commonly commission free and the exchange rates are generally okay. It is against the law in Morocco for unmarried Moroccan couples to sleep together in the same room. This can sometimes impact non-Moroccans with accommodation imposing a blanket ban on unmarried couples sharing rooms at their own discretion. However, it would be prudent for married couples to have a copy of their marriage certificate with them just in case you are asked. We took a photo of our certificate on our mobile phones. In Morocco, there are three networks Orange , Maroc Telecom and Inwi and they all provide a similar service at very similar prices. We arrived at Fes Airport and found a small newsagent in arrivals that sold Orange sim cards. It turns out that we might have been overcharged and that it is possible to get the same data allowance for around half that price. The lady running the shop instinctively installed and set the sims up for us without us having to ask. Failing this, sim cards are sold pretty much everywhere. We saw sims being sold on branded market stalls and even in hole-in-the-wall confectionery kiosks. Before you buy, check the price and ensure the seller can set it up for you setup requires a code being texted to a number and the instructions are usually only in Arabic. During our trip to Morocco, we used Google Maps. On the whole, it served us pretty well and in most cases, even narrow paths in medinas were on the map. That said, using Google Maps in a medina can sometimes be troublesome. The narrow alleyways can occasionally block the signal, causing the app to lose track of your exact location. An alternative app, Maps. ME , is recommended by many travellers to Morocco. Crucially, the app is also able to plot navigation routes without a data signal something Google Maps struggles to do. The app is free and supported by advertising. It can be downloaded on iOS and Android. Generally, temperatures in Summer are hot, sometimes unbearably so. In winter, temperatures can fluctuate dramatically between morning and midday and then after dusk. During our January stay, morning and evening temperatures even in city centres hovered around zero celsius 32F. While rooms may have some form of heating usually an air conditioner , the communal areas and central courtyards where breakfast is usually served are normally not heated. Sitting in the chilly air waiting for your breakfast to arrive can be quite unpleasant. Temperatures in Winter usually pick up quickly and, during our stay, were in the mid-to-high teens by lunchtime in the region of 60F. This wide fluctuation in temperatures poses a bit of a packing challenge , especially if your baggage allowance is tight. One of the highlights of visiting Morocco is the opportunity to stay in riads or dars. They all have a central courtyard inside which is a water feature and they are often lavishly decorated in an unmistakable Moroccan style. The quality of the accommodation and service at Moroccan riads is normally second to none and with rates being considerably lower than you might expect particularly during off-season or in some of the lesser explored towns and cities , we highly recommend you stay in riads during your trip. Most of these points are as a result of riads being retrofitted from family homes to modern guest accommodation. Check listings and reviews to ensure the hot water, heating and wifi are at least adequate before you book. As a result of significant development and restoration works occurring all over Morocco, it is common to find attractions are closed indefinitely. The rule here is to not strictly trust your guide books, as even our edition guide book was already out of date. Google Maps was generally a pretty good source of information in terms of finding out whether an attraction was open to visitors. Morocco is a large country and travel between certain towns and cities can take time and effort. As a result of this conscious effort to avoid burning ourselves out, we decided to cover only the northern portion of the country during our trip. We also made sure that there were other places for us to explore should we decide to return to Morocco sometime in the future. We get it. We were strongly considering booking onto an organised tour ourselves. This is despite never having been on an organised tour before. The main reason we planned our own trip to Morocco was that most of the organised tours we came across covered way too much ground for our liking. It seemed like we would be spending a long periods of time on a bus and less time soaking in the atmosphere and getting close to local life. It turned out that planning our own itinerary was pretty straightforward. Sure, it does take more effort, probably more so than you would if planning a trip to Europe, but the rewards outweigh the negatives. If you have both, we fully recommend arranging your own itinerary. Whilst they are delicious, having the same food every night of your trip can become tiresome. For a wider selection of cuisines and a greater likelihood of seeing veggie and vegan options on the menu, head for the newer parts of town normally referred to as Ville Nouvelle. TripAdvisor is a good place to track down restaurants in Morocco that cater to veggies and vegans. They have a filter specifically for this purpose. There are plenty to choose from all over the country. Head to Viator or GetYourGuide to start going through the options. Morocco is a mostly dry country with alcohol much more difficult to come by than you might normally expect. It is available in larger supermarkets and some hotel bars serve it, particularly if non-moroccan tourists frequent it. It can be useful to learn some very basic Arabic words and phrases just to help you assimilate with the locals. French is a much more useful language to know. In touristy towns and cities, there is a sporadic understanding of English. Generally, comprehension of English increases as the number of tourists increase. Rest assured, your accommodation will likely have western-style sit-down toilets. Outside of your accommodation however, things might not be so rosy. Occasionally, toilet attendants who you will need to tip at least 2 MAD will offer toilet paper to you. One thing I was pretty wary of when researching and planning our trip to Morocco was faux guides. Unfortunately, some go a step too far by using underhand tactics to get money out of tourists. This might draw some derisory comments, but it usually causes faux guides to scarper. An alternative option is to head into a nearby shop and ask the shopkeeper for help. On the whole, regular locals will want to help you. Unfortunately, ignoring offers of assistance is the best way of keeping out of trouble. For most visitors to Morocco, one thing they fear is haggling. Rather than seeing the experience as a potential pitfall, you should try seeing haggling as a social exchange. In general, shop keepers are not trying to rip you off. Your response should be to offer around half of their starting price. The end result of haggling should be that both parties walk away happy from the negotiation. This includes you. If you walk away from haggling unhappy, something in the exchange has gone amiss. Morocco is generally a safe country and most visits are trouble-free. The main threat to tourist safety is from petty criminals and faux guides. Pickpocketing, particularly in busy souqs and squares does happen and you should take reasonable precautions to prevent you from becoming a victim. Keep valuables hidden and tucked away inside bags and keep eyes on your zips. The first thing to do is completely ignore people who address you in the street. Moroccan authorities take a strict stance against drug use and you would be a fool to go anywhere near any illegal narcotics. Airport security is very tight and we were searched and swabbed for drugs as we entered and exited the airport. This is particularly the case in Chefchaouen and especially on the walk up to the Spanish Mosque. In fact, most were friendly and polite. One mistake we made on our trip to Morocco was taking a suitcase. While we would normally favour travelling with a suitcase, we advise taking a backpack with you to Morocco instead. Most international visitors arrive into Morocco via airports in Marrakech, Fez, Casablanca and Tangier. The country is very well served by a variety of low cost airlines from Europe and full service airlines from further afield. Click the button below to find the cheapest fares to Morocco with Skyscanner. Direct Ferries have all the details and will help you find sailings and fares. Tripadvisor is a great place to start your search for accommodation. Morocco is packed full of amazing experiences and excursions. If you have any further questions, please drop us a message in the comments box below. Subscribe to our free newsletter to get:. Updates on the development of Giveback. Newest additions to the projects database. Latest news from the sustainable tourism world. Email confirmation required. Unsubscribe anytime. Check our Privacy Policy for more info. Travel Guides. Transport in Morocco Navigating Morocco using taxis and public transport does require some research prior to arriving. Otherwise, all of our taxi drivers made very reasonable fare offers and opted against using the meter. Petit Taxis in Fez are painted red. Instead, you can use the tram or a grand taxi. Stated fares are normally very reasonable. Pay what you think is reasonable. Meknes — All of our taxi drivers used the meter when we asked. Petit Taxis in Meknes are cream coloured. Safety in Petit Taxis: Petit Taxis in Morocco are generally not fitted with seat belts and driving standards are not particularly great. Drivers will often answer calls on their mobile phones whilst driving too. Just hold on tight and hope your driver is concentrating. Expect your driver to answer their phone during the journey and weave about a lot. If you have difficulty booking online, show up at the bus station at least the day before you intend to travel to book your tickets. Buying train tickets: Tickets can be purchased at the station from ticket offices and vending machines which are in English. Alternatively, you can book in advance from ONCFs excellent website. Sim sellers tend to have them already, but have one with you just in case. Find cheap flights to Morocco. Find hotels in Morocco. Subscribe to our free newsletter to get: Updates on the development of Giveback Newest additions to the projects database Latest news from the sustainable tourism world Email confirmation required.

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